Heading Skyewards

A quick visit and an interesting journey

2012-02-21T22:47:00.000Z

Quite excited to be heading for the plot with a view to imagining how the house would sit, views from the bedroom and living areas we set off from Clackmannanshire early on Saturday morning. The BBC had been warning of snow and blizzard conditions in the north and west highlands so we had contingency plans ready in case we couldn't follow our usual route.
A straightforward drive to Tyndrum with the sky getting progressively darker and more threatening the further west we travelled. The snow gates were open so we headed up to Rannoch Moor and Glen Coe. Skiers' cars in the car park at Glen Coe but most of the snow was well up the mountain. The road was clear all the way through but we did hit some heavy snow showers as we drove through the glen. There were snow ploughs / gritters aplenty, doing a fine job keeping the roads nice and grippy.
Stopped beside Loch Linnhe for breakfast before continuing past Spean Bridge and up over the hill towards Invergarry.
As we climbed the hill out of Invergarry we saw yet another snowplough / gritters convention waiting at the top of the hill. What were they waiting for??? As it turned out it was a big old stormy blizzard that hit just as we headed down to meet the A87. This is where it got interesting - heavy snow falling, driven by gusting winds with little traffic on the road. The Mitzi's 4 wheel drive engaged and we were off at 40mph through the snow feeling perfectly safe. A good test for the car which passed with flying colours. Then we met Mrs Slow in a people carrier trundling along at between 15 and 20 mph. I confess to overtaking - on a straight road in a snow storm - rather than wait behind her. Then we met the snowplough which had stopped to help the occupants of the car that had slid off the bend and hit the barrier ending up facing the on-coming traffic (us) Of course, Mrs Slow rolled up behind us as we were waiting to get going again but was soon lost to sight despite the fact that we were now following the gritter and in a parade of around 5 cars so tyre tracks to follow too.
Toilet stop in Kyle (20p and still worth it) then over the bridge, taking care in the high winds, and onwards to Carbost and Fernilea. Had dinner booked at the hotel so a light lunch was called for. Sligachan Inn - closed; The Old Inn - closed but open at 6pm (Friday and Saturday only!) Village "shop" in Carbost luckily open so a quick snack eaten in distillery carpark with a good view of the loch.
Met up with Mary and Ian at the plot and spent a happy hour wandering around, pacing out walls, courtyards and the garage much to the bewilderment of a future neighbour's small dog. Weather during this hour included snow, hail, small ice pellets, sunshine with plenty of north wind added in to the mix. A photo pf the plot below, Mary just in shot, too cold and wet to take many more, despite the apparent blue sky.

A great view of the bracken on our house plot plus a shot of our future neighbours!

Then back to Ian's house in Carbost where he had very kindly offered up his dining room for us to discuss the house plans in detail. A nice cup of tea and poppy seed muffins too. Very little changes required although we discussed the garage plan for a while. Then the tricky matter of budget with some discussion over what should be submitted to the planners. Decided it should be the larger, and more costly, footprint and we will see what the tender responses looks like.
Mary confirmed that they will submit the planning application by the end of the week. Then it is a maximum of 8 weeks for a decision; then we have to hand over the cash and the land is ours.

As we sat in Ian's dining room, the snow showers became heavier and more frequent and as we drove back towards Broadford, the snow level had dropped considerably. Checked in to the hotel and immediately closed the window which had kindly been left open - it was a little cool outside!
A nice enough room, with no TV - at least no TV that we could find.
Getting ready for dinner, we heard a noisy car arriving - no the island snowplough has found its way down the narrow road and was happily ploughing and gritting. Very impressed.
Dinner was very masterchef and very nice. Early to bed as it had been a long day.
Still snowing gently as we closed the heavy curtains to keep the room nice and warm.

Sunday was a day for exploring and we decided to head for Elgol which is at the end of a 15 mile single track road that ends with "the best view in the UK" It took us almost 2 hours to reach Elgol as we had to keep stopping and getting out of the car to photograph the views. This must be one of the most scenic roads ever. New and exciting views of the Cuillins, the mainland mountains and the small isles at every twist and turn.
Have included a selection for your viewing delight - I can't choose my favourite shot.

Reached Elgol and walked a very short distance along the cliffs where we watched two young lads carry an inflatable up the cliffs from the shore. Back to the car for coffee and more views.
Decided we will return here on a later visit and take the boat trip to Loch Coruisk in the heart of the Cuillins.

Across the bay to Camuscanary

View to Cuillins from Elgol

Sun lighting up the snow on the Cuillin range

Drove back to the hotel with further stops for photos on the way as the light had changed and the cloud levels risen giving a stunning, almost black and white photo of Bla Bheinn which we intend to climb at some point. Sounded possible from the walkhighland website - having seen it in the flesh we will at least make the coire, not sure about the summit. The view from the top is meant to be another stunner.


Bla Bheinn - aiming to get up there when the snow goes

Drove home on the Monday morning through wild, windy and torrential rain - what drought??
A lovely weekend and we enjoyed bed, breakfast, dinner and drinks for less than the cost of two nights B&B. Very good value indeed.

Now just waiting for confirmation that planning application has been submitted and we can get moving on building.

We have a plan!

2012-02-13T19:01:00.000Z

It's not a cunning plan - it's a plan for our new house.
Mary and Ian from Dualchas have delivered against the detailed brief we provided for them and with only one re-draft we are nearly there.
The house has been sited to take advantage of the views to the loch and the Cuillin mountains. Plenty of glass, plenty of space to live in and, if we can afford it, a mezzanine level that will be light, airy and float above the lounge space. Two decent-sized bedrooms with plenty of storage space. In short, everything we asked for on paper. Being this close to agreeing the design means that we should make our planning deadline. : )

We are heading to Skye next weekend so that we can meet Mary and Ian and get into the detail of the house we want built. A very good deal staying at the Eilean Larmain Hotel at Isle Ornsey - two nights for the price of one. (BOGOF) A very good deal and cheaper than most B&Bs, even if we could find any that are open in February. Hoping to get some walking in on the Sunday - hills if the weather plays the game and beach if not.

As an aside, we are gaining minutes of daylight each day - we reckon we are ahead of England now with evenings still light (ish) at 18.00. I can walk home from work without the need for a torch.

Today, we did a circular walk up to Ben Cleuch. Decided to bite the bullet and try the steep slog up a hill known as The Law. My goodness was it steep. Stopped for a coffee at what I thought was the halfway point only to be told that we had gained the stupendous height of 275m! Only another 450m to go then.

It was another hill of t-shirts and fleece to start with then all layers on once we hit the ridge. Stopped for a bite and another coffee in the most sheltered spot we could find. Snow level was around 2,000ft (600m) with a few icy patches but nothing too dodgy. Could be an interesting walk in true winter conditions. Some very steep hillsides to slide down if you put a foot wrong.

Up above the clouds on The Law.. Forth River shining in the background.


Above the steepest section at this point. One fellow walker going up, one going down.

The dog that can just be seen in photo above was a Husky / Shepherd cross with bright blue eyes. She seemed very happy to be out and about in the snow.

Fantastic views and light at the top. We had walked up through the cloud layers into the sun but cloud was swirling and threatening to drop down lower again. We finished the circle by dropping down then back across another summit before heading back to the woods above Alva Glen.

Fell runner count was two today. Appeared on the top with enough breath to have a chat, turned round and were gone again - although we did catch them in one of the photos.

View back down to The Law; fell runners running back down

Great views to the Cairngorms in the far distance and the highlands to the west.

View to the Highlands, dodgy looking cloud in foreground

Back to the car where the GPS told us we had walked just over 6 miles. Legs felt as if it was at least double that! It's been a while since we walked up such steepness over such a distance. Was good to be back out in the hills again.

Weather station news - since installing the weather station and monitoring the weather in our back garden, we have to announce that there has been very little wind and almost no rain. The barometer has been mostly flat and we have not noted much in the way of extremes of temperature. We are hoping for a March storm to bump up the viewing pleasure. Did everyone notice the lack of snow, ice, cold in Scotland last week when the Midlands, North East, etc were freezing. It was mild and dull up here.

May the (gale) force be with you and Celebrating One Hundred and Eighty

2012-01-26T00:06:00.000Z

It's been a busy and fairly uneventful January so far.
A little bit of weather, dull days, rainy days, work and a couple of colds.
We did have a lovely weekend back in Devon where we celebrated One Hundred and Eighty. Made up of a 50th birthday, a 75th birthday and an Emerald anniversary (55 years) Took a flight from Edinburgh to Exeter - very easy journey and an enjoyable family meal on Sunday lunchtime.

We have had some email discussion with Mary over the house plans but don't expect to actually get our hands on anything until the first week in February. At least this is on the horizon now.

The weekend just past promised high winds on both Saturday and Sunday, with excessive wind speeds at summit level. However, the temptation of blue skies, some sun and snowy tops was enough to get me researching a smallish mountain - safe from the snow and ice - reasonably close to home that we could tackle on Sunday when the winds should have eased. Ha.

So Sunday saw us up and out at an early hour for the drive towards Loch Lomond. Plenty of storm damage on the way including flooded roads, trees down and debris but no hazard to travel.

We arrived at the large, free car park at Balmaha, a small village on the eastern shore of Loch Lomond, We were one of only a few cars and one camper van. No breeze in evidence in the car park so shirt and fleece for me plus gaitors with Gary kitted up in full as usual. As always we carried the full back up kit with us, including a variety of cold weather gear. We were only climbing up to just over 1,300 ft but even so.

The path, part of the West Highland way, climbed up through forest with steps kindly provided and was wide, not muddy and impossible to lose. Once onto the open hillside, the path narrowed but still had steps where it got steep. As we approached a stream crossing, we met a Dutch couple who carried a small child each in a carrier on their backs. Both children were wailing quietly and a bit snotty. Made a passing comment about how I wouldn't cry if someone was carrying me and they explained that it was just too windy for the kids and they had turned back.
At this point we decided that perhaps we should prepare for the wind we could now hear shrieking around the ridge although we were not yet feeling the full effect.

Upwards we went and as we hit the ridge we definitely found the wind. It came howling in from the west - straight across the loch, buffeting the mountain. We carried on steeply uphill and met a few fell runners, one of whom slipped, fell, swore and bounced back up and carried on. We were on Conic Hill which is on the Highland Fault Line, so some interesting geological features if you had the inclination. We were concentrating on battling on, even with the wind at our backs, some of the gusts took my legs away. A Scottish person in shorts slithered down the hill, bleeding from a scraped leg and warned us about the tricky and slippy mud ahead. Undeterred we went onwards. Stopped in the shelter of some crags to take a few photos. The views now opened out to Ben Lomond and, further away, the Arrochar Alps. (I have my eye on these for a later and longer day out)

Ben Lomond shines in the sun, as a snow shower threatens

Arrochar Alps looking gorgeous in the sun

Passed the time of day with a couple in running kit who were out training for the west highland way race - yes some fools run the full length of the WHW for fun ! We wished them luck.

Climbed the last bit to the summit and just about managed to stand on the top - by now we were wearing all available clothing and only the tip of my nose was visible. Decided that we would try and find a sheltered spot for lunch on the east side of the hill. Was a bit boggy but we found a nice hollow, probably used by sheep and sat with feet dangling, almost out of the wind. Sat through a light rain shower that was snow just a bit higher up and found ourselves almost in the middle of a rainbow. The shower soon got blown over and we packed up and headed back down to the car.

View back up to Conic Hill. If you look very carefully, you can see people on the ridgeline.

The car park was now almost full although not sure where they all were. The Oak Inn looked nice for a pint and a pie and the menu was reasonable so perhaps people were in there. We did stroll to the loch and took a couple of moody pictures - jostling with the Japanese tourists for the best view. It was at this point that we spotted the boat / yacht that had been apparently blown out of the water and was "bottom up" at the edge of the small boat yard.

A final look to the west across Loch Lomond before we head for home

A very nice day out with great views of the higher hills.

Days like today make you realise that Scotland is a beautiful country with views and vistas that are constantly changing. We are very lucky to be living here within easy reach of such glorious scenery and walking routes.

The Arrochar Alps may be next on the agenda although we have also been considering the Cairngorms as we have never walked up there. Advice is that the Cairngorms are best in the winter as they have a reputation for being boring great lumps of hills and the snow and frost make them more amenable.

Back home to prepare for the week ahead, quietly hoping that Mary might send us the first house plans ahead of schedule.

PS: Forgot to mention the weather station that now sits proudly in the garden recording all manner of weather events. More information to follow plus a link to Gary's website where the information will be broadcast.

The End - of 2011, Ben Cleuch at last and a topographical survey for Christmas

2011-12-31T18:28:00.000Z

This is it then; the end of a year of change, including along the way - shock at having to make myself and a good team of people redundant; excitement at selling the house; finding the perfect plot of land on Skye then finding out we could buy the tenancy of the surrounding land too; two visits to the stunningly beautiful Isle of Harris; enjoying not working for almost six months; two trips to the Lake District; experiencing some extremes of weather; finding a new job (even when everything you read and hear says there are none); setting up my own company; moving to Scotland and above all moving towards achieving our dream of building our own house in a beautiful location.

As the title would have you believe, we finally made it to the summit of Ben Cleuch this week. Tuesday arrived with clear skies and we were off. Good progress to the top of the track where we turned back last week and steeply up to the top of the hill where we had our first view of Ben Cleuch looming above and beyond us. Turning back last week was the right decision; neither of us has realised quite how much further on or up it was. We carried on, sliding over the last remaining patches of icy, hard snow and climbed the last steep bit to reach the summit plateau. What a difference a few hundred feet makes - it was absolutely freezing up there with the wind blowing from the north and the temperature much lower than when we had started out. All layers on, a quick cup of coffee, a couple of photos and we were off back down again. A wonderful view from the top across to the higher hills and mountains, most of them still covered in snow.

View from summit of Ben Cleuch, slippery old snow encountered on ascent in middle distance

We met several fell runners (totally mad) mostly wiry, older gentlemen apparently enjoying the day. Gloves and hats firmly on for us on the return journey. My recent purchase of "Youth's waterproof, thermal gloves, size L" proving their worth and a bargain at only £18. Hands toasty and dry.

Returned home happy that we had climbed the mountain and planning a different route next time - a circular route that is even steeper on the ups but gives a longer ridge walk to the top. However for the next three days, I'm not sure if the local hills even emerged from the cloud cover.

We did venture out to the Trossachs again to climb Ben A'an. This is a small, perfectly shaped mountain about 45 minutes away. We drove past flooded fields and at one point were almost in the loch. Much more rain or snow and this road would become impassable. As we sat in the car park listening to the torrential rain we couldn't decide whether to get out and go or not. A break in the weather and the shelter of the woods for the first part of the walk decided us, gaiters on and we were off. Up steeply through the forest, across the burn, through the boggy bits and eventually out of the trees to a stunning view across Loch Katrine to Ben Venue (remember that one from 5 November ?) and further afield.

Ben Venue looking just as steep as I remembered it!

At this point, the light rain became sleety then wet snow then a full-on snow storm. We carried on as far as the shoulder of the hill then, after talking to others also climbing up, we agreed to continue as the view was promised to be worth it. Despite looking like it would be a scramble to the top, it was just another steep climb. A small child scrambling down told us "it was nice up there" It turned out to be worth every out of breath moment as we reached the top. Views stretched down over Loch Katrine and across to the Southern Highlands. Very snowy in places with Ben Venue looking unrecognisable covered in snow.

Ben Venue across Loch Katrine - memories of a very long day here in November

We dodged the blizzards, watched the light play across the loch and took many, many photos. For such a small hill (1,500ft) there were simply stunning views. No wonder the car park is so big. Ate lunch out of the blizzards, sheltered on the east side of the summit.

View east to Ben Ledi - plans to climb this one sometime soon

Then back to the car and a drive home via The Dukes Pass (later closed due to the snow) a scenic winding road that takes you through Aberfoyle and home.

The next day, we received our copy of the topographical survey for the house plot. Very impressed that Richard managed to get to Skye, carry out the survey and get it all done by 27 December. It will be waiting for Mary on her return. Good news!

And so we find ourselves at the end of an interesting 12 months with plenty learned and plenty to look forward to over the next year.

Happy Hogmany to all

Observations on living north of the border & good news at last

2011-12-18T16:45:00.003Z

First the good news - we have had it confirmed (in writing) that the seller has accepted our revised offer (missives) on the basis of us applying for planning permission. So the missives are concluded and now we have just over five months to submit and hopefully receive detailed planning permission.

We need the topographical survey report before Mary can get going on the design. Have commissioned the man from Glasgow and he is certain that he can do that before Christmas. Seems a bit unfair to hassle him given the weather of late. The next week or so is set fair (by Scottish winter standards) so we hope he will a) be able to drive there - landslips and snow permitting and b) get over the Skye bridge - high winds permitting.

Looks as if January will be busy making key decisions about the house design in order to get the planning permission submitted. Then we wait, hopefully not for too long.

Now for the observations on life almost 10 weeks after moving north.
1: We are in the land of the vertical blinds - rented house included - it seems they are de rigeur!
2: Another favourite is the garden statue, in granite, usually of cute animals or cartoon like people including a bride and groom version - no we are not joining in with this one.
3: Hats - of all shapes and varieties with the key attribute of keeping one's head warm - are the thing. No one goes out without one and the version with ear flaps are the most popular. Gary is searching for a genuine Russian hat complete with fur and a badge.
4: You need a selection of cold weather gear to hand as each day brings a different challenge. Icy rain, snow, gales force winds, ice, more snow. It's amazing the variety required, all of our kit is stashed in the hall at the ready.
5: People generally are very friendly; I have made friends in the post office queue. They are happy to share their knowledge of the area and particularly keen to recommend good places to eat.
6: It does get dark by around 15.30 to 16.00 at the moment depending on cloudy or clear skies but the payback comes in the summer.

We have settled in well and are comfortable in our rented house. We have explored most of the glens in the Ochils and are now venturing further afield.
Last weekend we traveled to Aberfoyle and walked high up into the forest where we had glimpses of the snow on the high mountains through the mist and ate our lunch on a sloping bench in the rain. Lovely! A nice visitor centre here too, situated up a winding road high above the town.

Yesterday we headed to Stirling for a spot of shopping. I was so distracted by the view as we drove in that we climbed up to the castle where we could see for miles. The mountains of the Trossachs and further afield were heavy with snow and lit by the sun. It was like being in the Alps.

The sun was out today, Ben Cleuch was on the agenda. We knew the track to take and hit the snowline after an hour's walking (climbing). At the same time as we hit the snowline, we also hit the wind or to be precise, it hit us like a sledgehammer. The temperature had not risen above freezing all day; add in a 20 - 30 mph wind from the north-west and you might be able to get an idea of the wind-chill factor. Suffice to say that all layers were on but, as I had forgotten my windstopper, we decided to turn it around and find somewhere sheltered for lunch. It was just too cold for me to carry on. We tried climbing a smaller hill for the view but the ground was frozen solid with ice and old snow and while we could go up easily, coming back down in one piece may not have been so easy. Turned back again and sat in the lee of the hill for food and hot drinks.

Thinking it may be time to get some training in the use of crampons and ice axes or we might be restricted as to where we can walk during the winter. Sounds quite exciting learning to self-arrest on an icy slope.

Photos from today's walk

View back across the Forth showing the Clackmannanshire Bridge especially for the Radio Two listeners amongst you!

Snowy hills beyond Edinburgh complete with the ubiquitous windfarm

The snowline from today's walk. Hit the snow at around 1,200 ft.

Back home now with a Ragdale treat in the offing this week. A couple of days to work before the Council closes down for Christmas and we have a few more days off. I have been working for almost eight weeks now with only the weekends off so it will be nice to have a real break.

Fingers crossed that the survey is completed and waiting for Mary when she returns from her cycling jaunt to somewhere hot and sunny (Sri Lanka?)
Keep watching the blog for progress updates and perhaps some house designs in the not too distant future.

And finally, we felt we were letting the side down by not decking out our house with multi-coloured lights, lit up figures and garlands / wreaths so we have compromised and brought out our two fibre optic trees. Not quite up to the standard of the other 11 houses in the close but at least there will be a glimmer of flickering lights of a Christmassy nature in number eight too.

Taking matters into our own hands

2011-11-27T19:43:00.001Z

OK, so despite numerous phone calls it turns out (through a call to the very helpful planning department on Skye) that there has been no submission to renew the Outline Planning Permission for the plot at Fernilea.
Enough is enough and it is decided that we will apply for detailed planning permission ourselves. The conversation with the planners is positive and the plot apparently sits within a settlement development area so any proposals to build a new house will be looked on favourably.
Discussions take place with our solicitor, the estate agent and the vendor's solicitor. All agree that we should progress matters this way. The missives will be changed to reflect this. Confirm that the vendor really does want to sell (not sufficiently to apply for PP to be renewed apparently) and decision made!
We have contacted Mary this weekend so finally the exciting bit - of designing our dream house - is about to start. Just need to sign the contract and get the ball rolling.

Meanwhile, we have been exploring the Ochil Hills close to the house over the last few weekends.

We haven't yet made it to Ben Cleuch (highest point) as it has been either too wet, too cloudy or too windy. There are plenty of other hills, glens, woods and reservoirs to seek out.

We have visited Dollar Glen with its Castle Campbell and steeply wooded paths, carrying on along a temporary and pretty wet footpath to the reservoir at Glen Quey. Managed to stay just below the level of the clouds but the views were non existent.

Castle Campbell from the north side of the Glen. Our route for the day lays behind it at this point.

Last weekend it was a circular walk on decent tracks back of Dumyat which is a great viewpoint close to Stirling. Good views of the Wallace Memorial, the Campsie Fells and back across the River Forth to Edinburgh in the distance. Unfortunately as we approached the ridge to climb to the summit, down came the clag and not long after, down came the rain. Lunch in the shelter of some rocks but once again a swift lunch to be sure that we were down off the plateau well before the light faded. This meant re-tracing some of this morning's walk and adding a few miles but we were back to the car just as daylight started to disappear.

Today we considered Ben Cleuch again but the winds, as forecast, were blowing between 30 and 40mph and that was in our back garden. Casualties of the storm included the bird table and a full recycling bin, both blown over. It is also a little on the cool side today. So decided to try Alva Glen - a good choice with the approach via woods and then a steep-sided gorge. Plenty of warnings about being careful but nothing to stop you striding out on a thin plank of wood suspended over a raging torrent. Alva Glen is a beautiful place with the gorge carved out by the Alva Burn which is roaring its way down to the flood plain of the River Devon today. The path crosses the Burn a few times then takes you curving up the hillside until you are high above the white water and can hear but not see it. There are several, very old, benches to perch on and take in the view back along the glen.

View back along Alva Glen to the flood plain of the River Devon (path on RHS of hill)

We admire the fitness of a young lad and his father who are running up this path then continue at our own pace. As we reach the top they run past us again and decide to go straight up the hill behind us "as it's a nice day!" Consider a descent on a narrow path to the burn which flows through a water-carved tunnel here but decide we have walked far enough and turn back after a few photos of the hills looking lovely in the low autumn light.

View into the Ochils with our two shadows on the far hillside. Very steep!

As we are making our way back by the raging burn, Gary spots eight or nine people IN the water. Helmets and wetsuits, bright red hands and they appear to be enjoying themselves. Assume they are canyoning and are there voluntarily. Exchange smiles and the odd comment then leave them to their fun.
A further 40 minutes walking brings us back to the car and the five minute drive home. A short walk but one that has identified some nice looking routes for future walks.

We have learned: - always take more food than you think you will need; don't under-estimate the steepness of the Ochils, they may only reach 2,000ft but you are starting from sea level; accept that you will be very muddy at the end of the walk; put on gaiters at the beginning of the walk or don't bother; take plenty of extra clothing in a variety of thicknesses; take your walking poles as there will be slippy downs and rocky ups; don't expect a view but have your camera ready as these hills will always surprise you.

Insufficient exercise today to justify wine with dinner tonight so will prepare for the week ahead with a roast dinner and a non-alcoholic cocktail.

If the forecast is to be believed, this week will see temperatures drop and we could see the first real snow of the winter. Could it be time to buy that snow shovel??

There was a little snow on the tops of the hills on Friday but nothing lasting. The locals up here are convinced it's on its way - and because there has been none so far, when it arrives it will be with a vengeance. We shall see.

Settling in and exploring the area around our new home.

2011-11-12T21:56:00.000Z

Three weeks in the new job and getting used to the early get ups. Enjoying the short drive to work (5 minutes), have even walked in once (30 minutes). The bike may be out soon! (anticipated to be 12 minutes)
We have had the benefit of two weekends of absolutely glorious weather so took advantage and got out and about.
There is a reservoir / woodland walk within easy reach of our door. So did that one last Saturday. Good views of the Ochils and reflections in the water.

Then decided to try our first real mountain. Researched and read up on options and went for Ben Venue which is close to Callendar and around 45 minutes drive away. Although less than 2,500ft in height, it is steep and craggy and not a walk in the park. Wary of the reduced light, we were up and off at an early hour on Sunday morning. Drove through the fog which kept clearing and re-forming to give us glimpses of the surrounding hills. Past Loch Vorlich with its early fishermen fishing then parked up in the car park, boots on and we were off.


Ben Vorlich floats above the early morning mists. Looking much higher than 2,500ft.

Warning - for those who might be considering walking in the Scottish hills - beware the bogs. We were ankle deep within 10 minutes and it didn't improve all day. At times it was more like a swamp. I have an irrational fear of disappearing into a bog up to my head - time to meet the fear head on so to speak - and plough on. We tramped our wet feet up ever-steepening slopes and took the direct route up. There were times when I honestly thought we would never see the top but we connected with the main path eventually.

Our reward was the far reaching views, blue skies and a cloud inversion in the valleys. We could see for miles to the west, all of the peaks standing clear against the sky.

Views west beyond Ben Lomond to the hills of Arran. Cloud inversion over the lochs.

However, the climb had taken its toll on us and after a quick lunch in the sun it was time to descend. A good path although very muddy and slippy with the occasional tricky, rocky bit to keep you alert. We followed a trio down the hill that included a lady with a sight impairment - she put us to shame with the speed of her descent and clearly trusted the guidance and instructions of her companions. Inspiring and amazing. Eventually the path dropped into the trees, where we encountered vastly reduced light levels and an easy trek back to the car. A quick change into clean, dry clothes (we are learning and always take a change of clothing now) and a slow drive home due to the large number of people on the hills and cars on the A84. Home to a roast dinner and reward of a nice bottle of vino.

Both of us were shattered and very hungry the next day!

I am now back in work mode and getting to know the people and places. Working reasonable hours, plenty to do but no major pressures (yet)

The house is looking more like home; just the garage to sort out and the final few boxes to unpack. We are back in a routine. The house is warm and comfortable and the oven door has been fixed by a man with a hammer.

Our Scottish is coming on nicely - Gary automatically responded to a casual question with an "Aye" today and I find myself saying "aha" quite a lot. Both mean yes.

Today we walked from Dunblane to Bridge of Allen and back. A nice, if muddy, 6 mile walk alongside the Water of Allen. We like the small town of Bridge of Allen and will return to explore the cafes and shops when we are more respectable in appearance.

Tomorrow an exploration of the Ochil hills is on the cards, weather permitting. (Was told that if I insist on waiting for the weather to permit our walking jaunts, it might never happen) The plan is to walk up one glen, a climb to the highest point then back down through another glen to make a circular walk. If the cloud is on the tops then we will head east to Dollar and walk through the Dollar Glen to another reservior.

Meanwhile we understand that all is progressing well (if slowly) with the purchase of the plot and we wait to hear that planning has been renewed. I believe it is known as "Skye pace"
Gary is now chasing with weekly phone calls.

(Another) week in the Lakes, Progress on the plot and Starting a new job

2011-10-27T20:01:00.001+01:00

Started writing this in the Lakes.
Finished writing this during my first week in the new job.

What a difference living north of the border makes when driving to the Lakes. Up at a reasonable time, pack up, drive for two and a half hours then arrive at holiday home. Very civilised. We have a cosy double room in The Watergarden Suite near Ambleside. Room for the two of us and we have a "spare" bedroom for the overflow of our walking gear.
A nice apartment with views of the Fairfield horseshoe and plenty of slightly complicated gadgets including an oven with a menu of settings, a double shower (two shower heads plus room for two) and lights aplenty.
Wifi also available which is useful.
Saturday was beautiful with sunshine, blue skies and the Fairfield horseshoe calling. So it was completed in just over 6 hours from the door. Just as challenging as memory had it and just as long. Sunday saw us walk from the door via Grasmere and Easedale Tarn to Stickle Tarn in Langdale where we met up with Jacqueline and Ian who had completed a walk in the area. Met at the pub for a well deserved post-walk drink. There was one part of this walk where the path climbed a wet rock face without visible sign that it was in fact a path! It also included large amounts of lakeland bog - knee deep for Gary and too much of it for comfort for me. However all obstacles dealt with eventually and so ended two good walking days.
A rest day was called for on Monday so Jacqueline and I tested the spa treatments at Underscar in Keswick. (Ambleside's branch was fully booked) Relaxed and looking and smelling gorgeous, we returned through high winds and heavy rain to Ambleside.
Tuesday's forecast was for more rain, hail, thunder and snow on the tops. First signs of winter appearing. Quite a temperature drop too. After a quiet morning, we tramped off acrosss Loughrigg - testing new boots - in the pouring rain, hail and gale force winds, exactly as forecast.
Wednesday dawned like a day from a different season - bright, sunny, clear blue skies with a bit of an autumnal nip in the air. Off we went to Coniston where we climbed the Old Man and carried on to Dow Crag where we walked the ridge to complete a circular walk from the car. All of this in hats, gloves and several layers. Bright and blue it might be but it was definitely winter temperatures, completed with a howling wind adding a high wind chill factor. So cool was it that second lunch had to wait until after 2pm when we could find some shelter to sit comfortably in. The late afternoon / early evening light was glorious - shadows, golden bracken and a blue, blue sky. Headed home happy to a promise of frost tonight. Luckily, we have all we need for a curry at home.
Thursday was frosty with a cloud inversion across the valley. Walked up and across Loughrigg taking numerous photos as we went. The light was glorious again and the fells looked on fire with clouds rolling along ridges. A few of the best attached below.

View back to Coniston Old Man

Across to The Langdales - fantastic clouds

Early morning cloud inversion from the apartment to Fairfield (Frost on grass)

A fine walk was complemented by a fine meal at Zefforellis that night. Yes it is a vegetarian restaurant; yes we all had an enjoyable meal. Quality food and atmosphere as always.
We packed up and headed back north; another fine drive of less than three hours door to door.

Return to reality - the boxes were still waiting for us to unpack them!
Some progress from the Scottish solicitor - agreement seems likely on our revised conditional offer for the house plot. All being well, planning permission will be renewed by early 2012 so we should be able to complete the purchase. The croft will take longer but that's to be expected.

So to Tuesday 25th October - a key date as it is when I start to earn a living again.
My first day back in the world of work goes well although it may take my brain a while to start firing on all cylinders. There will be plenty to do over the next two years which should keep me out of mischief. The drive to work was a delight - it took all of five minutes.

Here's to the next two years.

A quick visit to Skye

2011-10-12T18:44:00.000+01:00

To get away from the boxes yet to be unpacked and to revisit the plot of land we hope to buy - just to check it's still there as just as nice as we remember it.
Will also be interesting to time the journey from Alloa and check out the options for future trips.
Journey out was via Callandar and Lochearnhead then on to meet the A85 at Crianlarich then on by the "normal" route through Glen Coe, Fort William and Kyle of Lochalsh. As we drove at a reasonable speed through the Kintail / Shiel range, we were caught and overtaken by a large lorry which appeared to be fully loaded with 10 live fish tanks. The driver had no problems with overtaking on a winding A road at more than 60 mph. I was happy to let him!
Stopped for coffee and a 20p pee at Kyle - finally, loos that merit the entrance charge. Plants, posters, information booklets and clean and sweet smelling. And they have their own poem.
Settled into our lochside B&B for the night in a room with windows a stone's throw from the water's edge. You could hear the tide going in and out - very peaceful. Could also hear the main road through but not so that it interrupted a good night's sleep.
Monday morning dawned with sunshine and showers. We decided to visit the north of the island as we hadn't been up there before. Headed out, parked up and climbed up to the "Old Man of Storr" A 45 minute walk up some steep ground through a stunning natural ampitheatre to these amazing rock formations. Even on a cool October morning it was busy with tourists taking a look. The final 50 metres was a scramble on loose scree and rock. We passed a Japanese couple; he with camera and water bottle, she in Harris tweed coat, red trews and riding boots. She appeared to be absolutely terrified and at one point was physically unable to lift one leg to progress. She did make it to the top of the Old Man but whether (or how) she managed on the descent we can only guess.
Picture shows the Old Man and the sheer cliffs and rock formations behind it.

The Old Man is the rock spire to the right and in front of the cliffs.

There were many Dutch and German tourists walking and climbing around the Old Man. Some poorly equipped for the ground conditions and the scramble and many wanting to know "How far is it to the top?"
We were lucky and avoided the rain for the time we were out and about. Decided we could have spent the whole day up there and will certainly return another time. The views back across Skye, to the mainland and to the Cuillins were amazing. Gary is determined to return with camera gear so watch out for some atmospheric photos in the months to come.
Drove across one of the most remote roads on the island, complete with beautifully tended graveyard half way (no habitation at all) and ended up back in Uig.
Checked out a couple of houses for sale (beautiful lochside location) just in case and found a couple that we would consider if it all goes pear-shaped with the plot.

Tuesday was another variable weather day and we drove through a tremendously heavy shower to get to Fernilea. Vivid rainbows to compensate though. Still like the location, still like the plot. Met up with Mary and her oppo, Ian. He lives locally so could tell us about the area / the people etc.
Once they were kitted out in full waterproof gear, we waded onto the house plot and Ian showed us where the corner stakes setting out the plot boundaries were. No wonder we couldn't find them in the summer - it was difficult even with the bracken dying down. Mary and I were shoulder deep at times.
There is a small burn on the plot along with a number of natural trees which will give some shelter from the winds. The site is down below the road so the house will benefit from low visibility and more shelter. All good so far. If we can get the croftland too there is a small wood, plenty of heather and goodness knows what else in the undergrowth. It will be an interesting adventure finding our way to the loch.
Thankfully, the site is even more lovely than we remembered. Mary was already designing and placing the house. I was imagining the views from the floor to ceiling windows and Gary and Ian were being more practical.
Bottom line - now the house is sold and we have moved into our new home, it is time to get this purchase moving.
Calls to solicitors and vendor imminent. We (with Dualchas) can apply for outline planning permission if that unblocks the impasse, so that is our fallback position.
Photos show the house plot.

View from plot (house) showing loch and trees.

If you look really hard, you can just see one of the boundary stakes (right of centre and in line with river valley across loch)

Back home via the A85 and the A9 - you have to try out the different options but this won't be one we do again in a hurry. Too winding (A85) and too busy / dangerous (A9)

House is looking more like home. Will unpack a few more boxes tomorrow then it's off the the Lakes for a week. Once we return from our final holiday this year I have to start thinking seriously about work!

Driving through rainbows, moving in and house sale completed.

2011-10-09T09:59:00.000+01:00

All went to plan on moving day, van locked and loaded and on the road by 09.30. We cleaned up, handed over the house keys to Kevin and followed at 11.00. A clear run to Cumbria via Shap summit and horizontal wind socks warning of high winds. No kidding. Bad enough in the car, heavens knows what the winds would be like for the van. Passed all of our wordly goods somewhere between Birmingham and Manchester. Everything that defines us - in a single, medium sized, lorry!
A lovely B&B and a good pub meal to end the day.
Woke to stormy weather for the drive to Fishcross. This made for a drive through rainbows as the sun hit the storm clouds. In addition, the spray from other vehicles made for some mobile rainbows - something I had never seen before. Very pretty, almost magical.
No sight of the removals van on the motorways but as we arrived at the house (dead on time) the van and the lettings agents were waiting for us. The heavens opened again just as we arrived and as they opened the tailgate. Paperwork signed, kettle found and on for a brew.
Rain or no rain, the furniture and boxes were being unloaded. Just the two guys to do the unloading - they were both excellent and were happy to move things around, help with reconstructing the furniture and lifted and shifted as required.
Within four hours, with only a short break for lunch, everything was unloaded, van checked (found three small pots and a bucket of cleaning products in the locker) and they were off back to Devon.
So we were in our new temporary home surrounded by boxes and falling over various items every time we decided to move anywhere. Time for some logic and some food. Then to work sorting out the lounge (somewhere to sit) the bedroom (somewhere to sleep) and the kitchen (food and drink)
Some time later, TV set up and settled in for the night. It was as quiet as we hoped it might be. We had no internet or phone - all due to be connected tomorrow. Luckily all the windows have blinds (but no curtains) so we shut out the night and slept the sleep of the really tired.
Friday - the shifting and organising and tidying continued with order gradually being restored. There were many instances of finding something, putting it down / back in a box then losing it for a couple of hours only to re-discover it later. So far, no breakages to report and we know that everything is here somewhere.
Then, late morning came the call we were waiting for - the house sale was complete and the cash was with the solicitors. Well, you never really believe it's going to go to plan until you get that call. If only the bank had played the game and confirmed the redemption figure as promised, we would have had the cash transfer today. However, unusually for First Direct, they were a bit tardy and we missed the bank deadline for transferring the money. Will be first thing on Mondy then - not concerned as the balance is with solicitors and the buyer has coughed up (something that had been in doubt in our minds following the chaos that was the exchange process)
After unloading yet more boxes we went out for a short stroll. The photo below shows the view from the cycle / footpath five minutes walk from the house.

The hills are the Ochils and we will be exploring them from our door over the next few weeks. A beautiful evening with clear skies, sunshine if a little cool. Anticipating phone and internet connections to be completed by the end of today; meanwhile we have mobile internet that works just fine.

Moving on - with a bit of help

2011-10-04T19:24:00.000+01:00

Today was the day that we found out how many boxes all of our possessions would fit into. It took quite a few as it happened.
After a 08.00 start, the Wotton boys (and they were all boys) had our books, clothes, computers, knick-knacks, kitchen equipment and various assorted treasures out of our cupboards / wardrobes and into tidy boxes.
Our (my) clothes fit neatly into 7 boxes, 4 suitcases and a few holdalls. And this was after a pretty severe culling prior to moving. Will have to reassess when we unpack. Luckily the rental house has plenty of wardrobe space and it seems that we will be using most of it. Obviously the shoe collection merited its own boxes.
Furniture followed and the van filled up although it seemed to be a bit tardis-like and always had lots of space available.
The removals firm started off with two lads on the early shift then a hoard of willing helpers turned up at 10.30. Lots of sweat, radio two and no bad language.
Result - by 1pm everything that wasn't tied down or in the "going with us in the car" pile had been packed away.

So we are sitting here now on two lone chairs, watching the TV (no remote, it was packed) eating a last meal, thanks to Tesco, and enjoying a bottle of red - well deserved after that hard work keeping an eye on what was being packed and what wasn't.
Another 08.00 start tomorrow when they return to pick up the last few bits and pieces. Then we can finish the cleaning and follow our stuff up the motorway.

B&B booked for tomorrow night near Penrith so with a fair wind, we should only have a couple of hours of driving on Thursday morning. Probably shouldn't tempt fate and mention winds of any kind - having just watched the forecast for tomorrow I have a feeling that it might be a little on the breezy side. I also think I heard a forecast for snow on the top of Scottish hills at the weekend. That's proper autumn weather!

It feels very odd to be sitting in a virtually empty house which echoes to any sound made. We have had some good times here but it is time to move on. Time to re-invent ourselves and our lifestyle and time to leave the hustle and bustle of cities, motorways and busy, noisy streets behind us.
Whatever the future holds, it will be exciting and we will enjoy it.

Next post will be from north of the border and our temporary home.

And relax .....

2011-09-28T22:03:00.000+01:00

We finally did it!
Contracts exchanged today so it's all go for next week without having to worry about how to sell an empty house from 450 miles away. We would have found a way but this is so much easier.

The deal is done.
Realised that my problem with the last couple of weeks is that I had absolutely no control over what was happening (or not happening) Didn't like that at all.

So to celebrate we have booked a couple of nights in Perelandra, a lochside B&B on Skye - which means that we will get at least one day's walking in as well as meeting up with Mary and hopefully progress the purchase of the plot and the design of the house.

Just the packing to finish off, a few places to visit in Devon to say a fond and final farewell to and it's off to pastures new.

A final note of caution - you have to let an awful lot of people / organisations know that you are moving. A standard email / letter goes a long way to making this less painful but you will have to phone some of them, often through a call centre and repeat the same old security stuff again and again. Tonight, all of that seems worth it.

Looking to sell your house and follow your dream ???

2011-09-26T18:03:00.000+01:00

Some advice based on our recent experience.

1: Never, ever, believe what you are told by a) the purchaser; b) your estate agent; c) solicitors acting for your buyer

2: Your house is not sold until the deposit is in the bank - even then you could be on dodgy ground

3: No matter how flexible you are as a seller - yes we will wait all summer until you are ready to move / yes we can be flexible as far as completion dates go / yes you can visit and measure up etc etc - don't expect any payback (karma) it just doesn't happen.

4: Get used to waiting around for all of those important calls and waiting then waiting some more.

5: Never lose sight of exactly why you are doing this! It is so easy to get lost in the brain maze of who is supposed to be doing what, when.

6: Very early on, make a list of who needs to know you are moving. At least this will give you something to do while you are waiting - see 4 above.

7: Be prepared to prove your identity so many times that you can answer all of the questions in your sleep. (I am sick and tired of proving who I am and that I have the right to live / work in the UK)

8: Remember that you are not your agent's / solicitor's only client. Therefore you will only receive priority attention if you nag them just a bit and chase them relentlessly to do the job you are paying them to do.

Otherwise, all is going well!!

The removals lorry and men are booked, we are dismantling the house around us, B&B booked for the night of 5th October, made arrangements to meet with the chap from the lettings agency to get the keys to our rented house, all non essential stuff either recycled, given to charity or binned, last hair appointment made ( new hairdresser one of the important issues to be resolved) and change of address messages drafted ready to be sent.

On a more positive note - we will be spending a couple of days on Skye to see and stomp around on the plot, meet with Mary at Dualchas and discuss what we could build. (The purchase of the croft and house site is proceeding at Skye pace with a couple of issues remaining outstanding) We also have a week in the Lakes to look forward to in mid-October then a final few days of rest and relaxation before I enter the world of work once again.

It's been an interesting experience and, compared to some, a relatively easy process I suppose. However, I am so pleased that we won't be doing it again for some time.

Exchange finally expected tomorrow with completion due on 7th October - everything crossed.
Very therapeutic writing this.

House hunting, not as simple as it might seem!

2011-09-20T15:55:00.000+01:00

After a straightforward and trouble free journey to Scotland on Friday morning, we were early for our first viewing so I was able to visit the council and prove my ID and sign some documents before we headed into the countryside to start the business of deciding where we would be living for the next two years.
As an aside, probably not the way I would choose to spend my birthday, we were up at 06.15!, but needs must.
So today we viewed four properties, two of which we wrote off pretty quickly, one of which we liked very much and the remaining one would have done for us but there was a dodgy approach lane!
We had booked into a B&B close to Stirling - this turned out to be part of a small estate complete with animals, huge grounds and situated down a very long drive so nice and quiet. A large bedroom and separate bathroom both of which were comfortable and well kitted out. West Plean House is part of "Stay on a Farm" B&Bs and we would choose one of these again based on our experience here.
Gary suggested a supermarket cafe for dinner (I think he was having a laugh) but we ended up eating in Cabes, a lovely shack with excellent food in Stirling.
Slept reasonably well but both brains on overdrive with details of houses. Decided we both liked the first property we saw - a steading in Saline.
Breakfast on Saturday morning could be described as Farmhouse and was really good. Many of our previous B&Bs could learn from this one. Quality food, no limit on juice, coffee, toast etc and a good choice of cooked breakfast if required.
Four more houses to view today - again one written off quite quickly, one no show and two possibilities. Much thinking to do. Both of us agreed that the first and last properties we had viewed were our favourites. Which one to go for?
After much discussion it was the steading from Friday. Decision made.
After another fine breakfast on Sunday morning, the long drive home was waiting for us.
As it turned out, not a bad day to travel. Made it home in under 7 hours including stops. A cloudburst at Bristol slowing us up on the last leg.
Monday morning and most of the day was spent on the phone to various agencies, landlords etc; the steading was ours if we could fill in ten pages worth of forms, prove our IDs, prove I would be working etc etc. Many hours later the forms were sent by email, the deposit was sent by bank transfer and we could cross that one off the list. Oh and at the same time the washing was on so Gary spent his birthday unpacking, washing, drying and generally having fun.
Another decision made - birthdays celebrations would be deferred this year to a date not too far in the future when we could actually take time out to enjoy ourselves.
(as if we haven't been doing just that all summer)
So to bed thinking that at least we had sorted out our accommodation, just the exchange of contracts (due on Tuesday) and the removals firm to confirm.

If only ..... a call this morning from the letting agents to confirm all info received as needed but and it's a big BUT - the property owner had just received an offer from a purchaser who wants to buy the steading. *!$** and many other phrases were uttered when I could manage to speak that is. Oh dear and we had happily told all other property owners and agencies that we were sorted. And then there was the matter of money exchanging hands.
Several quick phone calls later (and a bit of sweet talking from Gary) and we had agreed that we did want to rent our second choice of property. At least it was still available. Liz, the owner was happy to proceed with us as tenants. A very efficient lady called Kate sorted out the details and we filled out all of the forms again. Money to be transferred tomorrow - let's hope the other agency return the cash as quickly as they took it.

So, a quick re-group and we end the day once again looking forward to living in Clackmannanshire. This time within 1.5 miles of my place of work so I can be truly "green" and walk or cycle to work. Must check out the shower facilities first though!

Mentally exhausted, brains stuffed full of stuff whizzing around, signing off for now.
Hopefully no more drama for the next couple of weeks - at least we have booked the Wotton boys to pack for us as well as to move all of our stuff.

The Lakes - side Blog 9.9.11 - 16.9.11

2011-09-19T15:45:00.000+01:00

As promised, the Lakes Blog - not quite as many photos as there might have been due to the rain and the tail end of Hurricane Katia.
And before you wonder if I stayed up all night blogging to get this published - not a chance - I was scribing each day on a word document then copied and pasted.

Diary of a week in the Lake District

Friday / Saturday 9 and 10 September

Arrived in a break between the heavy showers to “check in” to our accommodation for the next week. House very nice but we have had to bring our own towels and pay for the power / gas / logs we use. Previously been spoilt by all inclusive holiday lets.

Hint to holiday property owners – just add £50 to the rental cost; we would never know and you would more than cover your costs and we would all be happy with no fiddling around reading meters and feeling just a little resentful. Also no internet access at the house could be viewed as a good thing by some but we like to have the option to connect. There are plenty of wifi spots in Grasmere if we need them and the phone picks up an intermittent signal so we can access emails and the web on that.

So this week is a week to relax before heading to Scotland to find somewhere to live close to Alloa.

Had a very nice first evening meal testing most of the equipment in the kitchen here – all satisfactory.

A relatively early night and a long and comfortable sleep. The house is down a quiet lane with no street lights, the sound of silence and complete darkness outside. Something most of us just don’t experience any more.

Saturday morning woke to heavy rain but the MWIS forecast this easing to leave drier periods with heavy rain showers. Had planned several options from the door of the cottage depending on the reality when we were ready to leave. A late start but the rain had stopped.

Decided to try a route via Alcock Tarn that would give us a turnback option if the weather came in again. Set off past Dove Cottage (plenty of tourists crowding in and we counted two coaches in the parking area) and up the hill to a point where most of the other walkers carried on with the “Coffin Route” to Rydal. Our route was steeply uphill through woods then onto open hillside. Here the first heavy shower hit us so waterproofs on and carry on upwards. Periods of no rain and sudden views interspersed with the promised heavy showers continued until we reached the tarn in the middle of one of the showers. Watched as a large group of very wet walkers tried (and failed) to find some shelter behind a stone wall for their lunch break.

At this height (approx. 380 metres) the promised buffeting from the wind also made itself known.

Decision made, we could just about see the ridge that we could have aimed for but it would only be wetter, windier and colder up there so we took the route back down to Grasmere. We did manage to find a suitable bench (of the leg swinging type) and a break in the weather for our lunch but the rain was back with a vengeance by the time coffee was poured. Passed several people sheltering in ferns and under trees as we made our way back to the village.

As we were eating lunch we were passed by a small group wearing t-shirts, jeans and carrying golf umbrellas – can’t quite imagine where they thought they were going when they set out.

I also had to pick a small leech, presumably seeking a meal, off my trousers and the forest had a good number of flying ants to contend with.

Back to the cottage where we started the drying off process and thought about a quick trip into Grasmere (walking) but more heavy rain deterred us.

The forecast for tomorrow is more of the same with the winds increasing and a storm for Monday. Looks like low level walking for at least a couple of days. Perhaps some shopping….. and lunches out??

Sunday / Monday 11 & 12 September

Sunday dawned wet and windy so a decision was made to wait out the morning, have a long read and a drawn out breakfast and see how the weather was. Answer – still wet and windy. A quick trip to Ambleside where Gary found and bought his new coat (all research done before we travelled) No let up in the weather so a short walk from the door was decided on and we headed up through the village towards the Easedale Road. Two options – Easedale Tarn or the “Lion and the Lamb” AKA Helm Crag.

We reached the point where the two routes diverged. Neither of us could see any pleasure in climbing over 1,000 ft in driving rain so we headed down the track to Easedale. The path had deteriorated into a small river in places, especially where the new path had been laid. Undeterred we carried on and could hear the roar of Sour Milk Gill from a distance. We had now been out for just over an hour – I was soaked and Gary had given the new coat a good testing. If he had zipped up the pockets we think it would have passed!

Took a quick look at the waterfall then turned it round and headed for home.

The amount of water raging down the hill and into the river was immense; fields, paths all flooded.

We made our way back to the house where it was a marathon drying session for clothes and people. This ritual was to become a bit of a feature of this trip.

Almost as we arrived back at the house, Jacqueline called to say that they (her and Ian) were parked up in the layby at Grasmere so we issued directions and they arrived to spend a couple of nights.

We went out for a very nice meal at the Swan Inn – after making short shrift of the bottle of champagne they had brought with them for a toast to the future. We walked out between showers but got caught in more heavy rain as we reached the pub and on the way back.

Monday brought the delights of the tail end of Hurricane Katia – thanks for the storm force winds -although it did remain dry for much of the day. However only a fool would have ventured higher than 20 ft up a hill so we visited the Bowder Stone in Borrowdale, dodging the large branches blown off trees then drove over to Ullswater where we took a look at Aira Force which was indeed travelling down the hill at some force. No sun to add rainbows but the amount of water, spray and the noise was stunning. Managed a couple of photos including one of Ian and Jacqueline at the top bridge.

Aira Force

Bowder Stone in windy conditions

After a nice afternoon tea at the café it was home for dinner and a cosy night in. A large branch had fallen and blocked the A595 close to Ambleside but the lone policeman was directing traffic around it just fine.

Tuesday 13^th

Although not as windy, the forecast was for winds gusting to 50mph so low level walking once again. Ian and Jacqueline headed for home and we headed for the coffin route to Rydal. This is a relatively low level route from Grasmere to Rydal, We then picked up the Loughrigg terrace path back to Grasmere. There were many people out walking this route and others around the two lakes. More umbrellas in evidence – several blown inside out. We visited the cave at Rydal which was completely flooded although the stepping stones were just about useable. Headed on back to Grasmere dodging the showers as we went. A very nice circular walk but not too challenging.

Having managed to download the mountain weather forecast on my mobile, we decided to go for the Crinkle Crags circuit tomorrow as the showers would be brief and there could even be some sunshine.

Wednesday 14 September

After hearing the heavy rain in the night we looked out of the window in trepidation this morning but the clouds were clearing and the wind had dropped. So it was up and off to the Langdale valley. The Crinkle Crags is a challenging round with very steep ascent and descents and a high point of over 2,700 ft. We have, in the past, badly misjudged the route across the tops and ended up in the wrong valley leaving us to re-ascend to the top to go back down again. Only if the weather looks good then and the clouds are high giving us good visibility. Famous last words.

On arrival at the Old Dungeon Hotel car park we decided to wait for the heavy shower to pass before setting out. Gave helpful directions to a couple of Americans walking the Cumbria Way and looking for the path to Stake Pass. The start of this walk is along an interminable farm road before reaching the valley floor and the start of the uphill bit. Crossed the river on a footbridge – I have only ever seen this river as a trickle with easy route across over boulders scattered in the river bed. Not today – it was like a Himalayan river with snow melt, rushing down to flood the valley and fields. So we started the uphill heave which was not as bad as I remembered it. Perhaps all of those hills around Sidmouth were paying dividends? Rain blew across the valley but we were in brilliant sunshine – result? A vivid rainbow then a second fainter rainbow. A brief photo opportunity then.

Sunshine and showers and rainbows

We were following a watercourse, the outlet from a high tarn. As we progressed upwards, this became very lively indeed. A thought struck me – at some point we would have to cross this raging torrent. Later.

Just as we crested the ridge the rain returned with a vengeance but we were already committed so carried on.

The outlet from the tarn did have stepping stones, about 12” under water plus the water was rushing down the hill. Back downstream where we bravely jumped across from bank to bank. A little soggy under foot but not too bad.

The second part of the climb; not too steep but relentlessly upwards all the same. By this time we were leap frogging with three other groups of walkers. Decided to stop while it was relatively dry and eat lunch number one. Enjoyed in the dry with a view – one of the last we would have!

Carried on upwards until we reached the first Crinkle – a scramble required to make the top then over and down into a gully from where we could see the obstacle known as the “bad step” This is a huge rock face that must be climbed to reach the second top. It had now started to rain again and the wind was howling around the rocks. Luckily we happened to know how to find the bypass path which although steep does not threaten to send you back to the valley very quickly. Off we went and reached the second top.

Hatches were being battened at this point as the rain turned into a downpour – too late for the waterproof trousers so we relied on our lightweight trousers to dry out quickly when the sun returned. Such optimism, no sight of the sun and no let up in the rain until we were back on the farm road at the bottom of the hill.

The last three tops (there are five Crinkles) passed in a blur of rock, cloud cover, water, boggy bits, steep drops and a couple of slips (me). Eventually we reached the three tarns and turned right to head back down. Amazingly, we met several people heading UP the hill in these conditions.

By now we had wet legs (both) wet feet (me) and water was wicking up my sleeves. Decided we could wait until we reached the car for food and drink, thankful for number one lunch giving us the energy boost needed.

So eventually back to the car, six hours after we had left it. Our leap frogging friends also made it back around the same time as us. Coffee and food in the car in clean dry clothes that were waiting for us.

Feet tired this evening and a few muscle grumbles but tomorrow is forecast to be the best day of the week so we are heading for Hellvelyn from Thirlmere. There might even be some photos but I’ll wait to see it with my own eyes rather than believe the forecast.

Thursday 15 September

Raining again as we turned in for the night but this morning it was another world – blue skies, a slight breath of wind and brilliant sunshine – and a little cool.

Early breakfast and we were packed and off. Drove to the layby where you DON’T have to pay £6.50 to park for the day, found a space – there were plenty to choose from that early – and set off. We had decided to add some miles by heading east before going up. We know that this side of Helvellyn was very very steep so were mentally prepared for the challenge to come. Unfortunately the path we had seen on the map and plotted on the GPS, despite being a large line on the map didn’t exist in reality so we walked rather further than planned and headed up and up and up Sticks Pass.


Looking back down the path with Skiddaw in the background

This eventually took us up to the meeting point of many paths on the broad ridge approaching the Helvellyn range. Helvellyn could be seen in the distance looking high and brooding. There was a magnificent view of Striding Edge complete with ant like figures walking the ridge.

Striding Edge in the distance with Swirral Edge closer to the camera. Both quite challenging and both with queues of people today.

After climbing Helvellyn Little Man (a misnomer as this was far steeper than anything else so far) we continued along the relatively flat edge of Helvellyn itself and to the trig point. Many other people had decided to climb the mountain today so it was a bit like a convention on the summit.

Swirral Edge from our summit lunch spot. The coloured dots are people climbing up.

We had lunch with our feet dangling over the steep drop to Red Tarn, enjoyed the sun and then took the direct route back to the car. The knees were feeling it by the time we hit the bottom of the path.

All in all, a glorious end to our week in the Lakes.
Oh and when we read the meters we owed a grand total of £12.66 for the week. Not bad for all of that drying out. £50 on the rental would have had it covered easily.

Packed and ready for an early start tomorrow as we head north to find somewhere to live.

Playing the waiting game .....

2011-09-06T21:44:00.002+01:00

Waiting

1: For the moment when we actually exchange contracts on the house in Devon - everything is in order with our paperwork signed and at the solicitors; the buyers paperwork is in the post; cash transfer being arranged. (Completion is already agreed as 14th October)

2: To head to the Lakes for some walking, good food and drink and hopefully some good weather - well we can hope on the last one. (Pics and blog to follow)

3: To find out where we are actually going to live when we move to Scotland. Short list is now running at 7 or 8 houses with viewings arranged over the 16th / 17th September.

4: To hear that the sale of the croft and house site to be finalised. Our Scottish solicitor is chasing the very slow formal written response from the vendor.

5: To go back to Skye and meet up with Mary so that we can start the design process. So far all that we have is an option for drains - a very good start but we do need more! Planning to do that during w/c 10 October - after we have moved house and before we head to the lakes for a second week with Jacqueline and Ian and before I start my new job. Simples!

In the meantime we enjoyed my niece Charlotte's wedding to Richard last Friday. A day of blue skies, a beautiful bride, friends and family, good food all in a lovely setting at the China Fleet Club in Saltash. Marie played the perfect mother of the bride and John gave a wonderful speech.
We all looked fantastic and scrubbed up well.


Charlotte & Richard 2.9.11

Proud mother and daughter

Have spent the last couple of weeks throwing out the rubbish from every conceivable corner of the house; packing up the stuff we don't use every day; dismantling shelves etc and enjoying the odd walking day. Good walks from Beer to Branscombe including the 99 steps and also a Sidmouth circuit where we tested our vastly improved lungs by going steeply up through the woods then doing Soldiers Hill on the same walk.

So, things are looking good at the moment - what a difference a year makes!
It was this time last year that the rumblings about project cancellation and redundancies started.
I could never have imagined how things would work out - every cloud and all that.

Look out for some gorgeous photos and the walking diaries from the Lakes next week - weather permitting.

Definitely heading north of the border ...

2011-08-25T21:15:00.001+01:00

A big step in the right direction this week.
I will be working in Alloa so we will be looking to live somewhere in "Central West Scotland" for a couple of years which will see us through the build on Skye and have us living much closer to Skye itself. Handy for those trips to see progress, make decisions and mull over where and how we are going to use the croft.

Now the only thing we have to do is find an actual house to live in; must be somewhere nice and quiet with good views and close to hills / mountains. Not too much to ask surely. Had a quick look around while up there for interview and think we should be able to meet these criteria.
Alloa is the north point of a triangle formed by using Glasgow and Edinburgh as the west and east points. Just across the Forth river, it is in the smallest county in Scotland, Clackmannanshire.
Travelled by Easyjet from Bristol for the interview - plane delayed so arrived in Scotland in the dark, on unfamiliar roads in an unfamiliar car which made for an interesting drive to the hotel - which had stayed open especially for my arrival. I finally arrived at 23.00 hrs and they were very professional and gracious about the whole thing. I'm not sure the alternative option of a night in a Peugeot 107 would have left me quite so chilled the morning of the interview! (It's the size of a smart car but with the addition of two very small back seats)
We already have a short-list of properties to look at and it only runs to 15 at the moment. Sounds vaguely familiar to a couple of months back when we were looking for plots to buy.
The completion of this house sale will be end of September / beginning of October so we have 6 weeks to sort it all out! Are we worried? No, just another part of the great Scottish adventure.

Plans for the next few weeks then:
1: Pack up the house
2: Find somewhere else to live
3: Charlotte and Richard's wedding
4: See as many people as possible before we pack our bags and are off.
5: Settle into new rented house then a week's holiday in the Lakes.
6: Start new job.

We are eagerly waiting the contract from Dualchas so that we can sign up "officially" and start to design the house for real. Drainage and topographical surveys all quoted for and approved by us. Ready for the off!

Wet Wales, walking in the rain and home to positive developments.

2011-08-14T16:28:00.000+01:00

Friday and Saturday continued in the same wet theme with more heavy rain.
Were we deterred? No. Did we have Gortex? Yes. Did we get wet? Oh yes.
So on Friday we (Ian and Jacqueline plus us) walked from Beddgelert (of the dog and grave story) along the fast flowing river using what looked deceptively like an easy path to start with. We had done this before so were prepared for the deterioration into a slippery, tricky path that was pretty close to the white water at some points. People coming in the other direction had not researched so thoroughly and were slipping and sliding and falling towards us. Took a few photos before the rain started in earnest. In some of them the river just looks like white water.
We stopped at the car park shelter for a coffee break then decided to carry on up the track to the top of the pass then down to the lake for the walk back to the car. Unsurprisingly there was no view but we did see the steam train heading towards Porthmadog and waved to the people on it.
After hot showers and a good drying out of kit, Ian barbecued dinner for us.
Discussions for Saturday's entertainment were considered and it was agreed that we would go up the PYG track on Snowdon and return by the Miners Track - thus avoiding the zig zags and the summit, both of which would be heaving on a Saturday in August. A good walk nevertheless.
Ian decided not to walk on Saturday morning so he delivered us to the car park at Pen-Y-Pass (and saved us paying £10 to park - really) I hardly need to say this, but it was raining as we set off. There were many, many people attempting Snowdon on this Saturday and quite a few of them were using the PYG track so we shared it with them. There was also a fine assortment of kit on display ranging from shorts and tee-shirts completed with trainers to full on waterproof gear. Many children were walking up the mountain and none of them were moaning at the weather or the walk. We put our heads down and went up. At some of the steeper points of the track there were queues of walkers. Started to meet people coming down from the top as well. We could see our return track far below us but had to walk a fair bit further before we could turn down. No chance (or appetite) for a coffee stop as it was a) too busy and b) too wet and c) too windy. The Miners Track at this point used to be a rocky, slippy, scree type climb but those nice people at Snowdonia National Park have done some repairs and improvements so it is now much safer although still tricky in places.
We found the best shelter we could at the bottom of this section and had our lunch. At this point it actually stopped pouring down so we could at least eat our lunch in the dry. Both Gary and I were wet through (new coats may be required) so coats off and warmer kit on. Jacqueline remained dry which was pretty good in that weather. Carried on back to the car park where the bus for Llanberis was waiting so we took it and walked to the pub where we waited for Ian to pick us up again. After another marathon drying off / showering session we were once again treated to a fine dining experience courtesy of Ian.
An early start this morning saw us leave the mountains in the rain but empty roads allowed us to make good time to the bacon butty stop near Shrewsbury. Enjoyed at one of the outside tables because we could sit out and not get wet!

Arrived home to a message asking if our purchaser's surveyor can visit the house on Wednesday which is a positive move. We have been very patient but it really is time to get this sale going now. And, the isle of Skye Estate Agency's website finally shows "our" plot as under offer. A perfect end to a very enjoyable week.

Dartmoor classic, lost and noisy children & a trip to Wales

2011-08-11T21:36:00.001+01:00

The weather on Tuesday was set fair so we decided to head for Cranmere Pool - third attempt at this one. We set off from Belstone and used the western track to get to the ridge. Headed off to pick up the military loop road which took us further, faster. It was decidedly odd to round a corner and see cars parked up. At the top of the road we met up with the army and its cadets - and their lunch van. All happily tucking in to their bag lunch but none to spare for passing walkers.
At this point we had to leave the road and walk on a bearing to the Pool. This was where the going got distinctly wet and boggy. There is no choice but to wend your way across peat hags, through the boggy bits and try to avoid the wobbly ground.
Cranmere Pool sits in a boggy hollow and is not visible until you arrive so you have to trust the bearing you are walking on. About half way there, we were passed by a chap wearing shorts and carrying only a compass moving at some speed. Once he was behind us, he started to shout loudly - we assumed he was looking for his dog or something. On we trudged and thought we could see the "pool" ahead when a second person approached us. This turned out to be a young (11 or 12 year old) boy who was clearly distressed. "Have you seen my dad?" were his opening words. Suddenly clicked that his dad had passed us and the shouting was him trying to find his son. We shouted across the moor, waved our sticks and suggested that the young lad stayed in one place while his father headed back towards us. Left them getting reunited.
Question - if there are only two of you and you are in the middle of a huge bog, how DO you lose your young son?
We had lunch at the Pool, signed the visitor's book then set out towards Hangingstone Hill over yet more bog then back on decent tracks to Belstone. A 12 mile classic through some tricky and trembly terrain.
On the way back through Taw Marshes we find a good path that avoids Steeperton Gorge and watch two men on quad bikes and their dogs round up a whole valley-load of sheep and corral them onto one hillside. The sheep file up the hill very neatly one by one.
As we arrived back at the village, we just happened to do so at the same time as three mini-bus loads of children who had been on various "activities" on the moor that day. They were being rounded up ready to return to their camp. They were very busy discussing the best bits of their day very loudly. Sat and enjoyed our flask of chilled OJ despite the company!
Arrived home tired but happy.
On Wednesday we set off for North Wales to visit Ian and Jacqueline as threatened.
Today the Welsh summer welcomed us with torrential rain followed by heavy drizzle and low visibility. Decided that we would go and see their house plot in Aber then walk on up to the falls, depending on the weather of course. With a brief interlude for a splendid lunch at the cafe in Aber, we did just that. The walk to the falls, though wet and windy with driving mist, was well worth the effort. I have never seen water thundering off the mountain as it was today. The noise, sheer amount of water and spray had to be heard and seen to be believed. The river could definitely be described as in spate. Stunning waterfall and quite a few people had made the effort. Not sure that umberellas and jeans could be called appropriate clothing though. (For clarification this was not us- we were well wrapped in Gortex,)
No photos as it was too wet for cameras - that didn't stop some people trying but not us.

Oh - and we heard today that we now have an official verbal acceptance of the offer on the plot and the land. Just waiting for the formal written acceptance to arrive with our solicitors.

Should also mention that Gary has been "red-penning" previous posts to ensure my grammar and punctuation is correct. I have had to make a few amendments!!

The missives are being sent out!

2011-08-05T13:56:00.003+01:00

Which means that we are about to make a formal offer for the plot and the croft at 5 Fernilea.
Discussions and negotiations have gone back and forth over the last 10 days and have finally concluded with a draft missive that we have now agreed.
So we have had an offer accepted for the house plot and made a separate offer for the croftland. Both have been discussed informally so now it just the "proper Scottish legal terms" bit.
A proposed completion date of late September for the house site depending on the planning permission being renewed by the seller. The assignation of the croft will take longer as we (or at least our solicitor) will need to involve the Crofters Commission. We will only purchase the croft if the sale of the house site is agreed - just to be sure that we don't end up owning six acres of land with nowhere to live!
The sellers have 14 days to respond to a 7 page letter setting out our conditions of purchase. I'm sure it's not this simple in England. Everything is done through the solicitor and dates are clearly set out so you know very quickly if there is going to be a problem.
Mary is sending us a draft contract for the house design, build project and project management. Assuming we are happy with that, then we may proceed.

Meanwhile we have been continuing the get fit theme with an average weekly mileage of between 25 and 30 miles walking, most of that with full packs.
As part of the on-going theme of achieving the "to do" list we are considering whether we might be sufficiently fit to tackle the coast to coast walk which is 190 miles and takes in the Lake District and parts of Yorkshire, along with a boring bit in the middle. Logistics including washing (clothing) and lunches are taking up a fair bit of thinking at the moment. How do you wear clean, fresh clothes for each day's walking without taking a very large and heavy case of clothes as back up? The research continues. Even more important is the matter of eating lunch each day - who does the sandwiches? Will they be of a suitable quality? What if the pie shop is closed or sold out?
This week we walked on three consecutive days just to see if we could. Answer - yes and we slept well into the bargain. Will need to increase the distance but won't be driving for a couple of hours each day so seems viable.

Highlights of this week's walks included a satisfyingly quick time for the canal walk to Tiverton; a hot and sunny climb through Willsworthy range to Hare Tor on Dartmoor then back along Tavy Cleave where we battled with the "path" that was obliterated by a selection of rocks, heather, bog and hidden holes that trapped you just when you thought it was safe to move! Also saw a collection of lizards, small unidentified snakes and a baby adder basking in the sun - all of the above enjoying the sun amongst the aforementioned heather and rocks. Finally the coast walk from Exmouth to Budleigh and back taking in the delights of Devon Cliffs Holiday Park (heaving with visitors), marines firing on the range adjacent to Devon Cliffs Holiday Park and the glorious view back along the coast to Budleigh which looked like somewhere in the Med. All of this with only a few spots of rain and plenty of sun.

Back to the chores and house tidying / packing for a couple of days then we will be off out again.
Planning to visit Jacqueline and Ian in Wales next week for a few days. Will be visiting the plot they are buying as we have only seen photos so far. Hope we might get in a walk or two while we are there - we have only done a little walking in Snowdonia this year and it would be good to reacquaint ourselves with the Welsh hills.

There will be little to report for a couple of weeks so will sign off for now although I may update from Wales as we get out and about.

An offer we hope they can't refuse

2011-07-25T15:37:00.000+01:00

It appears that we have been cleared as far as the ID verification stage of purchasing a plot and land in Scotland (with thanks to our solicitor in Devon) so we are now at the point where we can make an offer for both the plot and the land.

Have just spoken with Mr McPhee who will shortly be talking to Alison at the IoS estate agency to discuss the market rate for 6 acres and a house site. We will apparently be starting at a lower price than the owner would like to achieve but that's OK with us!

Mary's colleague has visited the site and in her opinion "it's great" so we are just waiting to speak with her to discuss the next steps - assuming we manage to conclude a deal and actually buy it.

This is the link to the plot on the IoS website for those interested to see where we might be living in two years time.

http://www.iosea.co.uk/2080.shtml
The suggestion is that the house is built as far out towards the loch as possible to make the most of the elevation and the views across the loch and eastwards to the Cuillins (plenty of sunrise photos in the offing there in the future). Also the option for our very own "living window" framing the mountains if we can design it in.

Otherwise life is carrying on as normal as we wait for an exchange date for this house sale after which we will be able to better plan our departure and entry to the rental market. Where to live??

Despite the warmer July weather and the appearance, finally, of the summer, we managed to get absolutely soaked last week on a walk on North Dartmoor; too wet to complete the planned walk but we did manage six miles and a bit of exercise. Followed by a good seven and a half miles around Sidmouth yesterday. Hoping to hit Fur Tor in the centre of Dartmoor tomorrow - carrying plenty of water (more than 5 litres between us) to avoid dehydration.

Hope to have further news this week - watch this space.

Of Solicitors and Sales

2011-07-17T14:33:00.000+01:00

What a week!

So, we have an offer for our house which we have negotiated on and agreed to meet in the middle. House sold (stc as they say) Likely to be completing in September.
We have decided on 5 Fernilea as the plot for us - with the extra land; price yet to be agreed
Have found a Scottish solicitor willing to represent us in the purchase of the land and plot
Have appointed a local solicitor to deal with the sale of the house in Devon
Have asked Mary from Dualchas to visit the plot and consider:
1: The house potential and design options, given the plot orientation
2: The water situation - either a connection via Scottish Water or a borehole
3: Is it feasible to remove the bushes to confirm the view is as it should be? (She is taking a colleague and strimmer with her)
4: Access and boundaries to the plot
This is all planned for next week although we will have to check on progress.

Next steps - go through the money laundering procedures with both sets of solicitors; make a conditional offer for the plot and land - this follows our expression of interest but is not a formal offer to buy - then let the negotiations commence; really start the design process in earnest; find somewhere to live for the next 12 - 18 months; agree a price for the plot and apply for detailed planning permission; start the build.
Sounds easy doesn't it?

All of the above to be done from a distance of over 600 miles, thank heavens for email, mobile communications and the internet.

Gary has downloaded CAD software so we are spending a happy afternoon designing for real!
If we can work out exactly how to use it!

A return to Devon and time for a good old think

2011-07-10T22:21:00.000+01:00

Two days of travelling back through the highlands and today, the joys of the M6 and the M5 again. We were lucky on both days and didn't experience any delays or hold-ups.
In case you're travelling in the north - the travelling community (AKA p...ys) are also on the move swinging their caravans and dodgy vans all over the place.
We stopped and swapped the driving every two hours; had lunch in a glorious position overlooking Glen Coe - away from the crowds in "the" layby.
Arrived at the travel lodge in time to purchase a reasonable dinner from M&S which was eaten in the splendour of a travel lodge bedroom. Should probably mention at this point that we almost had to go round again as I completely missed the turn for the travel lodge and had to carry out some dodgy maneuvers to get there. That would have been a fun trip down the M6 then back again! Was right about the wifi connection - yes it was available but £5 for 1 hour. Even the dodgiest B&B had wifi available at no cost. Hotels are going to have to improve on this in the future; it's outrageous practice to charge for one hour what it would cost for two weeks on average at home or in business.

Sleeping in a service station is surprisingly quiet and I got the hairdryer on arrival. All pillows were allocated though with none extra to spare. Also had the best sized towels of the trip - best not to mention the quality though.

Decided to avoid the hot food on offer on site and stopped at Tebay for a really good, quality breakfast this morning. Local farm-sourced food, good service and a nice environment.
One more stop en route and we drove on home.

To summarise the last two weeks

We have driven 2,124 miles; visited 17 potential house sites; shortlisted four sites - all of which would be perfectly suitable to build on; made some good contacts on Skye; stayed in some delightful and some dodgy B&Bs; enjoyed a week at Fisherman's Lodge and have made the decision that we will be building and living on Skye.

Message from the estate agents on Skye - the owners of the plot at Fernilea will consider selling half of the croft that surrounds the plot we enquired about. There is already a house site available and this would give us extra land that runs down to the loch. All we have to do is let the vendor's solicitor know what we would offer for the plot and croftland. OK then; quite a bit of thinking to do tomorrow!

We return to find out there is the possibility of an offer on the house - will find out more tomorrow. If so, then we really will be doing some serious planning over the next few weeks!
We will be speaking to a Scottish solicitor tomorrow; need to understand crofting law, tenancy implications and expressions of interest.

Will update as and when things happen over the next few weeks.

The final shortlist and time to pack up (for now)

2011-07-08T21:42:00.000+01:00

An earlyish start to make sure we get to Fiskavaig in good time for out 1100 appointment with Kenny. We spot the other plot on the way but decide to take a look after we have seen no 20.
Kenny is dead on time and shows us the easy way to reach the plot although we still have to scramble over knee length grass and boggy ground.
Oh; the plot we thought was for sale is in fact sold and the one we should have been looking at adjoins it. This is higher up the hill which is good but closer to the hillock which is not so good as it gets in the way of some of the view. The buyer of the first plot has agreed to put in the access road which is started but seems abandoned. There are more questions than answers after looking at this one (cue a song) We thank Kenny for his time.
We head back via Portnalong which sounds as if it should have a port and it does but nothing else to write home about. Stop at the last plot and over the ditch and into the thigh high ferns and ankle snagging heather. There is no noticeable stake anywhere in the ground so it is difficult to sketch out the plot from the plan. We think we have it. The position of this one is good with the Cuillins on the horizon and Loch Harport below. However there is the small matter of a clump of bushes and small trees that would get in the way of the view - if they were flattened and say, used as fuel, problem solved. We don't really know if they are within the plot's boundaries or on the croftland surrounding it. Decide to ask the agent; also decide to ask if the vendor would sell the whole croft which runs right down to the lochside. Well we can ask!
Off to the Sligachan Inn for lunch which turns out to be larger than anticipated. There are great views today, the sun is out and the temperature is approaching 20 degrees. A fine day to finish our holiday / search for a plot of land.
Sounds today are Rod Stewart, Status Quo and Springstein - a bit retro perhaps but good tunes and the opportunity for some air guitar.
A final visit to the Co-op in Broadford and we head off to take a look at Camus Cross and Isle Ornsay. Camus Cross is a lovely bay with views across to the mainland; some nice properties close to the water and we spy a couple of Mary's designs. Isle Ornsay appears to consist of a hotel and a gallery and not very much parking. Having just eaten and not needing any art, we turn it round and head for home.
A thorough review of the plots we have seen leads to the final, final shortlist of four. The 3 acre plot in Bornesketaig; the plot at Skinidin; and the two we have seen today. Will speak with Mary early next week and ask her to look at them for us. In the meantime, we need to find a solicitor. this feels as if it is really going to happen.
Later this afternoon we both take a walk around the bay and also walk around to see the house the couple next door have bought; this sale has been made on the condition that the existing house is demolished and they will rebuild. We think we find it and it is a decent sized plot but there is a ton of work to do. Wise words from Mary who said that buying a wreck of a house is just buying an expensive plot. Still we wish them well; particularly as they will be building most of it themselves (well David will)
We can hear a seal this evening but can't see it. Saw a pair of herons at Camus Cross. Rumour has it that there is a basking shark around the bay but no sign that I can see and these beasts are meant to be huge.
On the wildlife front we have done poorly. No eagles, sea otters or puffins. Irritatingly the village notice board lists a whole load of sightings - otters helpfully noted as being spotted "at the otter place"
Evening rain finished, sun and midges back, birds making their usual mad noises and a light dinner enjoyed. A small glass or two of chilled chablis to finish off the week and we will be done. We will miss this place.
Tomorrow this blog will be silent as we will be installed in the travel lodge in Carlisle (South) and I have no intention of paying to connect. Also planning to arrive as late as possible so we only have to sleep and shower there. Note to self, book the hairdryer on arrival - if someone else gets there first my hair will revert to type. Luckily I travel with the straighteners at all times.
So that's it folks for a short while. I will summarise on Sunday, journey permitting.
Will also be updating as we move things along and decide what plot to buy and learn where we will live in the time between selling up (hopefully) and moving into our new home. So keep checking; you never know when things will start to happen.
No photos today although I did take a few with my phone; unfortunately the sun was out and I was unable to see what I was doing. There may also be some unexpected video footage; this will be deleted forthwith as soon as I find out how to do it.
Till Sunday xx

A day of rest, reading and rain

2011-07-07T21:35:00.000+01:00

A late start to the day and Gary is unwell with a cold / flu - just as well we were not planning to go far or visit any plots today.
We sit and listen to the rain, have a late breakfast and read voraciously.
I discover Monty Hall's "Beachcomber Cottage" on the bookshelves in the cottage and just have to read it. The book records six months of living in a croft at Applecross but ventures into Skye and the islands a fair bit. I remember the accompanying BBC programme and can now relate to quite a bit of the geography and scenery descriptions. A good couple of hours enjoyment.
I trawl off along the coast in the afternoon leaving Gary to rest and hopefully recover. As the tide is at its lowest, I find I can walk out to what would usually be islands in the bay. Do quite a bit of exploring of these rocky outcrops; there is no one in the bay apart from me. I walk for some distance along the coast, tripping over large pebbles and with the occasional slip on drying seaweed; enjoying the silence and the seabirds. (spot a heron and the usual oystercatchers and a variety of gulls) The sun peeps out and I take what I think are some good photos (soon to be disappointed when they are uploaded)
The best one is below when the wind dropped and there was almost a reflection.

View from hidden cottage

I discover a small cottage hidden at the back of one of the bays; you would never know it was here unless you were directed to it. It has a gate that leads directly into a small cove and looks straight across at the full Cuillin range. They are spread across the horizon in the just the same format that Mary's window seat looks out at.
Back at the cottage, we spend some time "designing" our perfect house - we will share these ideas with Mary to give her a starting point.
Having finished Monty's book, I have now found "Calum's Road" this tells the tales of the crofter (Calum MacCleod) who got fed up with waiting for the council to build a proper road to his house and settlement so decided to do it himself. This was in addition to crofting, delivering the post and occasional fishing and boat duties. Unsurprisingly it took him almost 20 years to complete the two miles across a hostile and undulating environment. The road and the making of it are now quite famous.
The road is on the island of Rasaay, between Skye and the mainland. Not quite as entertaining as Monty but a good read nonetheless. We have often seen the CalMac ferry going to and fro to Rasaay as we drive north on the island.
A peaceful and restful day is coming to an end and we are fast approaching the end of our two weeks away. Tomorrow is the day we meet the owner of one of the plots at Fiskavaig and we have one final plot to view on the road just out of Colbost; this last one stands above the loch with views out to sea as well as to the Cuillins.
Tomorrow could bring a decision - in principle at least. Then we just have to find a friendly lawyer, conversant in Scottish Law (including the crofting variety); submit a note of our interest / make an offer; ask Mary to view and comment on our choice(s); complete the purchase of the plot; agree the design; speak with the planners / amend or submit our design; apply to various for utility and water connections; tender the building work (through Mary) and finally - sometime in the too distant future - start building. Oh, and selling the house in Devon would help too. Seems to me that we could be actually living in our new house by 2015 if all goes smoothly!!
Still, it will be fun, exciting and worth it I'm sure. No doubt these words will return to haunt me over the next couple of years.

The plots thicken and thin out a little

2011-07-06T21:45:00.000+01:00

Before I get going with today's blog I must share last night's sunset with you. The rain cleared but the clouds still looked threatening then suddenly the moon appeared, the clouds got moody and the sun set in splendour. We headed to the shore where the best views are - this is at 2300 by the way - and it seemed the whole population of Ord had grabbed their camera and headed out to capture the moment. Quite a way to meet the neighbours. Oh, and the midges also came out to play, swarming above everyone's head but once again no bites to report.

Tuesday 4 July, Ord IoS, 2300 hrs

Wednesday
Where to start?
The rain arrived as promised; it has been chucking it down all day. Perfect weather for fooling around in fields full of wet grass, mud and rocks.
Anyway, we set off on our day tour of Skye and ended up in Glendale via Portree and Dunvegan. On the small road to Glendale, we had remembered a plot for sale by an agent based in Inverness - a quick call gave us the OK to pitch up and take a look around the site. This plot has easy access, great views across the loch and already has permission for a Dualchas house. I confess we spent a fair amount of time climbing small knolls, placing the house to take advantage of the views and generally were quite struck with the plot.
On past Glendale and into Milovaig - all five of the plots were in Lower Milovaig. The first was struck off the list because of impeded views and a funny shape! However the location of the second and third was great with sweeping views out to sea from a high vantage point. Both of a similar size, although different in price.
The final two were difficult to locate but we (Gary) eventually managed to orientate the plot map properly and we realise that both plots are away from the sea and one of them will overlook an existing property. Strike both of these. We give another the heave-ho as we try and work out how the required access road would scale the small rockface that apparently made up part of the plot. The agent's details confirmed this with an arrow pointing skywards with the word "plot" attached.
We have one final, new addition, to look at but this is so new to market there is no agent's board yet, although we think we spot the digger working on the access road. Quite expensive this one as it is "almost lochside"
We decide to drive on to Struan where we have a final two plots to look at. It is still raining and as we arrive in Struan, Gary spots a coffee shop so we stop for fuel (coffee and cakes) and an interesting talk with the owner. The shop has been open for six weeks, is doing quite well and also sells books, clothes, crafty things and wool, presumably for weaving. A very interesting place. The owner moved to Skye six years ago and loves it; she also knows the owner of one of the plots in Fiskavaig. You can see Fiskavaig from here; it looks like a small Greek village scattered over the hill above the loch. However there is no blue sea today; steely grey water and low cloud instead. As well as the coffee and cakes, we end up buying two books and her partner in their other shop in Broadford puts the third in the series aside for us to pick up on our way through.
Following her directions, we walk to the final plot for today which sits beside The Old Manse; again a good size plot with much potential.
We have made arrangements to meet with the owner of the elevated plot in Fiskavaig on Friday morning and will re-visit any other plot deserving of a second look. We try hard to draw up a shortlist for Mary to visit as well as a list of questions for owners / agents.
Exhausted, we wind our way home via Broadford (book duly purchased) It is still pouring down as we settle in back at the house. We have plenty to think about this evening. The sound of the rain on the velux windows is quite soothing - I am so glad that we are not in a tent. We did experience a quick power failure earlier, alerted by the house phone beeping in desparation but our only concern of "what about dinner" was never an issue because of the Aga. Plenty of natural light for several hours yet.
Power now restored - and apparently the lift will always work in a downward motion if the power fails; best not forget anything then or you would be stuffed. It's a very odd thing to take the lift to the kitchen in the morning to make the early cup of coffee; there are no internal stairs in the house.
Tomorrow has been declared a day of little driving; some walking in the forest just up the road and a visit to Isle Ornsay to walk to the beach and around its shores; perhaps a trip to Armadale where the ferry arrives from Mallaig.
Sound track today was Leonard Cohen, Robbie Williams and The Who. Yesterday on our way back from Glen Brittle, we listened to most of War of the Worlds. Brilliant.

Cuillins up close and the scarecrow trail

2011-07-05T22:01:00.003+01:00

The weather looks good when we rise so we decide to take advantage and head for Glen Brittle and up into the high mountains. Although we can see the Cuillins from here, it takes ages (almost 90 minutes) to drive to Glen Brittle; a very pretty journey though until we turn off onto the road that leads to the parking spot.
This is a truly remote location, you drive along bleak moorland with no signs of any habitation at all for miles. Eventually the road drops steeply into the beginning of Glen Brittle and there are some forestry commission parking areas and a few cars. Not for us though and we continue on the road - an altercation with a 4x4 driver in a hurry who was NOT going to reverse - he just had to wait for me to do so, very slowly as it happened - he whirled past at speed and without a friendly wave!
Eventually we drive around the final corner and park up with a view out over the sea and the islands. Get the walking boots on and set off - there is only one way and that is up. The guidebook says 1,800 ft but omits to mention the gradient - and we are starting from sea level.
We manage quite a good pace with frequent stops for taking on water and have the paths to ourselves. There were plenty of tents in the campsite (which doesn't share its toilet facilities and has a code lock on the doors) but very few people are out and about. The clouds hovering on the horizon may be one of the reasons. I did spot what I thought was a scarecrow placed on the shore but it moved and proved me wrong. (More of scarecrows later)
We carry on ever upwards and can see our path far ahead of us - it looks even steeper up there. This theory was proved to be right as we left the path junction needed on the return leg and entered the mountain proper. The path winds its way between huge boulders, over many gullies where there would normally be raging torrents and over what would be a particularly nasty river bed, complete with rockfall and slippy stones, in wetter times. We now hit a dilemma - do we go straight up the middle of a rock face, clambering up and over large boulders and chancing the loose stuff; or do we stay left, hug the cliff face and try a bit of scrambling. Should mention that I am flagging slightly at this stage and have slackened my pace completely; Gary still has breath enough to speak!
We go for the left-hand scramble and, although steep and unrelenting, it is a good way over the obstacles. Finally we pull ourselves over the lip of the small lochan and enjoy the view that makes it all worthwhile. We can see South Uist on the horizon, the islands of Rhum, Eigg and another small one and the mainland in the other direction.

Up above us looms the Black Cuillin ridge which runs for over 11 miles, is very jagged, with no escape route and no water source - so carry what you need and be prepared to be scared. .The famous Innaccesible Pinnacle (Inn Pinn) is up above us somewehere
Not for us today (or probably ever) so we find a nice sheltered spot for lunch and the rain arrives. We do get some respite and take some photographic evidence that we were here.
The next trick is to get back down safely - easier said than done when the earth is constantly moving under your feet. At least we have left our jeans at home, unlike the chap that heaves himself into view as we are setting off. At the far right of the cirque is a feature known as the Great Stone Shute - a huge fan of scree that takes the brave walker up through a breach in the cliffs to the ridge, 1,500 ft above. As we prepare to leave, we spot one such walker slipping and sliding down said chute (we can also hear him as hundreds of small stones are disturbed and roll down the almost sheer hillside)

path up/down scree

We decide to go for the rock cleft in descent as I am not good at scrambling downhill. The rain is making the rocks quite slippy now but we make it safely. We meet a party of four plus doberman wearing its own raincoat looking weary on their way up. At the junction of paths, we turn right and follow a relatively gentle path that descends beside a loch then follows a river to the road. There is one final treat in store; a stunning (even in dry weather) waterfall that drops at least 100ft into a crystal clear turquoise pool. I manage to take one photo before the rain returns with a vengeance. Initial rating was 4/10 until we dropped below it and saw the distance it dropped. In winter this would be magnificent and well worth the climb from the road. Regrade it to 6/10 today with potential to make 10/10.

The final mile or so to the car is along the road so no trip hazards just the driving rain. Nice to see the warm, dry car waiting for us - dry clothes too. Final cup of coffee before we head back south. The mountains have disappeared in the clouds and the rain is sweeping across the glen. We are very pleased that we are heading home to an Aga-warmed house with showers, hot food and good wine.
Later, suitably cleaned up and with the washing on; we try and eat out on the deck but finally the midges put in an appearance - there is no wind, the rain has stopped so they hover just over and around our heads. No bites to report just the irritating feeling that they are there and could bite at any moment.

Of scarecrows - there is a scarecrow trail on the Minginish Peninsula (take a look at a map of Skye and you will have the answer to the question - why so many peninsulas?) Every house seems to have made and dressed at least one scarecrow in their own particular style. We have seen old scarecrows on walking frames, scarecrows in saris, life jackets, pirate attire, old sea dogs as well as Elvis and one that was flying in the wind. There are literally hundreds and they are truly brilliant. Every bus shelter has its own scarecrow. We will try and find out the reason and the rationale though I suspect it just happens each year. We saw one in Glen Brittle but otherwise they are located along just one road. I particularly like the disco scarecrow and the climbing scarecrow complete with harness and ropes.

Tomorrow is back to plot hunting in the north west of the island. We should then be able to draw up the true shortlist.

Fiskavaig plots, a visit to Mary and visitors to Ord. PS: It's Skye for us.

2011-07-04T22:54:00.002+01:00

A beautiful clear and still morning with the Cuillins looking close enough to touch and the water so clear you can see the fish in it.

clear water but no fish

After a further chat with our nearest neighbours, who have just bought their own plot of land just up the road where they are going to build their new home, we decide that today is a plot hunting kind of day and head off to the west coast. Look at one plot at Satran, immediately re-named Satan by Gary, but it is not for us as it is at the very end of the loch and for most of the day the view would be of seaweed.
The soundtrack for today's drive is Paranoid by Black Sabbath (1970) would be a bit of head-banging and air guitar if Gary wasn't driving - some good singing along though.
Fiskavaig is another of those villages at the end of a long road. There are bus stops everywhere and we pass the Talisker distillery en-route. The road is stunning with views over Loch Harport in one direction and the mountains in the other. To day the loch is blue and sparkly - a perfect plot searching day.
We drive past the first site, note the second and find the third. This plot is high up with a good view over the bay; however there is a second plot that will only be released once plot 1 has been built on. Hmm, could be a problem later when someone plonks their house directly in front of your view! Place this one in the "to be considered further" pile.
We saw the new access road to number 20 and decide to park up and walk to the house site. The access road is long and climbs steadily - could be some future maintenance costs here - but once you reach the levelled house site, the views and the silence are glorious. We spend quite a bit of time walking the boundary and checking various other bits of the plot. This is quite large (0.8 of an acre) and nothing could impede the view in the future. Decide we quite like this one!
Back to the road and on to number 25, which has four plots for sale. We can't see them for looking although we are convinced that we are in the right place. Gary spies a chap strimming and asks him if he knows where the plots are. He is very friendly and gives us chapter and verse. No wonder we struggled - they are where we thought they might be and marked out by a single post planted in the centre of each. Given that the weeds / grass is thigh high in places, spotting a very small marker post is nigh on impossible. We had written them off as having no view but the chap suggested climbing through the field up to plot no 1 which does indeed boast a view to MaCleods tables (mountains), the loch and its islands and the outer hebrides. Decide we quite like this one too.
It is now well past lunchtime so we retreat to the Old Inn at Colbost for a well deserved lunch.
Head into Portree after lunch to pick up details of a couple more plots and to replenish supplies then head back with a coffe stop in a layby with a view of the Cuillins from a different angle. On the way back to Ord, we spot Mary cycling home from work ( at least 10 miles with lots of ups)
Home, shower, change and drive over the two hills to Mary's house. She and her guest are eating dinner although she doesn't let that stop her showing us around. We are on time and not late for once. The house is truly wonderful, on an elevated site with a picture window that captures the mountains as if they were a living picture. I would just sit there all day and never go out. Otherwise, the house is open, airy and takes advantage of natural light from every angle. We think we can do business with her and she thinks she can work with us. So far, so good. Now we just need a plot.
We head back over the hills for a snack, having eaten well at lunchtime. As we move out to the balcony. Mary and friend Richard arrive in Ord for a spot of evening kayaking. It is pretty cool on the deck, goodness knows what it is like on the water. At the other end of the beach, several children get very wet indeed wading out to a small island then back again. There are also two fisherman fishing in the shallows. We amuse ourselves by watching Mary and Richard kayak, practice capsizing and rolls and sit smugly (and well wrapped) on the deck watching and making sympathetic noises. We had offered wine but unsurprisingly they head back to Toskavaig to get clean and warm up.
Rearrange our plot list, disposing of a couple and realising that we have 7/8 to look at around Glendale later this week. We have agreed with Mary that we will make a very short shortlist and she will take a look at our favoured plots for us.
Tomorrow is another walking day and we plan to head into the high hills. Wednesday's weather is less favourable with rain forecast so we will carry out final plot visits then. Including meeting some of the owners for more detailed discussions.
Still broad daylight, the trouble is your brain / bodyclock doesn't think it is bedtime yet so you keep writing / reading until suddenly it is well past bedtime. It is still as can be outside at the moment with the sounds of silence. Wonderful.
Thanks to Janette for her mystery bird reply - she could be right about the juvenile golden plover.
We have absolutely no mobile phone coverage here and the broadband connection is quite slow so will be picking up emails but not texts or calls; emails do come in but erratic and response may be slow.

PS: At least one decision is made - we will be building on Skye; more leisure activities, more choice of plot and more acreage available. PPS: We will be travelling to the Outer Hebrides often.

A medium effort walk and a super-sized horsefly!

2011-07-03T21:41:00.000+01:00

Last night's sunset photo for your delight. Cuillins in the background.

Sunset first night 2210 hours

Have a quick conversation with our neighbour (from Cambridge) before heading off at a leisurely pace this morning. The chap is about to drive for many miles for the Sunday papers - what is it with men and their need for the papers? As we drive across the moorland road, we see two huge birds circling above the hills, but have no idea what they might be.
To get to the start of the walk just drive to the end of the road and park behind the church - sounds easy doesn't it? You have already heard about the roads here; imagine what the very end of one looks and drives like. This is as far south as it is possible to go on Skye.
The guidebook suggests 5 miles and 4 hours walking so a clue in the time required that this is not going to be on easy tracks. Starts off uphill for half a mile then winds up and down between the hills until we can see the sea. It is somewhere in this maze of paths that a huge horsefly takes a fancy to my arm, draws blood and is given the brush off by Gary. Within minutes I have an arm the size of a small car - OK exaggerating but it did swell up quite a lot. Do we have the anti-histamine pills or bite cream with us - no they are 10 miles away. So suffer but not in silence.
We decide to climb the hill with the cairns, which means walking through someone's garden (with their permission) and scrambling over rocks, stones and boggy grass to get to the start of the climb. We climb to the top and perch on the top of the craggy bit of land for our lunch. The other side of the outcrop falls away very steeply onto rocks below. We are careful to tie everything down / sit on things to avoid losing anything. I have to report sunny, warm weather again and views to Rhum and Eigg that are just wonderful.

Eigg for lunch

On the way back down we stop and chat to the man who lives in the cottage whose garden we are tramping though - Gary admires his generator and he informs us that he is installing a wind turbine and is making / storing electricity from the PV cells he has already installed. He is living completely "off the grid" and will presumable make money from the government's buy-back tariffs. We decide that living at the end of the road and then two and a half miles down a rough track is a bit too remote for us! He seems very happy though.
Back up the track until we reach the turn off for the Point of Sleat. Half a mile it says so we decide it would be a shame not to, seeing as we are so close. We pass a glorious white sandy beach complete with turquoise water with people swimming in it, picnickers on the rocks and plenty of generally summery things going on. The switchback starts again and we go up and up then down into a ravine, over stones thoughtfully placed across the peat bog and end up on the "storm beach" where all kinds of things are washed up. Final up on springy turf (aka the machair) and we see the lighthouse and the end of Skye. The guidebook was correct, the views are stunning and you could play spot that peak for hours. The whole of the west coast and its mountains are available to view. We don't spy any of the marine wildlife described in the guidebook though and it feels like we have walked a lot more than half a mile.
A quick cup of coffee, a sit in the sun and we turn around to retrace our steps. It is at this point that I remember how steep the descents were on the way down; and therefore how steep the ascents will be on the way back. As it turns out, we tramp along quite well and make good time back to the car. Not as good time as the very old landrover that passes us on the track (J reg and looking it)
We decide to take the township road back to the cottage - 10 miles of single track that takes us past Mary's house - we only meet one car and see two others parked up. Go through two settlements before we spot Mary's house. She has suggested that we could walk to hers on Monday night. We clock the distance as just over a mile and a half but also clock the gradient of the two hills involved! We will be driving.
After a fine dinner cooked by the Aga and eaten on the deck, it is time to watch another fine sunset over the water and relax with a glass of something cool.

Six plots, a stunning drive and Fisherman's Loft in Ord

2011-07-02T21:41:00.002+01:00

The breakfast at Cuil Lodge was as good as expected and we ate well and chatted to our hosts. We then return to the Trotternish Peninsula to take another look at three plots - successfully finding no 21 this time. All three have different merits and glorious views - especially today when it is clear, warm and almost sunny. One has the access road built and someone has started on the foundation slabs - must check it has not been sold. We have three more plots to view; one on the road to Dunvegan and two on the Waternish peninsula itself. The first plot is too closed in so it is disregarded. The furtherest plot on the peninsula has been dug out and looks east with unrestricted views out to sea - it is a bit small and the land is steep but it is a very peaceful location; we don't strike it off the list. The final plot is in an area called Lochs and looks west across the sea to some small islands; this is quite nice too! Not doing too well in terms of dismissing at least some of the plots we see.

Decide to drive the west coast route down to Ord; this turns out to be one of the most scenic drives we have ever done, with the Cuillin mountain range in full view with different perspectives at every twist and turn of the road. Weather-wise it is 18 degrees, sunny and calm. At many places on this road we say "must come back and explore here" Also spot some great places for photos later.
We stop off for supplies in Broadford, as Ord seems quite remote looking at the map, so we stock up on essentials like wine and cheese.
We then take the road to the ferry (for Mallaig) and turn off this onto a very small road - instructions say 15 minutes drive even though it is only 4 miles. We time it and you couldn't do it safely in less time so the owners do know what they are talking about.
Arrive in Ord which comprises about 12 properties and follow the twisty directions to the door of the Fisherman's Loft. The clue is in the name and the cottage sits on its own little peninsula with nothing but water all around. It has been tastefully (and expensively) renovated with living space upstairs - accessed via a three person lift. There is a deck which looks over rocks and water. I am writing this sitting on the deck, sipping red wine and it feels as if we are on a island; the tide is in and there is water on three sides. The only sound is of birds and the waves slurping on the shore. The sky is clearing to present us with a pure blue sky, the wind has disappeared and the sun will set (eventually and probably close to midnight) behind the Cuillins. Why would we want to be anywhere else? I have never stayed anywhere like this before.

View from deck

We have an Aga to cook on / with and the first foray proves to be successful with a fine dinner produced and eaten. It does make the kitchen a very hot place at all times but we are just relieved that the food we put in was cooked as we hoped. We have also managed to do all of the washing we have accumulated over the week so will look clean and presentable tomorrow.
Gary has set the camera up on the deck - on auto - so that we will have photos of the ever-changing view taken every 25 minutes; will be interesting to see how they turn out.
Have planned to walk to the end of the Sleat peninsula tomorrow; 8 miles and not too strenuous and of course, the views are stunning, according to several guidebooks. We can see the road to where Mary lives, in fact we watched a motorhome struggle and fail to negotiate the steep bends earlier although he made it on the second attempt.
Have now uploaded photos as promised for Wednesday and Thursday so you can view the pictorial diary, We do need positive ID for the bird we saw on Thursday; have used the RSPB guide to tentatively identify it but..... not 100% sure.
The tide is on the turn, swallows swooping over the water and we have to wear our sunglasses to be able to see anything. Oh, and the sun is still warm! .... and there are no midges (yet)
The visitors' book for this place promises all kinds of wildlife - so far we have only seen common seabirds and the odd rabbit. Keeping an eye open for otters, eagles, dolphins and seals. All available to view from the comfort of your own deck / living space!
A very positive day with no niggles and a sunny, happy ending.
I think we will enjoy our week here.

Beaches, the ferry and a wee dram

2011-07-01T22:44:00.001+01:00

So, today we left Avalon B&B with no regrets (no tears goodbye etc etc (Walker brothers)) after a final breakfast and the handing over of cash. We drove to Horgabost beach where we walked to the end of the beach - pretty though it was, there was no comparison with the waves or the light in April but in compensation we did see the tractor launching the RIB that would take visitors to Taransay - although we didn't see any passengers. We considered walking to the headland but a fence was in the way so we drove to the next beach instead and parked up overlooking one of the most beautiful stretches of white sand possibly in the world, definitely in Europe.
We then approached the headland from the other side, across the beach and into the dunes then uphill but thankfully not for long. (Muscles still remembering yesterday's exertions)
Past the standing stone and up to the cairn where we had the best view yet of Taransay. We hear that it has just been sold - lucky beggars. Had our lunch at this glorious spot.
As always on this island, time runs away and it is time to head back to Tarbert for the ferry. It is a very busy ferry with all lines full of vehicles; we are one of the first to drive on and get handed a small red card on leaving the car - this time we are on the mezzanine deck which means the car will be elevated to a "floating" deck and we will be one of the last to leave.
Up on deck, the wind is blowing and it is cool enough for hats and gloves (today is the 1st July) The passengers are a cosmopolitan mix and we hear American, German, Australian and Scandinavian accents to name but a few. We leave precisely on time and watch Harris and Scalpay fade into the distance.

Scalpay Bridge from ferry

What is certain is that we will return to this beautiful island - possibly in November when Gary may well get his wish for a choppy crossing with "green water hitting the observation deck windows" The crossing today is smooth with not a roll in sight.
When we eventually drive off the ferry, having explained that there isn't a door to the mezzanine level; it is simply an elevated car deck to a confused american couple; we decide to wait for the traffic to ease before we head for the next and last B&B of this trip.
The Cuil Lodge B&B exemplifies everything a B&B should be - a warm welcome including decent coffee and shortbread; a small but beautifully appointed room with a view; no rules; information about the area and a guest lounge. We do still have to order breakfast though and the towels only just make it!
After a quick shower, we walk to the Ferry Inn which is 5 minutes away. A decent dinner followed by an exploration of the whiskies available in the lounge bar. The sound track during dinner included Mud classics, The Detroit Emeralds, The Iseley Brothers and Doctor Hook - obviously put together by someone from our own era.
Gary tries the Tobermory whisky. which leads to many Wombles songs and quotations and I try and like a Macallan single malt. We walk happliy back through the odd midge swarm, there being absolutely no wind this evening but no bites to report.
And so to bed with a view over the loch where the tide is swarming in quietly and the sun must be close to setting.
Tomorrow is plot visiting day before we head south to our home for the week.
Forgot to mention that we are meeting Mary on Monday evening at her house. which is only two miles from where we are staying, so that we can view a quarter acre plot and see the design mistakes she made and we can learn from.

Once again, pictures to follow! Will upload tomorrow.

From a very peaceful Cuil Lodge in Uig.

High adventure, a deserted village and a good dinner

2011-06-30T22:42:00.005+01:00

Out and about soon after breakfast we drive the few miles to Scalpay. As we drive through Kyles Scalpay, we check out a couple of plots - both with old ruins on them and both looking directly out to sea with many little islands, clear water and distant views to Skye. Beautiful but both quite small.
The road to Scalpay is two lanes, fast and well maintained - weird as it can't be used by many people. On the way we pass Loch Lacsadail and a signpost to a remote hostel over the hills and far away. We drive over the bridge (opened by Tony Blair when he was PM) and onto Scalpay. The roads are well surfaced but very very narrow with plenty of those hairpin bends and blind summits. The upside is that hardly anyone or any traffic is around. This is a beautiful island off an island and very lush and green. Seafood processing is the main employment and everyone seems to have a boat, floats and nets and things. We follow the road to "Out End" literally the end of the road. En-route we see the Scalpay Childrens playground - notice reads "All children to vacate playground by 9pm; Closed on Sundays" An indication, perhaps, of the Scalpay community.
While we are parked up reading the route around the island, Gary mentions the track to the hostel and we decide to return to Harris and do that walk instead. There is a 12 mile option or we could just walk as far as the deserted village and return. Sorted, deserted village it is.
We set off up a nicely graded track, well defined with stunning views back over towards Tarbert and the hills beyond.

Back to Tarbert from the pass

We head upwards for some time then reach a cairn at the top of the pass. Just after this we turn right to head down towards where the map says the village is. This track is also well kept if slightly wetter in places. An unknown bird tweets regularly beside us; captured on film just before my batteries run out. Will identify later.

Unknown bird - possibly a dunlin?

We now drop down quite steeply to the deserted village which has some interesting ruins, a beach and most interestingly a solar powered house in the process of being renovated. The only way to get any materials or provisions here would be by boat. We did see quad bike tracks higher up but the deep marsh and steepness of the ground would make it impossible to get any further.
The guidebook now suggests finding the gate leading to a track back a different way and meeting the track we left earlier at the head of the loch. Despite the bog, deep pools of mud and wet legs we do manage to find it and follow it, reassured by the footsteps and marks of others' boots. The track is narrow, undefined in a lot of places and quite tricky. We squelch onwards, over steep rocky bits, into deep quagmire bits and through the heather and fern. This is exhausting stuff - we can see the beach at the head of the loch so we persevere despite the steep drop to the sea on our right. Can't contemplate turning back now.
The book mentions there is a gill to cross; we hear it before we see it - good grief; the path deteriorates into a slimy, rocky, boggy nightmare and the gill is a raging torrent where a slip would be very nasty. Wet pants and trousers (from sitting / sliding in the water!) now join the wet legs as we slither and crawl across the rocks and through the water. Gary gets me across then follows me up a scramble on the other side and it's only another 20 minutes of wet slidey ground before we hit the beach and rejoin the main path.
A well deserved break for water and some food before we turn it around to head back. We knew that training on Dartmoor would come in handy.
The bad news is that we are at sea level and must regain an awful lot of height before we can descend to the car. This is steep terrain with switchbacks taking you where you would swear no path could go. There is a lot of sweating. Eventually we reach a cairn but it is just saying "you have done the steepest bit" and is not the top. On upwards, then relief when Gary can see the cairn on the top of the pass and I can confirm to my brain that it does not have to direct my legs uphill for much longer.
Back down the nice gentle path beside a tumbling burn and the welcome sight of the car waiting for us.
A swift return to our B&B for showers and a change before we head out for dinner. The Rodel Hotel lives up to its promise and we enjoy a lovely dinner. We had taken cameras (new batteries) in case of stunning sunsets but the clouds came in and although it wasn't dark it was gloomy and not spectacular.
Back to the B&B where we were in trouble for not leaving out our breakfast demands. Now completed and enjoying a glass of red before sleep.
Tomorrow we head back to Skye on the afternoon ferry. One more B&B before we are self catering again for the week.

Luskentyre beach, an interesting drive and dinner

2011-06-29T21:35:00.000+01:00

Headed to Luskentyre beach today which didn't disappoint. Originally planned to climb the hill behind the beach for the views over to Taransay and the islands beyond. However when we saw the size of the hill we realised how tired we were from all of that driving so decided to stick with the coast instead. Found a lovely small beach for our coffee break then headed back to the miles of white sands to walk around the estuary as far as possible. With the tide out, the sands go on for ever. It was also difficult to see the course of the river that cuts across the sands and seperates the two beaches. Decided to turn and head to the dunes for lunch. The weather had been mostly kind with small winds, slight showers and some sun. Managed to find shelter down a large pit in the dunes and settled down for lunch - eaten just in time before the true Harris type rain returned. Waterproofs on for the walk back to the car.
We saw a grand total of twelve other people on the beach - busy summer holiday time on Harris. Back at the carpark we talked to a 91 year old (with heart failure) who was contemplating walking the short distance to the beach - we reassured him it was flat and well worth the time and effort. It is apparently recognised worldwide as one of the best beaches to visit. That would explain the crowds then. We chatted to him a bit longer and he told us about how he negotiated his room rate at the Tarbert Hotel down from £160 to £100 - and it may call itself 4 star but is lacking in the finer detail. He later passed us on the road - still driving well and only stops or slows down when he feels unsafe!
We then parked up and suddenly almost two hours had passed watching the tide sneaking back in and taking photos.

Sunshine

...and showers

These pictures taken within 2 minutes of each other!

Thoughts return to food and we decide to drive to the Skoon Art Cafe which has a good reputation and is situated off the "Golden Road" This starts out well but quickly turns into a Harris special with less than a single track in places, steep unfenced drops to sea lochs and other watery areas with the odd hairpain bend and summit without a view thrown in for good measure. We managed to find the cafe but it is only open from 10.00 to 16.30; we might return at a later date. Decide to drive on to the end of the road which gets even narrower; luckily we only meet three or four cars (there are passing places) However one of these comes over the hill much too fast and we meet on a steep hill. They refuse to reverse so eventually Gary has to reverse back down the hill for some distance. Choice words and his opinion of the lady's driving ability are shared through the open window. On we go until we arrive at the Rodel Hotel, which is open! We run in through yet another heavy shower and end up like drowned rats. Could we have a table for two? Fully booked so we make a reservation for tomorrow instead.
Good views across to Skye from here - we never really got to see this view because of the weather in March / April.
Back to Tarbert seeking a takeaway but no joy. So it's to the local shop for dinner goods and back to our des res to eat them along with a bottle of red.
Plan for tomorrow is a 6 mile walk around Scalpay via the new road bridge. Should be interesting with good views to Skye and the smaller islands.

More notes re B&Bs

6: If toast is ordered as requested, please do not toast the bread and place it on my table 10 minutes before I arrive at my designated time. Cold, thin toast is a challenge; most of us would rather wait a few minutes and have it hot. (We have a plan - tomorrow we will be early!)
7: Would it really cost that much to offer orange juice by the refillable glass rather then a measured (small) portion which is gone when it's gone. You want to be viewed as generous not mean.
8: Owners of B&Bs are going to have to get with the digital age - not everyone carries that much cash with them. Cheques will soon be a thing of the past.

Harris via Skye and our first encounter!

2011-06-28T21:42:00.003+01:00

Oh there's a lot of catching up to do - two days worth of travel and overnight stays not to mention arriving at Tarbert on Harris.

Lockerbie is not a quiet place to stay - plenty of youth with plenty to shout about and on a Sunday night too. Compromise being open window and noise or too hot to sleep. A very good breakfast to set us up cooked by the husband of the couple running the B&B. A fast and easy trip to Glasgow and no problem with the motorway around the city either.
Stopped for a break and to swap driving at a forestry commission visitor centre just west of Loch Lomond - we decided to take the scenic route via Loch Fyne. The visitor centre was firmly closed, possibly for ever although they were building nice new toilets. We decided to eat our mid-morning snack here; all things dictated by the next food intake; so set ourselves up at a picnic table, opened the biscuits and the midges decended en masse. However neither of us was actually bitten although we did take some of them back to the car with us - proof perhaps that the vitamin B trick might be working. Will be smothering myself with the Avon spray from now on - double protection!
On along the lochs and coastal road to Fort William where diesel is cheaper than in Devon. Took full advantage of that assuming fuel prices would still be sky high in the islands. A short drive further north to Springburn B&B which was lovely. Clean, comfortable and very very quiet. Had dinner in Spean Bridge in a converted railway carriage - on the actual station. very nice and full of people walking the Great Glen Way. It was still light at 11.30 at night but kept the curtains open for the view. Also the clouds cleared and we enjoyed a wonderful sunset.


Highland cow at Springburn - enjoys leftover toast

Sunset from our bedroom window - 23.25 GMT

After another fine Scottish breakfast we were off on the road to the Skye Bridge. Slightly underestimated how long it would take us so we were late for our meeting with Mary.
She was waiting for us and we enjoyed a hour and a half discussing our dream home, what would go in it, what was possible and what would cost more / less. She also provided us with a sketch of the process and payments schedule. We could be looking at 18 months in total once we have decided on the plot. She told us that she had recently made a site visit by Kayak - it is a build on an island site but most people would take the boat. She had to prove that she was actually the architect before they would take her seriously. She also said that she had enjoyed her bike ride around Harris looking at sites we had found. Anyway, the long and the short of it is that she can work with virtually any site but we should find one with outline or detailed planning - everything else is possible.
Headed off via Portree to see three sites that are north of Uig (where the ferry sails from) One of them was in a fantastic position and was around 3 acres. One we failed to find and the third was not suitable. Nice area though with great views to the Outer Hebrides.
Back to Uig for the ferry - an easy and quiet sailing with not many passangers or vehicles on board. The journey was somewhat traumatic as a result of me "losing" my new smartphone. I retraced my steps at least twice; asked if it had been handed in; rang it from Gary's phone 12 times listening out for the ringtone and ..... finally found it when we returned to the car! Sometimes I amaze myself - I knew I'd put it in the rucksack and yes the zip was open so of course it has fallen out / been stolen / was being used by someone now etc etc. Gary was very patient and nice about the whole thing.
So we have arrived in Tarbert, checked in at the Avalon B&B (twin beds!) and got very wet walking the half mile into the town. So wet in fact that we turned around and came back to the B&B. Wifi available so can write to my heart's content. Also have a mobile signal here.
So, settled in for the next three days; owner looked slightly alarmed at the amount of luggage we traipsed in but we really needed to sort out the car which was full of stuff. It has just started raining hard again and it was 12.5 degrees when we came off the ferry. Now that's summer!

Notes to anyone running or thinking of running a B&B
1: Have a good think about the size of the towels you offer your guests - would you dry yourself on a large handkerchief? If the answer is no then why expect paying guests to do so?
2: Use good quality coffee at breakfast; we can accept nescafe sachets in the room but hot brown water at breakfast doesn't cut it!
3: Don't plaster your walls with notices - provide a "book" of house rules if you really must.
4: If you say wifi available then broadcast the network and let your guests have the key.
5: Why do we have to order breakfast the day before? I might fancy something different tomorrow morning.
(there may be more to follow, we have 4 more nights of B&B to go)

Not one midge seen or heard since the forest so perhaps it is too cool / windy / rainy / sunny.

That's it for now - tomorrow is for leisure and re-aquainting ourselves with Harris and its glorious scenery and friendly people. trying the Harris Hotel for dinner - close enough to walk, rain permitting.

Third attempt via smart phone

2011-06-27T20:47:00.000+01:00

Unable to connect via wifi and struggling with smartphone so limited update today. Hopefully will be able to write tomorrow. Very tricky when I can't see the text! At Springburn B&B near Spean Bridge. Much quieter than Lockerbie!
Looking forward to tomorrow.

2,4,6,8 MOTORWAY

2011-06-26T20:35:00.002+01:00

(Tom Robinson from the 70's for those of you wondering)

Anyway, today has been the day of the M5. M6 and M74 until we reached Lockerbie.

I would recommend travelling on a Sunday if you are planning a journey from South to North. There were plenty of people towing caravans that seemed to agree with this but otherwise a fairly fast and uneventful journey. 357 miles in less than five hours actual driving time (just worked it out and we apparently didn't exceed the speed limit either!)

Discovered a connection for the i-pod in the Audi so we could listen to selected tracks when Radio 2 was rubbish. Playlist for the journey included early 10CC and Leonard Cohen.

So we are now firmly ensconced in Tarras B&B on the main street in Lockerbie and using their wireless connection. Downlead speed approaching 6mbs, which we can only dream of in Willand.

A fine, if early, dinner at the King's Arms a short stroll up the high street and we are set for the night. As we walk back in to the B&B we have to place our order for tomorrow's breakfast - full of dinner and unable to even contemplate the thought of more food, I agree to some toast with a wee bit of bacon. Gary saves the day by going for the full Scottish. This pre-ordering seems to be the norm north of the border.

So, tomorrow we face the delightful prospect of travelling either through or around Glasgow to reach yet another motorway, the M8 which will transport us across the Clyde via the Erskine Bridge - listen out for it on the traffic reports - and into the highlands and the road to the isles. Rumour (well Jacqueline actually) has it that a new link road will be open by the time we return, making this bit unnecessary.

We have accommodation booked close to Spean Bridge for tomorrow night on a working farm complete with highland cattle, plenty of tartan and a fairly basic website. No clear directions but how many farmhouse B&Bs can there be close to the A82 in that particular area? We will see. I will include a photo of the next B&B in tomorrow's blog.

It's still very warm and humid here but forecast for tomorrow is bright, sunny and cooler. I was extremely grateful for the air con in the car today - one more thing I couldn't do without.

I'm off to eat the thoughtfully provided toffees from the hospitality tray as dinner had now been partially digested and I have a small corner to fill.

From a very peaceful Lockerbie, until tomorrow.

A report from Mary and 14 potential plots

2011-06-12T17:00:00.004+01:00

Great excitement as two emails from Mary at Dualchas rolled in late on Thursday afternoon. She has visited Harris to take a look at the three sites we had given her details of. She had, as promised, gone on her push bike and cycled around the whole island - I know it's not that big but even so ..... and I'm pretty sure that the wind would have been against her, whichever direction she was travelling in. Add to that the not so summery weather and, much respect to the lady.

Anyway, her preference is the same plot as Gary likes best purely because of its location which has uninterrupted views across the Sound of Harris and is very private. However, it is a steep site so access could be tricky. Although planning has lapsed on all three sites, the planners wouldn't have any objection to new submissions so that's OK then. The site near Tarbert would be easier to develop as it is relatively flat with services near by. "But it is near the main road" this comment did make me smile; it's not exactly a motorway!

We will discuss all in more detail on the 28th June when we next meet with her.

As far as Skye goes, we have reduced the list of possible plots to see to a manageable 14 and have grouped them by area. The plan is to see a few on the Tuesday afternoon before getting the ferry then a few more on Saturday morning before we head to our holiday home "down south". We are determined to have a few good days simply walking, eating, reading and drinking good wine and will plan in the remaining plot visits on a rest day. I need to get the details from various agents so we have a better idea what we are looking at, what planning permission already exists and any conditions attached to purchase.

Some of the plots are in great positions and most of them offer more land than those on Harris.

We will see.

In the meantime, the house is cleaned to within an inch of its life and we
( I ) have to get into the habit of leaving it tidy whenever we go out and even when we don't. It's a bit of a trial but hopefully it will be worth it.

So, a few more challenging walks planned before we go - we should be fit enough to tackle the Cuillins - B&Bs checked out via Trip Advisor and no nasty surprises there although unable to read the review written in Spanish. Directions to our holiday accommodation in Ord have arrived; it sounds quite remote with views of the sea and the mountains behind.

All we have to do now is wait - easier said than done. I thought I had learned patience over the last three plus years but it's surprising how quickly you revert to type.

Next post will be just before we go / as we start travelling - unless something happens that adds to the story. Have managed to use the Scanlife app to upload this webpage to my smart phone so will be able to update even if we are out of wifi range. Not bad for a non-techie!

A Dartmoor distraction

2011-06-02T12:44:00.000+01:00

The plan - a long walk around the northern hills of Dartmoor.

The weather - cloudy, a fresh breeze and no rain forecast - perfect for walking.

Arrived at Belstone and set off as intended. Walked through the woods to Sticklepath and South Zeals looking for a different route up Cosdon Beacon. We know it would be uphill and then some whichever way we climbed it. The hill was indeed steep but gave us a different perspective and we (eventually) hit the top, sat by the trig point and enjoyed lunch no 1.

The route took us down the long ridge deep into Dartmoor's remote hills then we would go across to Hangingstone Hill, down to Steeperton Gorge and back along the Belstone ridge. A good 11 miles of fairly challenging walking.

As we set off down from Cosdon, Gary spotted a slight problem on the horizon - the army had other ideas and were exercising their right to use the moor for firing practice. As we usually walk the moors at the weekend, it hadn't occurred to us that this could be a problem.

After a quick re-think we decided on an alternative route and carried on to Hound Tor where we planned to about turn and find a track back through the marshes in the Taw basin. Well it had been dry for some time. However first of all we had a quick chat with a couple we met on the Tor. Did you know there were 189 Tors on Dartmoor? No but we do now and we also know that this couple were planning to visit them all during their retirement. After a bit of a competition as to who could name the most Tors we headed off in the opposite direction towards the marshes.

(The last time we were on Hound Tor, we met a man who insisted on telling us all about his overnight bivvi up on the high moor)

Through the ankle scratching new gorse bushes, following sheep paths and narrowly avoiding pot holes, boulders and other hazards we fought our way down the hillside and finally picked up a good track that took us across the flood plain. This was easy if warm walking. The cooling breeze was hidden by the Belstone ridge.

As we were moaning about the army and red flags and perhaps we could have just visited Steeperton, the guns started up followed by what sounded like machine gun fire. Then the heavy artillery with huge loud bangs and flares in the distance. OK, so they really were firing today.

We were outside of the range so imagine my surprise when Gary mentioned the soldier in full camouflage gear, peering over the sights of his gun about two metres to our right. We smiled and walked on past and over the ford. No idea what he was doing there or how many of his colleagues were hidden out of view from us. I imagine he was the boundary guard or something similar. It was an interesting feeling to walk away knowing there was a man with a gun just behind you!

At the next ford, two cyclists - one of whom was in her swimsuit in the river (she had very pink knees); the other appeared to be dismantling his bike.

An uneventful walk back to the car with a lunch no 2 and a final cup of coffee taken just off the track.

An interesting reverse required in the lane from Belstone as a knackered old lorry tried to drive past us. There was no way he was going backwards so we did; luckily Gary can fast reverse without hitting the hedge or wobbling off course.

The GPS showed we had walked almost 8 miles so not as far as planned but there's always next week. Note to selves - check the range firing programme next time!
An interesting day out, continuing the getting fit theme and a nice distraction from wondering about the house sale, plots of land and what jobs might be out there.
We have no photos to share as we took no cameras - would probably have been regarded with suspicion if we had tried to take one of the soldier!

4 weeks and we're almost there

2011-05-28T19:40:00.000+01:00

In four weeks time we will be packing to return to Skye and Harris.

Driving from Devon this time with stops in Lockerbie and Invergarry (couldn't resist this one)

Back to Skye on Tuesday 24th June (mid-summer's day) to visit some potential plots in the north of the island then on to the late ferry to Harris. We have three nights on Harris before the late ferry back again on the Friday evening. Then looking forward to a full week on Skye complete with more exploration and a good bit of walking - of a tough nature! Cuillins and the Trotternish Peninsula both on the agenda. We are staying in the south of the island so new territory to explore.

This time on Harris we hope to take a trip out to Taransay itself as well as walk around the headland / coast that was rained off in April. It will be interesting to see how busy the island gets in high summer. Will also be interesting to see what high summer weather looks like.

Not forgetting the mighty midges - we are stuffed full of vitamin B, I am eating enough marmite for an army and we are looking to buy the tried and tested Avon SSS shower gel. Will be interesting to see how effective it is.

Mary (Dualchas) is off to Harris next week to take a look at three plots for us. We should get her reports soon after that which will give us a better idea of what might be a possibility.

In the meantime, the BMW has been traded in for a sturdier, higher wheelbase Mitsubishi capable of 4-wheel drive so we will be ready for whatever the weather and roads can throw at us.

Back in Devon the house is now on the market and we wait to see what interest there might be.

Can go ahead with the plot and possibly groundworks but would be preferable if the house had sold too.

So, treading water for the moment but plenty of planning going on. Especially exciting to be thinking of what we want to design into our perfect house.

No photos as we can't photograph our thinking!

Gary is about to launch his own photography website which will showcase some of the best photos from the April holiday.

Will report back once we have Mary's findings and can plan some more.

An update between visits

2011-05-02T10:52:00.000+01:00

In the two weeks we have been home we have sent details of five plots to Mary from Dualchas. Four of these are on Harris and one on Skye.
She will be visiting them for us in a couple of weeks time to consider the size, levels, connections, access and to give us an idea of what type of building she could fit on the site / get planning for. Planning has lapsed on three of the plots so she will also look into that for us.
She will be travelling to Harris on her bike! Not sure if this is motorised or not.
As stated in the last post, we are returning to Harris and Skye at the end of June, beginning of July. This time we are spending a week on Skye as we only had one day there in March (and it rained and it rained) There are several areas of Skye that we haven't even visited yet and quite a few attractive looking plots.
We will be travelling via accommodation in Lockerbie and Invergarry then sailing from Uig to Harris for three nights. Back to Uig for a week in the south of Skye. A few days walking being planned (getting fit now) as well as a further meeting with Mary and visits to several plots on Skye.
After this we will be making the decision regarding which island and then the hunt begins in earnest - or we make an offer on that perfect plot we have fallen for.
The photos we (Gary) took are making good progress in the photo lab (second floor of the house) and some of them are spectacular. Will be choosing one to have printed on canvas - trouble is at the moment there around 12 contenders and he hasn't finished processing them all yet. Gary is also in the process of setting up a new photography website where he will showcase some of the best he has taken. Also looking for photo competitions as some are of a high enough standard to be winners.
Meanwhile life at home goes on with redundancy a reality and work now finished - there are a couple of options being considered at the moment and we have plans A to D that would allow these options to work with the build! Also finalising the set up of my new limited company.
More exciting times ahead; for now considering another (longer) cycle ride to continue the fitness training.
Will update again before we head off, and of course when we receive Mary's report on her visits.

Things we forgot to tell you and guess what?

2011-04-17T21:10:00.000+01:00

We are going back to Harris just before we have our Midge Testing week on Skye. Have just booked three nights B&B for the end of June - we will be on Harris at mid-summer so will get to experience the longest hours of daylight in the UK. Can't wait - although I know we will have to.

Things we meant to mention:
The community tennis court at Bunessan which is planted dead in the middle of a peat bog - with access. All visitors welcomed. One of the most bizarre sights we saw.
The fact that Tesco has managed to get a toehold on the Co-op monopolised island through a small but perfectly located shop in Stornaway. Watch that space; the shop is the first thing many will see as they disembark. No Sunday opening though.
That sparrows were nesting in the walls of Blacksheep House.
A download speed of over 6MB per second - in Stornaway!
The slow and rather pungent death of the shellfish that was still inhabiting the pretty shell I picked up at Gairloch; good job it announced its demise before we got to the airport and security.
The show-winning highland cow at the Great Glen B&B who happily poses for photos.
We watched the seaplane land at Loch Lomond - or rather on the Loch.

Will continue to blog intermittently as time goes on and our plans for the future crystallise (spell check will have a Z in that word) Many things to do and people / agents to speak to before we head back to the islands.

In summary of a great two weeks away ...

2011-04-15T15:54:00.000+01:00

Back at the ranch after a seamless transition from north of the border - everything is so green here. Scotland is at least a couple of weeks behind in terms of climate / seasons.

Wednesday's photos below for your viewing delight.


Beinn Dearg en route to Inverness


Nessie captured

So, yesterday was a side trip to visit Glen Affric and Dog Falls (couldn't make it up) which were looking lovely in weak sunshine. We walked the 400 meters to see the falls which would be spectacular after heavy rain and were OK without; photo attached but nothing special.

Dog Falls in the spring sunshine

The drive back to Glasgow was pretty and dramatic in places with some interesting meetings of coaches and lorries on very narrow roads.
Ben Nevis was almost out of the clouds and still had a good covering of snow.


Ben Nevis from a layby on the A82

We stopped for lunch in Glen Coe - there was no piper piping, only an idiot from a small blue car who stood precariously on the wall and yodeled with his pants in full view; almost put me off my food.
After lunch, we stopped at the Green Welly where I had earmarked a pair of shoes two weeks earlier (what else) The sad news was the smallest was a size 6 - even two pairs of socks wouldn't make them fit so did I leave empty handed? No I bought a nice new top instead.
Headed on south to Loch Lomond; I do wonder whether someone may have taken notice of my email about the rubbish, needles and glass by the loch as there were new signs saying "Don't be a tosser" The words would at least resonate with those that use the lochside as a litter receptacle.
A final stop at the far end of Loch Lomond and a brief appearance by Ben Lomond as if to say goodbye.

Ben Lomond, far right makes it into the album

From here is was only 30 minutes to the airport. This time we managed to negotiate the one way system and find the car hire office to hand the car back. The added bonus for Thrifty was the amount of sand that a dustpan and brush couldn't remove from the boot or back seats. A lift to the Holiday Inn and surprisingly good dinner at an airport bar and that was us done!

So we have:
Driven 1,289 miles;
Been away for 16 nights;
Taken 2 flights and 2 ferries;
Taken 1,527 photos between us!
Experienced rain (lots of it), wind (ditto), hail, mist, a little bit of sunshine, grey and white cloud, rainbows.
Visited some of the most beautiful places in the UK
Spoken to more people than we would over the course of a "normal" two weeks
Made the decision that we could live in any one of several places.

The pace of life, the people, the peace and quiet all appeal but the very important Midge Test still has to take place. We have received a great deal of information, warnings, suggestions and good luck messages from those we have met.

Now we will take a look at the information we have brought back with us; contact Dualchas architects to discuss options and put the house on the market.

This time next year ....... who knows??

A long but scenic drive to the Great Glen

2011-04-13T17:23:00.000+01:00

We set off after breakfast to drive to Drumnadrochit via Inverness.
We woke to the sound of heavy rain but it clears as we drive away. There is more snow laying lower on the mountains this morning.
I have no photos to share with you today although we did take some back along Loch Glascarnoch towards Beinn Dearg and Gary is sure that he captured Nessie on film as we reached Loch Ness.
To get here we drove to Inverness, checked out the town's facilities, saw the Inverness Caledonian Thistles stadium then head up the coast to Nairn. Description of Nairn by Gary "Sidmouth without the income to sustain it" A faded seaside town - we do find a place to park overlooking the sea where we have lunch.
In order to avoid two sets of roadworks, we (I) decide that we will take a different route back to Loch Ness. We go across country through Grant Town on Spey - similar to Moreton-in-March or Tavistock - then on with great views of the Cairngorms to discover we are only 7 miles from Aviemore and very close to the famous Toumintal to Cockbridge road. However Loch Ness is calling so back up the A9 and we find ourselves back in Inverness. It was a nice drive.
We drive down the side of Loch Ness wondering how Jacqueline walked the Great Glen way as there is only the road and the loch. Decide the trail must be higher up the hill.
Arrive at Dumnadrochit and find the Great Glen B&B where we have been upgraded and given the huge master suite as people who were in "our" room wanted to stay another night. That's OK with us. We have a kitchen, 6 foot bed, sound surround TV and a second bedroom just in case!
We are given details of several good eating places for tonight - two of which will come and pick you up and drop you off again for free.
The wifi only works in the main house which is the reason for the early blog and no photos yet as we haven't been able to do the leisurely download from the cameras.
Our pad is down by the stables; close to the sheep and lambs and the hot tub. It is guaranteed to be very peaceful. Finish the cafetiere of coffee and home-made cake and head off to unpack, repack, remove as much sand and mud as possible from our clothes and boots so that we can arrive at the airport on Friday morning in good order.
Will blog tomorrow if the Holiday Inn has wifi.
Gary is fully occupied trying to get the three house cats to play with his laces, bits of string. However they are Siamese or Bengal / Siamese cross and much too haughty to play. So we head off to feed the horses instead.
Til tomorrow - or Friday morning
J&G

Ross & Cromarty - not the shipping forecast...

2011-04-12T21:18:00.000+01:00

But another beautiful part of Scotland which we also like in terms of "could we live here?"
I am writing this looking out of our bedroom window across Gruinard Bay; the sea and mountains combining to produce yet another stunning end of the day.
We set out to walk from the green hut near Loch Maree as planned but stormy weather distracted us with a photo opportunity after the first hill.


Minutes later the view had been obliterated by the storm

Eventually carried on through Poolewe and Gairloch always having a wary eye on the weather which was interesting today. Decided on impulse to turn right and take the 9 mile single track road to Redpoint. This is a far as you can go before you would hit Loch Torridon - if you had a boat. We were now opposite Skye's Trotternish peninsula with great views of the Cuillins in the distance, islands in the Minch and very close to the sea. Passed a sign for a pub, this is a rarety in this part of the world, and we logged its location for later. The road ends at a parking area overlooking yet another beautiful beach.
Two carloads of people dressed for the weather in a selection of Harris tweed type garments with the kind of children (loud) that you might associate with the country set arrived just after we did. However, the beach has room for all and they head energetically for a large sand dune. We follow the stream and hit the beach. We watch the storm clouds gather over Skye then realise that this beach is next on the hit list - we have already walked to the headland so prepare to get wet!
We put to use the large selection of waterproof clothing available to us, finish our walk then head back to the car where we realise that the morning and some of the afternoon has disappeared. Scrub the pub lunch then.


Redpoint beach; a stormy Sky(e) in the distance

There is also a good view of the distant mountains; the rain and hail we experience falls as snow on their lofty heights.


Fresh snow; it is a littloe chilly today even at sea level.

We head back towards Altbea to visit the Perfume Studio which also boasts a cafe - we are in need of food by now. This turns out to be 3 miles down yet another single track road but is not the shack predicted by Gary. In fact it is a modern, cosy cafe serving good food with a perfume / soap workshop attached. We eat well again and watch the NATO ships excercising out of the window.


NATO ship running before the next storm as viewed from outside the Aroma Cafe

We decide to visit a couple more beaches before returning to the Love Croft. One of these has sand so soft you sink in very quickly - too quickly for me and we have to retreat. Gary takes some nice photos using my sit on mat to avoind the damp ground. The results are worth it I think.

Little Gruinard Bay

The other couple staying at the B&B had told us about a beach off (you guessed it) a single track road close to the house, where they had searched for the otters that have been seen there recently. So we drive off and find a hidden gem of a white sand, turquoise water, breaking waves type beach but no otters. We do spy a perfectly formed Hebrideam Contemporary Home in the most wonderful position. We can but dream.
Back to the Love Croft where we order a last breakfast and get ready to head off north and east to the Great Glen for tomorrow night.
This holiday / new life search is coming to an end - we have plenty to think about.

Parking places and many, many photos

2011-04-11T22:10:00.000+01:00

We share a conversation at breakfast with a couple who farm diary cows in the Scottish Borders; their cows are Swiss / German and were delivered on a double decker lorry 24 hours after they placed their order. You just don't have conversations like this very often.
After an excellent breakfast complete with honey from the owner's bees we head south down the coast road. It would appear that NATO are carrying out excercies in Gruinard Bay; there are flares, ships of many shapes and sizes, personnel from all over Europe and low flying aircraft to watch - makes for an interesting start to the day.
We stop in most of the parking places we find because whoever designed them must have been blown away by the views just as we are.
We visit Poolewe market which is in the community hall (not a lot to buy) then head off in search of a bank (need to pay cash when we leave) We find a Bank of Scotland in what appears to be someone's driveway and get the money. On we go through Gairloch, along Loch Maree when we see the sign for Victoria Falls - anyone would have to stop wouldn't they? It's only 150 metres walk and while not quite as spectacular as the more well known version it's not bad. First warning sign we have seen not to go beyond the fence - of course everyone has and there's a well beaten track to the best spot for taking photos. Chat to a couple from Dorset who make us envious by telling of temperatures of 23 degrees yesterday (They are a bit wet and bedraggled today) I do my good deed for the day and run after them to return a rather nice and obviously treasured walking stick.

Victoria Falls, Wester Ross

We drive on via several more parking spots and visit the Bein Eighe nature reserve where we shelter from a violent rain shower beneath a heather-roofed, open sided building. Decide we might tackle the tricky, 7k mountain trail tomorrow. This comes with many warnings about the serious nature of the ground and height gained. The visitor centre only opened for the season yesterday and its computer is still catching up and giving the weather forecast for October!
The clouds clear and we get a few photos of Bein Eighe the mountain, still showing snow on the ridges.


Bein Eighe plus snow. Serious rock and serious ridges.

We find a cafe / shop / knitting centre in Kinlochewe where we eat good home-made food for the two of us for less than a tenner. We still can't work out the role of the apparently 75years plus gentleman who was sitting in the cafe when we arrived and hovered between the kitchen and shop without seeming to do anything.
Head back towards Gairloch, stopping on the way at a small lochan where we discover yet more trails and walks with the details kept in a small wooden shed. Perhaps we will try one of these tomorrow?
We walk to the pier in Gairloch where the RIB used for trips to see the wales don't inspire us at all. Given how cold it is just walking along the pier, the thought of racing through the waters in a survival suit don't tempt either of us. Decide to stay firmly on dry land despite the whiteboard boasting of sightings of otters, dolphins and sea eagles on 9th April. We do spot two oyster catchers for the twitchers amongst you (Linda).

Another car park between two sandy white beaches and photos from the car first then down the cliffs for a walk on the beach. Gorgeous golden sands with mountain views. We can see Skye in the distance which prompts a quick song of "Over the sea etc" We also spy the pub for an early dinner.

Beach at Gairloch

Beach with a view of the mountains - perfect

Early dinner to beat the crowds of NATO personnel who seem to have reserved a large number of tables. The food was good but didn't quite live up to the location (Gary's comment "the location demanded excellence but failed to deliver more than adequacy - and the barman called me mate!" )
It was quite cool by the time we had eaten and left so we travelled most of the way back to Laide then struck off for a parking space with a view west and waited for the sunset. Not disappointed with this one - we took so many photos between us it was difficult to decide which one to share.

As the light fades we head back to the Love Croft where more lambs have been born and Steve tells us he often sees Sea Eagles in the hills behind the croft and there is also a pair nesting on the island in the loch.
Perhaps we will catch a glimpse tomorrow, or the next day.

and it's farewell to Stornaway, Lewis and Harris

2011-04-10T21:55:00.000+01:00

A late blog this evening as we had to get out and eat while the restaurants / bars were still serving food.
(6 -8pm only; lucky to find somewhere as it's a Sunday)
Headed out after a surprisingly quiet night in the metropolis that is Stornaway to take a look at some plots on one of the peninsulas east of the town. The first thing to note wa the huge number of people dressed to the nines and driving or walking to attend church. The other was that the only facility that was open was a garage / shop on the way to point - it was extremely busy! It seems that Sundays here are like Sundays used to be many years ago in England.
We topped up with fuel just in case as we have a fair trip to make once we leave Ullapool.
We have solved the mystery of Bracelet and the plot; it turns out there are two Bracelets one on each side of the loch - so quick decision and we drive back to find the second Bracelet and the large croft.
A quick 20 miles later and with one eye on the time for ferry check in we are on a winding, single track road that takes us via a very narrow bridge to the island of Great Berneray. This is the Scottish equivilent of Hill Billy country; although we do find the plot we both agree that the area is really not for us. Back alongside an inland loch that was sparkling when we passed it going the other way but the sun has gone in and the clouds are lowering and grey.
Back to Stornaway and into the (closed) ferry terminal to pick up our tickets. Although there are staff behind the barred counter, they don't open until 1245. If we found this confusing, imagine how the young German family in front of us must have felt.
Tickets grasped, we have lunch in the ferry queue (just dinner to go and we will have the set). Somehow had internet access in the queue, Very impressed.We then roll on in time for a departure as scheduled. Forecast is for a smooth crossing with the posibility of moderate swells. Gary is most disappointed as we haven't seen one wave break over the front end yet!
The ferry is busy and the mezzanine deck is also used - quite weird to see cars on what is effectively the first floor.

Stornaway hoves out of view - quite quickly

This is a three hour crossing so we brave the cool winds on deck until the island has disappeared over the horizon. Then we head for the observation lounge up front where fellow passengers are sleeping, eating, computing and generally making a noise!
After a while, the sun shines so we go back outside where, if you are on the right side of the boat, it feel quite warm. Sit well wrapped up on the upper deck and have it to ourselves for much of the journey.
We spy our first sight of the mainland about an hour out of Ullapool (photo by J attached; not very good but subject matter limited today) I think that is An Teallach in the haze.

We dock dead on time and disembark to head for the coast road. First we have to follow the pack from the ferry who seem to think it is OK to overtake and drive on the right even on sharp bends. Thankfully there is very little traffic heading towards Ullapool - if I was local, I would avoid the ferry arrival times like the plague.
Happily all of these cars are heading to Inverness so we have the coast road to Gairloch to ourselves.

Photos of the dramatic skies at Ullapool; also the reason for no sunset pics

The drive to Laide where we are staying the next three nights is beautiful with rivers, high mountains complete with snow, sea lochs and sandy beaches which we plan to explore over the next couple of days.
The sat nav takes us directly to the Love Croft which turns out to be a very comfortable B&B. They recommend the hotel in the next village for dinner so we head out straight away.
Dinner is unhealthy but tasty and we find the bar full of British army logistics people based just up the road at a fuel depot - hopefully not a secret one! They are having problems with their radios and discuss this at length during dinner. We chat to the apparent boss who is from Gosport via Bahrain; he recommends the hot chocolate fudge cake which Gary takes to be local knowledge and goes for it - justifiably as it turns out. He doesn't recommend the 10k run up the hill from their base. No worries there.
So back to the Love Croft; settled in and waiting to see what tomorrow might bring.

To Stornaway via the west coast road

2011-04-09T18:18:00.000+01:00

We took our time reluctantly leaving south Harris and Blacksheep House this morning and spent some time chatting with Pete and Christine who own the house. Finally set off at 1030 in hazy sunshine, making the sea a beautiful shade of blue. We dawdled our way past the beaches, over the rocky road to Tarbert (it's allowed to dawdle on the roads here as long as you let other traffic pass you by pulling in)
It was interesting to actually see the scenery alongside the road to Stornaway as all was hidden last time we came this way. The hills looked very inviting if a little damp.
We carried on to Leurbost where we turned left to head for the coast. The road was a straight line with views back to Harris and its hills. The air was sparkling and clear and is felt warm!
Carried on until we reached Callanish which is where the famous stones are situated. We stop and park up by the visitor centre and make a visit. Luckily for us the coachload is just finishing up as they have taken up most of the seats in the cafe and we fancy a coffee and a butty.(quote from the manager "They're like the tide, in and out" Sites like this need visitors though. Good quality coffee, service with a smile and two very good bacon rolls later we head out towards the stones.
Guess what - you can walk amongst the stones, even touch them if you want, you don't have to pay a penny and we have them to ourselves for at least 10 minutes. It is an atmospheric site; Gary takes an artistic and moody photo, mine are a bit more basic but I do get a nice shot back to the hills of Harris.

Alone at the stones; nice midday shadows

View back to the Harris hills

We both agree that we would return here and spend more time walking between the three sets of stone circles and, no doubt, taking many photos.
We drive on and pay a visit to the Hebridean Soap Company which is quite tricky to find. It is in a settlement called Breascleat ( we have renamed it bracelet for ease) and very well hidden. As we park up, Gary is out and speaking to someone from the car next to us - a bit forward I think. I then realise that this is the owner of the company and she was just closing up for the day! Shop unlocked plus a quick tour and lesson in how to make soap just for us. Of course we buy, we were planning to anyway but it is something special to have the whole shop opened up just for us. A family we recognise from the Callinish stones arrive as we are deciding what to buy so at least she gets the benefit of two lots of purchasers.
On the road out of Bracelet we are looking for a large croft with permission to build but fail to follow the vague instructions from the agent. However, we do agree that we like this area which is a bit surprising.
On we travel towards the junction with the other road to Stornaway; failing yet again to pick out the plot in Shawbost. We have more luck with a plot in Brue which is 1/4 acre house site plus 1/4 acre croft land - with lovely views to Barhvas Bay.
Eight miles in a straight line to Stornaway on the other coast; follow the clear instructions to the apartment we have for the night - easy. We are now settled on a very low but comfortable settee in a ground floor apartment in easy walking distance of the Co-op. It's very odd to hear traffic outside not to mention people walking by, talking loudly!
Dinner is bought, the washing is in (travelling light so taking the last opportunity to wash various items of clothing) the wine is open and the mighty greens won 2-0.
Not a bad end to a great week! Back to the mainland tomorrow; heading for the Lovecroft in Laide.

On reflection .....

2011-04-08T17:42:00.000+01:00

of our week on this beautiful island where we have experienced most types of weather (except snow and a real storm) We love the peace and quiet, the quality of the light, the friendliness of the people we have met and the road system(!) We have found a couple of possible plots and will need to speak to planners and Mary from Dualchas before we could proceed to the next stage. It is entirely possible that we could settle here and be content. To be continued .........
And also a reflection of the islands outside the house as it was so still this morning that they appeared to float above and below the water.

A still and misty morning

Woke to a thick mist preventing any view from the house but - whisper it gently -there was no wind blowing.
After a leisurely breakfast with Gary making short work of the remaining eggs, we headed off for Luskentyre beach; the beach of the sandblasting earlier in the week.
We had to share the carpark with one other car (a French family already on the beach). Notes on the map from the house directed us along the coast and over the headland to some pebbly beaches.
We sloshed our way across the sodden turf, slippery rocks and small streams until we reached one of many tempting headlands. Each one just called out to be visited. Eventually we found a spot for lunch where we could watch the huge waves breaking beyond a rocky outcrop. The stones on the beach were beautifully cratfed by nature with different shades of whorls and circles in contrasting colours to the main body of the stone. Rounded by the waves and almost polished smooth, there were hundreds of them. Much too big to move, which is probably why they remain where they belong.
The mist, which hadn't lifted all morning dropped even lower obscuring our view of the beach and the small islands in the sound.

A lunch spot with a view; would like to be here in a storm!

We returned to the beach; although the tide had retreated it was just too tricky to move safely down the rocks to small bays revealed between the outcrops. It was difficult enough leaping down the rocks we had climbed to access the cliff earlier.
Back on the beach, still no wind, we walked as far as the eye could see, which was a very long way! The light on the sand / sea and dunes was mesmerising and it looked just like an impressionist picture. Gary captured it on camera, kneeling at the water's edge to get the right angle.


We walked as far as you can see - and then back along the high tide line.

As a distraction a whole family gathering had arrived, two children in the sea OK paddling only but in the sea, in Harris, in April. The men of the family were setting up a barbecue in the dunes. Whatever was cooking smelled pretty tempting as we walked by.
The sun tempted us with a brief glimpse at this point but it was short-lived and the mist descended once again.
Found some sea-urchin cases / shells (?) which were a lovely shade of lilac and some perfectly formed tiny shells in a similar colour. Left the sea urchin for someone else but pocketed a few of the shells.
We both had damp feet by this time so headed back to the car with a view to stopping at a particularly pleasant spot for a final coffee on the way home.
I was taken by the light as we approached the turning back to the main road so hopped out and tried to capture it. This is along the estuary with the tide a long way out. More misty hills in the background.

Just managed to avoid the dead sheep out of picture RHS!

Sadly our preferred coffe spot was taken (there were a lot more people about today) so we drove to a spot we had earmarked yesterday and enjoyed a cup of coffee in peace and quiet.
As we drove back to the house, spotted Alan's son assisting a very new black lamb to find its feet.
Unpacked the car and in to start thinking about dinner and packing up.
Tomorrow sees us off north to Lewis for one night; we are going to travel via the west coast road and visit the Callanish stones and several other allegedly gorgeous beaches. Another adventure in the making.
Will be chekcing in from Stornaway tomorrow evening. We have a whole apartment booked for the night then the ferry to Ullapool on Sunday.

to Toe Head or almost

2011-04-07T18:10:00.000+01:00

Briefly consider the early ferry to North Uist then decide the day looks good enough to walk to Toe Head - you can see this in most of the photos taken from the house; although it is often hiding its head in the cloud.
We drive for all of ten minutes and head for the parking at the far and of Northton. We set off along with the only other visitors today; three people and two black labs we recognise from the ferry. They are clearly hardy walkers and set off at a pace, presumably to climb the hill.
We decide to take the coast path and are immediately distracted by a hidden from view beach behind Northton; you wouldn't know it was there. Gary takes some wonderful photos as we have blue skies today - lovely sparkly holiday weather.


View back to where we live


Holiday weather

We spy three more beaches and walk alongside the cliffs, dunes and rocks to visit them all. Each has its own charm and most importantly shelter from the westerly that has started to blow. However, the weather to the west looks fine so we can put up with the wind if it's from that direction.
We spot a ruin on a small headland and designate it as our early lunch / coffee spot. On reaching it, many sheep have been there first (literally) so we slide down to a small but perfectly formed beach of pure white sand.
Disturbed briefly by two mad dogs, shortly followed by the hardy walkers. They were indeed fast as we spotted them on top of the hill earlier. Can't help but think that this terrain and views deserve a slower pace.
We carry on along the coast, not decided exactly where to head for or where to stop. We keep on going "just to that rocky summit" until we realise that it is much further to Toe Head than it looks on the map. It is rumoured that eagles nest there and have been seen recently. A hollowed out (dead) sheep we manage to avoid, seems evidence that something predatory is in the area.
Discussing whether to turn around or continue, our eyes are drawn upwards towards what looks like an easy route to the top of the hill. When will we learn? There is never an easy way up!

The ruined medieval chapel from a quarter of the way up the hill.

What feels like hours later and with me blaming the wind (what else) for my shortness of breath, we finally reach the lovely peat bog at the crest of the hill. Briefly consider a visit to the very top then unanimously agree to descend towards that green path - which turns out to be yet another bog. We scramble, jump and dither down the slightly less steep side of the hill. The views across to all of the beaches of the west coast make up for the wet, heathery, slippy descent.
We find a sheltered spot for the final coffee of the day but the light is too flat for a decent photo.
We then spend some time searching for the track back to the car and encounter the most unusual method of crossing a fence to date. Stand on the conveniently placed rock, hoist one leg over the fence while gripping the carefully wrapped (in a tesco bag) barbed wire then use the second handhold, similarly wrapped until you land safely on the other side. Easy if you're six foot; slightly amusing if you are only just a little over five foot.
Still we make it and enjoy the gentle stroll back along the estuary banks to the car.
All in all, a fine days walking with not one drop of rain. We were out for almost six hours.
Some details of plots were emailed yesterday so we drive almost to the end of "our" road for a quick viewing. An interesting three point turn then back to the house for a well earned supper.

Final photo for today, taken by me at one of the three beaches this morning. The uninhabited island of Pabbay in the background.

A beach too far

2011-04-06T19:10:00.000+01:00

Sunset from the lounge

Those colours were simply stunning; yesterday's late upload justfied by the sunset that arrived suddenly and with no warning. Camera gear packed away, lights on etc so a rush around to get everything set up. Worth it I think.
This next photo was taken after it was dark - I have no idea what light was reflecting in the water as there's no moon to speak of.

Today's heavy rain arrived as promised so we loaded up our lunch on the basis that we were travelling to a remote part of North Harris and it was entirely likely that there would be no facilities - how right we were.
So we travelled north past Tarbert then left towards Huisinis beach which is highly recommended and is at the end of the road. There is also a house plot close to the beach. The waterfalls beside the road and tumbling from every hillside made the drive worth it on their own.
This road is very definitely single track with plenty of passing places. It crosses two mountains and goes around a sea loch. It is quite exciting and we bet that the views would be glorious on a clear day. We pass the school at Cliamsol which is bordered by two raging torrents and is the size of two garden sheds. We have no idea where the pupils come from as there is absolutely no habitation for miles.
On we go then suddenly we arrive in the grounds of a castle - the road goes through the grounds, around the building almost in the front door then out the other side. There is a river beside the road into the castle which must provide as much salmon as you could eat (we later look it up on the internet and it appears you can drive in, sail or land your helicopter here; they run outdoor courses, fishing, corporate team building etc - if only I'd known!) An old Bentley with a personal numberplate sits outside; how to drive that car on these roads? and where do you go to get it serviced?? On we go, past the castle's employees cottages and also past the house where the people that own this house live. On and on, difficult to believe this is only 16 miles from Tarbert. Finally we spy the beach and it is truly beautiful although we don't venture out because of the driving rain and howling wind. We share the carpark with a council truck; inhabitants on their break. There are three or four houses at the end of the track but this is under a good 12 inches of sand so we don't attempt it - even in a landrover; imagine the phone call to the rental firm.
We decide that however beautiful the views from the plot it is a little too remote even for Gary and turn it round to drive back. If anything, the rain gets heavier but we do meet three cars and a determined dog walker complete with soggy dog.
Fill up with fuel on the way back - you don't want to know the price of a litre up here, it makes you sweat!
Back south of Tarbert and we turn onto the golden road which twists and turns with passing places along the east coast. Somewhat bizzarely the local school bus and coach firm is based here.
We check out two house sites along this road, one of which Gary has noted as a "big croft with permission" None the wiser we drive on.
When we get back to the beaches on the west coast, we cannot resist the temptation of a walk along the sand to the headland. We are the only people to leave footsteps on the beach today - not sure what that says about us or anyone else. Pick up a couple of pebbles for my collection. Arrive back at the car exhiliarated, wet and cool. Coffee at the ready along with cake from the Co-op.
Back to the house via the Co-op for top up supplies. Gary has a very long chat with Alan of the chickens about land prices, houses for sale and the world in general. He (Alan) says that the road to Huisinis is one where one good turn deserves another! Imagine a man who lives in one of the most remote places in the UK thinking that anywhere else was more inaccesible. Alan promises to have some answers by tomorrow! He also lets slip that one of his sons is a joiner, the other a civil engineer and of course he paints exteriors.
Two photos from the last coffee stop. Too wet to get the cameras out earlier in the day.

looking back to the headland we walked to.

Taransay re-emrges from the cloud cover

Ziggy Stardust by Bowie on the ipod; sun shining in my eyes now; bodes well for tomorrow.
Have just checked out the ferry prices to go to Berneray and North Uist tomorrow or Friday. Will depend on the weather (of course) and the wallet!
It would be a shame to be this close and not visit but we shall see.

A walk, a church and a closed hotel

2011-04-05T20:49:00.000+01:00

Today yesterday's plan became reality.
Up at a reasonable time, Gary ate the fresh eggs, backpacks were packed and we were off on foot from the door. Bumped into a couple who were in the ferry queue just behind us on Saturday who are staying up the road. Met them again on the way home. We were the only walkers out today.
We headed east to the very end of the road with great views to Benbecula and North Uist across the Sound of Harris. It was, you've guessed it, a little breezy. So breezy in fact that all zippers were zipped tight and we were extremely grateful to whoever invented Windstopper material.
Off the road to follow the track to Rodel which boasted an old church, PCs and a hotel according to the map.
We took the high track; how brave were we in the face of the wind? and eventually arrived at the road that circles the church and hotel.
We visited the church which was empty of everything but information boards; plenty of detail about the history of the Macleods and Morisons who were involved with the church. Many ancient headstones in remarkably good condition.
Inside the church was a dark passageway leading to steps up into the tower. No notices saying take care, nothing barring the way to a crumbling and steep stairwell just the dark, the wet stones and a little bit of claustrophobia. "We could return with head torches, then I would definitely take a look" Elf and safety would have a fit if this was anywhere on the mainland. Here, you are trusted to make the right decisions or live with the consequences.
We carried on to a small headland we had spotted earlier. En route Gary suggested we stop and shelter from a particularly haevy shower.... until we realised that the shower was in fact a stream pouring over the cliff edge and being blown back up the hill vertically where it got us very wet.
Onwards to a relatively sheltered spot where we managed a few shots with the cameras and a quick cup of coffee.
Full waterproofs now required as the rain arrived.
Tested the PCs on the way to the small harbour; they are a community resource and are the only toilets I have ever visited with a visitors book, the caretaker's phone number and a small glass pot for donations (this was pretty full too) Very nice and a welcome shelter from the wind.
The hotel looked pretty grim and turned out to be closed although there was some evidence (white van man) of them getting ready for the season.
So back we trod on the low path, which was just as well as I was almost blown off my feet on several occasions. By this time we were both wearing every piece of kit we had taken with us. Buttoned up to the chin, hats and hoods, gloves and waterproof trousers.
The walk back was otherwise uneventful and we were pleased to see the house waiting for us.
More eggs and a conversation with Alan the owner of the chickens. He also has sheep and is involved in lambing at the moment - twins born this morning with 25 ewes to go. It turns out he hates the rain as it gets in the way of his painting business (exteriors) oh and he also drives the school bus but they are on Easter holidays at the moment so no work until next Monday. Makes us feel rather laid back.
Anyway, two more eggs are handed over with a "you're welcome"
Sound track this afternoon is Aja by Steeley Dan and for this evening's listening pleasure Never a dull moment by Rod Stewart (scottish connection there)
The sun has peeped out for setting but the cloud is low and the hills have no head or shoulders visible. The wind has eased to a geniune breeze and no rain for a moment. Breaking news, the sunset colours are magnificent setting us off on a scramble for cameras etc. You will have to wait until tomorrow to see if it was worth it. The reflections are amazing.
The legs feel as if they have done some work today - rewarded by a hearty dinner.
Till tomorrow, which promises more white beaches, a trip along the golden road on the East coast and sussing out a few more possible plots of land.

On a clear day you would be able to see Skye in the distance

Somewhere in the mist is North Uist

One of the calmest and driest spots today even if only briefly.

Have uploaded the best of today's photos, taken when there was a break in the weather.

Light rain (of the Outer Hebrides type)

2011-04-04T19:56:00.000+01:00

Transition from Harris to Lewis. The lovely road winding into the distance.

The BBC weather forecast promied light rain so we planned accordingly.
The night was interrupted by the need to negotiate the steep stairs to visit the bathroom which lights up with runway lights if you hit the right switch. Result, all inhabitants wide awake at 0230; read our books for a while then drifted back to sleep. A slightly later start to the day!
Our first impression of Hebridean light rain - heavy mist-like droplets swept horizontally across the bay. What the BBC failed to mention was the accompanying 30mph wind. A bit of a theme going on here. The daffs in the garden were touching the ground and the chickens took one look outside and refused to play.
So the plan for today is to drive the length of the island, see what Stornaway has to offer and take a look at a few potential sites on the way. We take the laptop with all the estate agents "windows" open so we can view the details and directions as we go. It may look a bot odd but it works. We head off and discover that the road the other side of Tarbert is a veritable highway with two lanes all the way. There is a distinct difference in the terrain between the two islands (which are really one land mass) We leave the hills and rocks of Harris and drive through some of the most desolate peat bog and moorland this side of Devon. Plenty of lochs, sea lochs and mini-lochs. One of today's few photos (above) shows the transition from one "island" to the other.
Have just been interrupted by Alan, a kind neighbour, offering us a couple of truly free range eggs. Guess what Gary will be having for breakfast tomorrow?
The"light rain" continues with a vengeance all of the 45 miles to Stornaway - which turns out to be just like anytown UK. A huge co-op superstore, suburbs and traffic control. We don't like it, so top up on supplies and follow the road north to the end of a peninsula where there is a likely sounding site. It overlooks a wide sandy bay but is so narrow that any house built would have to be facing the hill rather than the view which seems pointless.
We head back down the road towards South Harris; thi is the equivalent to driving from Plymouth to Exeter or Taunton to Bristol but takes a fair bit longer. We spot a couple of cyclists including one tandem and consider their madness from the smug warmth of the car.
Take a slight detour to see a plot just off the road close to a sea loch but after negotiating the one in four road, intersting bends and narrow "village" road decide this would be quite dark during the long winter months and escape might be difficult in the snow or ice.
Back on the Leverburgh road and we have to stop again for photos of the beaches in a very different mood from yesterday Have uploaded a couple just because we can.
It's only when we arrive back at the house that we realise the wind has dropped to a level where screaming isn't required to be heard.
Unpack the very messy car and head back into warmth and comfort for dinner.
Tonights playlist:10cc, ZZ top, Thin Lizzy, Andy Williams, Shania Twain ... Julie says no to Saxon, Whitesnake and Iron Maiden - no taste?

A glimpse of the sun

You can see why we just had to stop

The photographer photographed

We decide that tomorrow will be a walk from the door day although whether we will be able to resist the lure of the beaches remains to be seen.

There's windy and There's Harris windy

2011-04-03T17:31:00.000+01:00

Planned to have a lazy start to the day but ...... bright blue skies and sun meant awake by 0700 and a long lazy breakfast then couldn't resist the lure of the beaches.
Headed out to Luskentyre where the sand stretches forever and around the headland. Drove to a small, neat carpark and ventured onto the beach. As we turned the corner, felt the full force of the wind and got sandblasted for our troubles. Made it to the waters edge where we took some great, if a bit wobbly, photos by sinking the tripod (thanks Jacqueline) into the sand.
Decided you could have too much of a Harris wind and drove back to Scarista beach (there is a plot of land for sale close to here) where access was easier but the wind followed us. Down to the water again and more photos; failed to really notice the huge black clouds bearing down on us so in addition to the sand that had found its way everywhere and into everything we got very wet very quickly. Coffee and cookies in the car soon put us right and we were off to yet another lookout where we parked up and watched the waves breaking with a vengance over rocky outcrops. The photos will give you some idea but you really had to be there.
It being a Sunday, there's not much going on locally except for attendance at the numerous churches in Sunday suits and finery (the locals that is, not us) It does mean the roads are even quieter if that's possible. I have just noticed the ferry from North Uist arriving so the ferries do sail on a Sunday.

Scarista beach; very long with white sands.

Taransay in the distance; storm heading our way.

Finally retreated back to Blacksheep House where we unloaded half of the beach and a fair amount of peat from my feet.
Now watching the storm clouds interspersed with sunny weather and some heavy rain showers in the distance. Gary has put together a stunning playlist especially for the holiday; currently listening to Kaylee by Marillion - remember them? Next track is Echo Beach, how appropriate! Planning to walk to the end of the track later, especially if it looks like being a decent sunset. You may get to see that as part of tomorrow's upload.
Have messaged a few people to say that we have absolutely no mobile signal on this part of Harris; however we are able to pick up and reply to emails thanks to good wifi in the house.
Now, what bottle of wine shall we open for tonight???
Signing off now.

HARRIS !

2011-04-02T18:42:00.000+01:00

Over the sea to Harris - breakfast eaten in the queue for the ferry. The clouds are clearing, still windy but bits of blue sky in the distance. We leave exactly on time - top deck for photos, wrapped up in heavy coats, hats and gloves. We seem to eat up the distance and the island of Harris hoves into view. Photo of first view attached for your delight and jealousy. How beautiful is that?? Off the ferry and hit the single track road (with passing places) for the 22 miles to Leverburgh close to where we are staying. Only we have to stop at white sand beaches, viewpoints, parking places and many other spots to take in the views. These are of a turquoise sea, crashing white waves, brilliant white beaches and mountains behind. I also saw Taransay for the first time in the flesh - another top ten ambition realised. Another photo attached for you. So we visit the (vast?) new Co-op we had been promised in Leverburgh - this has the best view of any car park I've ever been in, a fuel pump that you use then wander in to pay for and just about any item of food and hardware you can think of. (except for sausages) We stock up.And move on a mile down the coast road for our first sneaky pre-view of black sheep house where we will be staying this week. Initial impression is "where are the sea views" and "but there are neighbours". We find a place to eat our lunch then head off for an interesting drive on even smaller single track roads before we can reasonably present ourselves at the door and check in. The minute we do, all initial impressions are blown away. This is a Grand Designs winner and it is almost beyond description. The wrap around windows look directly out onto a tidal creek unobstructed. I have included a photo (gary is behind the window somewhere) The owners make us very welcome and show us around. This will be the only time we have ever slept on a platform above the lounge with no need to get out of bed really - just enjoy the views. We can see across the Sound of Harris to North Uist. The colours change all the time and the tide sneaks back in changing the view again.
So settled in, glass of wine in hand, Pink Floyd on the Ipod, dinner menu decided and all that is left to do is enjoy the absolute peace and quiet. Sheep, seabirds and the ubiquitous chickens are our only visible companions. Watching the ferry come in from North Uist; we plan to take that trip later this week. Signing off now, very content and relaxed.

Wet wet wet .......

2011-04-01T20:51:00.000+01:00

We start the day with a fine scottish breakfast then head out into the rain and wind.
The lower road is up the hill and higher milovaig is lower down - luckily Brian spots us and we follow him to the site. The road is a loop so difficult to get really lost. Having negotiated the bin lorry and found a place to park we step past the goats and into the mud to admire the size of plot C with a view to plot B. Steep ground but plot B will be accessed via the lower road. If we were interested in both plots, the seller would throw in the piece of neutral land that seperates the two. We decide to leave all conversation until we are inside the property we are going to view. Turns out to be a sensible move. Take a quick look at Mairi's cottage but it is too small but we do spend a useful hour or so listening to local knowledge and developing some understanding of crofting law.
Brian heads back to Portree, we decide to take a look at Dunvegan - proves to have a free car park where we sit and listen to the rain and wind and ponder the sites we have just seen.
Drive to Portree via the pretty coast road which introduces us to more areas where we could live. Decide to have an early dinner at the Stein Inn on the Waternish peninsula. What a road and what views and what plots might be available? We like it here too.
It is so windy and raining so hard that the window seats in the pub are wet because of the rain being blown through the inches thick walls. So we sit near the fire and order a fine dinner.
Now back at Carters Rest, re-searching websites. An early start for the ferry tomorrow and they have provided us with a fantastic packed breakfast so we can avoid the ferry food.
And .... it has almost stopped raining! Still blowing a hoolie.
No photos today as too wet. watch out for ferry photos tomorrow and first view of Harris,

Meetings, plans and designs

2011-03-31T18:03:00.000+01:00

First photo is view from Portree; the dots are birds
Next is view from the road to Dunvegan - can't be more specific.

We are now firmly ensconsed in room 1 at Carters Rest which we found at the second attempt after a small error in trying to remember the directions. (DON'T take the left hand turning as it is a dead end)
Anyway this is a welcoming B&B in a beautiful location; you can see the sea from the bathroom - or at least Gary can. There are chickens outside and it is liscensed. What more could we want?
So we have met with Dualchas architects - very impressed with knowledge and enthusiasm; met with Skye Homes, again expert in their field and very helpful. Also picked up some detail about planning permissions on a few plots we might be interested in.
The rain has blown away to the west, the clouds are white and fluffy and the sky is a deep blue. Have been out of contact for much of the day as we were driving through what we asumed to be mountains through the driving rain and cloud cover. Waterfalls to die for but too wet to take a single photo. Did I mention we drove through a rainbow near Kintail??
We will be keeping our eyes open for likely plots, ruins and shacks as we travel around north west Skye tomorrow. Are also seeing two plots just down the road and a cottage in Ose with unobstructed views of the sea - we stopped on our way here for a sneaky pre-view.
The only decision needed for now is jacuzzi bath or power shower? Then dinner, wine and early to bed ready for tomorrow.
Loving it so far - have uploaded a couple of photos of Skye we managed to take today for your viewing pleasure.

Strathfillan.....

2011-03-30T17:54:00.000+01:00

Flight from Exeter to Glasgow on time. Picked up nice new Land Rover from hire garage. Now in Strarhfilan which is about 3 hours drive from Skye. Cannot wait to see what the archectects have to say. Meeting with 2 tomorrow. Off out for an early dinner ready for early start tomorrow.
In case you're wondering - yes it's raining but we have seen some blue sky and there is still snow on the mountains.
In case you're passing Tyndrum in the future, we can recommend the Green Welly Shop for good food, clothes, shoes (of course) and plenty more.
Nice comfortable B&B, quiet spot with a view of the mountains.
Ready for whatever tomorrow has to temp us with. (apologies for ending the sentence with a preposition)

Half packed and raring to go

2011-03-28T20:03:00.000+01:00

Bag packed for Harris with our walking gear safely stowed away. We have the maps, books of walks (thanks Marie) and no firm idea of where and what we are going to do on our "relaxing" week.
Just the washing to do (note nothing needs ironing) and pack bag number two with the remainder of our clothes. We are trying to travel as light as possible.
We will be viewing one house, several plots and visiting two architects / builders on Thursday and Friday. Good job we have dinner already booked for Thursday evening at Carters Rest. Friday food will be a bit more ad hoc and will depend on where we find ourselves when hunger strikes.
One final view on-line before we head off to the reality. It still looks as good as it did last week and yesterday.
Have you seen the weather forecast for the end of the week?- anyone who knows us and our holiday destinations will be expecting at least some rain and wind!

6 days and counting

2011-03-23T19:07:00.000Z

Itinerary printed and checked; saved in date order for easy reference.
Lists being written; appointments made with agents and two companies.
Hebridean Contemporary Homes ( http://www.hebrideanhomes.com/ ) and Skye Homes
( http://www.skyehomes.co.uk/ ) on 31 March;
ReMax on 1 April (no comment necessary!)
Dinner booked for 31 March at Carters Rest - always need to keep an eye on the next meal - this looks like a wonderful place to stay. ( http://www.cartersrestskye.co.uk/ )
Pictures to follow once we are checked in.
This time next week we will be in Tyndrum for our overnight stop en route to the islands.

Trip approaching fast

2011-03-13T20:46:00.000Z

Just over two weeks to go before we head north.
Information, property for sale info and plans arriving, getting sorted and ordered for meetings / viewings.
We have accommodation booked across Scotland and Skye.
Then we head to Harris for a week - hoping to visit Taransay and Lewis too.
Lists to be written, itinerary to be compiled, appointments to be made and off we go.
Fingers crossed for good weather - at least for the flights and ferries.
Meanwhile winding down at work in preparation for disappearing.
Can't wait!

first post

2011-03-08T17:34:00.000Z

Here we are at the beginning of who knows what?
Plane tickets booked, web sites scoured and ready for the adventure that is our future.
We will be keeping a travel and experience diary over the next few weeks - leading to a decision about where and how we will live.
Your comments and thoughts are welcome.