One year on

One year ago we were finishing packing ready for the big move to our new life on Skye.

From this ........

To this

Nicely silvered larch cladding, shed, tarmac, veg patch (experimental), compost bins, log store and chain sawing area, our new car and a few less trees. All outside work done using materials from the croft wherever possible.   

It's been an interesting year where we have learned a lot about the island, the local community, the weather (!) and ourselves. 

I have finally given up the world of work and we are living a very different life. As with any change there have been positives and negatives. 

The smiles far outweigh the downturned faces so it's a big thumbs up to Skye Living.

Things we have learnt:

• Skye is a very windy island -except when you need a breeze to deter the midges when it is resolutely calm
• We can cope with power outages (heat, light, food) which is just as well as they are still a regular feature of island life
• Drive with potholes in mind at all times. Even if you think you know where they are, the new ones that spring up overnight will get you and NEVER drive through a puddle at any speed as this is where they lurk
• Visitors to the island will stop their vehicle with no warning and without seeking a layby as the scenery is so gorgeous they must have a photo now
• Do not expect fast service, responses or deliveries but accept that the slower pace goes with living here and adapt. Delivery drivers get to know you and will leave your goods where you can find them without waiting for a signature.
• The internet is an essential part of life here. Living without a phone line for 2 months was purgatory
• Mobile phone signals will disappear at the first hint of bad weather and will not return until it warms up/calms down. Mobile phone companies think this is OK and not their fault
• Always keep an "Inverness" list on the go. It's a long way if you forget something
• The local community welcome you and you can become as involved as you wish. Either end of the spectrum is fine

 Biggest changes:-

From this (high heeled designer shoes for work) 

To this - Designer wellies plus wellie socks

And this - Boots, waterproof shoes, walking boots & many pairs of slippers!

Positives: 

• No more Monday mornings when work beckons
• Wouldn't change much about the house design (more electrical sockets the only thing)
• We can choose exactly what we do and when we do it
• RHI payment based on the air source heat pump
• The views and the light are constantly changing - all of them beautiful
• We survived "the worse winter in ten years" with only minor damage
• Crofting (our version) is much fun and good exercise
• The local community hall holds pilates sessions and the 20 minute walk to get there is glorious
• Clear skies and beautiful starry nights. No light pollution
• No cameras tracking your every move
• We are ten minutes from the Cuillin range, the most notorious, beautiful and toughest mountains in the UK

 Negatives:  

• The delivery charges added by some retailers / suppliers is shocking. We have a bridge! Pick and choose your retailer - John Lewis, Whittards, Amazon and Sunday Times wine club all deliver free, if they can do it so can others.
• Distance from friends and family - although visits to and from do take place and we did know this when we decided to move here. 
• No sight of the aurora here in Fernilea (yet)

So we are settled, happy and looking forward to the future on Skye. 

 

Dreams can come true - you just have to believe and put in the effort!

February - the redeemer!

The first week of February was payback for the first three weeks in January. 

But first..... we had an appointment in Inverness. The car needed a service and we found a good deal in a nice hotel. The forecast for later in the week was snow, more snow and high winds. But the car was booked in and we had four wheel drive plus our essential winter kit in the boot. So off we went to the big city for our city break. 

Stayed at the Kingsmills Hotel which was very nice. Decent rooms, pool etc, good food and located within easy reach of the centre.  Headed off to drop the car in slight snow then offered a lift into town. The car has done us well over the last four years but we have been considering replacing it........ asked the nice man to take a look and see what he could offer as a trade in. NB: At this point we had absolutely no intention of buying a new car. Had a pleasant morning shopping then walked back through heavy snow showers to the car showroom.  

Well, it was just too good a deal to refuse. It was the end of January after all. Deal done and the next day we swapped the old Mitzi for a newer model. Woke up to this view from our room:

Fair bit of snow overnight - and this was the City

!

Once we had completed the paperwork, moved all the kit and purchases from one car to another and done a bit more shopping, we were on our way. Decided to take the road around Loch Ness and through Glen Shiel after checking the traffic cameras as this looked the least snowy. A good test for the new car. There was a fair covering of snow on the roads but the ploughs had been out and traffic was moving. We had packed a flask just in case and it seemed a shame to waste it so we stopped close to the Glen Shiel battle site and enjoyed a cuppa and a glorious view. The deer were down to road level so it must have been bad in the hills. 

Cool with six inches of snow. We parked where Gary is standing on the way up.

Nice viewpoint. The dots on the hillock across the road are deer and stags.

The next day we heard that the road around Loch Ness had been closed due to rockfall, other routes were closed due to snow. Once again we got lucky with the weather window.

For the next few days, it snowed on and off. Heavy showers and the occasional glimpse of blue skies. The house, croft and views transformed. We found we could use the drive OK even in the snow.

View across Loch Harport

House with cornices

Shed, complete with newly crafted storage compartments

Then, the first Sunday in February dawned bright and clear. All other plans were cancelled - we were heading for the hills. Assuming we could exit the drive and get down the hill! No problem; the plan was to walk from the Slig up to the bealach above Glen Brittle. Off we went up a path still visible under its coating of snow,. As we got higher, the snow got deeper and progress slowed. Stopped at the waterfall for coffee and photos. Snow was at least a foot deep here.

Glamaig from the waterfall

Pinnacle Ridge from the waterfall

The waterfall - partly frozen

After coffee, we carried on up. We were following some foot prints which were handy as it started to snow hard as we gained height. We then met the owners of the footprints who had lost the path higher up and turned around due to the poor visibility. As we hit the bealach, the sky suddenly lightened, the snow stopped and this happened:

Glamaig again

Ahhh

Towards Bruach na Frith

The light catching the water was simply beautiful

Here we sat and enjoyed our lunch just soaking in the views, no wind and just a hint of warmth in the sun. Glorious. A Japanese tourist wandered past and asked if he was on the right path for the Fairy Pools. Confirmed he was and how far to go (and get back again). Undeterred he set off across the pathless hill.  Intrepid we decided and maybe a wee bit foolish; at least he was carrying something in his backpack although probably not a map or warm clothing.
We decided to head back down ourselves and made it to the car for around 16.00. What a day and what conditions. You really don't need to climb the heights to enjoy the Cuillin. Celebrated with a bottle of ice cold white wine - February well and truly arrived.

The week continued in the same vein and we managed a walk down Glen Sligachan. This was plan B after we experienced a tricky road down into Glen Brittle so turned around. Would not have been good to get the new car stuck or rolled. The path through the Glen was frozen but easy walking. Had our lunch up the slope of Marsco (on the list for better weather days) and realised just how out of condition we were for steep inclines. 

Later that week we experienced one of the most amazing sunrises in ages. Photos are from the bedroom window as it was much too cold to venture outside!

 

Amazing colours & alien craft shaped clouds

The snow levels rose throughout the week and the road to Glen Brittle was viable again. So on Saturday we headed for the Coire Lagan round.  Did this clockwise today with the road section first. Limited snow until we reached the partially frozen lochan when the path regularly disappeared and every stream and burn became an obstacle course. The only way to get over the largest burn was to spread-eagle yourself over the snow to spread the weight and hope you didn't fall through a snow covered hole to the water below. Such fun. Finally left the water features behind and found ourselves in deep snow threading through rocks and grass. A few footprints but not many. Spotted a convenient rock for shelter (from the wind that wasn't forecast and wasn't blowing at home) and slid and slithered down to it through deep snowdrifts. As we finished eating we heard then saw two more walkers. It turned out to be Neil and Sandy, Chippie and Foreman on our build. They were heading up into the Coire proper; we decided to head back down. Several more drifts to negotiate but we made it back to the car in good time. 

Coire Lagan as we've never seen it

So that was the first week in February. Unfortunately, the next few days were dreich and dull in the extreme although warmer than expected. 

On the croft we have finished the raised bed - and filled it two thirds with earth and compost, finished the path to the compost bins, topped up the log store with our own logs, moved some of the felled trees and scavenged some more rope to make a handrail for the steps Gary made last autumn. Between all of that activity and the walking we are feeling fitter, quite tired and have various aches and bruises to show for our efforts.  

 

The seed potatoes (1st earlies) are in the cold frame and we have decided what we will be growing and where. Now we must be patient and wait for the soil to warm up before we even consider planting out. Plenty more tasks on the list in the meantime.  

2015 arrives with a bang

A quiet Hogmany evening where we find that celebrations on Skye are as low key as those in Alloa. I'm sure there was partying somewhere but not in Fernilea or Carbost. Not a firework to be seen. Toasted the new year with a little champagne; literally as our "bargain" from Tesco turned out to be half a bottle. If something looks too good to be true, it usually is!

2015 announced itself on the 1 January with the first of two weeks of storms. Highest gust registered as 50mph which was something of a record in itself. The next two weeks continued in the same vein with Atlantic storm after Atlantic storm. However the dire warnings were building up for the 8/9th January with weather amateurs and professionals alike watching carefully. 

The forecast winds were to arrive during the evening and continue overnight. Around 9.30 on the 8th January we could hear the wind rising. As the evening went on, the noise was unbelievable. Kept a close eye on the Shulista weather station as they are much more exposed than we are here. Just before midnight and also just after midnight the weather station here registered a gust of 63.3mph. In Shulista the record was 109.6mph just before his station went off line. This will forever be the baseline for any other storm. The house shook and shuddered; the glass flexed; the wind blew down the chimney and stones from the croft were whipped against the patio doors and the windows. The electricity flickered a few times but remained on as did the internet. In the early hours (little sleep was had that night) a nasty splintering sound was heard but going outside to check out what had made it was impossible. 

The next morning a damage report saw one windowsill ripped off (and quickly repaired) One cold frame deposited in bits further down the croft; the lid of the recently completed compost bin ripped off (retrieved and repaired) and bird feeders scattered and broken. The roof, walls and expanses of glass all intact with no damage to report as was our sturdy shed. 

Lost power on the afternoon of the 9th and tested the wood burner's capabilities to discover that we can boil water or heat food and we do keep warm and toasty. The torches worked well too and candlelight is lovely. The bridge was closed, ferries cancelled and the island was effectively locked down. The SSE workers repaired the power lines in atrocious conditions and although we has some intermittent faults over the next few days, most had power restored within 12 hours.

So we survived and learnt a few things about the house and our own resilience. I would be quite happy never to experience an event like this again but.... we live on the western isles and can expect many such storms in the future. The vast majority  of people we spoke to said that the last time winds had been so high was more than 10 years ago. Til 2025 then.  Of course, there's always one or two who say it was much worse in whatever year it was too.  

So January, as always, was a dry one for us. I see that many are now taking the same route. February 1st is on a Sunday so the weekend "rules" will be extended for that one. It's a good feeling and I'm sure it does the system good.

Like many in Britain, we can be obsessed with the weather and have had fun setting up and reporting from the weather station on the croft. After the December storm, the weather station has been "tethered" by three huge logs and it has developed a definite list off the vertical. Living here, the weather plays such an important part of what is possible on a daily basis. Food deliveries, the post, leaving the island, travel generally plus the things most of us take for granted like internet and power. The differences in weather in just a few miles on the island can bemuse and confuse but that's part of what makes it so enjoyable.

So life goes on; work on the croft continues when we can get out there safely and without sinking in inches of mud. Many of the trees have splintered and branches fallen but none of the big ones have blown down.  I have searched all files but there are no photos from the first three weeks of January as it was simply too dreich / dangerous / wild to get out. 

The storms that continued into the following week delivered snow and blizzards so I have attached another short video that shows the force of the snow and the newly built compost bins, including the one that lost its lid.

Next updates will include an "interesting" city break in Inverness and the best beginning to a February that I can remember for some years. Plus plenty of gorgeous images of an island awakening and Scotland at its winter's best.

The BIG (December) STORM

Qualified the title to identify December as I'm not sure that winter has finished with us just yet!
An accurate prophesy - writing this at the end of a stormy week that will forever be the benchmark comparator for exciting / scary weather. However, back to December.

So early warnings of a "weather bomb" hitting the UK with the north and west of Scotland feeling the leading edge. Forecast warned of three days of battering. 

Monday 8 December was dry, bright and calm so we made the most of this and worked on the croft. Enhanced and improved a watercourse, cut down some more dead wood and generally tidied up. As darkness fell we wandered the croft, making sure everything was battened down and shutting away anything that was littering the ground and / or could take flight. 

Tuesday dawned wild and windy and delivered almost 2 inches of rain. A starter for 10. It was recycling day - no sooner had the bin been dragged to the top of the drive than it had been blown over and distributed its contents everywhere. A quick collection from the mud and a nifty bit of work with a bungy cord or two made it secure. It was laid down for the bin men to pick up. During the day we gained a lovely green box from somewhere. The work done on the watercourse yesterday paid off and the house was surrounded by the sound of water flowing - safely away from us. 

Wednesday was forecast to be the worst day of the storm and we were woken by gale and severe gale force winds overnight. Accompanied by thunder, lightening and torrential showers of rain. The highest gust of wind recorded here was 50.1; further north on the island a fellow weather enthusiast recorded a gust of 91.9mph before he lost his anemometer and soon after his broadband as a result of a lightening strike. This was a day for staying firmly indoors, which is what we did. The Skye bridge was open, closed, open on and off all day. Ferries cancelled and roads dangerous due to gusting winds. Our own internet was on and off all day - particularly sensitive to rain and wind combined it seems. Towards evening, wind and rain eased back. So far, the power has only flickered off briefly then back on. Seems the work done earlier in the year to improve resilience of the network had worked. 

A brief video clip (via mobile phone) designed to try and demonstrate the force of the wind (Wednesday) Shows our newest indicator of wind speed, the washing line with easy to measure horizontal drift.

Another restless night followed with winds gusting to over 40mph. That last was so easy to write but difficult to describe the sounds of the building creaking, groaning, rattling and how you could hear the gusts building up before they hit. A roar like an express train or plane and Brace! 
The house survived without noticeable effect which was pleasing considering all that glass and wood.

Thursday, back to normal service by mid-afternoon. Winds abated, rain stopped and recommence the build up to the Christmas break. 

Some damage to report across the island and the highlands but nothing major, Pretty much as you were. Our only noticeable damage was to the bird feeders which took flight but were recovered. 

As stated above, there was far, far worse to come. Little did we know!
Details to follow...........

Late autumn tales

Early November and we were away on a trip to Devon, returning via Wales. Stopped over in the Lake District for two nights en-route, in a holiday village type complex with apartments rather than hotel rooms. The final two hours of the journey were in the dark, howling winds and heavy rain so our reaction when being told that meals were not available was as you can probably;y imagine! Not so polite. However, we followed directions to a very nice pub in Greystoke where we enjoyed a good dinner. The straight but narrow road to and from the pub was spooky with flooded bits and tendrils of mist lurking in the dips. 
The next day was spend reacquainting ourselves with our favourite Lake District shops and sights. Have to report that some of the shop staff were in decidedly end of season mode - lost our business there then. No excuse for rudeness or a don't care attitude. Cunninghams in Ambleside came up trumps as always and gained our cash as a result. Gaynors and George Fisher might wish to take note that good customer service wins the day and the customer's cash.
The journey to Devon was fine and we were lucky again with the roads. Arrived for dinner - impeccable timing as always. 
Spent three days in Devon catching up with family and friends then dropped mum off in South Wales where she was to enjoy a week's break. The journey up through the Brecons was stunning and we did it while the light was still good. North Wales saw us manage a good walk to a local mountain before the weather caught us up again. Back on the road to home via the Drovers Inn at Ardlui on Loch Lomond and the Outlet Village at Gretna. The Drovers was interesting and very old. Dark rooms, four poster bed, good food, stuffed animals on the walls with a cold en-suite that did not look or feel very inviting. Headed off after a good breakfast the next day and made it home in daylight. 

Regular viewers will recognise the view from our house, now in November light. Beautiful but fleeting.

The remainder of November played the game beautifully. I managed to work my last couple of days and handed over sorted files and folders then put away the computer and ipad and that was me away from the world of work. Scary, exciting, and who knows what the future holds??

Anyway to celebrate the gorgeous display of late autumn weather we visited a couple of favourite spots and found some new ones too.  

A re-visit to the Old Man of Storr. All trees on the approach walk felled and a new track which delivered you to the same boggy gate. Climbed above the Old Man for our lunch spot. Clear blue skies, sunshine and just a little chilly. Always a stunning spot with views back to the Cuillin and across to the mainland. As we were leaving, we noticed the sign suggesting you go no further past this point - oops, already done that! Still no harm done.

Old Man view from lunch spot

Old Man with added person for perspective

We climbed to the base of the pillar after lunch and circumnavigated the rock. Very eroded and exposed in places with rocks that would be slippy when wet. Slithered down the scree back to the path and the car. Very few people out and about. 

Across to the mainland

A few days later we had to visit Portree so decided to explore the Fairy Glen. Not to be confused with the Fairy Pools in Glen Brittle. Took a very small road close to Uig and followed it past a few buildings to the end. Passed a couple of Rabbies buses parked up with their associated tourists spread throughout the glen even this late in November. However they were soon away and we had this weird and wonderful glen to ourselves. Difficult to describe but it is like a miniature Quiraing (somewhere else we have yet to venture) with lumps, bumps, mini ridges, waterfalls and rocky outcrops. 

View from above the rock outcrop Castle Ewen

Several of these rings around. Man-made or natural? This one had a load of money in the centre. Fairy Wishes maybe?

Huge waterfall across the glen. To visit another day.

The lumps and bumps of the Fairy Glen

Castle Ewen from the road - a surprisingly thin and airy ridge and small scramble to the top

Spent a while here exploring then drove to a layby with a view of the ferry port to enjoy pastries and cakes from the bakers in Portree. A lovely morning out and about. Fairy Glen not recommended during high season due to limited parking and number of tour buses. November is fine though. 

Finally, on the day after my last "official" day or working we headed for Talisker Bay to walk on the beach and had the added bonus of one of the most amazing sunsets I have seen. I took over 30 photos that evening as we watched the sun set over the small isles along with half a dozen other people. Including a couple that sat romantically on a blanket on the cold, damp sand and a chap with a metal "peg leg". As we walked back to the car we saw and heard an eagle soaring above the cliffs. Perfect end to a perfect day. 

 

 

What an amazing end to the day and to November. Enjoying it while we can as a BIG storm is forecast for the first week in December. Experiences of that one to follow. 

Meanwhile, while not travelling, working or out exploring, we continue to make headway with the croft. Watercourse excavated and cleared; more steps made, trees felled to make space for new growth and plans made for a super-compost heap and raised beds. We spied the seal close to the shore again and have a robin that accompanies us wherever we are working, probably to eat the worms that surface as we dig but nice to think it is following us. 
One final picture from a still day lochside (we cleared brush, dead wood and branches from the shore that day) Can report that the midgies have all gone for the winter.

A rare still day at low tide.

The croft is starting to take shape but there is loads still to be done.  Future visitors will be handed buckets and tools and directed to a certain spot with instructions. We are staring to make numerous paths through the woodland. ferns dying back now and more bits of the buried car are emerging. Headlight and an indicator fitting being the latest to wash down the burn. 

Tune in later for an account of the BIG STORM the first week in December.

October 2014. Mostly wet

This will be a fairly short post as it rained so much in October that there was a time when we wondered if we would be able to leave the house again - and stay dry. 
Back from Arran and managed to get all of those return from holiday chores done before it started to deteriorate. 
The weather station stats for October read 26 rain days in October. 

We also experienced our all time record gust of wind at 47 mph on 6 October. The tail end of Hurricane something. Happy if that stays the record. Elsewhere on the island there were 70/80 mph gusts so we live in a relatively sheltered spot. However we often head the table in terms of rainfall. Heaviest rainfall in one day in October was 55.8mm. That's more than two inches!!  Stats here:  http://garyburnett.co.uk/php/wxhilowavg.php
The croft needed work, we discover it's a good time to do drainage work when you can see where the water is running. Very wet and muddy work though. 
Digging out anything was tough but we did manage to dig over the veg patch a couple of times. 
Also dug out the two burns on either side of the plot. One now pours over a rocky lip in a pleasing waterfall and the other winds through trees and reeds to disappear somewhere through the trees. We intend to search out its route and dig it out properly. The waterfall across the loch, always a good indicator of water levels, roared for days and weeks. 

Designated certain clothing as "crofting" clothing as anything worn out there was destined to become and stay muddy and grubby with fetching holes in interesting places. Duct tape tastefully applied as required. Wellies and wellie socks are the order of the day. Plus waterproof coverings of body and legs. Heads often just get wet. 

On one of the few clear days we re-visited the Coral Beaches, north of Dunvegan. The day we visited was a bright blue day and we could have been in the Caribbean the "sand" was white and the water a sparkling blue, It was Scottish half term so there were plenty of people out and about.  We sat on rocks and had our lunch looking across to Waternish and the Stein Inn. Walked back along the shoreline looking for driftwood for a future crafty project. 

Also revisited Coire Lagan and enjoyed a good scramble plus an explore of the coire proper including the base of the great stone chute. Looking for a route to the ridge. Probably not via this scree though! 

An Stac screes. Inn Pinn hidden at the top of the ridge to the left.

Views out to sea were glorious. 

Looks a bit like an infinity pool but it's the lochan in the coire with views to Rum.

Heard then watched a trio of Glaswegians descend the great stone chute returning from Sgurr Alasdair, Skye's highest Munro. Spoke to them on their way down - they had camped out the previous night (!) and were heading back to the big city that evening. Felt exhausted just listening to their exploits.

I had to travel to Alloa for work during the last week in October. Armed with shopping list (Gary) and accommodation booked for the two nights in Menstrie. A very welcoming hotel, good food and we had a huge room up in the turret.  I was finally handing over to my replacement in Clacks. Did a lot of talking over the two days, caught up with a few people then headed back to Skye in the dark, wind and rain. Sound familiar?   

Friends stayed during the last week in October. Yes it rained but we managed to get out and about with a nice lunch at The Stein Inn (limited menu and seemed surprised to be so busy) 

We did have a couple of calm, clear days. The view across the loch is ever changing and the autumn light can be wonderful. 

View from house after the storm

Same view lochside later in the month on a calm day

So a quick October report but a much more interesting tale of November to follow. A trip south and west to visit family and friends. Visits to north Skye and my final day at work finally arrived. Plus, pilates rediscovered, a craft fair or two and some mild and sunny weather in compensation for the above. 

From an island to an island

A week on Arran.
Worked it out that between visits to the plot/house, visits to Devon and Wales we haven't had a week's holiday since last September when we visited Assynt. Time to put that right.

So to Arran it was and off we went on the Friday to Largs, expecting to be held up in numerous roadworks with convoy systems in place. Except, it didn't happen and we drove through the highlands with only minor delays arriving in Largs around 17.30. Found the hotel then time for a stroll along the Promenade before dinner. Largs is a bit like Paignton but slightly more upmarket. Our hotel looked a little tired but the room was comfortable, we had a sea view from the en-suite and a view into the neighbours' kitchen from the bedroom. Dinner was very nice and very reasonably priced. A good start to the week. 

We had time to kill on the Saturday, being booked on the 15.15 ferry crossing. Took advantage of the later breakfast and checkout then did our holiday food shop at Tesco just up the road. Visited Troon - a bit disappointing but found a huge B&Q at Saltcoats which provided a welcome distraction and some retail therapy.The spoils stayed in the car boot for the next week - replacement doormats and seed trays. We were still amongst the first in the ferry queue. A coach load of young people arrived shortly after us. Decision to stay on the outer deck well founded. We watched just about every young girl from the coach party do the "Titanic" pose as we headed across the Firth of Clyde towards Arran.  The boys just shivered about in their t-shirts. 

First sight of Arran from the ferry. Goatfell clear to see

Turn left at Brodick and drive for 12 miles, 30 minutes (really? Yes the roads are as interesting as on Skye) and you will reach Kildonan where we have booked a house for the week. All in order except no towels anywhere to be seen. A couple of calls later and the key to the linen cupboard arrives along with the housekeeper - unaware that we were staying apparently. At least the house had been cleaned, last week presumably. We have a house very close to the shore with views out to Pladda island and Ailsa Crag. Beautiful blue skies, sunshine and a hotel with good food and a wonderful terrace 10 minutes walk down the road. 

Sunday: Decided to head for the beach at Blackwater Foot and walk to some caves. A day of brilliant sunshine, calm blue seas and quite warm. The September brilliance continues. The walk was on a sandy beach to start with but the challenge soon presented itself as the "path" wound through boulders below a steep cliff. Huge boulders with brambles, nettles and steep and rocky drops between them. Following a party of youths with a spring in their step and no apparent regard for the possibility of ankle breaking terrain, we eventually made it through. 

Walked along the base of this cliff to get to this beach and the caves

Walked across another beach then through head high bracken until we reached the caves. Peered in, dank, dripping and connected through dark tunnels, a quick look was enough for me. You could go through a gate and explore further if you had the inclination but we sat on a conveniently placed log and enjoyed our lunch. 

View across to the mainland at Kintyre (luckily, no song)

Unfortunately the name of the place resulted in Gary singing Blackfoot Sue at every opportunity for the remainder of the week - and playing it incessantly when we got home. It will be forever associated with Arran.


It was flat calm and we enjoyed the warmth of the sun and being beside the sea. Walked back across the cliff tops and the edges of a golf course which was much tamer and easier. An ice cream was in order to finish off the day then it was back to Kildonan for dinner at the hotel and a superb sunset. 

Not the best sunset photo as taken on my phone through a window!

Waling back from the hotel at dusk, we were mesmerised by a moving rock. Not the wine as it turned out but one of a number of seals that frequent the area - more of those later. 

Monday - too good a forecast to waste so it was off to Goatfell. This is the highest point on the island. The start of the walk passes a brewery which we clocked for later. An easy path up through the trees which climbed steadily until it reached open hillside. Goatfell came into view as we reached a bridge where we stopped for coffee.

Coffee stop, Goatfell summit in background

The first of the ferry / bus walkers passed us here. Until then we had only met two other groups. Good views opening up back towards Brodick. 
The next stage of the walk crosses moorland on a good path, still climbing up but relatively easy. We could see the final ridge and summit clearly now. It was another blue sky day although cooler than yesterday. A few wisps of cloud floated in and out just adding to the beauty. The path from Corry met our path and they joined for the final pull to the summit. 

The meeting of the paths with a view across Brodick to Holy Island in the distance

Someone could have warned me that the final third was 1) never ending and 2) surprisingly steep. Winding up through huge boulders with steps way too big for someone with my size legs.

Up we go

 It took much longer than expected but we eventually popped out on the summit to join the crowds of sweaty walkers who had made it. We could see the other Arran hills from here and they were magnificent for such a small island range. Quite ridge-like and scary looking in parts and certainly not a walk in the park.  Lunch,  many drinks and photos then back the way we had come up as the alternative would leave us with a 2 mile road walk back to the car. 
Different photographer / camera for the summit shots:

The descent was OK as it is easier to go down large drops than up. The walking poles helped too. Back at the car then home for dinner. In summary, a hill not to be under-estimated even if it doesn't quite make it to Munro status.   

Tuesday - today we walked the shore close to the house and discovered a path than followed the coast around to the headland. A good walk that brings you up close to what seemed like hundreds of seals. They had hauled themselves out onto the flat rocks and formed banana-like shapes. Signs said the area was a designated "haul out" area and asked that you didn't get too close. They didn't seem phased although there were only a few hardy folk out. Also found a "lost world" type waterfall which would be magnificent after rain. 

Seals and rocks - spot the difference

Waterfall

Got back to the house as it started to rain. A surprisingly nice morning out. Into Brodick for a look around and dinner later. Not a lot to see as it turned out. 

Wednesday - the weather was better than forecast so we decided to walk up north sannox glen and attempt the ridge from here. Shared the first bit of the path with a group of school children who were apparently going to go into the river and walk up against the flow. (Canyoning) The route appeared to cross a fast flowing river and disappear into a bog. Not for us thank you. We carried on up a reasonable path but that also petered out in a river gorge. A good bit of exercise and a good view of the witches gap which has a reputation of being tricky. Could see why. 

River gorge and the Witches Step in the distance

Close up of the Step

Back to the car and we drove north to Lochranza through a wild landscape and steep roads. Ruined castle very nice, heavy swell and waves. A pleasant drive back along the coast road. 

Thursday spent pottering, walking beaches and using binoculars to take a look at a private yacht that has moored in Lamlash Bay. It was huge and included a helipad and helicopter. Found it on the internet and we could either have a house or hire the yacht for a couple of weeks. Sleeps ten, twelve staff.  

Friday was intended to tackle the alternative route to Goatfell and visit a different summit. However, a sharp shower as we parked up changed our minds and we headed up to Lochranza and walked the coast path to the Fairy Dell on the north of the island. Considered the Cock of Arran (look it up) but ended up having lunch at the Fairy Dell then returning by the same path. We saw the most remote and inhabited house here. No idea how it would be accessed apart from by foot (2.5 miles) or by boat but someone was in residence.  It was at Lochranza that we witnessed a small bird of prey hustle smaller birds through a hedge. The distress calls went on for ages but the bird of prey was unlucky in finding its lunch.

So that was us and out week on Arran at an end. A very nice island with some good walking but we have been there for now and have other islands to visit before we would return. It will forever be associated with Blackfoot Sue, grey seals, glorious sunsets, blue seas and cupcakes. Lemon and chocolate cupcakes - on offer in Morrisons and enjoyed on many of our walks this week. We also enjoyed some very good pub food during our week.

Ferry home easy and the last hour of the journey home was completed in driving rain, zero visibility and great delight in seeing our house again. Power cut while we were away resulted in a warm house waiting for us as the heating defaults to zero setting which is warm!

The next installment is that of October - more of a contrast with beautiful September cannot be imagined. More of that later.