Skye Living

See what I've done there. No need for a second blog just a change of title. 

Although we have been away from the island for almost three of the eight weeks we have lived here, reality is dawning and we wake up realising that we don't have to "go home" as this is it. The house felt like someone's holiday home for a while but no, it's our house.

So, living on Skye - what does it feel like? What is the reality? What do we like about it?
Read on.......

1: Very long summer daylight hours mean that it gets light around 3.00 a.m, the sunrise is later but there is enough light to see by at 3.00. This does not assist with a good night's sleep; especially if your bedroom faces east. Blackout blinds are the answer and we have Tony from Highland Blinds.to thank for finding us some that look good too. There are still strips of light coming through but that adds something to waking up here. Fascinating to look at the pics on the weather website (8 hours of snapshots) The first line of light today was visible on the 2.30 shot looking east, slightly later on the south-facing shot.  If we forget to draw the blinds, a laser beam of sunlight (usually) announces that dawn has broken. 
The downside will be long winter night - hang on, we have a cosy woodburning stove to enjoy and the winter light on the mountains will be magical. It might rain a bit and it could get breezy - for days!

The sun rises over this hill - late evening sunshine after a misty day in this one

2: The MIDGE - at the risk of becoming a midge blog - life does get a little obsessed by the presence of the little beasts. First thought in the morning - is there any wind? If so we can open the windows and let in the air. If not do not open your windows as you will be invaded by hordes of them. Not seeking out tasty humans to bite but congregating in groups at the windows where they will eventually be fried and die. They will bite en route to their death but only if you taste nice. Remedies for the midge include eating vast quantities of vitamin B (marmite plus pills) which I am trialling; planting certain herbs - nice smell regardless of whether they work; various repellants - an essential part of every day's kit for me; midge nets - not attempted yet but who knows; citronella candles to deter them; various creams and potions for the bites - yet to decide which works best. Last night while looking for stars at midnight, we saw bats - this is good news as they can eat up to 3 million midgies a day. We need to encourage them to stay.

3: The croft - Is filling in nicely. Our decision to let it re-naturalise is underway. If you look closely, you can almost see the ferns encroaching towards the house. That great expanse of turned over mud is now greening up nicely. We have to decide what to do with it and will be taking advice from the friendly local crofting association soon. I want them to see the croft in all its tangled, jungle-like glory so they can advise what could be done and also how we could do it. Still keen to grow some of our own produce but what should we try? The local grazing committee is investing in a hydro scheme - we will join it as a small investor but also benefit from shareholder returns as we are tenants of the croft (actually one half of one share).  

Taken 5th May 2014, the one below taken 15 June 2014

Just noticed how the larch cladding has weathered when reviewing the photos. Funny that we didn't see that despite looking at the house every day. Nice silvery colour rather than orange.

 4: The executive shed - the base is built, the shed and frame is ordered and due for delivery in "mid-June" Should be soon then. Gary has grafted to complete a base to the exacting standards set by the shed people who are coming across from Nairn to build it for us. This will allow us to clear the loft of assorted tools, boxes, bird feed and garden implements. It will also free up the utility room and allow us to make it tidy. May get some electrics fitted; may get a beer fridge installed. The shed will also incorporate our log store.

Beautiful shed base created by Gary. Weed suppressant mat, slabs and solid base. Just need the shed now.

5: Working from home - what  difference a connection makes! Now that I have the technology life is so much easier. However, I only have a few more weeks to work before I am released into full Skye living. 

Our own telegraph pole standing proud against the blue sky.

6: The walking - we have explored Glen Brittle with our first walk on the island being to Coire Lagan - this is fitting as it was our first ever walk on Skye way back in 1999. We have a circuit around the Fairy Pools, which are as beautiful as the name suggest, that goes beyond the tourist tracks and takes in some of the wilder corries and gives a glimpse of our house along the loch. We have walked up from the Sligachan Inn and need to return to explore in much more detail; you could spend weeks around that area. 

Basteir Gorge, Pinnacle Ridge and Coire Basteir in the background

Back towards the Sligachan. Pointy hill is Glamaig of hill race fame

Rescue 199 hovers over Beinn Deargh - training exercise

Fairy Pools circuit - scree coming up!

We plan to walk to Talisker Bay, of the whisky fame, across sea cliffs where we hear of eagles being spotted. We plan to walk up to Meall Odair, a hill we can see from the house to take in the view back. We haven't even started on the walks on the north of the island. So you can see that we will be very busy exploring over the next few months.  Then there's the mainland - Glen Shiel, Torridon and further afield.  Like a child in a sweet shop I am.

7: Local news - a kind neighbour has offered us some plants that will grow well and cover the croft. Need to arrange to collect them in a breeze due to the midge factor (her words) The local shop acts as the Avon lady and has the latest catalogue as well as many other things. The local bus (small Mercedes) runs to Portree every day but we can't find the timetable, perhaps you just stick your hand out and it stops? The local Post Office and Postie (John) like to know when you are away so they can hold your post until you return. The  West Highland Free Press keeps us up to date on all Skye and Lochalsh news.We have registered with doctors, dentist and to vote; there is a referendum coming up in September. (More of that later)

8: Our air source heat pump provide us with a very warm house and a plentiful supply of hot water. And we qualify for the new Renewable Heat Initiative (RHI) feed in tariff. That is once the the government computer system recognises our consultant's log in and allows the registration needed to generate the 20 digit number. Once we have that we are past the first hurdle and our application can begin. We will get paid for every KWH the system generates. We might even end up being cost neutral when the return from the hydro scheme is taken into account. 

9: The sounds of Skye, our part of it at least. All day long there is birdsong. Sometimes we hear various livestock from neighbouring crofts and the farm across the loch. When you have what is effectively a metal roof, it makes explosive noises as it expands and contracts - don't notice it after a while but it took some getting used to. There are peacocks and a rooster close by.  The Skye seaplane occasionally flies down the loch and we are visited by RAF jets and the rescue 199 heli from Stornaway. Otherwise it is the wind in the trees, the birds and silence.

Still waiting for a couple of things including replacement glass for one of the patio doors, a final adjustment to the front door, handrail and bath panel being improved, a small bit of grouting and some touch up painting. Nothing onerous and our builder is very good - a little slow but worth the wait. 

We have some storage solutions to finalise, bookcases to cut down for the mezzanine and some racking storage for the utility. 

Almost there and life is good. 

Next event, is deciding what to do on the longest day of the year. If you live this far north it seems only right that you are out there somewhere, very late, in daylight, on the longest day. I'm thinking north of the island looking west out towards the outer Hebrides. A picnic supper and plenty of insect repellant. Weather allowing of course. Will post a report and pictures. 
This was the scene last night - with thanks to Glendale Skye Auroras via facebook.

Midnight light on north Skye 15.6.14

Plenty of events coming up on the island. Highland games; Talisker regatta; Glamaig hill race; Tattie Bogle; blockbuster filming; adventurers spotted filming locally (Ray Mears and Bear Grylls) visiting comedians at Aros, various community / crafting markets and live music in several pubs and venues. So much to do ..... and we have the time to do it!  

It is so easy to get distracted by just sitting in the house, bemused by the ever changing views 

The Cuillin from the living area - taken around 22.30

Fifteen minutes later - can you see the fascination / distraction factor/

or wandering around the croft planning what might go where but we will get up and out unless of course, we don't. The sheer delight of not having to be anywhere, anytime cannot be over stated.

A very belated update - with thanks to Plusnet and BT

OK so we have moved across the sea to Skye, settled in to our new home and furnished it with many lovely things.
There is, of course, a tale to tell. Where to start.

So we moved on April 8th as planned, the removal van with all our wordly goods followed across the wild lands of Glen Shiel and parked up in the drive overnight. (removal men at the pub overnight) Van unloaded and away by 11.00 the next day. And off we went, unpacking essentials first then moving things around and around until we were satisfied. 

House, drive, car and house sign

Meanwhile, appointments booked for phones, Sky TV, blinds, carpet. You get the picture.
No sign of the promised BT engineer (via Plusnet) A very dodgy mobile phone signal meant that the necessary phone call of at least 30 minutes was trying to say the least. Still they promised to sort it out Unfortunately their preferred method of communication was by email - not so easy when you have no internet and an intermittent signal. I had agreed to continue to work on a remote basis for three days a week until the end of June. Not worrying yet as it would be sorted by next week wouldn't it?

In that first week we were connected to Sky despite appalling weather as Bobbie went up the ladder. Worked perfectly. We also admired the carpet on the mezzanine and ordered the blinds for bedrooms, mezzanine and the lounge. All going well so far and the house was taking shape nicely. 

View from our lounge - not bad

Finally contact from Plusnet - the amended appointment was for 1st May. Not good as remote working was due to start on 16 April. Without boring you with the details, I found many ways around the problem and anyway I was travelling to Alloa for three days at the end of April so beyond that we would be connected and I could work remotely, working on-line, tele and video conferencing as required.  Even prepared for a bit of Facetime.
That first trip was by train on one of the most beautiful days this year. Via Plockton and Glen Carron to Inverness then to Stirling. Beautiful views, blue skies, yellow gorse and white beaches and quartz mountains followed by the Cairngorms. 

Then three manic days back at work and back on the reverse journey. Just wanted it done on the way back.  Eventually got home at 22.00.

The 1st May happened while I was away and guess what - no BT engineer although Gary did spot someone in a high vis vest close to a telegraph pole. However no connection. Many tense and increasingly frustrated conversation with Plusnet later, we were still none the wiser as to when we might be connected. 
We made the most of almost two weeks of good weather and started to explore our "local" hills. Don't be fooled by the easier walks. There are no gentle walks in the Cuillins but it was good to be out and about and start to understand just what was on our doorstep. 

Fairy Pools - a nice circular walk involving a tourist hot spot

Into Coire Bhasteir - dangerous territory and not for us just yet

Plenty of snow left in the corries. Steep, dangerous and for climbers only or those with a guide booked. We were back in Alloa two weeks later then off on our road trip. To Cumbria for a day's walking and to break the journey then on to Devon for a five day visit. Plenty of shopping, getting reacquainted with great nieces & nephew, some good weather and then some rain. Stopped over in Wales on the way back enjoying a day of Welsh downpour when we could hear the boulders rolling down the river - scary. Then a day when we snatched a three hour walk between the heavy showers. Back up the motorway to Tarbet on Loch Lomond for a final night's rest in a lovely B&B before heading the final five hours to home. 

In breaking news - the MIDGES have arrived and they are hungry. First noticed while walking to the pub for dinner in Tarbet. 
Then the final drive home through Glen Coe, Fort William and Glen Shiel and over the bridge.
Nice to see the house again. All was in order and still looking as good as ever. The croftland is growing back and the greenery is approaching the house by the day.

Still no connection but we had given up hope by now. I was working in different laybys where I could get a signal to download emails / documents via the ipad. We took advantage of wifi wherever we could find it - pubs, community hall, the builder's yard. Everything took three times longer than it should have. 

On the plus side, if you have to work from a layby then this one isn't bad!

View from the "office"

Good on a breezy day but challenging when warm, cloudy and midgey! Many hours spent surrounded by two phones, an ipad, documents, notebooks and laptop attempting to work. Bemused glances from other users of the layby enjoying the view.

Back to the midge - given that Skye is also known as the Windy Isle, we need an explanation of the three absolutely still days that resulted in an explosion of the mighty midge. They don't actually swarm into the house but they do sneak in and build up in layers at the windows. And give out the odd bite to those if us that taste nice (me). Raid kills them though and the Avon wonder spray repels them nicely.

So some readers will have made the link to the fact that I am writing again. Last Friday, with no warning or communication, we woke up to find the drive blocked by two BT lorries and our very own telegraph pole.

Our very own telegraph pole - back in the world of the web

Following a quick visit to the house and a test phone call we were connected. No wait for an engineer's visit, no five day wait for broadband. No one told Plusnet though! They finally called on Monday to inform me that work was complete and they could now look into connecting the line. Four times. Words failed me - although not for long. Would I like to complete their customer feedback form? Yes I would.

So eight weeks catch up squashed into a few paragraphs dominated by the lack of connectivity. You have no idea of how much you miss it until you don't have it.

We have:
Settled in to our house and met the neighbours and some of the surrounding community
Set up the weather station (Fernilea Weather) with two webcams showing the views or lack of them on some days
Learned how to identify tourists by their driving. Hard braking, photo stops without warning, no concept of single track roads & passing places
Watched some beautiful sunsets and changing light over the mountains
Seen many rainbows across the loch and on the croft -in brilliant technicolour
Started to explore the mountains and will be prepared for anything. No easy walks here
Learned to be creative in order to work, bank and communicate. There is always a Plan B

This Monday, the materials for the shed base were delivered, our bins finally arrived and the problem with drainage sorted out. 
It's full steam ahead now with a shed to be built, decisions about the croft and what we do with it and easing into Skye life once June is over. Can't wait and who knows it might be a tale worth telling! 

Watch this space or a redirection to another space where the tale will continue in due course. 
Skye Living (the Dream)