Cuillins up close and the scarecrow trail

The weather looks good when we rise so we decide to take advantage and head for Glen Brittle and up into the high mountains. Although we can see the Cuillins from here, it takes ages (almost 90 minutes) to drive to Glen Brittle; a very pretty journey though until we turn off onto the road that leads to the parking spot.
This is a truly remote location, you drive along bleak moorland with no signs of any habitation at all for miles. Eventually the road drops steeply into the beginning of Glen Brittle and there are some forestry commission parking areas and a few cars. Not for us though and we continue on the road - an altercation with a 4x4 driver in a hurry who was NOT going to reverse - he just had to wait for me to do so, very slowly as it happened - he whirled past at speed and without a friendly wave!
Eventually we drive around the final corner and park up with a view out over the sea and the islands. Get the walking boots on and set off - there is only one way and that is up. The guidebook says 1,800 ft but omits to mention the gradient - and we are starting from sea level. 
We manage quite a good pace with frequent stops for taking on water and have the paths to ourselves. There were plenty of tents in the campsite (which doesn't share its toilet facilities and has a code lock on the doors) but very few people are out and about. The clouds hovering on the horizon may be one of the reasons. I did spot what I thought was a scarecrow placed on the shore but it moved and proved me wrong. (More of scarecrows later)
We carry on ever upwards and can see our path far ahead of us - it looks even steeper up there. This theory was proved to be right as we left the path junction needed on the return leg and entered the mountain proper. The path winds its way between huge boulders, over many gullies where there would normally be raging torrents and over what would be a particularly nasty river bed, complete with rockfall and slippy stones, in wetter times. We now hit a dilemma - do we go straight up the middle of a rock face, clambering up and over large boulders and chancing the loose stuff; or do we stay left, hug the cliff face and try a bit of scrambling. Should mention that I am flagging slightly at this stage and have slackened my pace completely; Gary still has breath enough to speak!
We go for the left-hand scramble and, although steep and unrelenting, it is a good way over the obstacles. Finally we pull ourselves over the lip of the small lochan and enjoy the view that makes it all worthwhile. We can see South Uist on the horizon, the islands of Rhum, Eigg and another small one and the mainland in the other direction.

Up above us looms the Black Cuillin ridge which runs for over 11 miles, is very jagged, with no escape route and no water source - so carry what you need and be prepared to be scared. .The famous Innaccesible Pinnacle (Inn Pinn) is up above us somewehere
Not for us today (or probably ever) so we find a nice sheltered spot for lunch and the rain arrives. We do get some respite and take some photographic evidence that we were here.
The next trick is to get back down safely - easier said than done when the earth is constantly moving under your feet. At least we have left our jeans at home, unlike the chap that heaves himself into view as we are setting off. At the far right of the cirque is a feature known as the Great Stone Shute - a huge fan of scree that takes the brave walker up through a breach in the cliffs to the ridge, 1,500 ft above. As we prepare to leave, we spot one such walker slipping and sliding down said chute (we can also hear him as hundreds of small stones are disturbed and roll down the almost sheer hillside)

path up/down scree

We decide to go for the rock cleft in descent as I am not good at scrambling downhill. The rain is making the rocks quite slippy now but we make it safely. We meet a party of four plus doberman wearing its own raincoat looking weary on their way up. At the junction of paths, we turn right and follow a relatively gentle path that descends beside a loch then follows a river to the road. There is one final treat in store; a stunning (even in dry weather) waterfall that drops at least 100ft into a crystal clear turquoise pool. I manage to take one photo before the rain returns with a vengeance. Initial rating was 4/10 until we dropped below it and saw the distance it dropped. In winter this would be magnificent and well worth the climb from the road. Regrade it to 6/10 today with potential to make 10/10. 

The final mile or so to the car is along the road so no trip hazards just the driving rain. Nice to see the warm, dry car waiting for us - dry clothes too. Final cup of coffee before we head back south. The mountains have disappeared in the clouds and the rain is sweeping across the glen. We are very pleased that we are heading home to an Aga-warmed house with showers, hot food and good wine. 
Later, suitably cleaned up and with the washing on; we try and eat out on the deck but finally the midges put in an appearance - there is no wind, the rain has stopped so they hover just over and around our heads. No bites to report just the irritating feeling that they are there and could bite at any moment.

Of scarecrows - there is a scarecrow trail on the Minginish Peninsula (take a look at a map of Skye and you will have the answer to the question - why so many peninsulas?) Every house seems to have made and dressed at least one scarecrow in their own particular style. We have seen old scarecrows on walking frames, scarecrows in saris, life jackets, pirate attire, old sea dogs as well as Elvis and one that was flying in the wind. There are literally hundreds and they are truly brilliant. Every bus shelter has its own scarecrow. We will try and find out the reason and the rationale though I suspect it just happens each year. We saw one in Glen Brittle but otherwise they are located along just one road. I particularly like the disco scarecrow and the climbing scarecrow complete with harness and ropes.

Tomorrow is back to plot hunting in the north west of the island. We should then be able to draw up the true shortlist.

Fiskavaig plots, a visit to Mary and visitors to Ord. PS: It's Skye for us.

A beautiful clear and still morning with the Cuillins looking close enough to touch and the water so clear you can see the fish in it.

clear water but no fish

 After a further chat with our nearest neighbours, who have just bought their own plot of land just up the road where they are going to build their new home, we decide that today is a plot hunting kind of day and head off to the west coast. Look at one plot at Satran, immediately re-named Satan by Gary, but it is not for us as it is at the very end of the loch and for most of the day the view would be of seaweed.
The soundtrack for today's drive is Paranoid by Black Sabbath (1970) would be a bit of head-banging and air guitar if Gary wasn't driving - some good singing along though.
Fiskavaig is another of those villages at the end of a long road. There are bus stops everywhere and we pass the Talisker distillery en-route. The road is stunning with views over Loch Harport in one direction and the mountains in the other. To day the loch is blue and sparkly - a perfect plot searching day.
We drive past the first site, note the second and find the third. This plot is high up with a good view over the bay; however there is a second plot that will only be released once plot 1 has been built on. Hmm, could be a problem later when someone plonks their house directly in front of your view! Place this one in the "to be considered further" pile.
We saw the new access road to number 20 and decide to park up and walk to the house site. The access road is long and climbs steadily - could be some future maintenance costs here - but once you reach the levelled house site, the views and the silence are glorious. We spend quite a bit of time walking the boundary and checking various other bits of the plot. This is quite large (0.8 of an acre) and nothing could impede the view in the future. Decide we quite like this one!
Back to the road and on to number 25, which has four plots for sale. We can't see them for looking although we are convinced that we are in the right place. Gary spies a chap strimming and asks him if he knows where the plots are. He is very friendly and gives us chapter and verse. No wonder we struggled - they are where we thought they might be and marked out by a single post planted in the centre of each. Given that the weeds / grass is thigh high in places, spotting a very small marker post is nigh on impossible. We had written them off as having no view but the chap suggested climbing through the field up to plot no 1 which does indeed boast a view to MaCleods tables (mountains), the loch and its islands and the outer hebrides. Decide we quite like this one too.
It is now well past lunchtime so we retreat to the Old Inn at Colbost for a well deserved lunch.
Head into Portree after lunch to pick up details of a couple more plots and to replenish supplies then head back with a coffe stop in a layby with a view of the Cuillins from a different angle. On the way back to Ord, we spot Mary cycling home from work ( at least 10 miles with lots of ups)
Home, shower, change and drive over the two hills to Mary's house. She and her guest are eating dinner although she doesn't let that stop her showing us around. We are on time and not late for once. The house is truly wonderful, on an elevated site with a picture window that captures the mountains as if they were a living picture. I would just sit there all day and never go out. Otherwise, the house is open, airy and takes advantage of natural light from every angle. We think we can do business with her and she thinks she can work with us. So far, so good. Now we just need a plot.
We head back over the hills for a snack, having eaten well at lunchtime. As we move out to the balcony. Mary and friend Richard arrive in Ord for a spot of evening kayaking. It is pretty cool on the deck, goodness knows what it is like on the water. At the other end of the beach, several children get very wet indeed wading out to a small island then back again. There are also two fisherman fishing in the shallows. We amuse ourselves by watching Mary and Richard kayak, practice capsizing and rolls and sit smugly (and well wrapped) on the deck watching and making sympathetic noises. We had offered wine but unsurprisingly they head back to Toskavaig to get clean and warm up.
Rearrange our plot list, disposing of a couple and realising that we have 7/8 to look at around Glendale later this week. We have agreed with Mary that we will make a very short shortlist and she will take a look at our favoured plots for us.
Tomorrow is another walking day and we plan to head into the high hills. Wednesday's weather is less favourable with rain forecast so we will carry out final plot visits then. Including meeting some of the owners for more detailed discussions.
Still broad daylight, the trouble is your brain / bodyclock doesn't think it is bedtime yet so you keep writing / reading until suddenly it is well past bedtime. It is still as can be outside at the moment with the sounds of silence. Wonderful.
Thanks to Janette for her mystery bird reply  - she could be right about the juvenile golden plover.
We have absolutely no mobile phone coverage here and the broadband connection is quite slow so will be picking up emails but not texts or calls; emails do come in but erratic and response may be slow.

PS: At least one decision is made - we will be building on Skye; more leisure activities, more choice of plot and more acreage available. PPS: We will be travelling to the Outer Hebrides often.

A medium effort walk and a super-sized horsefly!

Last night's sunset photo for your delight. Cuillins in the background.

Sunset first night 2210 hours

Have a quick conversation with our neighbour (from Cambridge) before heading off at a leisurely pace this morning. The chap is about to drive for many miles for the Sunday papers - what is it with men and their need for the papers? As we drive across the moorland road, we see two huge birds circling above the hills, but have no idea what they might be.
To get to the start of the walk just drive to the end of the road and park behind the church - sounds easy doesn't it? You have already heard about the roads here; imagine what the very end of one looks and drives like. This is as far south as it is possible to go on Skye.
The guidebook suggests 5 miles and 4 hours walking so a clue in the time required that this is not going to be on easy tracks. Starts off uphill for half a mile then winds up and down between the hills until we can see the sea. It is somewhere in this maze of paths that a huge horsefly takes a fancy to my arm, draws blood and is given the brush off by Gary. Within minutes I have an arm the size of a small car - OK exaggerating but it did swell up quite a lot. Do we have the anti-histamine pills or bite cream with us - no they are 10 miles away. So suffer but not in silence. 
We decide to climb the hill with the cairns, which means walking through someone's garden (with their permission) and scrambling over rocks, stones and boggy grass to get to the start of the climb. We climb to the top and perch on the top of the craggy bit of land for our lunch. The other side of the outcrop falls away very steeply onto rocks below. We are careful to tie everything down / sit on things to avoid losing anything. I have to report sunny, warm weather again and views to Rhum and Eigg that are just wonderful.

Eigg for lunch

On the way back down we stop and chat to the man who lives in the cottage whose garden we are tramping though - Gary admires his generator and he informs us that he is installing a wind turbine and is making / storing electricity from the PV cells he has already installed. He is living completely "off the grid" and will presumable make money from the government's buy-back tariffs. We decide that living at the end of the road and then two and a half miles down a rough track is a bit too remote for us! He seems very happy though.
Back up the track until we reach the turn off for the Point of Sleat. Half a mile it says so we decide it would be a shame not to, seeing as we are so close. We pass a glorious white sandy beach complete with turquoise water with people swimming in it, picnickers on the rocks and plenty of generally summery things going on. The switchback starts again and we go up and up then down into a ravine, over stones thoughtfully placed across the peat bog and end up on the "storm beach" where all kinds of things are washed up. Final up on springy turf (aka the machair) and we see the lighthouse and the end of Skye. The guidebook was correct, the views are stunning and you could play spot that peak for hours. The whole of the west coast and its mountains are available to view. We don't spy any of the marine wildlife described in the guidebook though and it feels like we have walked a lot more than half a mile.
A quick cup of coffee, a sit in the sun and we turn around to retrace our steps. It is at this point that I remember how steep the descents were on the way down; and therefore how steep the ascents will be on the way back. As it turns out, we tramp along quite well and make good time back to the car. Not as good time as the very old landrover that passes us on the track (J reg and looking it)
We decide to take the township road back to the cottage - 10 miles of single track that takes us past Mary's house - we only meet one car and see two others parked up. Go through two settlements before we spot Mary's house. She has suggested that we could walk to hers on Monday night. We clock the distance as just over a mile and a half but also clock the gradient of the two hills involved! We will be driving.
After a fine dinner cooked by the Aga and eaten on the deck, it is time to watch another fine sunset over the water and relax with a glass of something cool.

Six plots, a stunning drive and Fisherman's Loft in Ord

The breakfast at Cuil Lodge was as good as expected and we ate well and chatted to our hosts. We then return to the Trotternish Peninsula to take another look at three plots - successfully finding no 21 this time. All three have different merits and glorious views - especially today when it is clear, warm and almost sunny. One has the access road built and someone has started on the foundation slabs - must check it has not been sold. We have three more plots to view; one on the road to Dunvegan and two on the Waternish peninsula itself. The first plot is too closed in so it is disregarded. The furtherest plot on the peninsula has been dug out and looks east with unrestricted views out to sea - it is a bit small and the land is steep but it is a very peaceful location; we don't strike it off the list. The final plot is in an area called Lochs and looks west across the sea to some small islands; this is quite nice too! Not doing too well in terms of dismissing at least some of the plots we see.

Decide to drive the west coast route down to Ord; this turns out to be one of the most scenic drives we have ever done, with the Cuillin mountain range in full view with different perspectives at every twist and turn of the road. Weather-wise it is 18 degrees, sunny and calm. At many places on this road we say "must come back and explore here" Also spot some great places for photos later.
We stop off for supplies in Broadford, as Ord seems quite remote looking at the map, so we stock up on essentials like wine and cheese.
We then take the road to the ferry (for Mallaig) and turn off this onto a very small road - instructions say 15 minutes drive even though it is only 4 miles. We time it and you couldn't do it safely in less time so the owners do know what they are talking about.
Arrive in Ord which comprises about 12 properties and follow the twisty directions to the door of the Fisherman's Loft. The clue is in the name and the cottage sits on its own little peninsula with nothing but water all around. It has been tastefully (and expensively) renovated with living space upstairs - accessed via a three person lift. There is a deck which looks over rocks and water. I am writing this sitting on the deck, sipping red wine and it feels as if we are on a island; the tide is in and there is water on three sides. The only sound is of birds and the waves slurping on the shore. The sky is clearing to present us with a pure blue sky, the wind has disappeared and the sun will set (eventually and probably close to midnight) behind the Cuillins. Why would we want to be anywhere else?  I have never stayed anywhere like this before.

View from deck

We have an Aga to cook on / with and the first foray proves to be successful with a fine dinner produced and eaten. It does make the kitchen a very hot place at all times but we are just relieved that the food we put in was cooked as we hoped. We have also managed to do all of the washing we have accumulated over the week so will look clean and presentable tomorrow.
Gary has set the camera up on the deck - on auto - so that we will have photos of the ever-changing view taken every 25 minutes; will be interesting to see how they turn out.
Have planned to walk to the end of the Sleat peninsula tomorrow; 8 miles and not too strenuous and of course, the views are stunning, according to several guidebooks. We can see the road to where Mary lives, in fact we watched a motorhome struggle and fail to negotiate the steep bends earlier although he made it on the second attempt.
Have now uploaded photos as promised for Wednesday and Thursday so you can view the pictorial diary, We do need positive ID for the bird we saw on Thursday; have used the RSPB guide to tentatively identify it but..... not 100% sure.
The tide is on the turn, swallows swooping over the water and we have to wear our sunglasses to be able to see anything. Oh, and the sun is still warm! .... and there are no midges (yet)
The visitors' book for this place promises all kinds of wildlife - so far we have only seen common seabirds and the odd rabbit. Keeping an eye open for otters, eagles, dolphins and seals. All available to view from the comfort of your own deck / living space!
A very positive day with no niggles and a sunny, happy ending. 
I think we will enjoy our week here.

Beaches, the ferry and a wee dram

So, today we left Avalon B&B with no regrets (no tears goodbye etc etc (Walker brothers)) after a final breakfast and the handing over of cash. We drove to Horgabost beach where we walked to the end of the beach - pretty though it was, there was no comparison with the waves or the light in April but in compensation we did see the tractor launching the RIB that would take visitors to Taransay - although we didn't see any passengers. We considered walking to the headland but a fence was in the way so we drove to the next beach instead and parked up overlooking one of the most beautiful stretches of white sand possibly in the world, definitely in Europe. 
We then approached the headland from the other side, across the beach and into the dunes then uphill but thankfully not for long. (Muscles still remembering yesterday's exertions) 
Past the standing stone and up to the cairn where we had the best view yet of Taransay. We hear that it has just been sold - lucky beggars. Had our lunch at this glorious spot.
As always on this island, time runs away and it is time to head back to Tarbert for the ferry. It is a very busy ferry with all lines full of vehicles; we are one of the first to drive on and get handed a small red card on leaving the car - this time we are on the mezzanine deck which means the car will be elevated to a "floating" deck and we will be one of the last to leave.
Up on deck, the wind is blowing and it is cool enough for hats and gloves (today is the 1st July) The passengers are a cosmopolitan mix and we hear American, German, Australian and Scandinavian accents to name but a few. We leave precisely on time and watch Harris and Scalpay fade into the distance. 

Scalpay Bridge  from ferry

What is certain is that we will return to this beautiful island - possibly in November when Gary may well get his wish for a choppy crossing with "green water hitting the observation deck windows" The crossing today is smooth with not a roll in sight.
When we eventually drive off the ferry, having explained that there isn't a door to the mezzanine level; it is simply an elevated car deck to a confused american couple; we decide to wait for the traffic to ease before we head for the next and last B&B of this trip.
The Cuil Lodge B&B exemplifies everything a B&B should be - a warm welcome including decent coffee and shortbread; a small but beautifully appointed room with a view; no rules; information about the area and a guest lounge. We do still have to order breakfast though and the towels only just make it!
After a quick shower, we walk to the Ferry Inn which is 5 minutes away. A decent dinner followed by an exploration of the whiskies available in the lounge bar. The sound track during dinner included Mud classics, The Detroit Emeralds, The Iseley Brothers and Doctor Hook - obviously put together by someone from our own era.
Gary tries the Tobermory whisky. which leads to many Wombles songs and quotations and I try and like a Macallan single malt. We walk happliy back through the odd midge swarm, there being absolutely no wind this evening but no bites to report.
And so to bed with a view over the loch where the tide is swarming in quietly and the sun must be close to setting.
Tomorrow is plot visiting day before we head south to our home for the week.
Forgot to mention that we are meeting Mary on Monday evening at her house. which is only two miles from where we are staying, so that we can view a quarter acre plot and see the design mistakes she made and we can learn from.


Once again, pictures to follow! Will upload tomorrow.


From a very peaceful Cuil Lodge in Uig.

High adventure, a deserted village and a good dinner

Out and about soon after breakfast we drive the few miles to Scalpay. As we drive through Kyles Scalpay, we check out a couple of plots - both with old ruins on them and both looking directly out to sea with many little islands, clear water and distant views to Skye. Beautiful but both quite small.
The road to Scalpay is two lanes, fast and well maintained - weird as it can't be used by many people. On the way we pass Loch Lacsadail and a signpost to a remote hostel over the hills and far away. We drive over the bridge (opened by Tony Blair when he was PM) and onto Scalpay. The roads are well surfaced but very very narrow with plenty of those hairpin bends and blind summits. The upside is that hardly anyone or any traffic is around. This is a beautiful island off an island and very lush and green. Seafood processing is the main employment and everyone seems to have a boat, floats and nets and things. We follow the road to "Out End" literally the end of the road. En-route we see the Scalpay Childrens playground - notice reads "All children to vacate playground by 9pm; Closed on Sundays"  An indication, perhaps, of the Scalpay community.
While we are parked up reading the route around the island, Gary mentions the track to the hostel and we decide to return to Harris and do that walk instead. There is a 12 mile option or we could just walk as far as the deserted village and return. Sorted, deserted village it is.
We set off up a nicely graded track, well defined with stunning views back over towards Tarbert and the hills beyond.

Back to Tarbert from the pass

We head upwards for some time then reach a cairn at the top of the pass. Just after this we turn right to head down towards where the map says the village is. This track is also well kept if slightly wetter in places.  An unknown bird tweets regularly beside us; captured on film just before my batteries run out. Will identify later.

Unknown bird - possibly a dunlin?

We now drop down quite steeply to the deserted village which has some interesting ruins, a beach and most interestingly a solar powered house in the process of being renovated. The only way to get any materials or provisions here would be by boat. We did see quad bike tracks higher up but the deep marsh and steepness of the ground would make it impossible to get any further.
The guidebook now suggests finding the gate leading to a track back a different way and meeting the track we left earlier at the head of the loch. Despite the bog, deep pools of mud and wet legs we do manage to find it and follow it, reassured by the footsteps and marks of others' boots. The track is narrow, undefined in a lot of places and quite tricky. We squelch onwards, over steep rocky bits, into deep quagmire bits and through the heather and fern. This is exhausting stuff - we can see the beach at the head of the loch so we persevere despite the steep drop to the sea on our right. Can't contemplate turning back now.
The book mentions there is a gill to cross; we hear it before we see it - good grief; the path deteriorates into a slimy, rocky, boggy nightmare and the gill is a raging torrent where a slip would be very nasty. Wet pants and trousers (from sitting / sliding in the water!) now join the wet legs as we slither and crawl across the rocks and through the water. Gary gets me across then follows me up a scramble on the other side and it's only another 20 minutes of wet slidey ground before we hit the beach and rejoin the main path. 
A well deserved break for water and some food before we turn it around to head back. We knew that training on Dartmoor would come in handy.
The bad news is that we are at sea level and must regain an awful lot of height before we can descend to the car. This is steep terrain with switchbacks taking you where you would swear no path could go. There is a lot of sweating. Eventually we reach a cairn but it is just saying "you have done the steepest bit" and is not the top. On upwards, then relief when Gary can see the cairn on the top of the pass and I can confirm to my brain that it does not have to direct my legs uphill for much longer. 
Back down the nice gentle path beside a tumbling burn and the welcome sight of the car waiting for us. 
A swift return to our B&B for showers and a change before we head out for dinner. The Rodel Hotel lives up to its promise and we enjoy a lovely dinner. We had taken cameras (new batteries) in case of stunning sunsets but the clouds came in and although it wasn't dark it was gloomy and not spectacular.
Back to the B&B where we were in trouble for not leaving out our breakfast demands. Now completed and enjoying a glass of red before sleep.
Tomorrow we head back to Skye on the afternoon ferry. One more B&B before we are self catering again for the week.

Luskentyre beach, an interesting drive and dinner

Headed to Luskentyre beach today which didn't disappoint. Originally planned to climb the hill behind the beach for the views over to Taransay and the islands beyond. However when we saw the size of the hill we realised how tired we were from all of that driving so decided to stick with the coast instead. Found a lovely small beach for our coffee break then headed back to the miles of white sands to walk around the estuary as far as possible. With the tide out, the sands go on for ever. It was also difficult to see the course of the river that cuts across the sands and seperates the two beaches. Decided to turn and head to the dunes for lunch. The weather had been mostly kind with small winds, slight showers and some sun. Managed to find shelter down a large pit in the dunes and settled down for lunch - eaten just in time before the true Harris type rain returned. Waterproofs on for the walk back to the car.
We saw a grand total of twelve other people on the beach - busy summer holiday time on Harris. Back at the carpark we talked to a 91 year old (with heart failure) who was contemplating walking the short distance to the beach - we reassured him it was flat and well worth the time and effort. It is apparently recognised worldwide as one of the best beaches to visit. That would explain the crowds then. We chatted to him a bit longer and he told us about how he negotiated his room rate at the Tarbert Hotel down from £160 to £100 - and it may call itself 4 star but is lacking in the finer detail.  He later passed us on the road - still driving well and only stops or slows down when he feels unsafe! 
We then parked up and suddenly almost two hours had passed watching the tide sneaking back in and taking photos.

Sunshine

...and showers

 These pictures taken within 2 minutes of each other!

Thoughts return to food and we decide to drive to the Skoon Art Cafe which has a good reputation and is situated off the "Golden Road" This starts out well but quickly turns into a Harris special with less than a single track in places, steep unfenced drops to sea lochs and other watery areas with the odd hairpain bend and summit without a view thrown in for good measure. We managed to find the cafe but it is only open from 10.00 to 16.30; we might return at a later date. Decide to drive on to the end of the road which gets even narrower; luckily we only meet three or four cars (there are passing places) However one of these comes over the hill much too fast and we meet on a steep hill. They refuse to reverse so eventually Gary has to reverse back down the hill for some distance. Choice words and his opinion of the lady's driving ability are shared through the open window. On we go until we arrive at the Rodel Hotel, which is open! We run in through yet another heavy shower and end up like drowned rats. Could we have a table for two? Fully booked so we make a reservation for tomorrow instead.
Good views across to Skye from here - we never really got to see this view because of the weather in March / April. 
Back to Tarbert seeking a takeaway but no joy. So it's to the local shop for dinner goods and back to our des res to eat them along with a bottle of red.
Plan for tomorrow is a 6 mile walk around Scalpay via the new road bridge. Should be interesting with good views to Skye and the smaller islands. 


More notes re B&Bs


6: If toast is ordered as requested, please do not toast the bread and place it on my table 10 minutes before I arrive at my designated time. Cold, thin toast is a challenge; most of us would rather wait a few minutes and have it hot. (We have a plan - tomorrow we will be early!)
7: Would it really cost that much to offer orange juice by the refillable glass rather then a measured (small) portion which is gone when it's gone. You want to be viewed as generous not mean.
8: Owners of B&Bs are going to have to get with the digital age - not everyone carries that much cash with them. Cheques will soon be a thing of the past.