First Steps ......

towards making sense of the croft by exploring all the way to the loch with plenty of slipping and sliding on the way. Today (Sunday) we created a small set of steps, in the broadest sense of the word, to improve the slippiest bits of the path we have made.  And a rocky step plus handrail / post to avoid a big drop via tree roots.
We have a rocky loch shore complete with stranded jellyfish, rocks and stones, sea pinks  and seaweed plus a great view up and down the loch. 

Lochside just after high tide

The way back up is in there somewhere!

Steps - of a sort - to avoid the sudden slips down.

We have also toiled in the higher woodland to remove dead wood, clear a path, avoid the boggy bits and have trailed twine a la Hansel and Gretl so that we don't get lost on our return. 
There is a huge amount of work to do but at least we have made a start. Of course, to do all of this tools are required so we now have a brush clearer, a D saw and new secateurs. Those plus a spade and lump hammer all have to be carted down and back again. Good exercise for those involved. 

Away from the croft we have visited the Clan Donald centre in Armadale on a glorious late summer day with family who came up for a visit. They arrived to clear blue skies and sunshine which lasted for the whole trip.  We were able to dine on the patio, visit the hills and Portree and went for a lovely meal at the Stein Inn at Waternish. It's not until visitors ask questions like where do you go to buy clothes that you realise just how much our lifestyle has changed. 

We also visited the community woodland at Armadale where there is a trail through an alternative community (and then some) that takes you to an otter hide and a close up view of seal island. We traipsed through the wet wood land, over carefully placed sheep's wool where the ground was very wet (an odd and slightly smelly experience) to the rocks where we could hear the seals before we saw them. The views to the mainland across the Minch were fantastic. 

Mum sitting by the otter hide while the rest of us scrambled to the shore

Across to Knoydart, sea like a millpond today

Before our visitors arrived we have explored Coire na Banachdich then circled back off piste to pick up the track from the ridge to Sgurr Dearg. This was on the midgiest of midge days and we were unable to stop even for a drink so we ran back to the car and had our lunch at home.  

We also  climbed back up the route to Sgurr nan Gillean and went higher than before until we were on the rocky ridge above the Bhasteir gorge. Decided to descend into the gorge, across the rivers - easy with low rainfall levels - and back on the path to the planks we had crossed on our way up. This was a delightful circle, adventurous in places with good views all around. 

Our other venture into the hills was back into Coire na Banachdich where we had "enjoyed" the midge walk, to continue up towards the back wall of Coir an Eich . Up through a rocky cleft, steep on scree and rock and as high as we were comfortable with before stopping for lunch. Some climbers go this way to the Inn Pinn. We sat in howling icy rain to eat our lunch before retreating back to the car. 

The August weather station stats read "raining on 21 (out of 23 days) in August" Snow fell on the Cairngorms, walkers reported hail and sleet on the tops and the temperature fell to below 5 degrees here at Fernilea. It was cool enough to test the fire, which soon warmed us up but doesn't it look good. 

Cosy

We had a week of rainbows, always in the same place across the loch - vivid and beautiful.

Double bow

Full arc

Once our visitors arrived, the weather perked up and summer was on again. 
 
The bikes have been out at last. Tested on the road to Portnalong then down (and back UP) the road to Carbost although I confess to waiting at the top of the Brae (hill) while Gary braves the tourists at the distillery and the steep uphill back to the corner where we pedal back UP to the house. One week wind assisted on the UP, the next wind against. Managed to stay on and pedal both weeks.

Did I mention the chainsaw and maul?  Both have allowed us (Gary) to increase our supply of wood for the winter and with the number of trees to be felled lower down we should have sufficient wood for several years.

Splitting the chainsawed logs with the maul

Next few weeks will bring the Referendum, voting cards safely stashed, very little factual information to assist with decision making. Lots of rhetoric, much emotion and many slogans around. We saw rocks, lamp posts, fences, cars and  boats painted with the YES slogan. The YES people have visited the house with their literature, no sign of the Better Together bunch.

Our local hydro scheme is due to start the building phase soon and we have offered to record progress through a blog. Small scale scheme which will provide income and electricity for the community. A good rate of return on your investment although you have to be a local crofter to participate.

We also eagerly await the first sighting of the Aurora Borealis which is visible on a clear night looking north - if we can stay awake that is. During the clear skies earlier this week we had our first glimpse of the dark skies / stars fro the patio. Amazing. 

Hoping to "map" the woodland so that we can start thinking about what and where soon. 

Also planning on climbing the ridge to view the brave souls attempting Inn Pinn - if we can scramble up. Should make for some good photo opportunities. Will share if we get there.  

Not what we signed up for!

The heat and dawn to dusk sunshine that is. Usually when the rest of Britain is basking in the summer sun, Skye and the north west of Scotland is cooler, wetter and definitely windier. Not so July 2014. Sweltering we have been, in temperatures approaching 28 degrees. Little wind, even on the high hills and no rain to speak of. 
This has allowed us to venture into territory we might not otherwise have been such as coire a greadiadh when we missed the path for Sgurr na Banachdich recently. Rather than turn around and retrace our steps steeply upwards, we just carried on and discovered a geographer's delight in many hanging valleys, each with its own waterfalls and coire lip leading to yet another higher coire. Spent a pleasant day here exploring rocks, streams and deep dark gorges carved out of the rock. 

Steep, dark and probably dangerous gorge, Munro summit behind and above.

View back towards Glen Brittle

We also climbed almost to the top of Coire Ghrunda as the rock was dry and grippy but didn't quite make it over the final cliff to the lochan. Next time perhaps. The sun reflecting off the white rocks was dazzling and this was the day when my feet welcomed a quick dunk in an icy mountain stream.

View back down and out to sea, Rhum in the haze.

Coire lip, where we didn't go today but next time ....

Earlier we did the fairy pools circuit, enjoying an early start to avoid the crowds and park up easily. Enjoyed the circuit and finished on the path by the pools. It was like Blackpool beach with crowds of people, families on rocky "beaches" and people splashing and swimming in the pools. There was even a crowd of beer swilling young men diving off rocks. As we beat a hasty retreat back to the car, we encountered a paramedic, in full uniform and looking very hot, carrying his emergency bag up the path. Shortly after this, Mountain Rescue turned up in ones and twos and not in a great rush (No serious injuries we thought) Then came the stretcher on one volunteer's back. We stopped for our final cuppa on the river bank close to a tricky river crossing wondering whether we might see someone topple over and in to the water but despite sparkly sandals, handbags, babes in arms and totally inappropriate clothing, all made it safely across. Learned later that someone had jumped into a pool and broken their leg. The car park was mayhem, ambulance, MR vehicles, tour buses, camper vans and cars all along the road. Decided that we would save the pools for quieter times in the future. 

The weather broke towards the end of last week with normal service resumed and torrential rain. The pond refilled, plants revived and waterfalls and rivers were re-invigorated. 

On a Sunday with a weather window we decided to try Ben Tianavaig, a little known hill close to Portree. Not really that high but presenting glorious views around the island. Parked up in Camastianavaig by a delightful little bay and walked along the ever higher cliff edges until we eventually reached the top. This hill is deceptive with many false summits but it was worth the climb. We saw a huge bird of prey that disappeared before I could get out the camera - could this have been my first sighting of an eagle up close? It's possible but it didn't reappear so we will never know. 
 

The route up sticks close to the cliff edge - possible eagle sighting just here

This rain shower stayed over the sea but accompanied our climb

Back towards the Cuillin - potential for a glorious view

At the summit we met a family of three Swedish visitors who were staying locally and had the same thoughts as ourselves. Had a chat then lunch while they decided to return the "rougher and tougher" route climbing down to the shore and returning along the base of the cliffs. We returned the way we came but this is yet another walk to return to. The views to Portree, the Old Man and north to Uig were wonderful. The Cuillin were hiding in cloud but would be just as good on a clear day. 

The following Sunday we walked to Waternish Point, a peninsula that seems very remote north of Dunvegan. A ruined church provides a car park and the starting point. Then you are on farm tracks through bog and mud past iron age forts, stone circles and a ruined house to a lighthouse at the point. We picked our way through rabbit warrens in meadows above the point before turning around for the return journey. Big rain was forecast and we made it back to the car just as it started to fall. Plenty of history here and many reasons to return, not least the views out to the Outer Hebrides. We watched the ferry to Uist cross the Minch and disappear into the mist. No photos, it was too dreich today.

Climbed to our "local" war memorial on Monday after a failed trip to Talisker Bay. Car Park at Talisker is shown on the map but this consists of 5 or 6 spaces beside a wall on a junction. On Monday it was filled with mostly foreign cars and camper vans leaving only just enough space to turn around. Our local hydro scheme will be run, quite literally, from the burn on the hill here. The day had cleared and Loch Harport looked sublime.  Had our coffee here instead of the beach and watched fun and games on the junction below.

We live just where the land curves out to the right

Wildlife: 
Midges of course - August is their high season. They descend in hordes in the early evening when the wind drops. The clegs are worse but apart from one major bite, have managed to avoid them.
Possible sighting of eagles close to Fernilea - across the loch and just up the road to Glen Brittle
Spiders which are huge and getting bigger by catching and eating midges and other flying insects. Encouraging these to spin and stay
Flying ants - swarms on two evenings
Beetles that like to fly / crawl inside then die
Moths of every size battering the windows every evening
Garden birds - sparrows, chaffinches, gold finches, robins, green finches and a wren that has taken up residence in the log store. Also swallows and doves. 
The sounds of peacocks, sheep, cows and dogs from neighbouring crofts.
Wild deer in Coire Ghrunda - unfazed by humans apparently

Completely alone but staying put thank you.

Tested our new fire pit which gives off enough smoke to see off the midgies and keeps you toasty warm at the same time. Instructions say "Don't use this item in your caravan or on your boat"   Right.

Some people I know would like the pervading smell of woodsmoke this leaves on clothing and hair

Highland Games in Portree today. Basically an Island sports day with added pipes, dancing and "heavy" sports. Held on The Lump above the harbour, in a natural ampitheatre. 

Skye Pipe Band - uplifting they were. Bald head unfortunate but unavoidable

Heavy sports in the centre, runners in the foreground. All at The Lump, Portree

Camera batteries failed so good old phone camera saved the day again. An interesting day with thousands of visitors crammed into a small green space. The chap in shirt and trousers is taking part in one of the open races. Competitors from across the world as well as the Island. Lots of local winners though.
A comic for a compere, prizes including whiskey and good fun for all. We left around 15.30 so missed the caber tossing but enough was enough by that point, Stood in the rain for two hours but sun came out in the afternoon. 

The house - very few problems experienced during the defect period so far.  A couple of minor issues plus some settling cracks as expected.Good response from McQueens when needed. We are learning the heating system and you think twice about everything that goes in the drains when you have your own waste treatment plant! We are saving a fortune on bleach. Half way through the six month period now and both the house and us are settling in well.

Off to see an exhibition of paintings by a local 94 year old on Friday. The artist is hoping to be in residence and we are hoping for some nice cake to go with the coffee. 

Keeping an eye on the tail end of Hurricane Bertha, forecast to pay a visit on Sunday.

I am now working for eight days a month, until the end of November. A gradual decline in days and input. Seems to be OK so far with a limited number of tasks / projects to stay involved with. 

Getting ready for a family visit at the end of the month. The wine is in, menus planned and itinerary being confirmed with wet and dry day options.