This has allowed us to venture into territory we might not otherwise have been such as coire a greadiadh when we missed the path for Sgurr na Banachdich recently. Rather than turn around and retrace our steps steeply upwards, we just carried on and discovered a geographer's delight in many hanging valleys, each with its own waterfalls and coire lip leading to yet another higher coire. Spent a pleasant day here exploring rocks, streams and deep dark gorges carved out of the rock.
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| Steep, dark and probably dangerous gorge, Munro summit behind and above. |
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| View back towards Glen Brittle |
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| View back down and out to sea, Rhum in the haze. |
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| Coire lip, where we didn't go today but next time .... |
Earlier we did the fairy pools circuit, enjoying an early start to avoid the crowds and park up easily. Enjoyed the circuit and finished on the path by the pools. It was like Blackpool beach with crowds of people, families on rocky "beaches" and people splashing and swimming in the pools. There was even a crowd of beer swilling young men diving off rocks. As we beat a hasty retreat back to the car, we encountered a paramedic, in full uniform and looking very hot, carrying his emergency bag up the path. Shortly after this, Mountain Rescue turned up in ones and twos and not in a great rush (No serious injuries we thought) Then came the stretcher on one volunteer's back. We stopped for our final cuppa on the river bank close to a tricky river crossing wondering whether we might see someone topple over and in to the water but despite sparkly sandals, handbags, babes in arms and totally inappropriate clothing, all made it safely across. Learned later that someone had jumped into a pool and broken their leg. The car park was mayhem, ambulance, MR vehicles, tour buses, camper vans and cars all along the road. Decided that we would save the pools for quieter times in the future.
The weather broke towards the end of last week with normal service resumed and torrential rain. The pond refilled, plants revived and waterfalls and rivers were re-invigorated.
On a Sunday with a weather window we decided to try Ben Tianavaig, a little known hill close to Portree. Not really that high but presenting glorious views around the island. Parked up in Camastianavaig by a delightful little bay and walked along the ever higher cliff edges until we eventually reached the top. This hill is deceptive with many false summits but it was worth the climb. We saw a huge bird of prey that disappeared before I could get out the camera - could this have been my first sighting of an eagle up close? It's possible but it didn't reappear so we will never know.
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| The route up sticks close to the cliff edge - possible eagle sighting just here |
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| This rain shower stayed over the sea but accompanied our climb |
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| Back towards the Cuillin - potential for a glorious view |
At the summit we met a family of three Swedish visitors who were staying locally and had the same thoughts as ourselves. Had a chat then lunch while they decided to return the "rougher and tougher" route climbing down to the shore and returning along the base of the cliffs. We returned the way we came but this is yet another walk to return to. The views to Portree, the Old Man and north to Uig were wonderful. The Cuillin were hiding in cloud but would be just as good on a clear day.
The following Sunday we walked to Waternish Point, a peninsula that seems very remote north of Dunvegan. A ruined church provides a car park and the starting point. Then you are on farm tracks through bog and mud past iron age forts, stone circles and a ruined house to a lighthouse at the point. We picked our way through rabbit warrens in meadows above the point before turning around for the return journey. Big rain was forecast and we made it back to the car just as it started to fall. Plenty of history here and many reasons to return, not least the views out to the Outer Hebrides. We watched the ferry to Uist cross the Minch and disappear into the mist. No photos, it was too dreich today.
Climbed to our "local" war memorial on Monday after a failed trip to Talisker Bay. Car Park at Talisker is shown on the map but this consists of 5 or 6 spaces beside a wall on a junction. On Monday it was filled with mostly foreign cars and camper vans leaving only just enough space to turn around. Our local hydro scheme will be run, quite literally, from the burn on the hill here. The day had cleared and Loch Harport looked sublime. Had our coffee here instead of the beach and watched fun and games on the junction below.
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| We live just where the land curves out to the right |
Midges of course - August is their high season. They descend in hordes in the early evening when the wind drops. The clegs are worse but apart from one major bite, have managed to avoid them.
Possible sighting of eagles close to Fernilea - across the loch and just up the road to Glen Brittle
Spiders which are huge and getting bigger by catching and eating midges and other flying insects. Encouraging these to spin and stay
Flying ants - swarms on two evenings
Beetles that like to fly / crawl inside then die
Moths of every size battering the windows every evening
Garden birds - sparrows, chaffinches, gold finches, robins, green finches and a wren that has taken up residence in the log store. Also swallows and doves.
The sounds of peacocks, sheep, cows and dogs from neighbouring crofts.
Wild deer in Coire Ghrunda - unfazed by humans apparently
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| Completely alone but staying put thank you. |
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| Some people I know would like the pervading smell of woodsmoke this leaves on clothing and hair |
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| Skye Pipe Band - uplifting they were. Bald head unfortunate but unavoidable |
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| Heavy sports in the centre, runners in the foreground. All at The Lump, Portree |
A comic for a compere, prizes including whiskey and good fun for all. We left around 15.30 so missed the caber tossing but enough was enough by that point, Stood in the rain for two hours but sun came out in the afternoon.
The house - very few problems experienced during the defect period so far. A couple of minor issues plus some settling cracks as expected.Good response from McQueens when needed. We are learning the heating system and you think twice about everything that goes in the drains when you have your own waste treatment plant! We are saving a fortune on bleach. Half way through the six month period now and both the house and us are settling in well.
Off to see an exhibition of paintings by a local 94 year old on Friday. The artist is hoping to be in residence and we are hoping for some nice cake to go with the coffee.
Keeping an eye on the tail end of Hurricane Bertha, forecast to pay a visit on Sunday.
I am now working for eight days a month, until the end of November. A gradual decline in days and input. Seems to be OK so far with a limited number of tasks / projects to stay involved with.
Getting ready for a family visit at the end of the month. The wine is in, menus planned and itinerary being confirmed with wet and dry day options.
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