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Wednesday, 6 August 2014

Not what we signed up for!

The heat and dawn to dusk sunshine that is. Usually when the rest of Britain is basking in the summer sun, Skye and the north west of Scotland is cooler, wetter and definitely windier. Not so July 2014. Sweltering we have been, in temperatures approaching 28 degrees. Little wind, even on the high hills and no rain to speak of. 
This has allowed us to venture into territory we might not otherwise have been such as coire a greadiadh when we missed the path for Sgurr na Banachdich recently. Rather than turn around and retrace our steps steeply upwards, we just carried on and discovered a geographer's delight in many hanging valleys, each with its own waterfalls and coire lip leading to yet another higher coire. Spent a pleasant day here exploring rocks, streams and deep dark gorges carved out of the rock. 
Steep, dark and probably dangerous gorge, Munro summit behind and above.

View back towards Glen Brittle
We also climbed almost to the top of Coire Ghrunda as the rock was dry and grippy but didn't quite make it over the final cliff to the lochan. Next time perhaps. The sun reflecting off the white rocks was dazzling and this was the day when my feet welcomed a quick dunk in an icy mountain stream.
View back down and out to sea, Rhum in the haze.
Coire lip, where we didn't go today but next time ....

Earlier we did the fairy pools circuit, enjoying an early start to avoid the crowds and park up easily. Enjoyed the circuit and finished on the path by the pools. It was like Blackpool beach with crowds of people, families on rocky "beaches" and people splashing and swimming in the pools. There was even a crowd of beer swilling young men diving off rocks. As we beat a hasty retreat back to the car, we encountered a paramedic, in full uniform and looking very hot, carrying his emergency bag up the path. Shortly after this, Mountain Rescue turned up in ones and twos and not in a great rush (No serious injuries we thought) Then came the stretcher on one volunteer's back. We stopped for our final cuppa on the river bank close to a tricky river crossing wondering whether we might see someone topple over and in to the water but despite sparkly sandals, handbags, babes in arms and totally inappropriate clothing, all made it safely across. Learned later that someone had jumped into a pool and broken their leg. The car park was mayhem, ambulance, MR vehicles, tour buses, camper vans and cars all along the road. Decided that we would save the pools for quieter times in the future. 

The weather broke towards the end of last week with normal service resumed and torrential rain. The pond refilled, plants revived and waterfalls and rivers were re-invigorated. 

On a Sunday with a weather window we decided to try Ben Tianavaig, a little known hill close to Portree. Not really that high but presenting glorious views around the island. Parked up in Camastianavaig by a delightful little bay and walked along the ever higher cliff edges until we eventually reached the top. This hill is deceptive with many false summits but it was worth the climb. We saw a huge bird of prey that disappeared before I could get out the camera - could this have been my first sighting of an eagle up close? It's possible but it didn't reappear so we will never know. 
 
The route up sticks close to the cliff edge - possible eagle sighting just here
This rain shower stayed over the sea but accompanied our climb


Back towards the Cuillin - potential for a glorious view


At the summit we met a family of three Swedish visitors who were staying locally and had the same thoughts as ourselves. Had a chat then lunch while they decided to return the "rougher and tougher" route climbing down to the shore and returning along the base of the cliffs. We returned the way we came but this is yet another walk to return to. The views to Portree, the Old Man and north to Uig were wonderful. The Cuillin were hiding in cloud but would be just as good on a clear day. 

The following Sunday we walked to Waternish Point, a peninsula that seems very remote north of Dunvegan. A ruined church provides a car park and the starting point. Then you are on farm tracks through bog and mud past iron age forts, stone circles and a ruined house to a lighthouse at the point. We picked our way through rabbit warrens in meadows above the point before turning around for the return journey. Big rain was forecast and we made it back to the car just as it started to fall. Plenty of history here and many reasons to return, not least the views out to the Outer Hebrides. We watched the ferry to Uist cross the Minch and disappear into the mist. No photos, it was too dreich today.

Climbed to our "local" war memorial on Monday after a failed trip to Talisker Bay. Car Park at Talisker is shown on the map but this consists of 5 or 6 spaces beside a wall on a junction. On Monday it was filled with mostly foreign cars and camper vans leaving only just enough space to turn around. Our local hydro scheme will be run, quite literally, from the burn on the hill here. The day had cleared and Loch Harport looked sublime.  Had our coffee here instead of the beach and watched fun and games on the junction below.
We live just where the land curves out to the right
Wildlife: 
Midges of course - August is their high season. They descend in hordes in the early evening when the wind drops. The clegs are worse but apart from one major bite, have managed to avoid them.
Possible sighting of eagles close to Fernilea - across the loch and just up the road to Glen Brittle
Spiders which are huge and getting bigger by catching and eating midges and other flying insects. Encouraging these to spin and stay
Flying ants - swarms on two evenings
Beetles that like to fly / crawl inside then die
Moths of every size battering the windows every evening
Garden birds - sparrows, chaffinches, gold finches, robins, green finches and a wren that has taken up residence in the log store. Also swallows and doves. 
The sounds of peacocks, sheep, cows and dogs from neighbouring crofts.
Wild deer in Coire Ghrunda - unfazed by humans apparently
Completely alone but staying put thank you.
Tested our new fire pit which gives off enough smoke to see off the midgies and keeps you toasty warm at the same time. Instructions say "Don't use this item in your caravan or on your boat"   Right.
Some people I know would like the pervading smell of woodsmoke this leaves on clothing and hair
Highland Games in Portree today. Basically an Island sports day with added pipes, dancing and "heavy" sports. Held on The Lump above the harbour, in a natural ampitheatre. 

Skye Pipe Band - uplifting they were. Bald head unfortunate but unavoidable

Heavy sports in the centre, runners in the foreground. All at The Lump, Portree
Camera batteries failed so good old phone camera saved the day again. An interesting day with thousands of visitors crammed into a small green space. The chap in shirt and trousers is taking part in one of the open races. Competitors from across the world as well as the Island. Lots of local winners though.
A comic for a compere, prizes including whiskey and good fun for all. We left around 15.30 so missed the caber tossing but enough was enough by that point, Stood in the rain for two hours but sun came out in the afternoon. 

The house - very few problems experienced during the defect period so far.  A couple of minor issues plus some settling cracks as expected.Good response from McQueens when needed. We are learning the heating system and you think twice about everything that goes in the drains when you have your own waste treatment plant! We are saving a fortune on bleach. Half way through the six month period now and both the house and us are settling in well.

Off to see an exhibition of paintings by a local 94 year old on Friday. The artist is hoping to be in residence and we are hoping for some nice cake to go with the coffee. 

Keeping an eye on the tail end of Hurricane Bertha, forecast to pay a visit on Sunday.

I am now working for eight days a month, until the end of November. A gradual decline in days and input. Seems to be OK so far with a limited number of tasks / projects to stay involved with. 

Getting ready for a family visit at the end of the month. The wine is in, menus planned and itinerary being confirmed with wet and dry day options.

Monday, 7 July 2014

Midsummer & our first Skye Munro

First to Midsummer - best laid plans; weather just didn't play the game. The days leading up to the 21st June, the day itself and a couple of days after were dull, cloudy, intermittent drizzle and no glorious light or midnight sun. 
So my plans to get out and enjoy a picnic supper in the midnight sun scuppered. Read about a few hardy souls who tried the bivvy thing and saw absolutely nothing. Next year then. 

We managed a 10 mile circuit of Glen Brittle forest which helped with fitness levels. The acrobatics required to gather pine cones (for kindling) whilst wearing rucsacks added to the exertion and we did eventually get some views across to the Cuillins. But the black flies and midgies found you as soon as you stopped moving. We did manage our lunch at a picnic table, conveniently placed on a ridgy bit so windy and midges unable to fly. Back to the car laden down with pine cones and fingers crossed for improving weather.

In Skye news, Tesco provide a "Click & Collect" service from Portree or Broadford. This has no delivery charge and we have to travel to Portree anyway to do our weekly shop so the much more expensive Co-op is suffering. The drop off point is the local Shinty club and Tesco are sending three vans per drop, twice a day. The market is clearly there despite the fact that they travel from Dingwall. Very nice guys on the vans to help with the loading too. The Clubcard points can continue. 

So Friday 27 June and the weather was set fair. Decision made to try the "easy" Munro which we can see from our house. Bruache na Frithe it was. Loaded up with plenty of water, the usual set of layering clothing, maps, GPS. No cameras to save weight so the only photos are from my camera phone. We will have to go back up with the good cameras. 

Up the path from the layby near the Slig to the bealach. Headed left at a large cairn, over the river (This route would be tricky if not impossible after heavy rain) and up into the grassy bowl of the lower coire. The route planner had said the path here was faint, but a line of cairns took us up in the right direction. The bowl of the coire was filled with wild flowers and the occasional sheep. Blessed are the cairn makers as they saved us a fair amount of dithering here. Head for the left side, don't mistake the dry river bed for a path and keep going up. As we got higher, the views back to where we live and out to sea beyond just got better and better. We followed the progress of three small figures on the ridge to our right. Tiny silhouettes against the sky. The path did get steeper and more rocky, scree sliding and loose but was relatively easy. We watched two of the ridge walkers scramble down a scree path, cutting off a corner to return on the path we had climbed up. 
The last 50m was very steep but the reward was to emerge on a narrow ridge with a view of the eastern Cuillins that took our breath away. We were so close to the Bhasteir tooth that it scared us and we waved to two dots of people on top of Am Bhasteir. 
We turned right here for the final pull to the summit. Route planner said tricky in poor visibility. We managed to go wrong twice in good visibility and found ourselves on dodgy (high) ground. A slither down some rocks onto the correct path and we were at the summit trig. This is the only trig point in the Cuillins. 
Sgurr Nan Gillean, the pointy peak in the background. Bla Bheinn behind
Summit trig, Cuillin ridge behind and out to sea
We could see the whole ridge from Sgurr Alasdair right around to where we were standing. One other walker sharing the summit. Bizarrely the wind dropped here so we ate our lunch drinking in the views and being constantly amazed by the changing light and shadow. Hats and gloves were required though despite the shelter. A group of six, clanking with climbing gear and wearing helmets, passed us. Looked tired despite being young and presumably fit.  We considered the north west ridge as a descent route but decided to stick with and reverse our route up. The north west ridge is a downward scramble a bit like striding edge. Will save that one for another day.
Most of the ridge including Inn Pin in the distance
You can see our house from here. Just where the land curves out to the right to meet the loch.
We did take the short cut back down, very loose scree that delivered you back to the ascent path and avoided the steepest part over eroded scree. Not so good for the boots though. 
So back down to the main path and the car. This walk took us 7.5 hours in total but we did have lots of stops for drinks and views. A fantastic day and the Munro count is now 9. Quite a few to go then. 

Work intervened as did bad weather on the following Friday - 38mm of rain before 13.00. A very wet day. The pond filled back up as a result.

Saturday we climbed up to the point where the paths diverge for Sgurr Nan Gillean and Am Bhasteir. Neither looked very inviting although we could pick out a route. We had always planned to stop here and have our lunch, indulge in some photos then make our way back to the Slig for the Glamaig hill race.  

View down Glen Sligachan from lunch spot
Red Cuillin, Glamaig on LHS

Classic Cuillin view

Good cameras carted up the hill today, notice the difference. 
Just made it down in time for the start of the race. Met a few competitors warming up as we were walking back. This race is almost vertical after the first mile. A long line of coloured dots on the hill with a duck race back at the river to distract the watchers. A good commentary from the hotel kept us informed of progress. The first runner was back in under 47 minutes. Four miles, two of which are straight up and down. He was ahead of the field by almost 5 minutes. Muddy, bloody legs were par for the course, after all that rain the previous day it must have been a bog fest in places. In the meantime, my duck managed fourth place so I am now the owner of a Slig t-shirt with DILLIGAF nicely embroidered on the back. Look it up, we had to!

On the croft, we are trying out different plants. Herbs growing well, apart from Basil. Flower seeds scattered and the plants we got from Shona are planted and seem to be thriving. Considering raised beds, poly tunnels, fruit trees and bushes and which areas to plant in.
Then there's a return trip to the Old Man planned, Skye Highland Games, otter spotting and the elusive eagles / sea eagles, the fairy glen (after the tourists have gone) plus the Quiraing. Haven't even been to the north of the island yet. We regularly see a pair of large birds of prey across the loch but have been unable to identify them. Wedding anniversary coming up so perhaps we will treat ourselves to a decent pair of binoculars.

The SHED has now been assembled and the loft and the utility room are once again useable storage space and clean and organised. It is a beauty of a shed, designed to withstand the rigours of Skye weather. Gary can confirm this as he helped to offload the lorry and was "mate" for the assembly. Looking good.
A sturdy shed on a blue sky day
Log store section, protected from the prevailing winds and rain
  Skye Living, can't beat it. The adventure continues .......
 

Monday, 16 June 2014

Skye Living

See what I've done there. No need for a second blog just a change of title. 

Although we have been away from the island for almost three of the eight weeks we have lived here, reality is dawning and we wake up realising that we don't have to "go home" as this is it. The house felt like someone's holiday home for a while but no, it's our house.

So, living on Skye - what does it feel like? What is the reality? What do we like about it?
Read on.......

1: Very long summer daylight hours mean that it gets light around 3.00 a.m, the sunrise is later but there is enough light to see by at 3.00. This does not assist with a good night's sleep; especially if your bedroom faces east. Blackout blinds are the answer and we have Tony from Highland Blinds.to thank for finding us some that look good too. There are still strips of light coming through but that adds something to waking up here. Fascinating to look at the pics on the weather website (8 hours of snapshots) The first line of light today was visible on the 2.30 shot looking east, slightly later on the south-facing shot.  If we forget to draw the blinds, a laser beam of sunlight (usually) announces that dawn has broken. 
The downside will be long winter night - hang on, we have a cosy woodburning stove to enjoy and the winter light on the mountains will be magical. It might rain a bit and it could get breezy - for days!
The sun rises over this hill - late evening sunshine after a misty day in this one
2: The MIDGE - at the risk of becoming a midge blog - life does get a little obsessed by the presence of the little beasts. First thought in the morning - is there any wind? If so we can open the windows and let in the air. If not do not open your windows as you will be invaded by hordes of them. Not seeking out tasty humans to bite but congregating in groups at the windows where they will eventually be fried and die. They will bite en route to their death but only if you taste nice. Remedies for the midge include eating vast quantities of vitamin B (marmite plus pills) which I am trialling; planting certain herbs - nice smell regardless of whether they work; various repellants - an essential part of every day's kit for me; midge nets - not attempted yet but who knows; citronella candles to deter them; various creams and potions for the bites - yet to decide which works best. Last night while looking for stars at midnight, we saw bats - this is good news as they can eat up to 3 million midgies a day. We need to encourage them to stay.

3: The croft - Is filling in nicely. Our decision to let it re-naturalise is underway. If you look closely, you can almost see the ferns encroaching towards the house. That great expanse of turned over mud is now greening up nicely. We have to decide what to do with it and will be taking advice from the friendly local crofting association soon. I want them to see the croft in all its tangled, jungle-like glory so they can advise what could be done and also how we could do it. Still keen to grow some of our own produce but what should we try? The local grazing committee is investing in a hydro scheme - we will join it as a small investor but also benefit from shareholder returns as we are tenants of the croft (actually one half of one share).  
Taken 5th May 2014, the one below taken 15 June 2014

Just noticed how the larch cladding has weathered when reviewing the photos. Funny that we didn't see that despite looking at the house every day. Nice silvery colour rather than orange.
 4: The executive shed - the base is built, the shed and frame is ordered and due for delivery in "mid-June" Should be soon then. Gary has grafted to complete a base to the exacting standards set by the shed people who are coming across from Nairn to build it for us. This will allow us to clear the loft of assorted tools, boxes, bird feed and garden implements. It will also free up the utility room and allow us to make it tidy. May get some electrics fitted; may get a beer fridge installed. The shed will also incorporate our log store.
Beautiful shed base created by Gary. Weed suppressant mat, slabs and solid base. Just need the shed now.
5: Working from home - what  difference a connection makes! Now that I have the technology life is so much easier. However, I only have a few more weeks to work before I am released into full Skye living. 
Our own telegraph pole standing proud against the blue sky.
6: The walking - we have explored Glen Brittle with our first walk on the island being to Coire Lagan - this is fitting as it was our first ever walk on Skye way back in 1999. We have a circuit around the Fairy Pools, which are as beautiful as the name suggest, that goes beyond the tourist tracks and takes in some of the wilder corries and gives a glimpse of our house along the loch. We have walked up from the Sligachan Inn and need to return to explore in much more detail; you could spend weeks around that area. 
Basteir Gorge, Pinnacle Ridge and Coire Basteir in the background
Back towards the Sligachan. Pointy hill is Glamaig of hill race fame
Rescue 199 hovers over Beinn Deargh - training exercise

Fairy Pools circuit - scree coming up!
We plan to walk to Talisker Bay, of the whisky fame, across sea cliffs where we hear of eagles being spotted. We plan to walk up to Meall Odair, a hill we can see from the house to take in the view back. We haven't even started on the walks on the north of the island. So you can see that we will be very busy exploring over the next few months.  Then there's the mainland - Glen Shiel, Torridon and further afield.  Like a child in a sweet shop I am.

7: Local news - a kind neighbour has offered us some plants that will grow well and cover the croft. Need to arrange to collect them in a breeze due to the midge factor (her words) The local shop acts as the Avon lady and has the latest catalogue as well as many other things. The local bus (small Mercedes) runs to Portree every day but we can't find the timetable, perhaps you just stick your hand out and it stops? The local Post Office and Postie (John) like to know when you are away so they can hold your post until you return. The  West Highland Free Press keeps us up to date on all Skye and Lochalsh news.We have registered with doctors, dentist and to vote; there is a referendum coming up in September. (More of that later)

8: Our air source heat pump provide us with a very warm house and a plentiful supply of hot water. And we qualify for the new Renewable Heat Initiative (RHI) feed in tariff. That is once the the government computer system recognises our consultant's log in and allows the registration needed to generate the 20 digit number. Once we have that we are past the first hurdle and our application can begin. We will get paid for every KWH the system generates. We might even end up being cost neutral when the return from the hydro scheme is taken into account. 

9: The sounds of Skye, our part of it at least. All day long there is birdsong. Sometimes we hear various livestock from neighbouring crofts and the farm across the loch. When you have what is effectively a metal roof, it makes explosive noises as it expands and contracts - don't notice it after a while but it took some getting used to. There are peacocks and a rooster close by.  The Skye seaplane occasionally flies down the loch and we are visited by RAF jets and the rescue 199 heli from Stornaway. Otherwise it is the wind in the trees, the birds and silence.

Still waiting for a couple of things including replacement glass for one of the patio doors, a final adjustment to the front door, handrail and bath panel being improved, a small bit of grouting and some touch up painting. Nothing onerous and our builder is very good - a little slow but worth the wait. 

We have some storage solutions to finalise, bookcases to cut down for the mezzanine and some racking storage for the utility. 

Almost there and life is good. 

Next event, is deciding what to do on the longest day of the year. If you live this far north it seems only right that you are out there somewhere, very late, in daylight, on the longest day. I'm thinking north of the island looking west out towards the outer Hebrides. A picnic supper and plenty of insect repellant. Weather allowing of course. Will post a report and pictures. 
This was the scene last night - with thanks to Glendale Skye Auroras via facebook.

Midnight light on north Skye 15.6.14

Plenty of events coming up on the island. Highland games; Talisker regatta; Glamaig hill race; Tattie Bogle; blockbuster filming; adventurers spotted filming locally (Ray Mears and Bear Grylls) visiting comedians at Aros, various community / crafting markets and live music in several pubs and venues. So much to do ..... and we have the time to do it!  

It is so easy to get distracted by just sitting in the house, bemused by the ever changing views 

The Cuillin from the living area - taken around 22.30
Fifteen minutes later - can you see the fascination / distraction factor/

or wandering around the croft planning what might go where but we will get up and out unless of course, we don't. The sheer delight of not having to be anywhere, anytime cannot be over stated.

Tuesday, 3 June 2014

A very belated update - with thanks to Plusnet and BT

OK so we have moved across the sea to Skye, settled in to our new home and furnished it with many lovely things.
There is, of course, a tale to tell. Where to start.

So we moved on April 8th as planned, the removal van with all our wordly goods followed across the wild lands of Glen Shiel and parked up in the drive overnight. (removal men at the pub overnight) Van unloaded and away by 11.00 the next day. And off we went, unpacking essentials first then moving things around and around until we were satisfied. 

House, drive, car and house sign
Meanwhile, appointments booked for phones, Sky TV, blinds, carpet. You get the picture.
No sign of the promised BT engineer (via Plusnet) A very dodgy mobile phone signal meant that the necessary phone call of at least 30 minutes was trying to say the least. Still they promised to sort it out Unfortunately their preferred method of communication was by email - not so easy when you have no internet and an intermittent signal. I had agreed to continue to work on a remote basis for three days a week until the end of June. Not worrying yet as it would be sorted by next week wouldn't it?

In that first week we were connected to Sky despite appalling weather as Bobbie went up the ladder. Worked perfectly. We also admired the carpet on the mezzanine and ordered the blinds for bedrooms, mezzanine and the lounge. All going well so far and the house was taking shape nicely. 

View from our lounge - not bad
Finally contact from Plusnet - the amended appointment was for 1st May. Not good as remote working was due to start on 16 April. Without boring you with the details, I found many ways around the problem and anyway I was travelling to Alloa for three days at the end of April so beyond that we would be connected and I could work remotely, working on-line, tele and video conferencing as required.  Even prepared for a bit of Facetime.
That first trip was by train on one of the most beautiful days this year. Via Plockton and Glen Carron to Inverness then to Stirling. Beautiful views, blue skies, yellow gorse and white beaches and quartz mountains followed by the Cairngorms. 

Then three manic days back at work and back on the reverse journey. Just wanted it done on the way back.  Eventually got home at 22.00.

The 1st May happened while I was away and guess what - no BT engineer although Gary did spot someone in a high vis vest close to a telegraph pole. However no connection. Many tense and increasingly frustrated conversation with Plusnet later, we were still none the wiser as to when we might be connected. 
We made the most of almost two weeks of good weather and started to explore our "local" hills. Don't be fooled by the easier walks. There are no gentle walks in the Cuillins but it was good to be out and about and start to understand just what was on our doorstep. 
Fairy Pools - a nice circular walk involving a tourist hot spot

Into Coire Bhasteir - dangerous territory and not for us just yet

Plenty of snow left in the corries. Steep, dangerous and for climbers only or those with a guide booked. We were back in Alloa two weeks later then off on our road trip. To Cumbria for a day's walking and to break the journey then on to Devon for a five day visit. Plenty of shopping, getting reacquainted with great nieces & nephew, some good weather and then some rain. Stopped over in Wales on the way back enjoying a day of Welsh downpour when we could hear the boulders rolling down the river - scary. Then a day when we snatched a three hour walk between the heavy showers. Back up the motorway to Tarbet on Loch Lomond for a final night's rest in a lovely B&B before heading the final five hours to home. 

In breaking news - the MIDGES have arrived and they are hungry. First noticed while walking to the pub for dinner in Tarbet. 
Then the final drive home through Glen Coe, Fort William and Glen Shiel and over the bridge.
Nice to see the house again. All was in order and still looking as good as ever. The croftland is growing back and the greenery is approaching the house by the day.

Still no connection but we had given up hope by now. I was working in different laybys where I could get a signal to download emails / documents via the ipad. We took advantage of wifi wherever we could find it - pubs, community hall, the builder's yard. Everything took three times longer than it should have. 

On the plus side, if you have to work from a layby then this one isn't bad!
View from the "office"
Good on a breezy day but challenging when warm, cloudy and midgey! Many hours spent surrounded by two phones, an ipad, documents, notebooks and laptop attempting to work. Bemused glances from other users of the layby enjoying the view.

Back to the midge - given that Skye is also known as the Windy Isle, we need an explanation of the three absolutely still days that resulted in an explosion of the mighty midge. They don't actually swarm into the house but they do sneak in and build up in layers at the windows. And give out the odd bite to those if us that taste nice (me). Raid kills them though and the Avon wonder spray repels them nicely.

So some readers will have made the link to the fact that I am writing again. Last Friday, with no warning or communication, we woke up to find the drive blocked by two BT lorries and our very own telegraph pole.
Our very own telegraph pole - back in the world of the web

Following a quick visit to the house and a test phone call we were connected. No wait for an engineer's visit, no five day wait for broadband. No one told Plusnet though! They finally called on Monday to inform me that work was complete and they could now look into connecting the line. Four times. Words failed me - although not for long. Would I like to complete their customer feedback form? Yes I would.

So eight weeks catch up squashed into a few paragraphs dominated by the lack of connectivity. You have no idea of how much you miss it until you don't have it.

We have:
Settled in to our house and met the neighbours and some of the surrounding community
Set up the weather station (Fernilea Weather) with two webcams showing the views or lack of them on some days
Learned how to identify tourists by their driving. Hard braking, photo stops without warning, no concept of single track roads & passing places
Watched some beautiful sunsets and changing light over the mountains
Seen many rainbows across the loch and on the croft -in brilliant technicolour
Started to explore the mountains and will be prepared for anything. No easy walks here
Learned to be creative in order to work, bank and communicate. There is always a Plan B

This Monday, the materials for the shed base were delivered, our bins finally arrived and the problem with drainage sorted out. 
It's full steam ahead now with a shed to be built, decisions about the croft and what we do with it and easing into Skye life once June is over. Can't wait and who knows it might be a tale worth telling! 

Watch this space or a redirection to another space where the tale will continue in due course. 
Skye Living (the Dream)

 

Tuesday, 1 April 2014

The Final Countdown

So here we are - 6 days to go as I write. 

Removers booked - check
Many institutions and organisations told of our intention to move - check
Phone, TV, carpet and Bin installations arranged - check
A million and one other things to do listed and being ticked off daily

The end of a three year journey is just six days away. 

We spent last weekend on the Misty Isle; the first two nights in a pre-booked hotel and the third night on a dusty floor in our new house.  

Sunrise over Portree - this is why we want to move here for those that are asking that question

Visited the house on the Friday morning to find it still pretty cluttered and busy but with the prospect of cleaning and tidying on the horizon. "It's only a day behind" - and we believed. 

Back to our perfectly nice hotel in Portree, complete with good food and friendly staff for the Friday night. We had told James that we would be back to the house on Saturday and might be staying the night. He looked slightly worried but said OK then. 
There was the small matter of the forgotten wardrobes and a few minor snags to be sorted but there was definitely progress - almost the full monty. I will leave the photos to tell the story. 

Friday - a bit of clearing and tidying still to be done

Saturday PM. Looking better. Beautiful kitchen / diner

Living space - cosy
Patio taking shape - wardrobes being carpentered up outside
New access road - just needs the top dressing
We had brought a car load of stuff including a couple of chairs, an inflatable bed and various other things including a kettle and mugs for the first coffee. Dithered around the house switching on lights, peering into spaces and cupboards, tested the ovens and dishwater and decided that we would stay.
So by 16.00 on Saturday we were on our own. Time to "make" the bed, scatter the other things around and settle down for the evening. Tried the "Slig" for food, OK but definitely not yet in full swing with new staff, a good chef and unable to open the walkers bar yet as the kitchen can't cope with the numbers. Food good, service OK. 

A peaceful night that felt as if it was under the stars despite being indoors. It was just lovely being in our own house even if it was rather dusty despite best efforts. We slept well but woke early - clocks changed and no window coverings so first light woke us. 
We were packed up and away by 07.30, stopped at Fort William for breakfast with a coffee stop en-route that we shared with a coachload of Austrian students - that was fun. Good view, shame about the noise. Still they were enjoying themselves. 

Back to Fishcross where we did more packing, made more lists and started our final week in Clackmannanshire. 

This time next week ................. 

Can't believe we are so nearly there.

Saturday, 1 March 2014

Final visit before handover - a little worrying!

Accommodation at the Old Inn, one mile from the house - booked. 
Food available on site - checked. 
Weather for the weekend - out of our control so go prepared for anything. 

Travelled via Glen Coe which was looking VERY snowy above 400m. Plenty of skiers in evidence but roads not too bad. Decided to try the swap every hour approach to driving and found it to be much better for heads, legs and sleepiness.

Checked in just after 4pm. Pub was busy and the room was fine. The room was away from the pub so shouldn't be too noisy. Lochside views, comfy bed and perfectly acceptable shower etc. A wee bit tired looking but everything required to stay over. Dinner at the pub with a limited menu but hot food, well cooked. It was very windy, the wind howled all night, trees were shaking and various things were being blown all over the loch shore. However, we slept fine and woke for a decent breakfast and a day out. 

Headed to the north of the Island, way past Dunvegan where we planned to walk to the famous coral beaches. Miles of single track road again to a huge carpark with only one other car in it when we arrived. We were wise to stay low - as in beach level - it was wild with heavy showers, high winds and the waves were crashing onto the rocks. The beaches are only a couple of miles walk and we were wind-assisted on the way out. The first beach was a victim of the weather and covered in seaweed, the white coral had been blown up onto the grass. A bit further on, across a flooded field with two interesting crossings of streams in spate, we slipped down to the second beach. A perfect white crescent with clear blue/green water in the bay. It was beautiful, even in a storm. We had a brief weather window so walked on over the rise to the point where a heavy rainshower arrived along with even higher winds. No shelter to be found so we turned faces to the wind and made heavy work of returning. Luckily it stopped raining but the winds remained at storm force making for some interesting footwork to make progress.  On the way back to the pub we had to stop driving due to the heaviest hailstorm I have ever experienced. No visibility at all, driving hail and the car being rocked by the force of the wind. 

Before we stopped at the pub we headed up to the house site for a sneaky preview. Luckily a conversation with Neil had prepared us for not as much progress as we had hoped. We could see that some things had been done though.

A second meal at the pub - the remaining items on the menu just to ring the changes then bed. 
Spoke to a chap from the Wirral who had ventured up The Old Man of Storr today - "That was a mistake"  Dangerous even at that relatively low level. Glad we stuck to the beach. 

So bright and early next morning we arrived on site. Sandy (foreman) was on site and explained what had been done (flooring, some tiling, bathroom fittings) He had been away for a while but was confident they would make up the time. Jon, our QS was also on site so we had a while to talk about the cost of the extras we had approved so far. He seemed to think progress would be fine over the next few weeks too. 

So here are the photos of progress such as it has been:

Interior doors being made ready
Oak flooring in the lounge
En-suite bathroom shaping up nicely. Note the storage niche & controls away from water!
View from our bedroom. I may just stay in bed on poor weather days!
Wood burning stove ready for the fitting
This space will be storage in the lounge, hidden away behind white doors
So it was possible to see some progress and we did some more measuring up for mirrors, bathroom fittings and other niceties. Then headed off on the road home. This time up Glen Carron via the road that was closed for weeks because of landslips. Interesting and very high water levels on the loch. We had lunch in a layby overlooking more snowy mountains, sitting on the tailgate in the sun. First appearance for the sun this year and it felt warm. 

Down the A9 where we broke the journey at House of Bruar neat Blair Atholl. This was a shopping extravaganza and we decided it was Posh Scotland under one roof with tweeds, shooting sticks, fishing paraphernalia, an art gallery, food hall and clothing. A good browse though and we bought some Granny Sookers for the girls in the office. 

Back home now, enjoyed a four season walk up Ben A'an. Warm and wet in the car park; autumn colours in the trees, rain then sleet then blizzard higher up then warm sunshine on the summit. Fleeting glimpses of Loch Katrine and Ben Venue through the drifting cloud.  Gullies on Venue filled with snow. A fine day out and a challenging little hill. Met a fair few folk out and about enjoying one of the best days this year.    

And we missed the Aurora Borealis by a few days. It was stunning over Glendale on Skye - as well as other parts of the highlands and as far south as Norfolk. No sight of it in Alloa; we did take a peek late at night but just clouds here. It will just have to stay on my bucket list for now. 

Future visits: Hope to arrange handover for 28 March. Staying in Portree as recommended by chap in the pub.  Removal firm tentatively booked for 7/8 April, however we have a plan B just in case. Notice given on the rented house. Warning - if you have a spare room and a washing machine and we have to implement Plan B, you might be on the list!

Five weeks to go ........ Keep watching this space.