An offer we hope they can't refuse

It appears that we have been cleared as far as the ID verification stage of purchasing a plot and land in Scotland (with thanks to our solicitor in Devon) so we are now at the point where we can make an offer for both the plot and the land.

Have just spoken with Mr McPhee who will shortly be talking to Alison at the IoS estate agency to discuss the market rate for 6 acres and a house site. We will apparently be starting at a lower price than the owner would like to achieve but that's OK with us!

Mary's colleague has visited the site and in her opinion "it's great" so we are just waiting to speak with her to discuss the next steps - assuming we manage to conclude a deal and actually buy it.

This is the link to the plot on the IoS website for those interested to see where we might be living in two years time.

http://www.iosea.co.uk/2080.shtml
The suggestion is that the house is built as far out towards the loch as possible to make the most of the elevation and the views across the loch and eastwards to the Cuillins (plenty of sunrise photos in the offing there in the future). Also the option for our very own "living window" framing the mountains if we can design it in.

Otherwise life is carrying on as normal as we wait for an exchange date for this house sale after which we will be able to better plan our departure and entry to the rental market.  Where to live??


Despite the warmer July weather and the appearance, finally, of the summer, we managed to get absolutely soaked last week on a walk on North Dartmoor; too wet to complete the planned walk but we did manage six miles and a bit of exercise. Followed by a good seven and a half miles around Sidmouth yesterday. Hoping to hit Fur Tor in the centre of Dartmoor tomorrow - carrying plenty of water (more than 5 litres between us) to avoid dehydration.

Hope to have further news this week - watch this space.

Of Solicitors and Sales

What a week!

So, we have an offer for our house which we have negotiated on and agreed to meet in the middle. House sold (stc as they say) Likely to be completing in September.
We have decided on 5 Fernilea as the plot for us - with the extra land; price yet to be agreed
Have found a Scottish solicitor willing to represent us in the purchase of the land and plot
Have appointed a local solicitor to deal with the sale of the house in Devon
Have asked Mary from Dualchas to visit the plot and consider:
1: The house potential and design options, given the plot orientation
2: The water situation - either a connection via Scottish Water or a borehole
3: Is it feasible to remove the bushes to confirm the view is as it should be? (She is taking a colleague and strimmer with her)
4: Access and boundaries to the plot 
This is all planned for next week although we will have to check on progress.

Next steps - go through the money laundering procedures with both sets of solicitors; make a conditional offer for the plot and land - this follows our expression of interest but is not a formal offer to buy - then let the negotiations commence; really start the design process in earnest; find somewhere to live for the next 12 - 18 months; agree a price for the plot and apply for detailed planning permission; start the build. 
Sounds easy doesn't it?


All of the above to be done from a distance of over 600 miles, thank heavens for email, mobile communications and the internet.


Gary has downloaded CAD software so we are spending a happy afternoon designing for real!
If we can work out exactly how to use it!

A return to Devon and time for a good old think

Two days of travelling back through the highlands and today, the joys of the M6 and the M5 again. We were lucky on both days and didn't experience any delays or hold-ups.
In case you're travelling in the north - the travelling community (AKA p...ys) are also on the move swinging their caravans and dodgy vans all over the place.
We stopped and swapped the driving every two hours; had lunch in a glorious position overlooking Glen Coe - away from the crowds in "the" layby. 
Arrived at the travel lodge in time to purchase a reasonable dinner from M&S which was eaten in the splendour of a travel lodge bedroom. Should probably mention at this point that we almost had to go round again as I completely missed the turn for the travel lodge and had to carry out some dodgy maneuvers to get there. That would have been a fun trip down the M6 then back again!  Was right about the wifi connection - yes it was available but £5 for 1 hour. Even the dodgiest B&B had wifi available at no cost. Hotels are going to have to improve on this in the future; it's outrageous practice to charge for one hour what it would cost for two weeks on average at home or in business. 

Sleeping in a service station is surprisingly quiet and I got the hairdryer on arrival. All pillows were allocated though with none extra to spare. Also had the best sized towels of the trip - best not to mention the quality though.

Decided to avoid the hot food on offer on site and stopped at Tebay for a really good, quality breakfast this morning.  Local farm-sourced food, good service and a nice environment.
One more stop en route and we drove on home.


To summarise the last two weeks


We have driven 2,124 miles; visited 17 potential house sites; shortlisted four sites - all of which would be perfectly suitable to build on; made some good contacts on Skye; stayed in some delightful and some dodgy B&Bs; enjoyed a week at Fisherman's Lodge and have made the decision that we will be building and living on Skye.


Message from the estate agents on Skye - the owners of the plot at Fernilea will consider selling half of the croft that surrounds the plot we enquired about. There is already a house site available and this would give us extra land that runs down to the loch. All we have to do is let the vendor's solicitor know what we would offer for the plot and croftland. OK then; quite a bit of thinking to do tomorrow!

We return to find out there is the possibility of an offer on the house - will find out more tomorrow. If so, then we really will be doing some serious planning over the next few weeks!
We will be speaking to a Scottish solicitor tomorrow;  need to understand crofting law, tenancy implications and expressions of interest.

Will update as and when things happen over the next few weeks.

The final shortlist and time to pack up (for now)

An earlyish start to make sure we get to Fiskavaig in good time for out 1100 appointment with Kenny. We spot the other plot on the way but decide to take a look after we have seen no 20.
Kenny is dead on time and shows us the easy way to reach the plot although we still have to scramble over knee length grass and boggy ground.
Oh; the plot we thought was for sale is in fact sold and the one we should have been looking at adjoins it. This is higher up the hill which is good but closer to the hillock which is not so good as it gets in the way of some of the view. The buyer of the first plot has agreed to put in the access road which is started but seems abandoned. There are more questions than answers after looking at this one (cue a song) We thank Kenny for his time.
We head back via Portnalong which sounds as if it should have a port and it does but nothing else to write home about. Stop at the last plot and over the ditch and into the thigh high ferns and ankle snagging heather. There is no noticeable stake anywhere in the ground so it is difficult to sketch out the plot from the plan. We think we have it. The position of this one is good with the Cuillins on the horizon and Loch Harport below. However there is the small matter of a clump of bushes and small trees that would get in the way of the view - if they were flattened and say, used as fuel, problem solved. We don't really know if they are within the plot's boundaries or on the croftland surrounding it. Decide to ask the agent; also decide to ask if the vendor would sell the whole croft which runs right down to the lochside. Well we can ask!
Off to the Sligachan Inn for lunch which turns out to be larger than anticipated. There are great views today, the sun is out and the temperature is approaching 20 degrees. A fine day to finish our holiday / search for a plot of land.
Sounds today are Rod Stewart, Status Quo and Springstein - a bit retro perhaps but good tunes and the opportunity for some air guitar.
A final visit to the Co-op in Broadford and we head off to take a look at Camus Cross and Isle Ornsay. Camus Cross is a lovely bay with views across to the mainland; some nice properties close to the water and we spy a couple of Mary's designs. Isle Ornsay appears to consist of a hotel and a gallery and not very much parking. Having just eaten and not needing any art, we turn it round and head for home.
A thorough review of the plots we have seen leads to the final, final shortlist of four. The 3 acre plot in Bornesketaig; the plot at Skinidin; and the two we have seen today. Will speak with Mary early next week and ask her to look at them for us. In the meantime, we need to find a solicitor. this feels as if it is really going to happen.
Later this afternoon we both take a walk around the bay and also walk around to see the house the couple next door have bought; this sale has been made on the condition that the existing house is demolished and they will rebuild. We think we find it and it is a decent sized plot but there is a ton of work to do. Wise words from Mary who said that buying a wreck of a house is just buying an expensive plot. Still we wish them well; particularly as they will be building most of it themselves (well David will)
We can hear a seal this evening but can't see it. Saw a pair of herons at Camus Cross. Rumour has it that there is a basking shark around the bay but no sign that I can see and these beasts are meant to be huge.
On the wildlife front we have done poorly. No eagles, sea otters or puffins. Irritatingly the village notice board lists a whole load of sightings - otters helpfully noted as being spotted "at the otter place"
Evening rain finished, sun and midges back, birds making their usual mad noises and a light dinner enjoyed. A small glass or two of chilled chablis to finish off the week and we will be done. We will miss this place.
Tomorrow this blog will be silent as we will be installed in the travel lodge in Carlisle (South) and I have no intention of paying to connect. Also planning to arrive as late as possible so we only have to sleep and shower there. Note to self, book the hairdryer on arrival - if someone else gets there first my hair will revert to type. Luckily I travel with the straighteners at all times.
So that's it folks for a short while. I will summarise on Sunday, journey permitting.
Will also be updating as we move things along and decide what plot to buy and learn where we will live in the time between selling up (hopefully) and moving into our new home. So keep checking; you never know when things will start to happen.
No photos today although I did take a few with my phone; unfortunately the sun was out and I was unable to see what I was doing. There may also be some unexpected video footage; this will be deleted forthwith as soon as I find out how to do it.
Till Sunday xx

A day of rest, reading and rain

A late start to the day and Gary is unwell with a cold / flu - just as well we were not planning to go far or visit any plots today.
We sit and listen to the rain, have a late breakfast and read voraciously.
I discover Monty Hall's "Beachcomber Cottage" on the bookshelves in the cottage and just have to read it. The book records six months of living in a croft at Applecross but ventures into Skye and the islands a fair bit. I remember the accompanying BBC programme and can now relate to quite a bit of the geography and scenery descriptions. A good couple of hours enjoyment.
I trawl off along the coast in the afternoon leaving Gary to rest and hopefully recover. As the tide is at its lowest, I find I can walk out to what would usually be islands in the bay. Do quite a bit of exploring of these rocky outcrops; there is no one in the bay apart from me. I walk for some distance along the coast, tripping over large pebbles and with the occasional slip on drying seaweed; enjoying the silence and the seabirds. (spot a heron and the usual oystercatchers and a variety of gulls) The sun peeps out and I take what I think are some good photos (soon to be disappointed when they are uploaded)
The best one is below when the wind dropped and there was almost a reflection.

View from hidden cottage

I discover a small cottage hidden at the back of one of the bays; you would never know it was here unless you were directed to it. It has a gate that leads directly into a small cove and looks straight across at the full Cuillin range. They are spread across the horizon in the just the same format that Mary's window seat looks out at.
Back at the cottage, we spend some time "designing" our perfect house - we will share these ideas with Mary to give her a starting point.
Having finished Monty's book, I have now found "Calum's Road" this tells the tales of the crofter (Calum MacCleod) who got fed up with waiting for the council to build a proper road to his house and settlement so decided to do it himself. This was in addition to crofting, delivering the post and occasional fishing and boat duties. Unsurprisingly it took him almost 20 years to complete the two miles across a hostile and undulating environment. The road and the making of it are now quite famous.
The road is on the island of Rasaay, between Skye and the mainland. Not quite as entertaining as Monty but a good read nonetheless. We have often seen the CalMac ferry going to and fro to Rasaay as we drive north on the island.
A peaceful and restful day is coming to an end and we are fast approaching the end of our two weeks away. Tomorrow is the day we meet the owner of one of the plots at Fiskavaig and we have one final plot to view on the road just out of Colbost; this last one stands above the loch with views out to sea as well as to the Cuillins.
Tomorrow could bring a decision - in principle at least. Then we just have to find a friendly lawyer, conversant in Scottish Law (including the crofting variety); submit a note of our interest / make an offer; ask Mary to view and comment on our choice(s); complete the purchase of the plot; agree the design; speak with the planners / amend or submit our design; apply to various for utility and water connections; tender the building work (through Mary) and finally - sometime in the too distant future - start building. Oh, and selling the house in Devon would help too. Seems to me that we could be actually living in our new house by 2015 if all goes smoothly!!
Still, it will be fun, exciting and worth it I'm sure. No doubt these words will return to haunt me over the next couple of years.

The plots thicken and thin out a little

Before I get going with today's blog I must share last night's sunset with you. The rain cleared but the clouds still looked threatening then suddenly the moon appeared, the clouds got moody and the sun set in splendour. We headed to the shore where the best views are - this is at 2300 by the way - and it seemed the whole population of Ord had grabbed their camera and headed out to capture the moment. Quite a way to meet the neighbours. Oh, and the midges also came out to play, swarming above everyone's head but once again no bites to report.

Tuesday 4 July, Ord IoS, 2300 hrs

Wednesday
Where to start?
The rain arrived as promised; it has been chucking it down all day. Perfect weather for fooling around in fields full of wet grass, mud and rocks.
Anyway, we set off on our day tour of Skye and ended up in Glendale via Portree and Dunvegan. On the small road to Glendale, we had remembered a plot for sale by an agent based in Inverness - a quick call gave us the OK to pitch up and take a look around the site. This plot has easy access, great views across the loch and already has permission for a Dualchas house. I confess we spent a fair amount of time climbing small knolls, placing the house to take advantage of the views and generally were quite struck with the plot.
On past Glendale and into Milovaig - all five of the plots were in Lower Milovaig. The first was struck off the list because of impeded views and a funny shape! However the location of the second and third was great with sweeping views out to sea from a high vantage point. Both of a similar size, although different in price.
The final two were difficult to locate but we (Gary) eventually managed to orientate the plot map properly and we realise that both plots are away from the sea and one of them will overlook an existing property. Strike both of these. We give another the heave-ho as we try and work out how the required access road would scale the small rockface that apparently made up part of the plot. The agent's details confirmed this with an arrow pointing skywards with the word "plot" attached.
We have one final, new addition, to look at but this is so new to market there is no agent's board yet, although we think we spot the digger working on the access road. Quite expensive this one as it is "almost lochside"
We decide to drive on to Struan where we have a final two plots to look at. It is still raining and as we arrive in Struan, Gary spots a coffee shop so we stop for fuel (coffee and cakes) and an interesting talk with the owner. The shop has been open for six weeks, is doing quite well and also sells books, clothes, crafty things and wool, presumably for weaving. A very interesting place. The owner moved to Skye six years ago and loves it; she also knows the owner of one of the plots in Fiskavaig. You can see Fiskavaig from here; it looks like a small Greek village scattered over the hill above the loch. However there is no blue sea today; steely grey water and low cloud instead. As well as the coffee and cakes, we end up buying two books and her partner in their other shop in Broadford puts the third in the series aside for us to pick up on our way through.
Following her directions, we walk to the final plot for today which sits beside The Old Manse; again a good size plot with much potential.
We have made arrangements to meet with the owner of the elevated plot in Fiskavaig on Friday morning and will re-visit any other plot deserving of a second look. We try hard to draw up a shortlist for Mary to visit as well as a list of questions for owners / agents. 
Exhausted, we wind our way home via Broadford (book duly purchased) It is still pouring down as we settle in back at the house. We have plenty to think about this evening. The sound of the rain on the velux windows is quite soothing - I am so glad that we are not in a tent. We did experience a quick power failure earlier, alerted by the house phone beeping in desparation but our only concern of "what about dinner" was never an issue because of the Aga. Plenty of natural light for several hours yet.
Power now restored - and apparently the lift will always work in a downward motion if the power fails; best not forget anything then or you would be stuffed. It's a very odd thing to take the lift to the kitchen in the morning to make the early cup of coffee; there are no internal stairs in the house.
Tomorrow has been declared a day of little driving; some walking in the forest just up the road and a visit to Isle Ornsay to walk to the beach and around its shores; perhaps a trip to Armadale where the ferry arrives from Mallaig.
Sound track today was Leonard Cohen, Robbie Williams and The Who. Yesterday on our way back from Glen Brittle, we listened to most of War of the Worlds. Brilliant.

Cuillins up close and the scarecrow trail

The weather looks good when we rise so we decide to take advantage and head for Glen Brittle and up into the high mountains. Although we can see the Cuillins from here, it takes ages (almost 90 minutes) to drive to Glen Brittle; a very pretty journey though until we turn off onto the road that leads to the parking spot.
This is a truly remote location, you drive along bleak moorland with no signs of any habitation at all for miles. Eventually the road drops steeply into the beginning of Glen Brittle and there are some forestry commission parking areas and a few cars. Not for us though and we continue on the road - an altercation with a 4x4 driver in a hurry who was NOT going to reverse - he just had to wait for me to do so, very slowly as it happened - he whirled past at speed and without a friendly wave!
Eventually we drive around the final corner and park up with a view out over the sea and the islands. Get the walking boots on and set off - there is only one way and that is up. The guidebook says 1,800 ft but omits to mention the gradient - and we are starting from sea level. 
We manage quite a good pace with frequent stops for taking on water and have the paths to ourselves. There were plenty of tents in the campsite (which doesn't share its toilet facilities and has a code lock on the doors) but very few people are out and about. The clouds hovering on the horizon may be one of the reasons. I did spot what I thought was a scarecrow placed on the shore but it moved and proved me wrong. (More of scarecrows later)
We carry on ever upwards and can see our path far ahead of us - it looks even steeper up there. This theory was proved to be right as we left the path junction needed on the return leg and entered the mountain proper. The path winds its way between huge boulders, over many gullies where there would normally be raging torrents and over what would be a particularly nasty river bed, complete with rockfall and slippy stones, in wetter times. We now hit a dilemma - do we go straight up the middle of a rock face, clambering up and over large boulders and chancing the loose stuff; or do we stay left, hug the cliff face and try a bit of scrambling. Should mention that I am flagging slightly at this stage and have slackened my pace completely; Gary still has breath enough to speak!
We go for the left-hand scramble and, although steep and unrelenting, it is a good way over the obstacles. Finally we pull ourselves over the lip of the small lochan and enjoy the view that makes it all worthwhile. We can see South Uist on the horizon, the islands of Rhum, Eigg and another small one and the mainland in the other direction.

Up above us looms the Black Cuillin ridge which runs for over 11 miles, is very jagged, with no escape route and no water source - so carry what you need and be prepared to be scared. .The famous Innaccesible Pinnacle (Inn Pinn) is up above us somewehere
Not for us today (or probably ever) so we find a nice sheltered spot for lunch and the rain arrives. We do get some respite and take some photographic evidence that we were here.
The next trick is to get back down safely - easier said than done when the earth is constantly moving under your feet. At least we have left our jeans at home, unlike the chap that heaves himself into view as we are setting off. At the far right of the cirque is a feature known as the Great Stone Shute - a huge fan of scree that takes the brave walker up through a breach in the cliffs to the ridge, 1,500 ft above. As we prepare to leave, we spot one such walker slipping and sliding down said chute (we can also hear him as hundreds of small stones are disturbed and roll down the almost sheer hillside)

path up/down scree

We decide to go for the rock cleft in descent as I am not good at scrambling downhill. The rain is making the rocks quite slippy now but we make it safely. We meet a party of four plus doberman wearing its own raincoat looking weary on their way up. At the junction of paths, we turn right and follow a relatively gentle path that descends beside a loch then follows a river to the road. There is one final treat in store; a stunning (even in dry weather) waterfall that drops at least 100ft into a crystal clear turquoise pool. I manage to take one photo before the rain returns with a vengeance. Initial rating was 4/10 until we dropped below it and saw the distance it dropped. In winter this would be magnificent and well worth the climb from the road. Regrade it to 6/10 today with potential to make 10/10. 

The final mile or so to the car is along the road so no trip hazards just the driving rain. Nice to see the warm, dry car waiting for us - dry clothes too. Final cup of coffee before we head back south. The mountains have disappeared in the clouds and the rain is sweeping across the glen. We are very pleased that we are heading home to an Aga-warmed house with showers, hot food and good wine. 
Later, suitably cleaned up and with the washing on; we try and eat out on the deck but finally the midges put in an appearance - there is no wind, the rain has stopped so they hover just over and around our heads. No bites to report just the irritating feeling that they are there and could bite at any moment.

Of scarecrows - there is a scarecrow trail on the Minginish Peninsula (take a look at a map of Skye and you will have the answer to the question - why so many peninsulas?) Every house seems to have made and dressed at least one scarecrow in their own particular style. We have seen old scarecrows on walking frames, scarecrows in saris, life jackets, pirate attire, old sea dogs as well as Elvis and one that was flying in the wind. There are literally hundreds and they are truly brilliant. Every bus shelter has its own scarecrow. We will try and find out the reason and the rationale though I suspect it just happens each year. We saw one in Glen Brittle but otherwise they are located along just one road. I particularly like the disco scarecrow and the climbing scarecrow complete with harness and ropes.

Tomorrow is back to plot hunting in the north west of the island. We should then be able to draw up the true shortlist.

Fiskavaig plots, a visit to Mary and visitors to Ord. PS: It's Skye for us.

A beautiful clear and still morning with the Cuillins looking close enough to touch and the water so clear you can see the fish in it.

clear water but no fish

 After a further chat with our nearest neighbours, who have just bought their own plot of land just up the road where they are going to build their new home, we decide that today is a plot hunting kind of day and head off to the west coast. Look at one plot at Satran, immediately re-named Satan by Gary, but it is not for us as it is at the very end of the loch and for most of the day the view would be of seaweed.
The soundtrack for today's drive is Paranoid by Black Sabbath (1970) would be a bit of head-banging and air guitar if Gary wasn't driving - some good singing along though.
Fiskavaig is another of those villages at the end of a long road. There are bus stops everywhere and we pass the Talisker distillery en-route. The road is stunning with views over Loch Harport in one direction and the mountains in the other. To day the loch is blue and sparkly - a perfect plot searching day.
We drive past the first site, note the second and find the third. This plot is high up with a good view over the bay; however there is a second plot that will only be released once plot 1 has been built on. Hmm, could be a problem later when someone plonks their house directly in front of your view! Place this one in the "to be considered further" pile.
We saw the new access road to number 20 and decide to park up and walk to the house site. The access road is long and climbs steadily - could be some future maintenance costs here - but once you reach the levelled house site, the views and the silence are glorious. We spend quite a bit of time walking the boundary and checking various other bits of the plot. This is quite large (0.8 of an acre) and nothing could impede the view in the future. Decide we quite like this one!
Back to the road and on to number 25, which has four plots for sale. We can't see them for looking although we are convinced that we are in the right place. Gary spies a chap strimming and asks him if he knows where the plots are. He is very friendly and gives us chapter and verse. No wonder we struggled - they are where we thought they might be and marked out by a single post planted in the centre of each. Given that the weeds / grass is thigh high in places, spotting a very small marker post is nigh on impossible. We had written them off as having no view but the chap suggested climbing through the field up to plot no 1 which does indeed boast a view to MaCleods tables (mountains), the loch and its islands and the outer hebrides. Decide we quite like this one too.
It is now well past lunchtime so we retreat to the Old Inn at Colbost for a well deserved lunch.
Head into Portree after lunch to pick up details of a couple more plots and to replenish supplies then head back with a coffe stop in a layby with a view of the Cuillins from a different angle. On the way back to Ord, we spot Mary cycling home from work ( at least 10 miles with lots of ups)
Home, shower, change and drive over the two hills to Mary's house. She and her guest are eating dinner although she doesn't let that stop her showing us around. We are on time and not late for once. The house is truly wonderful, on an elevated site with a picture window that captures the mountains as if they were a living picture. I would just sit there all day and never go out. Otherwise, the house is open, airy and takes advantage of natural light from every angle. We think we can do business with her and she thinks she can work with us. So far, so good. Now we just need a plot.
We head back over the hills for a snack, having eaten well at lunchtime. As we move out to the balcony. Mary and friend Richard arrive in Ord for a spot of evening kayaking. It is pretty cool on the deck, goodness knows what it is like on the water. At the other end of the beach, several children get very wet indeed wading out to a small island then back again. There are also two fisherman fishing in the shallows. We amuse ourselves by watching Mary and Richard kayak, practice capsizing and rolls and sit smugly (and well wrapped) on the deck watching and making sympathetic noises. We had offered wine but unsurprisingly they head back to Toskavaig to get clean and warm up.
Rearrange our plot list, disposing of a couple and realising that we have 7/8 to look at around Glendale later this week. We have agreed with Mary that we will make a very short shortlist and she will take a look at our favoured plots for us.
Tomorrow is another walking day and we plan to head into the high hills. Wednesday's weather is less favourable with rain forecast so we will carry out final plot visits then. Including meeting some of the owners for more detailed discussions.
Still broad daylight, the trouble is your brain / bodyclock doesn't think it is bedtime yet so you keep writing / reading until suddenly it is well past bedtime. It is still as can be outside at the moment with the sounds of silence. Wonderful.
Thanks to Janette for her mystery bird reply  - she could be right about the juvenile golden plover.
We have absolutely no mobile phone coverage here and the broadband connection is quite slow so will be picking up emails but not texts or calls; emails do come in but erratic and response may be slow.

PS: At least one decision is made - we will be building on Skye; more leisure activities, more choice of plot and more acreage available. PPS: We will be travelling to the Outer Hebrides often.

A medium effort walk and a super-sized horsefly!

Last night's sunset photo for your delight. Cuillins in the background.

Sunset first night 2210 hours

Have a quick conversation with our neighbour (from Cambridge) before heading off at a leisurely pace this morning. The chap is about to drive for many miles for the Sunday papers - what is it with men and their need for the papers? As we drive across the moorland road, we see two huge birds circling above the hills, but have no idea what they might be.
To get to the start of the walk just drive to the end of the road and park behind the church - sounds easy doesn't it? You have already heard about the roads here; imagine what the very end of one looks and drives like. This is as far south as it is possible to go on Skye.
The guidebook suggests 5 miles and 4 hours walking so a clue in the time required that this is not going to be on easy tracks. Starts off uphill for half a mile then winds up and down between the hills until we can see the sea. It is somewhere in this maze of paths that a huge horsefly takes a fancy to my arm, draws blood and is given the brush off by Gary. Within minutes I have an arm the size of a small car - OK exaggerating but it did swell up quite a lot. Do we have the anti-histamine pills or bite cream with us - no they are 10 miles away. So suffer but not in silence. 
We decide to climb the hill with the cairns, which means walking through someone's garden (with their permission) and scrambling over rocks, stones and boggy grass to get to the start of the climb. We climb to the top and perch on the top of the craggy bit of land for our lunch. The other side of the outcrop falls away very steeply onto rocks below. We are careful to tie everything down / sit on things to avoid losing anything. I have to report sunny, warm weather again and views to Rhum and Eigg that are just wonderful.

Eigg for lunch

On the way back down we stop and chat to the man who lives in the cottage whose garden we are tramping though - Gary admires his generator and he informs us that he is installing a wind turbine and is making / storing electricity from the PV cells he has already installed. He is living completely "off the grid" and will presumable make money from the government's buy-back tariffs. We decide that living at the end of the road and then two and a half miles down a rough track is a bit too remote for us! He seems very happy though.
Back up the track until we reach the turn off for the Point of Sleat. Half a mile it says so we decide it would be a shame not to, seeing as we are so close. We pass a glorious white sandy beach complete with turquoise water with people swimming in it, picnickers on the rocks and plenty of generally summery things going on. The switchback starts again and we go up and up then down into a ravine, over stones thoughtfully placed across the peat bog and end up on the "storm beach" where all kinds of things are washed up. Final up on springy turf (aka the machair) and we see the lighthouse and the end of Skye. The guidebook was correct, the views are stunning and you could play spot that peak for hours. The whole of the west coast and its mountains are available to view. We don't spy any of the marine wildlife described in the guidebook though and it feels like we have walked a lot more than half a mile.
A quick cup of coffee, a sit in the sun and we turn around to retrace our steps. It is at this point that I remember how steep the descents were on the way down; and therefore how steep the ascents will be on the way back. As it turns out, we tramp along quite well and make good time back to the car. Not as good time as the very old landrover that passes us on the track (J reg and looking it)
We decide to take the township road back to the cottage - 10 miles of single track that takes us past Mary's house - we only meet one car and see two others parked up. Go through two settlements before we spot Mary's house. She has suggested that we could walk to hers on Monday night. We clock the distance as just over a mile and a half but also clock the gradient of the two hills involved! We will be driving.
After a fine dinner cooked by the Aga and eaten on the deck, it is time to watch another fine sunset over the water and relax with a glass of something cool.

Six plots, a stunning drive and Fisherman's Loft in Ord

The breakfast at Cuil Lodge was as good as expected and we ate well and chatted to our hosts. We then return to the Trotternish Peninsula to take another look at three plots - successfully finding no 21 this time. All three have different merits and glorious views - especially today when it is clear, warm and almost sunny. One has the access road built and someone has started on the foundation slabs - must check it has not been sold. We have three more plots to view; one on the road to Dunvegan and two on the Waternish peninsula itself. The first plot is too closed in so it is disregarded. The furtherest plot on the peninsula has been dug out and looks east with unrestricted views out to sea - it is a bit small and the land is steep but it is a very peaceful location; we don't strike it off the list. The final plot is in an area called Lochs and looks west across the sea to some small islands; this is quite nice too! Not doing too well in terms of dismissing at least some of the plots we see.

Decide to drive the west coast route down to Ord; this turns out to be one of the most scenic drives we have ever done, with the Cuillin mountain range in full view with different perspectives at every twist and turn of the road. Weather-wise it is 18 degrees, sunny and calm. At many places on this road we say "must come back and explore here" Also spot some great places for photos later.
We stop off for supplies in Broadford, as Ord seems quite remote looking at the map, so we stock up on essentials like wine and cheese.
We then take the road to the ferry (for Mallaig) and turn off this onto a very small road - instructions say 15 minutes drive even though it is only 4 miles. We time it and you couldn't do it safely in less time so the owners do know what they are talking about.
Arrive in Ord which comprises about 12 properties and follow the twisty directions to the door of the Fisherman's Loft. The clue is in the name and the cottage sits on its own little peninsula with nothing but water all around. It has been tastefully (and expensively) renovated with living space upstairs - accessed via a three person lift. There is a deck which looks over rocks and water. I am writing this sitting on the deck, sipping red wine and it feels as if we are on a island; the tide is in and there is water on three sides. The only sound is of birds and the waves slurping on the shore. The sky is clearing to present us with a pure blue sky, the wind has disappeared and the sun will set (eventually and probably close to midnight) behind the Cuillins. Why would we want to be anywhere else?  I have never stayed anywhere like this before.

View from deck

We have an Aga to cook on / with and the first foray proves to be successful with a fine dinner produced and eaten. It does make the kitchen a very hot place at all times but we are just relieved that the food we put in was cooked as we hoped. We have also managed to do all of the washing we have accumulated over the week so will look clean and presentable tomorrow.
Gary has set the camera up on the deck - on auto - so that we will have photos of the ever-changing view taken every 25 minutes; will be interesting to see how they turn out.
Have planned to walk to the end of the Sleat peninsula tomorrow; 8 miles and not too strenuous and of course, the views are stunning, according to several guidebooks. We can see the road to where Mary lives, in fact we watched a motorhome struggle and fail to negotiate the steep bends earlier although he made it on the second attempt.
Have now uploaded photos as promised for Wednesday and Thursday so you can view the pictorial diary, We do need positive ID for the bird we saw on Thursday; have used the RSPB guide to tentatively identify it but..... not 100% sure.
The tide is on the turn, swallows swooping over the water and we have to wear our sunglasses to be able to see anything. Oh, and the sun is still warm! .... and there are no midges (yet)
The visitors' book for this place promises all kinds of wildlife - so far we have only seen common seabirds and the odd rabbit. Keeping an eye open for otters, eagles, dolphins and seals. All available to view from the comfort of your own deck / living space!
A very positive day with no niggles and a sunny, happy ending. 
I think we will enjoy our week here.

Beaches, the ferry and a wee dram

So, today we left Avalon B&B with no regrets (no tears goodbye etc etc (Walker brothers)) after a final breakfast and the handing over of cash. We drove to Horgabost beach where we walked to the end of the beach - pretty though it was, there was no comparison with the waves or the light in April but in compensation we did see the tractor launching the RIB that would take visitors to Taransay - although we didn't see any passengers. We considered walking to the headland but a fence was in the way so we drove to the next beach instead and parked up overlooking one of the most beautiful stretches of white sand possibly in the world, definitely in Europe. 
We then approached the headland from the other side, across the beach and into the dunes then uphill but thankfully not for long. (Muscles still remembering yesterday's exertions) 
Past the standing stone and up to the cairn where we had the best view yet of Taransay. We hear that it has just been sold - lucky beggars. Had our lunch at this glorious spot.
As always on this island, time runs away and it is time to head back to Tarbert for the ferry. It is a very busy ferry with all lines full of vehicles; we are one of the first to drive on and get handed a small red card on leaving the car - this time we are on the mezzanine deck which means the car will be elevated to a "floating" deck and we will be one of the last to leave.
Up on deck, the wind is blowing and it is cool enough for hats and gloves (today is the 1st July) The passengers are a cosmopolitan mix and we hear American, German, Australian and Scandinavian accents to name but a few. We leave precisely on time and watch Harris and Scalpay fade into the distance. 

Scalpay Bridge  from ferry

What is certain is that we will return to this beautiful island - possibly in November when Gary may well get his wish for a choppy crossing with "green water hitting the observation deck windows" The crossing today is smooth with not a roll in sight.
When we eventually drive off the ferry, having explained that there isn't a door to the mezzanine level; it is simply an elevated car deck to a confused american couple; we decide to wait for the traffic to ease before we head for the next and last B&B of this trip.
The Cuil Lodge B&B exemplifies everything a B&B should be - a warm welcome including decent coffee and shortbread; a small but beautifully appointed room with a view; no rules; information about the area and a guest lounge. We do still have to order breakfast though and the towels only just make it!
After a quick shower, we walk to the Ferry Inn which is 5 minutes away. A decent dinner followed by an exploration of the whiskies available in the lounge bar. The sound track during dinner included Mud classics, The Detroit Emeralds, The Iseley Brothers and Doctor Hook - obviously put together by someone from our own era.
Gary tries the Tobermory whisky. which leads to many Wombles songs and quotations and I try and like a Macallan single malt. We walk happliy back through the odd midge swarm, there being absolutely no wind this evening but no bites to report.
And so to bed with a view over the loch where the tide is swarming in quietly and the sun must be close to setting.
Tomorrow is plot visiting day before we head south to our home for the week.
Forgot to mention that we are meeting Mary on Monday evening at her house. which is only two miles from where we are staying, so that we can view a quarter acre plot and see the design mistakes she made and we can learn from.


Once again, pictures to follow! Will upload tomorrow.


From a very peaceful Cuil Lodge in Uig.