From an island to an island

A week on Arran.
Worked it out that between visits to the plot/house, visits to Devon and Wales we haven't had a week's holiday since last September when we visited Assynt. Time to put that right.

So to Arran it was and off we went on the Friday to Largs, expecting to be held up in numerous roadworks with convoy systems in place. Except, it didn't happen and we drove through the highlands with only minor delays arriving in Largs around 17.30. Found the hotel then time for a stroll along the Promenade before dinner. Largs is a bit like Paignton but slightly more upmarket. Our hotel looked a little tired but the room was comfortable, we had a sea view from the en-suite and a view into the neighbours' kitchen from the bedroom. Dinner was very nice and very reasonably priced. A good start to the week. 

We had time to kill on the Saturday, being booked on the 15.15 ferry crossing. Took advantage of the later breakfast and checkout then did our holiday food shop at Tesco just up the road. Visited Troon - a bit disappointing but found a huge B&Q at Saltcoats which provided a welcome distraction and some retail therapy.The spoils stayed in the car boot for the next week - replacement doormats and seed trays. We were still amongst the first in the ferry queue. A coach load of young people arrived shortly after us. Decision to stay on the outer deck well founded. We watched just about every young girl from the coach party do the "Titanic" pose as we headed across the Firth of Clyde towards Arran.  The boys just shivered about in their t-shirts. 

First sight of Arran from the ferry. Goatfell clear to see

Turn left at Brodick and drive for 12 miles, 30 minutes (really? Yes the roads are as interesting as on Skye) and you will reach Kildonan where we have booked a house for the week. All in order except no towels anywhere to be seen. A couple of calls later and the key to the linen cupboard arrives along with the housekeeper - unaware that we were staying apparently. At least the house had been cleaned, last week presumably. We have a house very close to the shore with views out to Pladda island and Ailsa Crag. Beautiful blue skies, sunshine and a hotel with good food and a wonderful terrace 10 minutes walk down the road. 

Sunday: Decided to head for the beach at Blackwater Foot and walk to some caves. A day of brilliant sunshine, calm blue seas and quite warm. The September brilliance continues. The walk was on a sandy beach to start with but the challenge soon presented itself as the "path" wound through boulders below a steep cliff. Huge boulders with brambles, nettles and steep and rocky drops between them. Following a party of youths with a spring in their step and no apparent regard for the possibility of ankle breaking terrain, we eventually made it through. 

Walked along the base of this cliff to get to this beach and the caves

Walked across another beach then through head high bracken until we reached the caves. Peered in, dank, dripping and connected through dark tunnels, a quick look was enough for me. You could go through a gate and explore further if you had the inclination but we sat on a conveniently placed log and enjoyed our lunch. 

View across to the mainland at Kintyre (luckily, no song)

Unfortunately the name of the place resulted in Gary singing Blackfoot Sue at every opportunity for the remainder of the week - and playing it incessantly when we got home. It will be forever associated with Arran.


It was flat calm and we enjoyed the warmth of the sun and being beside the sea. Walked back across the cliff tops and the edges of a golf course which was much tamer and easier. An ice cream was in order to finish off the day then it was back to Kildonan for dinner at the hotel and a superb sunset. 

Not the best sunset photo as taken on my phone through a window!

Waling back from the hotel at dusk, we were mesmerised by a moving rock. Not the wine as it turned out but one of a number of seals that frequent the area - more of those later. 

Monday - too good a forecast to waste so it was off to Goatfell. This is the highest point on the island. The start of the walk passes a brewery which we clocked for later. An easy path up through the trees which climbed steadily until it reached open hillside. Goatfell came into view as we reached a bridge where we stopped for coffee.

Coffee stop, Goatfell summit in background

The first of the ferry / bus walkers passed us here. Until then we had only met two other groups. Good views opening up back towards Brodick. 
The next stage of the walk crosses moorland on a good path, still climbing up but relatively easy. We could see the final ridge and summit clearly now. It was another blue sky day although cooler than yesterday. A few wisps of cloud floated in and out just adding to the beauty. The path from Corry met our path and they joined for the final pull to the summit. 

The meeting of the paths with a view across Brodick to Holy Island in the distance

Someone could have warned me that the final third was 1) never ending and 2) surprisingly steep. Winding up through huge boulders with steps way too big for someone with my size legs.

Up we go

 It took much longer than expected but we eventually popped out on the summit to join the crowds of sweaty walkers who had made it. We could see the other Arran hills from here and they were magnificent for such a small island range. Quite ridge-like and scary looking in parts and certainly not a walk in the park.  Lunch,  many drinks and photos then back the way we had come up as the alternative would leave us with a 2 mile road walk back to the car. 
Different photographer / camera for the summit shots:

The descent was OK as it is easier to go down large drops than up. The walking poles helped too. Back at the car then home for dinner. In summary, a hill not to be under-estimated even if it doesn't quite make it to Munro status.   

Tuesday - today we walked the shore close to the house and discovered a path than followed the coast around to the headland. A good walk that brings you up close to what seemed like hundreds of seals. They had hauled themselves out onto the flat rocks and formed banana-like shapes. Signs said the area was a designated "haul out" area and asked that you didn't get too close. They didn't seem phased although there were only a few hardy folk out. Also found a "lost world" type waterfall which would be magnificent after rain. 

Seals and rocks - spot the difference

Waterfall

Got back to the house as it started to rain. A surprisingly nice morning out. Into Brodick for a look around and dinner later. Not a lot to see as it turned out. 

Wednesday - the weather was better than forecast so we decided to walk up north sannox glen and attempt the ridge from here. Shared the first bit of the path with a group of school children who were apparently going to go into the river and walk up against the flow. (Canyoning) The route appeared to cross a fast flowing river and disappear into a bog. Not for us thank you. We carried on up a reasonable path but that also petered out in a river gorge. A good bit of exercise and a good view of the witches gap which has a reputation of being tricky. Could see why. 

River gorge and the Witches Step in the distance

Close up of the Step

Back to the car and we drove north to Lochranza through a wild landscape and steep roads. Ruined castle very nice, heavy swell and waves. A pleasant drive back along the coast road. 

Thursday spent pottering, walking beaches and using binoculars to take a look at a private yacht that has moored in Lamlash Bay. It was huge and included a helipad and helicopter. Found it on the internet and we could either have a house or hire the yacht for a couple of weeks. Sleeps ten, twelve staff.  

Friday was intended to tackle the alternative route to Goatfell and visit a different summit. However, a sharp shower as we parked up changed our minds and we headed up to Lochranza and walked the coast path to the Fairy Dell on the north of the island. Considered the Cock of Arran (look it up) but ended up having lunch at the Fairy Dell then returning by the same path. We saw the most remote and inhabited house here. No idea how it would be accessed apart from by foot (2.5 miles) or by boat but someone was in residence.  It was at Lochranza that we witnessed a small bird of prey hustle smaller birds through a hedge. The distress calls went on for ages but the bird of prey was unlucky in finding its lunch.

So that was us and out week on Arran at an end. A very nice island with some good walking but we have been there for now and have other islands to visit before we would return. It will forever be associated with Blackfoot Sue, grey seals, glorious sunsets, blue seas and cupcakes. Lemon and chocolate cupcakes - on offer in Morrisons and enjoyed on many of our walks this week. We also enjoyed some very good pub food during our week.

Ferry home easy and the last hour of the journey home was completed in driving rain, zero visibility and great delight in seeing our house again. Power cut while we were away resulted in a warm house waiting for us as the heating defaults to zero setting which is warm!

The next installment is that of October - more of a contrast with beautiful September cannot be imagined. More of that later.  

  

September - Simply the Best

With apologies to the writer of the song but it has been the most beautiful month. 


It hasn't all been good weather, we have had our share of cloudy, dreich, wet and windy but the clarity of the light, the warm sunny days and the birthdays (of course we're biased) have made it a good month. 

Birthday view (mine) from our house

Oh, and the number of visitors has decreased to more sensible levels. Good for the island that it is so popular but the sheer number of visitors during July and August has put a huge strain on the facilities on the island and there is always the inconsiderate few who seem to think it is OK  to wild camp (it is) and then leave their rubbish either at the side of the road for the bin lorries or just leave it where they were camped - this last generally a few yards from the car in which they brought all the stuff in. How to get the message across I don't know but somehow awareness must be raised or we all risk more intervention and perhaps a change to the current access rights. Which would be a shame. So if you know of someone planning a visit, make sure they do so responsibly. 
Rant over but don't get me started on the visiting drivers and their habits. 

Anyway, the Referendum. Unless you had been away or asleep for the month of August you would have noticed that the Scottish people voted for either an Independent Scotland - YES or to stay within the UK - NO. Simple you might have thought. Several leaflets later plus regular instructions through the media on how to make your opinion known. Put a cross in one of the two boxes.  We voted. So did the vast majority of Scots. Result, Scotland wins with more powers, promises of who knows what and change of some kind in the months ahead. Scotland has never been more in the public eye. Now we wait to see if promises made in Westminster are delivered. 

Interesting YES signs seen in our travels include:
The YES mini, parked at the Slig each day
The YES rocks, some of which were in very high and inaccessible places
The YES quarry signs on the sheer rock face - who / how did they manage that?
The YES lampposts and fences
The YES sheds
The YES floating sign in the harbour; now half submerged
The YES boat / yacht
Best of all, the YES mowed into the croftland and kept mowed. 
All of the above in the correct font and colours (except the croft)

The Better Together bunch were much more reserved but turned out to be the silent majority after all.
Even now the posters, saltires, signs, opinions etc remain. No antagonism of note, leave that to those in the the big cities apparently.  

Otherwise we took advantage of the weather and climbed our second Skye Munro - Banachdich - on a beautiful day and with a few others. Managed to find the right path this time and climbed steadily up through the coire until we were faced with a choice of up the steep scree or up the steep hill with less scree. The others went for the scree slopes so we went for the hill. Very steep but a good ridge once the top was reached. The summit seemed to recede as we climbed but we wove through rocky outcrops and ever upwards until we reached the very small summit. There were a few others here including the father / daughter combo we leapfrogged all the way to the top.  We could see the whole Cuillin range including Loch Coriusk which I had not seen before. 

INN PINN! Zoomed shot from summit

The Inn Pinn was very busy today and looked close enough to touch if you ignored the huge drop in the ridge to get to it. We just looked. The summit is at the top of the almost detached rockface on the right and is a roped scramble with massive exposure. 
We enjoyed our lunch, taking in the views and pointing out the different mountains. 
A couple of hard walkers / climbers made it to the top. I have never met such a rude and objectionable person on a mountain. The father / daughter combo were in the way of his photo so rather than ask them to move, a loud FFS was heard. Needless to say, no-one moved an inch.  Luckily they left quickly and headed for the ridge taking their lunch and attitude with them. Hope they enjoyed the remainder of the day and managed to improve their mood. The hills are for enjoyment not cross people.

Cuillin Range. Pointy

Loch Coriusk at the heart of the Cuillins

Alternate descent route involving a scramble

 We decided to go back the same way although we did (briefly) consider the alternative. 

View to Loch Brittle and out to sea

Made the decision to descend via the scree slopes. Oh my knees, it was a constantly moving surface with sharp drops to the left and little in the way of stability. The walking poles came in handy. A quick break for drinks at the end of the path and we were back on reasonable ground. A troop back to the car and home with smiles on faces for beer and crisps (fluid and salt replacement)

On a similarly lovely day we decided to climb a pointy peak that would get us on to the ridge leading to Beinn Dearg and the Inn Pinn (to watch rather than participate) Yet another steep climb across scree with some exposure this time. I ended up scrambling up a gully and Gary stuck with the scree. We sat at the summit and could see the route to the top across a moonscape of rocks and dust. Not today though, today was lunch and a sighting of a pair of eagles enjoying the thermals in the glen below.  A privilege to watch until they spiralled up out of sight. Tried to find a better way back down but concluded that if you are going to climb a pointy mountain then it will be steep and dangerous near the top.

That's the way to the Inn Pinn

View back down from the ridge

At least we know the way when we decide to view the Inn Pinners up close. 

Back on the croft, trees are being felled, hedges cleared, more steps created and patches dug over, drainage constructed. Very busy, very muddy and very satisfying. Also quite scratched, bruised and suffering the last midge bites of the season. The cutting of a couple of trees has improved our view of the loch as well as getting rid of a load of dead wood. Just have to cut it up into log sized chunks now and leave it to season.

New, improved view

Thought we might be able to harvest some blackberries but the lack of light due to branches etc meant the harvest was not quite up to scratch. Not even enough for a teaspoon of coulis. Next year perhaps.

We have the largest spider ever set up home / web outside the kitchen window. Getting fat on midgies and other tasty insects. 

Boris the spider plus prey

Sitting on the patio one day after working the croft when two eagles just rose from the land and floated towards us then up on the thermals. Not quick enough to grab a photo this time. They were magnificent birds - huge.   

The last week in September we had a week in Arran planned. Decided to head south a day early and stay overnight at Largs to avoid any road issues heading to the ferry at Adrossan. 
Next blog entry will tell the tale of our week enjoying a new island.