Cairngorms and contrasts. Now with improved photos!

We have rented a house for a week close to Boat of Garten and a few miles from Aviemore. The house looked good on the website and proves to be just as good in the flesh. Up a quiet track with a couple of neighbours and set back in its own grounds.  if you are ever looking to stay somewhere comfortable and warm close to the Cairngorms, Alba highland cottages will do it for you. (tried to paste the link here but failed miserably)

This is our first time in the Cairngorms and I wasn't sure what to expect. Ski paraphernalia ruining the hills? Aviemore a concrete jungle? Too commercial?
Well, there is a Tesco in the high street and evidence of the winter ski grounds, but I like the area. It has character, is sensitively developed with most campsites and the bigger hotel resorts tastefully hidden. Yes, Aviemore has grown but the old and the new seem to merge quite well.

The weather driving up was glorious - blue skies, little or no wind and September sun glowing as it does. This really is my favourite time of year. 

I had spoken with the housekeeper to arrange to pick up the keys and she had said that we could access the house any time after 13.00. This was great. The drive up the A9 was fine, we took it easy as it is a road with a reputation for dangerous drivers and many accidents. Made it in just under 2.5 hours. Missed the lane to the house a couple of times but we eventually saw the tiny sign and found the house. Warm and welcoming. The garden is full of wild birds and we saw at least four red squirrels scampering around the decking and the trees.

We had time to settle in, unpack and have a bite to eat before heading out to a very busy Aviemore. Did some window shopping then headed out of town towards the ski area where we parked up - twice - and admired the views back to town and the hills / mountains towering over.  We were going up there tomorrow. Hit the beach (really) at Loch Morvich on the way back, a quick wander along the shore for the views but quite chilly at this time in the evening. 

Weather forecast for Sunday (MWIS) was for 15mph winds, clear skies and no rain; temp at 900m 3 degrees. After Sunday, it was not looking good!

Packed up and off early to catch the best of the day - we were heading for the northern corries and Cairn Gorm mountain itself. Very high up on the Cairngorm plateau. Parked up in the skiers car park (£2 donation) and set off on the very well maintained path. First impression on stepping out of the car?? Should that have been 51mph rather than 15mph MWIS? Even at 600m the wind was howling and swirling around. As we gently gained height, the wind really started to blow. The skies were clear though, and the sun was shining. There was snow on the corrie edges and in the gullies. We were planning on walking around the rim of the corries. Carrying full winter kit today and we would use it and be grateful we had packed it.

A view of Coire an Lochan - our route returned along this edge

There were several parties / couples walking the same route (some in shorts) and we played the usual game of leap-frog as we walked at our own pace. An extremely intelligent Collie-cross played retrieve the stick with us many times, we only stopped "playing" when s/he tried to get us to throw a piece of old ski fence for her / him.  

At this point, I discovered that my camera batteries were fading fast so I have attached a couple of photos with more to come once Gary has released his after editing at home. 

View back down to Loch Morlich - beach in view

Part of Coire an t-Sneachda. Spot the person in the gap

We reached the first top and continued on the distinct path - this was an error and in direct conflict with the walk description. We were headed for Ben Macdui, second highest mountain in the UK - but not on our itinerary today.  Did we turn it round or head "off piste" and go cross country to cut across our planned route? If we turned around we would lose a whole load of height then have to climb up again. Visibility was good, ground conditions seemed OK so decision made and we headed up and over to the plateau. In these conditions and with a GPS, map and compass this was not a bad decision. In any other circumstances we would have retraced our steps. By this point of the walk, we both had many layers on and Gary was wearing two hats, which he kept on until we made our final descent.

Spot the difference in the photos to follow:

View back to the Corries

We were already quite high and soon we were walking across the summit plateau. We disturbed two separate clutches of ptarmigan, winter plumage starting to show. Soon we saw the cairn marking the top of the path we had missed and we were back on track. We were now on the edge of the cliffs we had viewed from below; an extreme drop on the left and with the wind blowing towards the edge at some speed, we kept well back. Although I had to peer over at one point, as you do. We arrived at one of the summit cairns, there was a warning in the walk description not to venture into the gully here but stick with the line of cairns to safely reach the second cairn. It was easy to see how you could step off the edge in winter conditions with serious consequences. There was new snow evident in this gully. The spot height here was 1215m, this is very high indeed; I was most disappointed to discover that it is not counted as a Munro. We dropped down to the bealach where we enjoyed some shelter and our lunch. 

The ridge we decided not to do!

 After a quick lunch it was back up the next hill with its own set of cliffs and gullies on the left. A short haul to the top, made easier by being wind-assisted. Down over the other side and Cairh Gorm was looming over us to the west. Decided to be true to the route we had planned and plodded up the very steep summit cone. At the top is a weather station - best known for recording that 165mph gust last winter and a summit cairn and shelter.

The famous weather station complete with QR code!

  Also plenty of people who have walked up the final 110m from the top of the funicular railway. Took in the glorious views and descended along the strangely cobbled and roped path back to the Ptarmigan restaurant and top station. This path was constructed to control the erosion that was happening as a result of the number of visitors tramping up to and around on the summit. We decided that this was OK then.

Skirted the restaurant, waved at those on the observation deck and followed Windy Ridge back to the car park. Walkers wishing to take the train down could ring the bell for entry at the back door of the restaurant!  Enjoyed our last cup of the day on a rocky outcrop at around 900m but the name of the ridge ran true and it was a quick cuppa and a quicker retreat down the steep but well maintained path. 

Final cuppa enjoyed here. Good view back to the higher hills.

 A wonderful day's walking in stunning scenery. Tomorrow might be low level if the forecast is correct. Headed back to the house for an evening in and the deep sleep of the truly exercised.

A birthday weekend, two fine hills and quite a bit of wind!

This weekend was a celebration of my birthday, a return to the hills and a year since we first decided to live here.

So this weekend was back to the hills after injury, illness and various other calls on our time.
Saturday was a fine if breezy day and a good day on which to re-test our fitness levels on Dumyat. Straight up the direct route from Blair Logie car park. Steep, nettles, thorns and brambles, head-high ferns and muddy and slippy under foot. Compared to the last time we attempted it, a much easier ascent - still needing pauses for breath but all was well. Joined the main path and the hordes from the Sheriffsmuir car park including runners, mountain bikers, small children and walkers. Up to the beacon on the top where wind speed was measured at a steady 35mph with one gust of 39.6mph. That's shout to be heard wind.  A sheltered spot found for our quick lunch break then back down the steep but short path to the track past the farm.

West from Dumyat summit

Forth River towards Edinburgh in the background

A quick check on legs and lungs - all well so bags packed in anticipation of Sunday's walk and (relatively) early start. 

Saturday evening brought pre-birthday champagne and chocolates plus home-made pizza - in the correct order of course!

Sunday morning was misty locally but a hint of brightness to the west decided us and we were up and off. Bags packed, clean clothes in the car and off we went to the good old A84. Past Callendar and on to Lochearnhead south road. Single track road with very few passing places saw us back at the gates to Ardvorlich House - our second attempt on Ben Vorlich was underway. There were still people camping on the lochside beach but this time no Japanese tourists. Set off up the drive and in came the rain - big spots but straight down. Waterproofs on and memories of the walk in and up the hill came to haunt us. Anyway we tramped up and up without stopping until the bridge by the mini-hydro station. Then spotted a rock where we sat and had our breakfast. Passed by three small boys, their father and, some way behind, their mother.  Their energy levels were amazing!
Watched the weather changing - clouds, rainbows, rain and quite windy. No midges though which is a good thing.

Today's target - Ben Vorlich, head in the clouds

Rainbow over Loch Earn from breakfast rock

Sunday was my birthday - and what a way to spend it. Received several texts and facebook notifications as we were walking. We climbed on and up; the mountain much quieter today than it was on our last visit.  We reached the junction of the paths which was where we turned around last time. Not today, now for the steeper part of the climb - up to the shoulder where we rounded a cairn into the face of the wind. Battened down the hatches and trudged on. We were approaching cloud level now so visibility was intermittent at best and sometimes non-existent. The path was huge though and we couldn't miss it. The energetic family passed us again - coming back down. Apparently it was cold on the top. All children were soaked through but still smiling. We carried on past several cairns and eventually the gradient eased. Summit coming into view - Oh no not just yet. A huge hill loomed out of the mist, by this point the wind was howling and rain beating in from the west. Couldn't see the summit and wind speed registered as 36mph. Decisions, decisions - did we want to trudge up another huge hill for no view and more chilling in the wind and rain? Nope not today thank you so we turned it round and decided we would return on a day with views.

View across Loch Earn before we walked into the cloud

Lawers range in the distance

Back down we went, cold now and fancying a hot drink and some food. Found shelter behind a group of rocks and enjoyed a quick lunch stop (in the rain) 

Birthday lunch shot - no I don't have a huge hand, it's a wide angled lens.

Birthday lunch, damp coat and quite cold but happy 

As we descended, the wind eased and it got warmer. Still raining though. Back at the car for around 3pm, quick change in the cool wind, avoiding the raindrops - luckily there were very few cars or people around - and home by 4pm. A lovely day, exhilarating to be out in wild weather and rounded off by a nice dinner and a glass of ice cold white wine.


And you never know, we might, just might complete the sale of the plot this week.
Gary's birthday on Wednesday - might just save the celebrations until next weekend.

We are off to the Cairngorms next week for a relaxing yet energizing week of walking and exploring an area we have never visited before. Really looking forward to it. Will be blogging as we go, wi-fi allowing. It's forecast to get cool so we might see the first snow of the winter. If we do, will share the photos and experiences on here.

A year ago this weekend we were looking at houses to rent in the area. Wanted the one in Salen, got the one in Fishcross. It all worked out well in the end. Almost a year since we packed our bags and headed north. Let's hope the next year doesn't go quite so fast - we have a house to build!