Things we forgot to tell you and guess what?

We are going back to Harris just before we have our Midge Testing week on Skye. Have just booked three nights B&B for the end of June - we will be on Harris at mid-summer so will get to experience the longest hours of daylight in the UK. Can't wait - although I know we will have to.

Things we meant to mention:
The community tennis court at Bunessan which is planted dead in the middle of a peat bog - with access. All visitors welcomed. One of the most bizarre sights we saw.
The fact that Tesco has managed to get a toehold on the Co-op monopolised island through a small but perfectly located shop in Stornaway. Watch that space; the shop is the first thing many will see as they disembark. No Sunday opening though.
That sparrows were nesting in the walls of Blacksheep House.
A download speed of over 6MB per second - in Stornaway!
The slow and rather pungent death of the shellfish that was still inhabiting the pretty shell I picked up at Gairloch; good job it announced its demise before we got to the airport and security.
The show-winning highland cow at the Great Glen B&B who happily poses for photos.
We watched the seaplane land at Loch Lomond - or rather on the Loch.

Will continue to blog intermittently as time goes on and our plans for the future crystallise (spell check will have a Z in that word) Many things to do and people / agents to speak to before we head back to the islands.

In summary of a great two weeks away ...

Back at the ranch after a seamless transition from north of the border - everything is so green here. Scotland is at least a couple of weeks behind in terms of climate / seasons.

Wednesday's photos below for your viewing delight.

Beinn Dearg en route to Inverness

Nessie captured

So, yesterday was a side trip to visit Glen Affric and Dog Falls (couldn't make it up) which were looking lovely in weak sunshine. We walked the 400 meters to see the falls which would be spectacular after heavy rain and were OK without; photo attached but nothing special.

Dog Falls in the spring sunshine

The drive back to Glasgow was pretty and dramatic in places with some interesting meetings of coaches and lorries on very narrow roads.
Ben Nevis was almost out of the clouds and still had a good covering of snow.

Ben Nevis from a layby on the A82

We stopped for lunch in Glen Coe - there was no piper piping, only an idiot from a small blue car who stood precariously on the wall and yodeled with his pants in full view; almost put me off my food.
After lunch, we stopped at the Green Welly where I had earmarked a pair of shoes two weeks earlier (what else) The sad news was the smallest was a size 6 - even two pairs of socks wouldn't make them fit so did I leave empty handed?  No I bought a nice new top instead.
Headed on south to Loch Lomond; I do wonder whether someone may have taken notice of my email about the rubbish, needles and glass by the loch as there were new signs saying "Don't be a tosser" The words would at least resonate with those that use the lochside as a litter receptacle.
A final stop at the far end of Loch Lomond and a brief appearance by Ben Lomond as if to say goodbye.

Ben Lomond, far right makes it into the album

From here is was only 30 minutes to the airport. This time we managed to negotiate the one way system and find the car hire office to hand the car back. The added bonus for Thrifty was the amount of sand that a dustpan and brush couldn't remove from the boot or back seats. A lift to the Holiday Inn and surprisingly good dinner at an airport bar and that was us done!


So we have:
Driven 1,289 miles;
Been away for 16 nights;
Taken 2 flights and 2 ferries;
Taken 1,527 photos between us!
Experienced rain (lots of it), wind (ditto), hail, mist, a little bit of sunshine, grey and white cloud, rainbows.
Visited some of the most beautiful places in the UK
Spoken to more people than we would over the course of a "normal" two weeks
Made the decision that we could live in any one of several places.

The pace of life, the people, the peace and quiet all appeal but the very important Midge Test still has to take place. We have received a great deal of information, warnings, suggestions and good luck messages from those we have met.

Now we will take a look at the information we have brought back with us; contact Dualchas architects to discuss options and put the house on the market.

This time next year ....... who knows??

A long but scenic drive to the Great Glen

We set off after breakfast to drive to Drumnadrochit via Inverness.
We woke to the sound of heavy rain but it clears as we drive away. There is more snow laying lower on the mountains this morning.
I have no photos to share with you today although we did take some back along Loch Glascarnoch towards Beinn Dearg and Gary is sure that he captured Nessie on film as we reached Loch Ness.
To get here we drove to Inverness, checked out the town's facilities, saw the Inverness Caledonian Thistles stadium then head up the coast to Nairn. Description of Nairn by Gary "Sidmouth without the income to sustain it" A faded seaside town - we do find a place to park overlooking the sea where we have lunch.
In order to avoid two sets of roadworks, we (I) decide that we will take a different route back to Loch Ness. We go across country through Grant Town on Spey - similar to Moreton-in-March or Tavistock - then on with great views of the Cairngorms to discover we are only 7 miles from Aviemore and very close to the famous Toumintal to Cockbridge road. However Loch Ness is calling so back up the A9 and we find ourselves back in Inverness. It was a nice drive.
We drive down the side of Loch Ness wondering how Jacqueline walked the Great Glen way as there is only the road and the loch. Decide the trail must be higher up the hill.
Arrive at Dumnadrochit and find the Great Glen B&B where we have been upgraded and given the huge master suite as people who were in "our" room wanted to stay another night. That's OK with us. We have a kitchen, 6 foot bed, sound surround TV and a second bedroom just in case!
We are given details of several good eating places for tonight - two of which will come and pick you up and drop you off again for free.
The wifi only works in the main house which is the reason for the early blog and no photos yet as we haven't been able to do the leisurely download from the cameras.
Our pad is down by the stables; close to the sheep and lambs and the hot tub. It is guaranteed to be very peaceful. Finish the cafetiere of coffee and home-made cake and head off to unpack, repack, remove as much sand and mud as possible from our clothes and boots so that we can arrive at the airport on Friday morning in good order.
Will blog tomorrow if the Holiday Inn has wifi.
Gary is fully occupied trying to get the three house cats to play with his laces, bits of string. However they are Siamese or Bengal / Siamese cross and much too haughty to play. So we head off to feed the horses instead.
Til tomorrow - or Friday morning
J&G

Ross & Cromarty - not the shipping forecast...

But another beautiful part of Scotland which we also like in terms of "could we live here?"
I am writing this looking out of our bedroom window across Gruinard Bay; the sea and mountains combining to produce yet another stunning end of the day.
We set out to walk from the green hut near Loch Maree as planned but stormy weather distracted us with a photo opportunity after the first hill.

Minutes later the view had been obliterated by the storm

Eventually carried on through Poolewe and Gairloch always having a wary eye on the weather which was interesting today. Decided on impulse to turn right and take the 9 mile single track road to Redpoint. This is a far as you can go before you would hit Loch Torridon - if you had a boat. We were now opposite Skye's Trotternish peninsula with great views of the Cuillins in the distance, islands in the Minch and very close to the sea. Passed a sign for a pub, this is a rarety in this part of the world, and we logged its location for later. The road ends at a parking area overlooking yet another beautiful beach.
Two carloads of people dressed for the weather in a selection of Harris tweed type garments with the kind of children (loud) that you might associate with the country set arrived just after we did. However, the beach has room for all and they head energetically for a large sand dune. We follow the stream and hit the beach. We watch the storm clouds gather over Skye then realise that this beach is next on the hit list - we have already walked to the headland so prepare to get wet!
We put to use the large selection of waterproof clothing available to us, finish our walk then head back to the car where we realise that the morning and some of the afternoon has disappeared. Scrub the pub lunch then.

Redpoint beach; a stormy Sky(e) in the distance

There is also a good view of the distant mountains; the rain and hail we experience falls as snow on their lofty heights.

Fresh snow; it is a littloe chilly today even at sea level.

We head back towards Altbea to visit the Perfume Studio which also boasts a cafe - we are in need of food by now. This turns out to be 3 miles down yet another single track road but is not the shack predicted by Gary. In fact it is a modern, cosy cafe serving good food with a perfume / soap workshop attached. We eat well again and watch the NATO ships excercising out of the window.

NATO ship running before the next storm as viewed from outside the Aroma Cafe

We decide to visit a couple more beaches before returning to the Love Croft. One of these has sand so soft you sink in very quickly - too quickly for me and we have to retreat. Gary takes some nice photos using my sit on mat to avoind the damp ground. The results are worth it I think.

Little Gruinard Bay

The other couple staying at the B&B had told us about a beach off (you guessed it) a single track road close to the house, where they had searched for the otters that have been seen there recently. So we drive off and find a hidden gem of a white sand, turquoise water, breaking waves type beach but no otters. We do spy a perfectly formed Hebrideam Contemporary Home in the most wonderful position. We can but dream.
Back to the Love Croft where we order a last breakfast and get ready to head off north and east to the Great Glen for tomorrow night.
This holiday / new life search is coming to an end - we have plenty to think about.

Parking places and many, many photos

We share a conversation at breakfast with a couple who farm diary cows in the Scottish Borders; their cows are Swiss / German and were delivered on a double decker lorry 24 hours after they placed their order.  You just don't have conversations like this very often.
After an excellent breakfast complete with honey from the owner's bees we head south down the coast road. It would appear that NATO are carrying out excercies in Gruinard Bay; there are flares, ships of many shapes and sizes, personnel from all over Europe and low flying aircraft to watch - makes for an interesting start to the day.
We stop in most of the parking places we find because whoever designed them must have been blown away by the views just as we are.
We visit Poolewe market which is in the community hall (not a lot to buy) then head off in search of a bank (need to pay cash when we leave) We find a Bank of Scotland in what appears to be someone's driveway and get the money. On we go through Gairloch, along Loch Maree when we see the sign for Victoria Falls - anyone would have to stop wouldn't they? It's only 150 metres walk and while not quite as spectacular as the more well known version it's not bad. First warning sign we have seen not to go beyond the fence - of course everyone has and there's a well beaten track to the best spot for taking photos. Chat to a couple from Dorset who make us envious by telling of temperatures of 23 degrees yesterday (They are a bit wet and bedraggled today) I do my good deed for the day and run after them to return a rather nice and obviously treasured walking stick.

Victoria Falls, Wester Ross

We drive on via several more parking spots and visit the Bein Eighe nature reserve where we shelter from a violent rain shower beneath a heather-roofed, open sided building. Decide we might tackle the tricky, 7k mountain trail tomorrow. This comes with many warnings about the serious nature of the ground and height gained. The visitor centre only opened for the season yesterday and its computer is still catching up and giving the weather forecast for October!
The clouds clear and we get a few photos of Bein Eighe the mountain, still showing snow on the ridges.

Bein Eighe plus snow. Serious rock and serious ridges.

We find a cafe / shop / knitting centre in Kinlochewe where we eat good home-made food for the two of us for less than a tenner. We still can't work out the role of the apparently 75years plus gentleman who was sitting in the cafe when we arrived and hovered between the kitchen and shop without seeming to do anything.
Head back towards Gairloch, stopping on the way at a small lochan where we discover yet more trails and walks with the details kept in a small wooden shed. Perhaps we will try one of these tomorrow?
We walk to the pier in Gairloch where the RIB used for trips to see the wales don't inspire us at all. Given how cold it is just walking along the pier, the thought of racing through the waters in a survival suit don't tempt either of us. Decide to stay firmly on dry land despite the whiteboard boasting of sightings of otters, dolphins and sea eagles on 9th April. We do spot two oyster catchers for the twitchers amongst you (Linda).

Another car park between two sandy white beaches and photos from the car first then down the cliffs for a walk on the beach. Gorgeous golden sands with mountain views. We can see Skye in the distance which prompts a quick song of "Over the sea etc"  We also spy the pub for an early dinner.

Beach at Gairloch

Beach with a view of the mountains - perfect

Early dinner to beat the crowds of NATO personnel who seem to have reserved a large number of tables. The food was good but didn't quite live up to the location (Gary's comment  "the location demanded excellence but failed to deliver more than adequacy - and the barman called me mate!" )
It was quite cool by the time we had eaten and left so we travelled most of the way back to Laide then struck off for a parking space with a view west and waited for the sunset. Not disappointed with this one - we took so many photos between us it was difficult to decide which one to share.

As the light fades we head back to the Love Croft where more lambs have been born and Steve tells us he often sees Sea Eagles in the hills behind the croft and there is also a pair nesting on the island in the loch.
Perhaps we will catch a glimpse tomorrow, or the next day.

and it's farewell to Stornaway, Lewis and Harris

A late blog this evening as we had to get out and eat while the restaurants / bars were still serving food.
(6 -8pm only; lucky to find somewhere as it's a Sunday)
Headed out after a surprisingly quiet night in the metropolis that is Stornaway to take a look at some plots on one of  the peninsulas east of the town. The first thing to note wa the huge number of people dressed to the nines and driving or walking to attend church. The other was that the only facility that was open was a garage / shop on the way to point - it was extremely busy! It seems that Sundays here are like Sundays used to be many years ago in England.
We topped up with fuel just in case as we have a fair trip to make once we leave Ullapool.
We have solved the mystery of Bracelet and the plot; it turns out there are two Bracelets one on each side of the loch - so quick decision and we drive back to find the second Bracelet and the large croft.
A quick 20 miles later and with one eye on the time for ferry check in we are on a winding, single track road that takes us via a very narrow bridge to the island of Great Berneray. This is the Scottish equivilent of Hill Billy country; although we do find the plot we both agree that the area is really not for us. Back alongside an inland loch that was sparkling when we passed it going the other way but the sun has gone in and the clouds are lowering and grey.
Back to Stornaway and into the (closed) ferry terminal to pick up our tickets. Although there are staff behind the barred counter, they don't open until 1245. If we found this confusing, imagine how the young German family in front of us must have felt.
Tickets grasped, we have lunch in the ferry queue (just dinner to go and we will have the set). Somehow had internet access in the queue, Very impressed.We then roll on in time for a departure as scheduled. Forecast is for a smooth crossing with the posibility of moderate swells. Gary is most disappointed as we haven't seen one wave break over the front end yet!
The ferry is busy and the mezzanine deck is also used - quite weird to see cars on what is effectively the first floor.

Stornaway hoves out of view - quite quickly

This is a three hour crossing so we brave the cool winds on deck until the island has disappeared over the horizon. Then we head for the observation lounge up front where fellow passengers are sleeping, eating, computing and generally making a noise!
After a while, the sun shines so we go back outside where, if you are on the right side of the boat, it feel quite warm. Sit well wrapped up on the upper deck and have it to ourselves for much of the journey.
We spy our first sight of the mainland about an hour out of Ullapool (photo by J attached; not very good but subject matter limited today) I think that is An Teallach in the haze.

We dock dead on time and disembark to head for the coast road. First we have to follow the pack from the ferry who seem to think it is OK to overtake and drive on the right even on sharp bends. Thankfully there is very little traffic heading towards Ullapool - if I was local, I would avoid the ferry arrival times like the plague.
Happily all of these cars are heading to Inverness so we have the coast road to Gairloch to ourselves.

Photos of the dramatic skies at Ullapool; also the reason for no sunset pics

 

The drive to Laide where we are staying the next three nights is beautiful with rivers, high mountains complete with snow, sea lochs and sandy beaches which we plan to explore over the next couple of days.
The sat nav takes us directly to the Love Croft which turns out to be a very comfortable B&B. They recommend the hotel in the next village for dinner so we head out straight away.
Dinner is unhealthy but tasty and we find the bar full of British army logistics people based just up the road at a fuel depot - hopefully not a secret one! They are having problems with their radios and discuss this at length during dinner. We chat to the apparent boss who is from Gosport via Bahrain; he recommends the hot chocolate fudge cake which Gary takes to be local knowledge and goes for it - justifiably as it turns out. He doesn't recommend the 10k run up the hill from their base. No worries there.
So back to the Love Croft; settled in and waiting to see what tomorrow might bring.

To Stornaway via the west coast road

We took our time reluctantly leaving south Harris and Blacksheep House this morning and spent some time chatting with Pete and Christine who own the house. Finally set off at 1030 in hazy sunshine, making the sea a beautiful shade of blue. We dawdled our way past the beaches, over the rocky road to Tarbert (it's allowed to dawdle on the roads here as long as you let other traffic pass you by pulling in)
It was interesting to actually see the scenery alongside the road to Stornaway as all was hidden last time we came this way. The hills looked very inviting if a little damp.
We carried on to Leurbost where we turned left to head for the coast. The road was a straight line with views back to Harris and its hills. The air was sparkling and clear and is felt warm!
Carried on until we reached Callanish which is where the famous stones are situated. We stop and park up by the visitor centre and make a visit. Luckily for us the coachload is just finishing up as they have taken up most of the seats in the cafe and we fancy a coffee and a butty.(quote from the manager "They're like the tide, in and out" Sites like this need visitors though. Good quality coffee, service with a smile and two very good bacon rolls later we head out towards the stones.
Guess what - you can walk amongst the stones, even touch them if you want, you don't have to pay a penny and we have them to ourselves for at least 10 minutes. It is an atmospheric site; Gary takes an artistic and moody photo, mine are a bit more basic but I do get a nice shot back to the hills of Harris.

Alone at the stones; nice midday shadows

View back to the Harris hills

We both agree that we would return here and spend more time walking between the three sets of stone circles and, no doubt, taking many photos.
We drive on and pay a visit to the Hebridean Soap Company which is quite tricky to find. It is in a settlement called Breascleat ( we have renamed it bracelet for ease) and very well hidden. As we park up, Gary is out and speaking to someone from the car next to us - a bit forward I think. I then realise that this is the owner of the company and she was just closing up for the day! Shop unlocked plus a quick tour and lesson in how to make soap just for us. Of course we buy, we were planning to anyway but it is something special to have the whole shop opened up just for us. A family we recognise from the Callinish stones arrive as we are deciding what to buy so at least she gets the benefit of two lots of purchasers.
On the road out of Bracelet we are looking for a large croft with permission to build but fail to follow the vague instructions from the agent. However, we do agree that we like this area which is a bit surprising.
On we travel towards the junction with the other road to Stornaway; failing yet again to pick out the plot in Shawbost. We have more luck with a plot in Brue which is 1/4 acre house site plus 1/4 acre croft land - with lovely views to Barhvas Bay.
Eight miles in a straight line to Stornaway on the other coast; follow the clear instructions to the apartment we have for the night - easy. We are now settled on a very low but comfortable settee in a ground floor apartment in easy walking distance of the Co-op. It's very odd to hear traffic outside not to mention people walking by, talking loudly!
Dinner is bought, the washing is in (travelling light so taking the last opportunity to wash various items of clothing) the wine is open and the mighty greens won 2-0.
Not a bad end to a great week! Back to the mainland tomorrow; heading for the Lovecroft in Laide.  

On reflection .....

of our week on this beautiful island where we have experienced most types of weather (except snow and a real storm) We love the peace and quiet, the quality of the light, the friendliness of the people we have met and the road system(!) We have found a couple of possible plots and will need to speak to planners and Mary from Dualchas before we could proceed to the next stage. It is entirely possible that we could settle here and be content. To be continued .........
And also a reflection of the islands outside the house as it was so still this morning that they appeared to float above and below the water.

A still and misty morning

Woke to a thick mist preventing any view from the house but - whisper it gently -there was no wind blowing.
After a leisurely breakfast with Gary making short work of the remaining eggs, we headed off for Luskentyre beach; the beach of the sandblasting earlier in the week.
We had to share the carpark with one other car (a French family already on the beach). Notes on the map from the house directed us along the coast and over the headland to some pebbly beaches.
We sloshed our way across the sodden turf, slippery rocks and small streams until we reached one of many tempting headlands. Each one just called out to be visited. Eventually we found a spot for lunch where we could watch the huge waves breaking beyond a rocky outcrop. The stones on the beach were beautifully cratfed by nature with different shades of whorls and circles in contrasting colours to the main body of the stone. Rounded by the waves and almost polished smooth, there were hundreds of them. Much too big to move, which is probably why they remain where they belong.
The mist, which hadn't lifted all morning dropped even lower obscuring our view of the beach and the small islands in the sound.

A lunch spot with a view; would like to be here in a storm!

We returned to the beach; although the tide had retreated it was just too tricky to move safely down the rocks to small bays revealed between the outcrops. It was difficult enough leaping down the rocks we had climbed to access the cliff earlier.
Back on the beach, still no wind, we walked as far as the eye could see, which was a very long way! The light on the sand / sea and dunes was mesmerising and it looked just like an impressionist picture. Gary captured it on camera, kneeling at the water's edge to get the right angle.

We walked as far as you can see - and then back along the high tide line.

As a distraction a whole family gathering had arrived, two children in the sea OK paddling only but in the sea, in Harris, in April. The men of the family were setting up a barbecue in the dunes. Whatever was cooking smelled pretty tempting as we walked by.
The sun tempted us with a brief glimpse at this point but it was short-lived and the mist descended once again.
Found some sea-urchin cases / shells (?) which were a lovely shade of lilac and some perfectly formed tiny shells in a similar colour. Left the sea urchin for someone else but pocketed a few of the shells.
We both had damp feet by this time so headed back to the car with a view to stopping at a particularly pleasant spot for a final coffee on the way home.
I was taken by the light as we approached the turning back to the main road so hopped out and tried to capture it. This is along the estuary with the tide a long way out. More misty hills in the background.

Just managed to avoid the dead sheep out of picture RHS!

Sadly our preferred coffe spot was taken (there were a lot more people about today) so we drove to a spot we had earmarked yesterday and enjoyed a cup of coffee in peace and quiet.
As we drove back to the house, spotted Alan's son assisting a very new black lamb to find its feet.
Unpacked the car and in to start thinking about dinner and packing up.
Tomorrow sees us off north to Lewis for one night; we are going to travel via the west coast road and visit the Callanish stones and several other allegedly gorgeous beaches. Another adventure in the making.
Will be chekcing in from Stornaway tomorrow evening. We have a whole apartment booked for the night then the ferry to Ullapool on Sunday.

to Toe Head or almost

Briefly consider the early ferry to North Uist then decide the day looks good enough to walk to Toe Head - you can see this in most of the photos taken from the house; although it is often hiding its head in the cloud.
We drive for all of ten minutes and head for the parking at the far and of Northton. We set off along with the only other visitors today; three people and two black labs we recognise from the ferry. They are clearly hardy walkers and set off at a pace, presumably to climb the hill.
We decide to take the coast path and are immediately distracted by a hidden from view beach behind Northton; you wouldn't know it was there. Gary takes some wonderful photos as we have blue skies today - lovely sparkly holiday weather.

View back to where we live

Holiday weather

We spy three more beaches and walk alongside the cliffs, dunes and rocks to visit them all. Each has its own charm and most importantly shelter from the westerly that has started to blow. However, the weather to the west looks fine so we can put up with the wind if it's from that direction.
We spot a ruin on a small headland and designate it as our early lunch / coffee spot. On reaching it, many sheep have been there first (literally) so we slide down to a small but perfectly formed beach of pure white sand.
Disturbed briefly by two mad dogs, shortly followed by the hardy walkers. They were indeed fast as we spotted them on top of the hill earlier. Can't help but think that this terrain and views deserve a slower pace.
We carry on along the coast, not decided exactly where to head for or where to stop. We keep on going "just to that rocky summit" until we realise that it is much further to Toe Head than it looks on the map. It is rumoured that eagles nest there and have been seen recently. A hollowed out (dead) sheep we manage to avoid, seems evidence that something predatory is in the area. 
Discussing whether to turn around or continue, our eyes are drawn upwards towards what looks like an easy route to the top of the hill. When will we learn? There is never an easy way up!

The ruined medieval chapel from a quarter of the way up the hill.

 What feels like hours later and with me blaming the wind (what else) for my shortness of breath, we finally reach the lovely peat bog at the crest of the hill. Briefly consider a visit to the very top then unanimously agree to descend towards that green path - which turns out to be yet another bog. We scramble, jump and dither down the slightly less steep side of the hill. The views across to all of the beaches of the west coast make up for the wet, heathery, slippy descent.
We find a sheltered spot for the final coffee of the day but the light is too flat for a decent photo.
We then spend some time searching for the track back to the car and encounter the most unusual method of crossing a fence to date. Stand on the conveniently placed rock, hoist one leg over the fence while gripping the carefully wrapped (in a tesco bag) barbed wire then use the second handhold, similarly wrapped until you land safely on the other side. Easy if you're six foot; slightly amusing if you are only just a little over five foot.
Still we make it and enjoy the gentle stroll back along the estuary banks to the car.
All in all, a fine days walking with not one drop of rain. We were out for almost six hours.
Some details of plots were emailed yesterday so we drive almost to the end of "our" road for a quick viewing. An interesting three point turn then back to the house for a well earned supper.

Final photo for today, taken by me at one of the three beaches this morning.   The uninhabited island of Pabbay in the background.

                                                                               

A beach too far

Sunset from the lounge

Those colours were simply stunning; yesterday's late upload justfied by the sunset that arrived suddenly and with no warning. Camera gear packed away, lights on etc so a rush around to get everything set up. Worth it I think.
This next photo was taken after it was dark - I have no idea what light was reflecting in the water as there's no moon to speak of.

 

Today's heavy rain arrived as promised so we loaded up our lunch on the basis that we were travelling to a remote part of North Harris and it was entirely likely that there would be no facilities - how right we were.
So we travelled north past Tarbert then left towards Huisinis beach which is highly recommended and is at the end of the road. There is also a house plot close to the beach. The waterfalls beside the road and tumbling from every hillside made the drive worth it on their own.
This road is very definitely single track with plenty of passing places. It crosses two mountains and goes around a sea loch. It is quite exciting and we bet that the views would be glorious on a clear day. We pass the school at Cliamsol which is bordered by two raging torrents and is the size of two garden sheds. We have no idea where the pupils come from as there is absolutely no habitation for miles.
On we go then suddenly we arrive in the grounds of a castle - the road goes through the grounds, around the building almost in the front door then out the other side. There is a river beside the road into the castle which must provide as much salmon as you could eat (we later look it up on the internet and it appears you can drive in, sail or land your helicopter here; they run outdoor courses, fishing, corporate team building etc - if only I'd known!) An old Bentley with a personal numberplate sits outside; how to drive that car on these roads? and where do you go to get it serviced?? On we go, past the castle's employees cottages and also past the house where the people that own this house live. On and on, difficult to believe this is only 16 miles from Tarbert. Finally we spy the beach and it is truly beautiful although we don't venture out because of the driving rain and howling wind. We share the carpark with a council truck; inhabitants on their break. There are three or four houses at the end of the track but this is under a good 12 inches of sand so we don't attempt it - even in a landrover; imagine the phone call to the rental firm.
We decide that however beautiful the views from the plot it is a little too remote even for Gary and turn it round to drive back. If anything, the rain gets heavier but we do meet three cars and a determined dog walker complete with soggy dog.
Fill up with fuel on the way back - you don't want to know the price of a litre up here, it makes you sweat!
Back south of Tarbert and we turn onto the golden road which twists and turns with passing places along the east coast. Somewhat bizzarely the local school bus and coach firm is based here.
We check out two house sites along this road, one of which Gary has noted as a "big croft with permission" None the wiser we drive on.
When we get back to the beaches on the west coast, we cannot resist the temptation of a walk along the sand to the headland. We are the only people to leave footsteps on the beach today - not sure what that says about us or anyone else. Pick up a couple of pebbles for my collection.  Arrive back at the car exhiliarated, wet and cool. Coffee at the ready along with cake from the Co-op.
Back to the house via the Co-op for top up supplies. Gary has a very long chat with Alan of the chickens about land prices, houses for sale and the world in general. He (Alan) says that the road to Huisinis is one where one good turn deserves another! Imagine a man who lives in one of the most remote places in the UK thinking that anywhere else was more inaccesible. Alan promises to have some answers by tomorrow! He also lets slip that one of his sons is a joiner, the other a civil engineer and of course he paints exteriors.
Two photos from the last coffee stop. Too wet to get the cameras out earlier in the day.

looking back to the headland we walked to.

Taransay re-emrges from the cloud cover

Ziggy Stardust by Bowie on the ipod; sun shining in my eyes now; bodes well for tomorrow.
Have just checked out the ferry prices to go to Berneray and North Uist tomorrow or Friday. Will depend on the weather (of course) and the wallet!
It would be a shame to be this close and not visit but we shall see.

A walk, a church and a closed hotel

Today yesterday's plan became reality.
Up at a reasonable time, Gary ate the fresh eggs, backpacks were packed and we were off on foot from the door. Bumped into a couple who were in the ferry queue just behind us on Saturday who are staying up the road. Met them again on the way home. We were the only walkers out today.
We headed east to the very end of the road with great views to Benbecula and North Uist across the Sound of Harris. It was, you've guessed it, a little breezy. So breezy in fact that all zippers were zipped tight and we were extremely grateful to whoever invented Windstopper material.
Off the road to follow the track to Rodel which boasted an old church, PCs and a hotel according to the map.
We took the high track; how brave were we in the face of the wind? and eventually arrived at the road that circles the church and hotel.
We visited the church which was empty of everything but information boards; plenty of detail about the history of the Macleods and Morisons who were involved with the church. Many ancient headstones in remarkably good condition.
Inside the church was a dark passageway leading to steps up into the tower. No notices saying take care, nothing barring the way to a crumbling and steep stairwell just the dark, the wet stones and a little bit of claustrophobia. "We could return with head torches, then I would definitely take a look"  Elf and safety would have a fit if this was anywhere on the mainland. Here, you are trusted to make the right decisions or live with the consequences.
We carried on to a small headland we had spotted earlier. En route Gary suggested we stop and shelter from a particularly haevy shower.... until we realised that the shower was in fact a stream pouring over the cliff edge and being blown back up the hill vertically where it got us very wet.
Onwards to a relatively sheltered spot where we managed a few shots with the cameras and a quick cup of coffee.
Full waterproofs now required as the rain arrived.
Tested the PCs on the way to the small harbour; they are a community resource and are the only toilets I have ever visited with a visitors book, the caretaker's phone number and a small glass pot for donations (this was pretty full too) Very nice and a welcome shelter from the wind.
The hotel looked pretty grim and turned out to be closed although there was some evidence (white van man) of them getting ready for the season.
So back we trod on the low path, which was just as well as I was almost blown off my feet on several occasions. By this time we were both wearing every piece of kit we had taken with us. Buttoned up to the chin, hats and hoods, gloves and waterproof trousers.
The walk back was otherwise uneventful and we were pleased to see the house waiting for us.
More eggs and a conversation with Alan the owner of the chickens. He also has sheep and is involved in lambing at the moment - twins born this morning with 25 ewes to go. It turns out he hates the rain as it gets in the way of his painting business (exteriors) oh and he also drives the school bus but they are on Easter holidays at the moment so no work until next Monday. Makes us feel rather laid back.
Anyway, two more eggs are handed over with a "you're welcome"
Sound track this afternoon is Aja by Steeley Dan and for this evening's listening pleasure Never a dull moment by Rod Stewart (scottish connection there)
The sun has peeped out for setting but the cloud is low and the hills have no head or shoulders visible. The wind has eased to a geniune breeze and no rain for a moment. Breaking news, the sunset colours are magnificent setting us off on a scramble for cameras etc. You will have to wait until tomorrow to see if it was worth it. The reflections are amazing.
The legs feel as if they have done some work today - rewarded by a hearty dinner.
Till tomorrow, which promises more white beaches, a trip along the golden road on the East coast and sussing out a few more possible plots of land.

On a clear day you would be able to see Skye in the distance

Somewhere in the mist is North Uist

One of the calmest and driest spots today even if only briefly.

 Have uploaded the best of today's photos, taken when there was a break in the weather.

Light rain (of the Outer Hebrides type)

Transition from Harris to Lewis. The lovely road winding into the distance.

The BBC weather forecast promied light rain so we planned accordingly. 
The night was interrupted by the need to negotiate the steep stairs to visit the bathroom which lights up with runway lights if you hit the right switch. Result, all inhabitants wide awake at 0230; read our books for a while then drifted back to sleep. A slightly later start to the day!
Our first impression of Hebridean light rain - heavy mist-like droplets swept horizontally across the bay. What the BBC failed to mention was the accompanying 30mph wind. A bit of a theme going on here.  The daffs in the garden were touching the ground and the chickens took one look outside and refused to play.
So the plan for today is to drive the length of the island, see what Stornaway has to offer and take a look at a few potential sites on the way. We take the laptop with all the estate agents "windows" open so we can view the details and directions as we go. It may look a bot odd but it works. We head off and discover that the road the other side of Tarbert is a veritable highway with two lanes all the way. There is a distinct difference in the terrain between the two islands (which are really one land mass) We leave the hills and rocks of Harris and drive through some of the most desolate peat bog and moorland this side of Devon. Plenty of lochs, sea lochs and mini-lochs. One of today's few photos (above) shows the transition from one "island" to the other.
Have just been interrupted by Alan, a kind neighbour, offering us a couple of truly free range eggs. Guess what Gary will be having for breakfast tomorrow?
The"light rain" continues with a vengeance all of the 45 miles to Stornaway - which turns out to be just like anytown UK. A huge co-op superstore, suburbs and traffic control. We don't like it, so top up on supplies and follow the road north to the end of a peninsula where there is a likely sounding site. It overlooks a wide sandy bay but is so narrow that any house built would have to be facing the hill rather than the view which seems pointless.
We head back down the road towards South Harris; thi is the equivalent to driving from Plymouth to Exeter or Taunton to Bristol but takes a fair bit longer. We spot a couple of cyclists including one tandem and consider their madness from the smug warmth of the car.
Take a slight detour to see a plot just off the road close to a sea loch but after negotiating the one in four road, intersting bends and narrow "village" road decide this would be quite dark during the long winter months and escape might be difficult in the snow or ice.
Back on the Leverburgh road and we have to stop again for photos of the beaches in a very different mood from yesterday Have uploaded a couple just because we can.
It's only when we arrive back at the house that we realise the wind has dropped to a level where screaming isn't required to be heard.
Unpack the very messy car and head back into warmth and comfort for dinner.
Tonights playlist:10cc, ZZ top, Thin Lizzy, Andy Williams, Shania Twain ... Julie says no to Saxon, Whitesnake and Iron Maiden - no taste?

A glimpse of the sun

You can see why we just had to stop

The photographer photographed

We decide that tomorrow will be a walk from the door day although whether we will be able to resist the lure of the beaches remains to be seen.
 

There's windy and There's Harris windy

Planned to have a lazy start to the day but ...... bright blue skies and sun meant awake by 0700 and a long lazy breakfast then couldn't resist the lure of the beaches.
Headed out to Luskentyre where the sand stretches forever and around the headland. Drove to a small, neat carpark and ventured onto the beach. As we turned the corner, felt the full force of the wind and got sandblasted for our troubles. Made it to the waters edge where we took some great, if a bit wobbly, photos by sinking the tripod (thanks Jacqueline) into the sand.  
Decided you could have too much of a Harris wind and drove back to Scarista beach (there is a plot of land for sale close to here) where access was easier but the wind followed us. Down to the water again and more photos; failed to really notice the huge black clouds bearing down on us so in addition to the sand that had found its way everywhere and into everything we got very wet very quickly. Coffee and cookies in the car soon put us right and we were off to yet another lookout where we parked up and watched the waves breaking with a vengance over rocky outcrops. The photos will give you some idea but you really had to be there. 
It being a Sunday, there's not much going on locally except for attendance at the numerous churches in Sunday suits and finery (the locals that is, not us) It does mean the roads are even quieter if that's possible. I have just noticed the ferry from North Uist arriving so the ferries do sail on a Sunday.

Scarista beach; very long with white sands.

 

Taransay in the distance; storm heading our way.

Finally retreated back to Blacksheep House where we unloaded half of the beach and a fair amount of peat from my feet. 
Now watching the storm clouds interspersed with sunny weather and some heavy rain showers in the distance. Gary has put together a stunning playlist especially for the holiday; currently listening to Kaylee by Marillion - remember them?   Next track is Echo Beach, how appropriate! Planning to walk to the end of the track later, especially if it looks like being a decent sunset. You may get to see that as part of tomorrow's upload.  
Have messaged a few people to say that we have absolutely no mobile signal on this part of Harris; however we are able to pick up and reply to emails thanks to good wifi in the house.
Now, what bottle of wine shall we open for tonight???
Signing off now.

HARRIS !

Over the sea to Harris - breakfast eaten in the queue for the ferry. The clouds are clearing, still windy but bits of blue sky in the distance. We leave exactly on time - top deck for photos, wrapped up in heavy coats, hats and gloves. We seem to eat up the distance and the island of Harris hoves into view. Photo of first view attached for your delight and jealousy. How beautiful is that?? Off the ferry and hit the single track road (with passing places) for the 22 miles to Leverburgh close to where we are staying. Only we have to stop at white sand beaches, viewpoints, parking places and many other spots to take in the views. These are of a turquoise sea, crashing white waves, brilliant white beaches and mountains behind. I also saw Taransay for the first time in the flesh - another top ten ambition realised. Another photo attached for you. So we visit the (vast?) new Co-op we had been promised in Leverburgh - this has the best view of any car park I've ever been in, a fuel pump that you use then wander in to pay for and just about any item of food and hardware you can think of. (except for sausages) We stock up.And move on a mile down the coast road for our first sneaky pre-view of black sheep house where we will be staying this week. Initial impression is "where are the sea views" and "but there are neighbours". We find a place to eat our lunch then head off for an interesting drive on even smaller single track roads before we can reasonably present ourselves at the door and check in. The minute we do, all initial impressions are blown away. This is a Grand Designs winner and it is almost beyond description. The wrap around windows look directly out onto a tidal creek unobstructed. I have included a photo (gary is behind the window somewhere) The owners make us very welcome and show us around. This will be the only time we have ever slept on a platform above the lounge with no need to get out of bed really - just enjoy the views. We can see across the Sound of Harris to North Uist. The colours change all the time and the tide sneaks back in changing the view again. 
So settled in, glass of wine in hand, Pink Floyd on the Ipod, dinner menu decided and all that is left to do is enjoy the absolute peace and quiet. Sheep, seabirds and the ubiquitous chickens are our only visible companions. Watching the ferry come in from North Uist; we plan to take that trip later this week. Signing off now, very content and relaxed.

Wet wet wet .......

We start the day with a fine scottish breakfast then head out into the rain and wind.
The lower road is up the hill and higher milovaig is lower down - luckily Brian spots us and we follow him to the site. The road is a loop so difficult to get really lost. Having negotiated the bin lorry and found a place to park we step past the goats and into the mud to admire the size of plot C with a view to plot B. Steep ground but plot B will be accessed via the lower road. If we were interested in both plots, the seller would throw in the piece of neutral land that seperates the two.  We decide to leave all conversation until we are inside the property we are going to view. Turns out to be a sensible move. Take a quick look at Mairi's cottage but it is too small but we do spend a useful hour or so listening to local knowledge and developing some understanding of crofting law.
Brian heads back to Portree, we decide to take a look at Dunvegan - proves to have a free car park where we sit and listen to the rain and wind and ponder the sites we have just seen.
Drive to Portree via the pretty coast road which introduces us to more areas where we could live. Decide to have an early dinner at the Stein Inn on the Waternish peninsula. What a road and what views and what plots might be available? We like it here too.
It is so windy and raining so hard that the window seats in the pub are wet because of the rain being blown through the inches thick walls. So we sit near the fire and order a fine dinner.
Now back at Carters Rest, re-searching websites. An early start for the ferry tomorrow and they have provided us with a fantastic packed breakfast so we can avoid the ferry food.
And .... it has almost stopped raining! Still blowing a hoolie.
No photos today as too wet. watch out for ferry photos tomorrow and first view of Harris,