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Monday 11 April 2011

Parking places and many, many photos

We share a conversation at breakfast with a couple who farm diary cows in the Scottish Borders; their cows are Swiss / German and were delivered on a double decker lorry 24 hours after they placed their order.  You just don't have conversations like this very often.
After an excellent breakfast complete with honey from the owner's bees we head south down the coast road. It would appear that NATO are carrying out excercies in Gruinard Bay; there are flares, ships of many shapes and sizes, personnel from all over Europe and low flying aircraft to watch - makes for an interesting start to the day.
We stop in most of the parking places we find because whoever designed them must have been blown away by the views just as we are.
We visit Poolewe market which is in the community hall (not a lot to buy) then head off in search of a bank (need to pay cash when we leave) We find a Bank of Scotland in what appears to be someone's driveway and get the money. On we go through Gairloch, along Loch Maree when we see the sign for Victoria Falls - anyone would have to stop wouldn't they? It's only 150 metres walk and while not quite as spectacular as the more well known version it's not bad. First warning sign we have seen not to go beyond the fence - of course everyone has and there's a well beaten track to the best spot for taking photos. Chat to a couple from Dorset who make us envious by telling of temperatures of 23 degrees yesterday (They are a bit wet and bedraggled today) I do my good deed for the day and run after them to return a rather nice and obviously treasured walking stick.

Victoria Falls, Wester Ross
We drive on via several more parking spots and visit the Bein Eighe nature reserve where we shelter from a violent rain shower beneath a heather-roofed, open sided building. Decide we might tackle the tricky, 7k mountain trail tomorrow. This comes with many warnings about the serious nature of the ground and height gained. The visitor centre only opened for the season yesterday and its computer is still catching up and giving the weather forecast for October!
The clouds clear and we get a few photos of Bein Eighe the mountain, still showing snow on the ridges.

Bein Eighe plus snow. Serious rock and serious ridges.

We find a cafe / shop / knitting centre in Kinlochewe where we eat good home-made food for the two of us for less than a tenner. We still can't work out the role of the apparently 75years plus gentleman who was sitting in the cafe when we arrived and hovered between the kitchen and shop without seeming to do anything.
Head back towards Gairloch, stopping on the way at a small lochan where we discover yet more trails and walks with the details kept in a small wooden shed. Perhaps we will try one of these tomorrow?
We walk to the pier in Gairloch where the RIB used for trips to see the wales don't inspire us at all. Given how cold it is just walking along the pier, the thought of racing through the waters in a survival suit don't tempt either of us. Decide to stay firmly on dry land despite the whiteboard boasting of sightings of otters, dolphins and sea eagles on 9th April. We do spot two oyster catchers for the twitchers amongst you (Linda).


Another car park between two sandy white beaches and photos from the car first then down the cliffs for a walk on the beach. Gorgeous golden sands with mountain views. We can see Skye in the distance which prompts a quick song of "Over the sea etc"  We also spy the pub for an early dinner.

Beach at Gairloch

Beach with a view of the mountains - perfect
Early dinner to beat the crowds of NATO personnel who seem to have reserved a large number of tables. The food was good but didn't quite live up to the location (Gary's comment  "the location demanded excellence but failed to deliver more than adequacy - and the barman called me mate!" )
It was quite cool by the time we had eaten and left so we travelled most of the way back to Laide then struck off for a parking space with a view west and waited for the sunset. Not disappointed with this one - we took so many photos between us it was difficult to decide which one to share.


As the light fades we head back to the Love Croft where more lambs have been born and Steve tells us he often sees Sea Eagles in the hills behind the croft and there is also a pair nesting on the island in the loch.
Perhaps we will catch a glimpse tomorrow, or the next day.

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