A week in Assynt & September progress report

This should have been two posts but the beautifully crafted post about our week in Assynt disappeared after much sweating over text and photos. So hacked off that I couldn't be **#ed to rewrite it all.
So I have amalgamated the two posts and you have a summary of a fantastic week in Assynt in early September plus the latest from site. 

ASSYNT
 
What a week of contrasts and what a beautiful part of Scotland / the UK.

Travelled up a reasonably fast flowing A9 without mishap or hold up and headed towards Ullapool and the NW coast. Venturing into uncharted territory here as we have only visited Ullapool briefly before when disembarking the ferry from Lewis two years ago. 

So through Ullapool and up a long hill until the NW coast of Coigach and Assynt opens up before you. It was sunny and even warm. We still had an hour's driving before we were in Lochinver then on a single track road to Inverkirkaig - which has around 12 houses scattered around a large bay. 

Inverkirkaig bay on a beautiful evening

We had managed to find a week's accommodation in an upside down house with views out over the bay. This was nicely furnished with most of what we needed for a week's rest and relaxation.

Sunday - decided to try for a local walk to the summit of one of the Quinag peaks. Set off bright and early on a gorgeous autumn day.  Found the car park and set off up the very nice (John Muir Trust) path through limestone pavements and peat. We were easily caught and passed by a couple of groups - one old and one young. Settled on a spot with a view for coffee then carried on up and up and up.  

Route for the day from coffee spot - yes this is Scotland. Look at that sky!

Eventually reached a little bit of down but only to go up rather more steeply. This part of the climb was sandy and would be slippy in the wet but we trudged up to reach the summit cairn and views for miles around. All of the classic Assynt hills in view with distant views to the Torridan hills and over to Skye. (We waved to our new hoose)

From the summit of the pointy peak in the previous photo.

Ridge ahead and view back to Lochinver (at the end of the loch on the left)

We could see the way ahead and what looked like a narrow ridge to continue the walk. Down we climbed - a bit of a scramble but nothing too taxing. At the bottom of the scramble was the perfect lunch spot beside a lochan and protected from the wind but breezy enough for no midges (The mighty MIDGE was to be a recurring theme for the week)  
After a decent lunch stop it was up again and over the innocent looking slope in front of us.

Post lunch climb - looks innocent enough

From the top there was a great view to Lochinver and the coast. 

The downside was the very steep and rocky scramble required to reach the bealach and the turnaround point. We managed fine but felt quite sorry for the two ladies scrambling their way up to reverse our route. 

Found the wet path back to the car and reflected on a very good first day in the Assynt hills. 
A quick stop at the ruined Ardvreck castle for some photos and to offer ourselves up as a midge supper then home for a well-deserved rest. 

Ardveck castle, Quinag in the background. Midges not visible but they were there in swarms

Reflections on a great day out

Monday

Stac Pollaidh (Stack Polly) had to be done. Classic hill, sharp pointy rocks; short walk of c3 miles but so very steep. A long drive along single track roads to get to the large car park, plenty of visitors including many German and Dutch. This is a hill that is climbed by all and sundry as it so recognizable. There is a very good path circling the mountain. Steep start through ferns, gorse and, of course, midges. Most people went to the right so we headed left. 

Stac Pollaidh - STEEP

 We knew that we were on our last day of good weather for a while so we made the most of the position of this hill and the views from the top. Took our time getting to the top and hung around for ages when we reached the summit. The left summit in the photo above is the terrain of climbers only so we had out lunch on the poking out bit on the right. Although the wind was increasing as the weather changed, the summit was strangely sheltered and warm. 

Climbers only please

Assynt - a world of water and weirdly shaped hills. Suilven looming in the distance

Back towards Lochinver and towards the Outer Hebrides

 

 

 

A last look up before we returned to the car

Back to Inverkirkaig and plans for a couple of wet days. 

Tuesday  

Drove the coast road from Lochinver to Kylesku. 16 miles and many hours due to the very steep and thin roads but also the need to stop and enjoy the white sand beaches, views and candle and teashop in Drumbeg. There was also the only shop for miles here. Weather behaving as promised with low cloud, wind and misty rain. Enjoyed the day but had enough of the road by the time we returned to the main road. 

Wednesday

Wet, wet, wet so we walked from the door to the "local" waterfall. Signs warned of steep drops and keeping children and dogs under control. A good path which did indeed end with an almost sheer drop to the pool beneath the waterfall. But no railings or steps or safety features - you had been warned and are expected to take responsibility for your own actions and safety. I love this about Scotland. We slid and slithered down half way but decided that was us for today. We met a few hardy souls but not many were out in the driving misty rain. We got very wet due to the wet grasses and ferns and the rain being driven up the waterproof trousers. Glad to return to the house and a hot shower. 

Thursday

Up early to beat the promised rain and walked to another waterfall. Used a very good stalkers track to get to the top of the hill. Enjoyed a good walk and the fresh air and exchanged pleasantries with a party from the "big house" who were taking two pony loads of stuff up the hill; including two guns. Made it back to Kylesku for a fantastic pub lunch just in time for the rain to arrive in bucket loads.

Friday

Weather looked OK so decided to head for Ben More Assynt, the area's only Munro. This entailed a long walk in on a good track. Eventually we reached the turn off for the mountain proper which was over and around very wet peat hags. Not happy with this bit, steeply uphill, wet, slippy and shaky ground. Eventually got out of the peat onto a rockier path but the top of the hill had disappeared into thick clouds. Although we had a map and GPS we had read that the path was tricky to follow through the quartz rocks higher up. Took a few moments to consider the situation then a heavy rain shower made the decision for us. We would return to Ben More Assynt another day. Back down we went, with an easier route through the hags. 

Stopped for lunch in what looked like a breezy spot and encountered our worst ever MIDGE attack. Covered in them, flying everywhere and in everything. Ate very quickly then took a detour to visit the underground river and caves - a spooky experience - then made our way back to the car and home. 

Back to Quinag from the route to BMA. Low cloud and not very good views today.

Saturday

Travelled back via Aviemore and TISO at Perth for brunch and shopping. Both successful and I am now the proud owner of a new (bigger) rucksack which will be great for the winter. Black but with bright pink bits (designed for ladies - why does it have to have pink on it???)

Other highlights: Persuading a bat that outside was better than in. No idea how it got in but it took a lot of persuading to leave! Deer in the garden and the setting sun lighting a rockface from the lounge window; stars by the thousand from the balcony; a new perspective on elderly Swiss gentlemen - relieving themselves against a rockface at the side of the A83 - bizarre. 

A great week with plenty to go back for. A unique part of the world that deserves more time.

 

Back to work for a week then time off for Marie and John to visit. A busy few days where we covered several attractions locally. The Falkirk wheel, the Ochils, Wallace Monument, St Andrews, shopping in Glasgow, Falkland (Lomond hills) and lunch at the Sheriffmuir Inn.  Nice to catch up and we dropped them off at Edinburgh airport so they could continue their UK tour with the South of England later that week. 

Last weekend was Ben Lawyers revisited (report to follow)

Then this week the site reports and progress sign off (invoices) arrived in a neat line. 

Update: walls insulated, floors done, roof battened, larch cladding arriving, windows in the builder's yard. It looks like a house - quite a big house!

Poor quality photos as they are from a phone camera. Still they show progress and the second one reminds we why I am carrying on working. It is the Mezzanine level taking shape. 

House, builder and portaloo

Taking shape nicely. I have a feeling that this space will be well used. Mountain views from that window in the gable end.

So that's it - six weeks in one blog entry. 

We are heading over to Skye the first weekend in November to visit the house, the builder and the architect. We will be choosing tiles, flooring, interior doors and designing the showers as we want them.  

Report and many photos to follow. Ian and Jacqueline are visiting in a couple of weeks then the clocks go back and we are off to Skye. Staying in Portnalong, just up the road. Can't wait - but I'll have to. Till then ....... unless there is other news. There will also be the Lawyers walk report when my fingers are ready to write some more.