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Saturday 9 April 2011

To Stornaway via the west coast road

We took our time reluctantly leaving south Harris and Blacksheep House this morning and spent some time chatting with Pete and Christine who own the house. Finally set off at 1030 in hazy sunshine, making the sea a beautiful shade of blue. We dawdled our way past the beaches, over the rocky road to Tarbert (it's allowed to dawdle on the roads here as long as you let other traffic pass you by pulling in)
It was interesting to actually see the scenery alongside the road to Stornaway as all was hidden last time we came this way. The hills looked very inviting if a little damp.
We carried on to Leurbost where we turned left to head for the coast. The road was a straight line with views back to Harris and its hills. The air was sparkling and clear and is felt warm!
Carried on until we reached Callanish which is where the famous stones are situated. We stop and park up by the visitor centre and make a visit. Luckily for us the coachload is just finishing up as they have taken up most of the seats in the cafe and we fancy a coffee and a butty.(quote from the manager "They're like the tide, in and out" Sites like this need visitors though. Good quality coffee, service with a smile and two very good bacon rolls later we head out towards the stones.
Guess what - you can walk amongst the stones, even touch them if you want, you don't have to pay a penny and we have them to ourselves for at least 10 minutes. It is an atmospheric site; Gary takes an artistic and moody photo, mine are a bit more basic but I do get a nice shot back to the hills of Harris.

Alone at the stones; nice midday shadows

View back to the Harris hills
We both agree that we would return here and spend more time walking between the three sets of stone circles and, no doubt, taking many photos.
We drive on and pay a visit to the Hebridean Soap Company which is quite tricky to find. It is in a settlement called Breascleat ( we have renamed it bracelet for ease) and very well hidden. As we park up, Gary is out and speaking to someone from the car next to us - a bit forward I think. I then realise that this is the owner of the company and she was just closing up for the day! Shop unlocked plus a quick tour and lesson in how to make soap just for us. Of course we buy, we were planning to anyway but it is something special to have the whole shop opened up just for us. A family we recognise from the Callinish stones arrive as we are deciding what to buy so at least she gets the benefit of two lots of purchasers.
On the road out of Bracelet we are looking for a large croft with permission to build but fail to follow the vague instructions from the agent. However, we do agree that we like this area which is a bit surprising.
On we travel towards the junction with the other road to Stornaway; failing yet again to pick out the plot in Shawbost. We have more luck with a plot in Brue which is 1/4 acre house site plus 1/4 acre croft land - with lovely views to Barhvas Bay.
Eight miles in a straight line to Stornaway on the other coast; follow the clear instructions to the apartment we have for the night - easy. We are now settled on a very low but comfortable settee in a ground floor apartment in easy walking distance of the Co-op. It's very odd to hear traffic outside not to mention people walking by, talking loudly!
Dinner is bought, the washing is in (travelling light so taking the last opportunity to wash various items of clothing) the wine is open and the mighty greens won 2-0.
Not a bad end to a great week! Back to the mainland tomorrow; heading for the Lovecroft in Laide.  

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