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Tuesday 5 April 2011

A walk, a church and a closed hotel

Today yesterday's plan became reality.
Up at a reasonable time, Gary ate the fresh eggs, backpacks were packed and we were off on foot from the door. Bumped into a couple who were in the ferry queue just behind us on Saturday who are staying up the road. Met them again on the way home. We were the only walkers out today.
We headed east to the very end of the road with great views to Benbecula and North Uist across the Sound of Harris. It was, you've guessed it, a little breezy. So breezy in fact that all zippers were zipped tight and we were extremely grateful to whoever invented Windstopper material.
Off the road to follow the track to Rodel which boasted an old church, PCs and a hotel according to the map.
We took the high track; how brave were we in the face of the wind? and eventually arrived at the road that circles the church and hotel.
We visited the church which was empty of everything but information boards; plenty of detail about the history of the Macleods and Morisons who were involved with the church. Many ancient headstones in remarkably good condition.
Inside the church was a dark passageway leading to steps up into the tower. No notices saying take care, nothing barring the way to a crumbling and steep stairwell just the dark, the wet stones and a little bit of claustrophobia. "We could return with head torches, then I would definitely take a look"  Elf and safety would have a fit if this was anywhere on the mainland. Here, you are trusted to make the right decisions or live with the consequences.
We carried on to a small headland we had spotted earlier. En route Gary suggested we stop and shelter from a particularly haevy shower.... until we realised that the shower was in fact a stream pouring over the cliff edge and being blown back up the hill vertically where it got us very wet.
Onwards to a relatively sheltered spot where we managed a few shots with the cameras and a quick cup of coffee.
Full waterproofs now required as the rain arrived.
Tested the PCs on the way to the small harbour; they are a community resource and are the only toilets I have ever visited with a visitors book, the caretaker's phone number and a small glass pot for donations (this was pretty full too) Very nice and a welcome shelter from the wind.
The hotel looked pretty grim and turned out to be closed although there was some evidence (white van man) of them getting ready for the season.
So back we trod on the low path, which was just as well as I was almost blown off my feet on several occasions. By this time we were both wearing every piece of kit we had taken with us. Buttoned up to the chin, hats and hoods, gloves and waterproof trousers.
The walk back was otherwise uneventful and we were pleased to see the house waiting for us.
More eggs and a conversation with Alan the owner of the chickens. He also has sheep and is involved in lambing at the moment - twins born this morning with 25 ewes to go. It turns out he hates the rain as it gets in the way of his painting business (exteriors) oh and he also drives the school bus but they are on Easter holidays at the moment so no work until next Monday. Makes us feel rather laid back.
Anyway, two more eggs are handed over with a "you're welcome"
Sound track this afternoon is Aja by Steeley Dan and for this evening's listening pleasure Never a dull moment by Rod Stewart (scottish connection there)
The sun has peeped out for setting but the cloud is low and the hills have no head or shoulders visible. The wind has eased to a geniune breeze and no rain for a moment. Breaking news, the sunset colours are magnificent setting us off on a scramble for cameras etc. You will have to wait until tomorrow to see if it was worth it. The reflections are amazing.
The legs feel as if they have done some work today - rewarded by a hearty dinner.
Till tomorrow, which promises more white beaches, a trip along the golden road on the East coast and sussing out a few more possible plots of land.
On a clear day you would be able to see Skye in the distance

Somewhere in the mist is North Uist

One of the calmest and driest spots today even if only briefly.
 Have uploaded the best of today's photos, taken when there was a break in the weather.

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