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Wednesday 29 June 2011

Luskentyre beach, an interesting drive and dinner

Headed to Luskentyre beach today which didn't disappoint. Originally planned to climb the hill behind the beach for the views over to Taransay and the islands beyond. However when we saw the size of the hill we realised how tired we were from all of that driving so decided to stick with the coast instead. Found a lovely small beach for our coffee break then headed back to the miles of white sands to walk around the estuary as far as possible. With the tide out, the sands go on for ever. It was also difficult to see the course of the river that cuts across the sands and seperates the two beaches. Decided to turn and head to the dunes for lunch. The weather had been mostly kind with small winds, slight showers and some sun. Managed to find shelter down a large pit in the dunes and settled down for lunch - eaten just in time before the true Harris type rain returned. Waterproofs on for the walk back to the car.
We saw a grand total of twelve other people on the beach - busy summer holiday time on Harris. Back at the carpark we talked to a 91 year old (with heart failure) who was contemplating walking the short distance to the beach - we reassured him it was flat and well worth the time and effort. It is apparently recognised worldwide as one of the best beaches to visit. That would explain the crowds then. We chatted to him a bit longer and he told us about how he negotiated his room rate at the Tarbert Hotel down from £160 to £100 - and it may call itself 4 star but is lacking in the finer detail.  He later passed us on the road - still driving well and only stops or slows down when he feels unsafe! 
We then parked up and suddenly almost two hours had passed watching the tide sneaking back in and taking photos.
Sunshine

...and showers
 These pictures taken within 2 minutes of each other!

Thoughts return to food and we decide to drive to the Skoon Art Cafe which has a good reputation and is situated off the "Golden Road" This starts out well but quickly turns into a Harris special with less than a single track in places, steep unfenced drops to sea lochs and other watery areas with the odd hairpain bend and summit without a view thrown in for good measure. We managed to find the cafe but it is only open from 10.00 to 16.30; we might return at a later date. Decide to drive on to the end of the road which gets even narrower; luckily we only meet three or four cars (there are passing places) However one of these comes over the hill much too fast and we meet on a steep hill. They refuse to reverse so eventually Gary has to reverse back down the hill for some distance. Choice words and his opinion of the lady's driving ability are shared through the open window. On we go until we arrive at the Rodel Hotel, which is open! We run in through yet another heavy shower and end up like drowned rats. Could we have a table for two? Fully booked so we make a reservation for tomorrow instead.
Good views across to Skye from here - we never really got to see this view because of the weather in March / April. 
Back to Tarbert seeking a takeaway but no joy. So it's to the local shop for dinner goods and back to our des res to eat them along with a bottle of red.
Plan for tomorrow is a 6 mile walk around Scalpay via the new road bridge. Should be interesting with good views to Skye and the smaller islands. 


More notes re B&Bs


6: If toast is ordered as requested, please do not toast the bread and place it on my table 10 minutes before I arrive at my designated time. Cold, thin toast is a challenge; most of us would rather wait a few minutes and have it hot. (We have a plan - tomorrow we will be early!)
7: Would it really cost that much to offer orange juice by the refillable glass rather then a measured (small) portion which is gone when it's gone. You want to be viewed as generous not mean.
8: Owners of B&Bs are going to have to get with the digital age - not everyone carries that much cash with them. Cheques will soon be a thing of the past.

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