And before you wonder if I stayed up all night blogging to get this published - not a chance - I was scribing each day on a word document then copied and pasted.
Diary of a week in the Lake District
Friday / Saturday 9 and 10 September
Arrived in a break between the heavy showers to “check in” to our accommodation for the next week. House very nice but we have had to bring our own towels and pay for the power / gas / logs we use. Previously been spoilt by all inclusive holiday lets.
Hint to holiday property owners – just add £50 to the rental cost; we would never know and you would more than cover your costs and we would all be happy with no fiddling around reading meters and feeling just a little resentful. Also no internet access at the house could be viewed as a good thing by some but we like to have the option to connect. There are plenty of wifi spots in Grasmere if we need them and the phone picks up an intermittent signal so we can access emails and the web on that.
So this week is a week to relax before heading to Scotland to find somewhere to live close to Alloa.
Had a very nice first evening meal testing most of the equipment in the kitchen here – all satisfactory.
A relatively early night and a long and comfortable sleep. The house is down a quiet lane with no street lights, the sound of silence and complete darkness outside. Something most of us just don’t experience any more.
Saturday morning woke to heavy rain but the MWIS forecast this easing to leave drier periods with heavy rain showers. Had planned several options from the door of the cottage depending on the reality when we were ready to leave. A late start but the rain had stopped.
Decided to try a route via Alcock Tarn that would give us a turnback option if the weather came in again. Set off past Dove Cottage (plenty of tourists crowding in and we counted two coaches in the parking area) and up the hill to a point where most of the other walkers carried on with the “Coffin Route” to Rydal. Our route was steeply uphill through woods then onto open hillside. Here the first heavy shower hit us so waterproofs on and carry on upwards. Periods of no rain and sudden views interspersed with the promised heavy showers continued until we reached the tarn in the middle of one of the showers. Watched as a large group of very wet walkers tried (and failed) to find some shelter behind a stone wall for their lunch break.
At this height (approx. 380 metres) the promised buffeting from the wind also made itself known.
Decision made, we could just about see the ridge that we could have aimed for but it would only be wetter, windier and colder up there so we took the route back down to Grasmere. We did manage to find a suitable bench (of the leg swinging type) and a break in the weather for our lunch but the rain was back with a vengeance by the time coffee was poured. Passed several people sheltering in ferns and under trees as we made our way back to the village.
As we were eating lunch we were passed by a small group wearing t-shirts, jeans and carrying golf umbrellas – can’t quite imagine where they thought they were going when they set out.
I also had to pick a small leech, presumably seeking a meal, off my trousers and the forest had a good number of flying ants to contend with.
Back to the cottage where we started the drying off process and thought about a quick trip into Grasmere (walking) but more heavy rain deterred us.
The forecast for tomorrow is more of the same with the winds increasing and a storm for Monday. Looks like low level walking for at least a couple of days. Perhaps some shopping….. and lunches out??
Sunday / Monday 11 & 12 September
Sunday dawned wet and windy so a decision was made to wait out the morning, have a long read and a drawn out breakfast and see how the weather was. Answer – still wet and windy. A quick trip to Ambleside where Gary found and bought his new coat (all research done before we travelled) No let up in the weather so a short walk from the door was decided on and we headed up through the village towards the Easedale Road. Two options – Easedale Tarn or the “Lion and the Lamb” AKA Helm Crag.
We reached the point where the two routes diverged. Neither of us could see any pleasure in climbing over 1,000 ft in driving rain so we headed down the track to Easedale. The path had deteriorated into a small river in places, especially where the new path had been laid. Undeterred we carried on and could hear the roar of Sour Milk Gill from a distance. We had now been out for just over an hour – I was soaked and Gary had given the new coat a good testing. If he had zipped up the pockets we think it would have passed!
Took a quick look at the waterfall then turned it round and headed for home.
The amount of water raging down the hill and into the river was immense; fields, paths all flooded.
We made our way back to the house where it was a marathon drying session for clothes and people. This ritual was to become a bit of a feature of this trip.
Almost as we arrived back at the house, Jacqueline called to say that they (her and Ian) were parked up in the layby at Grasmere so we issued directions and they arrived to spend a couple of nights.
We went out for a very nice meal at the Swan Inn – after making short shrift of the bottle of champagne they had brought with them for a toast to the future. We walked out between showers but got caught in more heavy rain as we reached the pub and on the way back.
Monday brought the delights of the tail end of Hurricane Katia – thanks for the storm force winds -although it did remain dry for much of the day. However only a fool would have ventured higher than 20 ft up a hill so we visited the Bowder Stone in Borrowdale, dodging the large branches blown off trees then drove over to Ullswater where we took a look at Aira Force which was indeed travelling down the hill at some force. No sun to add rainbows but the amount of water, spray and the noise was stunning. Managed a couple of photos including one of Ian and Jacqueline at the top bridge.
After a nice afternoon tea at the café it was home for dinner and a cosy night in. A large branch had fallen and blocked the A595 close to Ambleside but the lone policeman was directing traffic around it just fine.
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| Aira Force |
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| Bowder Stone in windy conditions |
Tuesday 13th
Although not as windy, the forecast was for winds gusting to 50mph so low level walking once again. Ian and Jacqueline headed for home and we headed for the coffin route to Rydal. This is a relatively low level route from Grasmere to Rydal, We then picked up the Loughrigg terrace path back to Grasmere. There were many people out walking this route and others around the two lakes. More umbrellas in evidence – several blown inside out. We visited the cave at Rydal which was completely flooded although the stepping stones were just about useable. Headed on back to Grasmere dodging the showers as we went. A very nice circular walk but not too challenging.
Having managed to download the mountain weather forecast on my mobile, we decided to go for the Crinkle Crags circuit tomorrow as the showers would be brief and there could even be some sunshine.
Wednesday 14 September
After hearing the heavy rain in the night we looked out of the window in trepidation this morning but the clouds were clearing and the wind had dropped. So it was up and off to the Langdale valley. The Crinkle Crags is a challenging round with very steep ascent and descents and a high point of over 2,700 ft. We have, in the past, badly misjudged the route across the tops and ended up in the wrong valley leaving us to re-ascend to the top to go back down again. Only if the weather looks good then and the clouds are high giving us good visibility. Famous last words.
On arrival at the Old Dungeon Hotel car park we decided to wait for the heavy shower to pass before setting out. Gave helpful directions to a couple of Americans walking the Cumbria Way and looking for the path to Stake Pass. The start of this walk is along an interminable farm road before reaching the valley floor and the start of the uphill bit. Crossed the river on a footbridge – I have only ever seen this river as a trickle with easy route across over boulders scattered in the river bed. Not today – it was like a Himalayan river with snow melt, rushing down to flood the valley and fields. So we started the uphill heave which was not as bad as I remembered it. Perhaps all of those hills around Sidmouth were paying dividends? Rain blew across the valley but we were in brilliant sunshine – result? A vivid rainbow then a second fainter rainbow. A brief photo opportunity then.
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| Sunshine and showers and rainbows |
Just as we crested the ridge the rain returned with a vengeance but we were already committed so carried on.
The outlet from the tarn did have stepping stones, about 12” under water plus the water was rushing down the hill. Back downstream where we bravely jumped across from bank to bank. A little soggy under foot but not too bad.
The second part of the climb; not too steep but relentlessly upwards all the same. By this time we were leap frogging with three other groups of walkers. Decided to stop while it was relatively dry and eat lunch number one. Enjoyed in the dry with a view – one of the last we would have!
Carried on upwards until we reached the first Crinkle – a scramble required to make the top then over and down into a gully from where we could see the obstacle known as the “bad step” This is a huge rock face that must be climbed to reach the second top. It had now started to rain again and the wind was howling around the rocks. Luckily we happened to know how to find the bypass path which although steep does not threaten to send you back to the valley very quickly. Off we went and reached the second top.
Hatches were being battened at this point as the rain turned into a downpour – too late for the waterproof trousers so we relied on our lightweight trousers to dry out quickly when the sun returned. Such optimism, no sight of the sun and no let up in the rain until we were back on the farm road at the bottom of the hill.
The last three tops (there are five Crinkles) passed in a blur of rock, cloud cover, water, boggy bits, steep drops and a couple of slips (me). Eventually we reached the three tarns and turned right to head back down. Amazingly, we met several people heading UP the hill in these conditions.
By now we had wet legs (both) wet feet (me) and water was wicking up my sleeves. Decided we could wait until we reached the car for food and drink, thankful for number one lunch giving us the energy boost needed.
So eventually back to the car, six hours after we had left it. Our leap frogging friends also made it back around the same time as us. Coffee and food in the car in clean dry clothes that were waiting for us.
Feet tired this evening and a few muscle grumbles but tomorrow is forecast to be the best day of the week so we are heading for Hellvelyn from Thirlmere. There might even be some photos but I’ll wait to see it with my own eyes rather than believe the forecast.
Thursday 15 September
Raining again as we turned in for the night but this morning it was another world – blue skies, a slight breath of wind and brilliant sunshine – and a little cool.
Early breakfast and we were packed and off. Drove to the layby where you DON’T have to pay £6.50 to park for the day, found a space – there were plenty to choose from that early – and set off. We had decided to add some miles by heading east before going up. We know that this side of Helvellyn was very very steep so were mentally prepared for the challenge to come. Unfortunately the path we had seen on the map and plotted on the GPS, despite being a large line on the map didn’t exist in reality so we walked rather further than planned and headed up and up and up Sticks Pass.
This eventually took us up to the meeting point of many paths on the broad ridge approaching the Helvellyn range. Helvellyn could be seen in the distance looking high and brooding. There was a magnificent view of Striding Edge complete with ant like figures walking the ridge.
After climbing Helvellyn Little Man (a misnomer as this was far steeper than anything else so far) we continued along the relatively flat edge of Helvellyn itself and to the trig point. Many other people had decided to climb the mountain today so it was a bit like a convention on the summit.
We had lunch with our feet dangling over the steep drop to Red Tarn, enjoyed the sun and then took the direct route back to the car. The knees were feeling it by the time we hit the bottom of the path.
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| Looking back down the path with Skiddaw in the background |
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| Striding Edge in the distance with Swirral Edge closer to the camera. Both quite challenging and both with queues of people today. |
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| Swirral Edge from our summit lunch spot. The coloured dots are people climbing up. |
All in all, a glorious end to our week in the Lakes.
Oh and when we read the meters we owed a grand total of £12.66 for the week. Not bad for all of that drying out. £50 on the rental would have had it covered easily.
Oh and when we read the meters we owed a grand total of £12.66 for the week. Not bad for all of that drying out. £50 on the rental would have had it covered easily.
Packed and ready for an early start tomorrow as we head north to find somewhere to live.
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